OWNER ArauzMotoring

[gsxr]

There are 4 total subframe-to-body mounts. The rears are sold individually, the fronts are sold as a kit with two + hardware.

The tricky part is the original stuff is all NLA. The rears are Sportline/036-specifc, and you can source reproductions that are allegedly very good quality. The "correct" fronts were available earlier this year as old-stock Febi-branded, with OEM Boge in the box. But it will be a gamble when ordering, you could get newer Febi stock that may not be OEM Boge. There's a thread where @Jlaa posted all the details on these.

The front diff mount kit is also NLA, but there are mounts from other chassis which will work. The rear diff mounts are available, but require precision when replacing, as they must be pulled into the exact location as the originals (MB specified a $$$ special tool to measure the position, of course it's NLA now.)

 

[Jlaa]

There are 4 total subframe-to-body mounts. The rears are sold individually, the fronts are sold as a kit with two + hardware.

The tricky part is the original stuff is all NLA. The rears are Sportline/036-specifc, and you can source reproductions that are allegedly very good quality. The "correct" fronts were available earlier this year as old-stock Febi-branded, with OEM Boge in the box. But it will be a gamble when ordering, you could get newer Febi stock that may not be OEM Boge. There's a thread where @Jlaa posted all the details on these.

The front diff mount kit is also NLA, but there are mounts from other chassis which will work. The rear diff mounts are available, but require precision when replacing, as they must be pulled into the exact location as the originals (MB specified a $$$ special tool to measure the position, of course it's NLA now.)

:wormhole

@ArauzMotoring the search works great.
Here are two of the results you can start reading.

Rear suspension arms - bolted connections or standardization screw? | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Looking to replace all the rear arms etc on my E500, I am looking at EPC and selecting the correct parts is not quite clear (to me). Assuming these parts are not NLA, does anyone know which repair kits (and therefore arms e.g. thrust arms) are correct for a facelift 1994 E500? I have an option...

www.500eboard.co

Subframe Rear Bushings | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Hi All: I'm in the process of replacing all of the worn out suspension bushings and mounts for my 1992 500E. I have been advised that the subframe rear bushing P/N 124 351 02 42 is NLA. I'd lie to know if P/N 129 351 14 42 is an acceptable replacement. The part looks like it will fit but might...

www.500eboard.co

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Long time no update!

Timing chain and timing has been set!
Front cover has been cleaned like a mofo and new seals are in.
Some hardware was missing but the shop was able to see the manual and order appropriate bolts for me and get the lower oil pan off, to mount the front cover up nicely again.

I also ordered a new factory oil pump cause why not

Now we have the engine back on the engine stand correctly and they started dressing it with the water pump, and oem engine mounts I had purchased..

 

[nocfn]

Pics are great. Hopefully the URO box is for only trash as it relates to your vessel. Also, I did not read your entire post but since the engine is out, replace the hoses for the entire PS system. So much simpler to do that frame rail return hose in 8 minutes than hours with certain failure/give-up with engine in the car.

 

[gerryvz]

Yes, any shop that would have any kind of box or packaging with URO parts on it would make me exceedingly nervous. I would very very strongly tell the shop owner that said URO packaging should not be within 10 yards of your car or any parts of your car.

 

[a777fan]

Thanks for sharing Arauz! That con-rod hand script imprint is super cool. I was a
Little surprised to see the blue-ing on your crank tho. What was the reason for the engine being out?

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Thanks gentlemen!

The only uro item on my car thus far are the oil squirters on the head. All the inferior parts you guys warned me of were returned to fcp.

I called the shop and asked them to take care of the power steering lines in the engine bay for me. Thanks for the heads up!

The engine came out because my original mechanic tackling the job wasn’t able to take the timing chain replacement that arrived because the best way to re attach the front cover was with the oil pan removed. So having the engine out of the car would make the most sense.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Timing was set a month ago, car was at a standstill for another month. I message them again asking for updates and they tell me timing chain had to be loosened again because a head bolt needed torquing..

Messaged again and apparently they needed to order a special tool to continue work..

At least the oil pan is back in and re sealed, new oil pump is in with new oil pump chain and guides. New water pump is in , and apparently, the thermostat I bought from MB was for the later M119, so the shop ordered a new one for me..

In other news, here’s an old video of me driving my 500E back when I first got it.

Excited to get to mash the loud pedal again, this time with the header back exhaust I have waiting to be installed!!

 

[ArauzMotoring]

The shop ordered a new timing setting tool. Had to come from Germany, according to them.

New bolts are in




Timeline is early January. Really hope they can have the job done sooner.

 

[gsxr]

That's a special tool to re-assemble the intake cam adjuster mechanism, and likely did have to come from Germany. It makes the job a lot easier, but the adjusters can be re-assembled without it...

 

[gerryvz]

Yes, I purchased one of those tools two years ago, and it did come from Germany. As the @gsxr said, it is technically possible to re-assemble the cam adjusters without the tool, but it is very difficult and best done as a two-person job. Even then it is and can be frustrating to do. There are work-arounds to get the job done, but they involve tired and bruised hands holding adjusters in place against monstrous spring pressure, while trying to re-assemble things.

The tool simplifies the job into just a couple of minutes, and is WELL WORTH the money paid for it.

The tool also will work with M104 engines (with a single cam adjuster), so it is a good investment if you have M104 and M119 engines.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Long time no update!

Somehow I ended up bringing my car to Motronix with a few missing parts, one of them being the dip stick… They sourced one for me and installed it:

I had Don Roden rebuilt my Eta and I bought a new silicon coupler for it;

Needed to have a new ac compressor swapped in as well-
Fast forward and the engine is now back in my Hammer!

 

[ArauzMotoring]

I also have been lusting over long wheel base W126, and simultaneously, the idea of a turbo diesel Benz at that..

I found this little gem on offer-up app.







It’s a 1991 350SDL
280k miles and it purrs nicely.. I really love the blue interior, also…

I’m thinking of transferring it to my business and making it available for rental for engagement or wedding shoots.

 

[gerryvz]

Isn't Don Roden's work absolutely the best -- and such a nice gentleman, as well?

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Isnt Don Rodens work absolutely the best -- and such a nice gentleman, as well?

Couldn’t have said it better myself! Thank you all for pointing me the right way! I’m so excited to get to drive this car again!

 

[ArauzMotoring]

My car was up and running! Allegedly sounded like a hot rod with the new exhaust. 60psi cold oil pressure. The shop drove it around 30 miles checking everything out… Next day they notice a small puddle of oil under the engine..

Seems like prying the front cover off the engine with it still being in the car wasn’t a good idea…

The heads are off.



The shop spoke about the situation and they didn’t want to gamble with a sealant. I approved the extra work to get the head gaskets done.
Now the heads are off to a local machine shop.



Looks like some of the exhaust valves have pitting. I also asked for the valve stem seals to be replaced. This car service is draining my wallet. I want it done right but holy crap I wasn’t prepared for this…

Looking at having the machine shop deck the head and do a valve job. Kinda wish they could regrind the cams but that’ll have to wait for another day..

 

[gsxr]

Wow! That's a big job! Where exactly was the oil leak? Will they remove the front cover (again) to re-seal properly while the heads are off?

FYI - if the power steering hose along the frame rail, hidden behind the silver heat shield, is not recent... replace that now while the heads are off. Easy access with the heads removed. It's a nightmare job with the heads installed / engine installed. Might as well do the S-hose at the same time if not recent. Cheap insurance.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Wow! Thats a big job! Where exactly was the oil leak? Will they remove the front cover (again) to re-seal properly while the heads are off?

When I asked where the oil leak came from they stated the head gasket and posted this pic

FYI - if the power steering hose along the frame rail, hidden behind the silver heat shield, is not recent... replace that now while the heads are off. Easy access with the heads removed. Its a nightmare job with the heads installed / engine installed. Might as well do the S-hose at the same time if not recent. Cheap insurance.

I did ask them previously to swap the hard to reach power steering lines. Will update if they did so or not, thanks for the reminder! I really hope to enjoy this car for a long time once it’s driving again!

 

[OttoB]

The same shop briefly touched my car and they left it worse than how I took the car to them, surprisingly. Plus, the bill was sky high, so I cannot recommend them and can only imagine the tab you have with them exceeding the price of a used car (and counting)…

 

[ArauzMotoring]

I have brought up the fact that from the onset I requested the car be done right.

To their defense, I brought in a basket case of a car. However, we did briefly speak about the head gasket having been compromised by the former shop that touched my 500E, and the owner of the shop then asked my end game with this car, to which I stated it being my forever car.

A new shop manager has been brought in, and the cost of my service has more than quadrupled from the original estimate, yet, the work was getting done at a faster pace.

I called and explained my side of the expectations, and consequential disappointment from having the car being done to then find out about the oil leak, coming from of course, the head gasket.

In return I was reassured they’d work with me in regards to the budget for the final head job work being done.

I’m not sure if the front covers will come off again, they did show me earlier that having the front covers pried off the engine created denting but they did smooth out whatever they could.

To date I’ve paid $14,xxx for the work till they got the car running again and that’s not counting parts and previous work I paid my buddy to take the car apart and swap front shocks, springs, front and rear brake pads and rotors.

I was told to avoid getting such a high mileage Benzo and now I see why

 

[TimL]

I really hope it all ends up turning out exactly as you have it in mind - seems like a real labor of love and I’m sure it will be very rewarding once it’s all done!

 

[a777fan]

Sorry to hear of your struggles with the shop! Hopefully this time is the last time, and you walk away with a leak-free re-head gasketed M119 that doesn't need to be touched for 20+ years.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Heads were re done. For some reason, my valves were kind of pitted where they meat the cylinder head (on the lip, kind of) so the machine shop polished up the valves, changed the valve stem seals, decked the heads, and got them looking all nice.


They ran the car, no more oil leaks!! I’m truly stoked to get to experience this car driving spiritedly, without going into limp mode.. They told me the new exhaust makes it sound like a muscle car. Excited to hear that as well..



I have these wheels sitting in the shop and need to order tires.. I wanted to go with Michelins , but was turned off when I saw what the appropriate size tires speed rating was.. (135 mph, if I recall correctly)

I want to keep the 225/55-16 sizing since I feel the factory stance was pretty good and I wanted to fill out the fenders a little more. I’m thinking continental, Advan , or maybe even falken rt660 would be good..

I also wanted to thank all of you for chiming in and providing guidance and information for this resto-mod I’m doing with my 500E. I’ll update with pictures and videos when I get the car at the end of the week..

 

[TimL]

Wohooo!!!! That looks fantastic Erick and it is so cool to see your Odyssey coming to an end. I’m sure you will love the experience of finally being able to drive a sorted 036! Very cool

 

[Duh_Vinci]

Quite a bit of a journey, but glad it's coming together for you!

 

[gsxr]

I have these wheels sitting in the shop and need to order tires.. I wanted to go with Michelins , but was turned off when I saw what the appropriate size tires speed rating was.. (135 mph, if I recall correctly)

I want to keep the 225/55-16 sizing since I feel the factory stance was pretty good and I wanted to fill out the fenders a little more. I’m thinking continental, Advan , or maybe even falken rt660 would be good..

I don't think Michelin makes anything with a high enough speed rating in that size.

How about the Conti DWS-06? Or the Generals, which are made by Conti:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?=undefined&width=225/&ratio=55&diameter=16&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17&performance=ALL

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Wohooo!!!! That looks fantastic Erick and it is so cool to see your Odyssey coming to an end. I’m sure you will love the experience of finally being able to drive a sorted 036! Very cool

Thanks Tim, I’m not sure if my Odyssey is over just yet! I still have a bunch of parts I want to install and get this car polished up/ more personalized..

I don't think Michelin makes anything with a high enough speed rating in that size.

How about the Conti DWS-06? Or the Generals, which are made by Conti:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?=undefined&width=225/&ratio=55&diameter=16&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17&performance=ALL

Thanks! I was researching if anyone ever used the factory 8x16 wheels with spacers and a fatter tire to fit more flush on the 500E and didn’t find much info on that, but people were suggesting in other websites, that perhaps I can go with a wider tire that has a 50 series sidewall.


I do like that the general in factory size also allows for higher speeds, though..

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Picked up my Hammer today!!

Really loving the new FlieBen exhaust they installed for me. Combined with the rebuilt ETA, driving this car is a pleasure! No more mis fires either

I hope to swap out the WOT LH module soon and report on how it feels to my Butt-Dyno

It’s on the fattest spring pad up front with H&R lowering springs and new bilstein shocks and factory bump stops., and the rear is still on factory springs.. Hoping that installing the new hydro spheres will cure the bouncy ride on the rear..

 

[TerryA]

@ArauzMotoring,

Looking good Erick. I hope you get as much pleasure out of your ride as I do mine.

Take Care

 

[dionphaneuf]

I don't love my DWS06 - I'd be might tempted to go up to 17s and use the wider selection of tires available there.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

The honey moon was short lived.
I finally washed the car, vacuumed it.

I kind of noticed the starting time taking a few more clicks but didn’t think much of it till now..

I was cruising with the AC on, music not playing super loud.. I caught the dash board lights all turned on.

Driving slowly to my destination, the AC wasn’t blowing cold and the radio stopped playing music.

Eventually it stalled and I couldn’t bring down the drivers side windowzzz

and it won’t turn over now..




it has a new battery…

 

[TerryA]

You might want to take a look at the charging system. Sounds like you ran out of battery juice to me.

I hope it’s nothing more serious.

Good Luck

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Thanks! I had a friend give me a jump start- I couldn’t find the location to run the jumper cables in the engine bay and he was in a rush so we gave it start from the battery terminals. Car turned right on and I was idling a good 4 mins and then a few with the AC on and stereo and lights off.. eventually the dash board lights started coming on- turned off the AC and the lights momentarily dimmed yet came back on. Once I tried to move the car it died on me again. Thinking it could be the alternator…. Hopefully won’t be an arm and a leg to diagnose and fix…

 

[Jlaa]

Thanks! I had a friend give me a jump start- I couldn’t find the location to run the jumper cables in the engine bay and he was in a rush so we gave it start from the battery terminals. Car turned right on and I was idling a good 4 mins and then a few with the AC on and stereo and lights off.. eventually the dash board lights started coming on- turned off the AC and the lights momentarily dimmed yet came back on. Once I tried to move the car it died on me again. Thinking it could be the alternator…. Hopefully won’t be an arm and a leg to diagnose and fix…

View attachment 171589

Ugh might very well be the alternator or maybe even the voltage regulator? Regardless, if it is the alternator, do a search on this board —- there are documented higher output w140 alternators that fit without modification!

 

[f2892704]

Congrats!

 

[gsxr]

Sure sounds like a bad alternator... but also make sure the belt tensioner didn't fail.

 

[nocfn]

I might say that the alternator and or voltage regulator are not 20 minute replacement. It is a big fat hassle so I just opted to use a reman bosh unit and get the original tested with a new voltage regulator. Either way, disconnect your battery before you work on it.

 

[Joncf]

My first thought would be the voltage regulator, but a new alternator probably wouldn’t hurt at that mileage if that’s the culprit.

 

[nocfn]

the effort is really the same for replacement or regulator install. Unless I am mistaken, and I am often, the VR is difficult if not impossible on the e500e with the alternator installed.

 

[maw1124]

Sure sounds like a bad alternator... but also make sure the belt tensioner didn't fail.

+1 on the tensioner. OEM aftermarket ones are known to be inferior to OE ones, so don’t make that mistake or you’ll do the job again before next year this time.

EDIT... I've had this before and the symptoms are exactly as you state. In the beginning stages the A/C blows but not cold then the dash lights up. Luckily I was able to drive straight to the shop (less than 5 miles, small town) and get it handled immediately. We tested the OEM because the guys suspected they were inferior and I agreed to be the guinea pig. It failed within a month so they put the OE one on for no additional labor, and suspicions were confirmed.

maw

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Thanks gentlemen!

“Radiator Cooling fan fuse burned and melted splice. Installed new fuse,fans are working properly between amp specifications. Recommend drive the vehicle after replace the alternator and recheck“​

They sourced a Bosch reman alternator. Also replaced the cooling fan fuse, and replaced some lightbulbs. The Bosch unit has 2 years warranty. Hope it last a lot longer than that

I’m concerned about the fuse burning out. I wonder what caused it to burn out?

 

[gsxr]

That's the first time I've seen the 15A blade fuse on a 500E. These appear to have been used on some 92-93 400E, but it's not normally present on the 036 chassis. I'm guessing it had been added by a previous owner/mechanic?

Anyway - that fuse should only be feeding the low-speed auxiliary fans, which only run when AC refrigerant pressure exceeds 16 bar. Good question as to what cause the fuse to blow. And, this should have had nothing to do with the alternator failure, it just would have affected air conditioning performance.

Hmmm.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

I understand cars generally need airflow to cool down, even with radiator fans.. That being said, what "ambient temperature" does your guys 500e dashboard show when you're hanging out in the car with the a/c running in a parking lot?

After about 10 mins, i could swear it went from 90 degrees to 124 degrees on the dashboard temp read out.
I was detailing my interior with the car on and a/c running to keep me cool I checked the a/c fan fuse again and it looks no worse than it did this afternoon.. lol

 

[gsxr]

The ambient temp sensors as of 1988 receive a vehicle speed signal, and "freeze" the last reading at low speeds, under 20kph / ~13mph. This avoids the indicated temp climbing well past 100F when parked or when stuck in traffic. Per the FSM:

Function​

Up to 08/87, the outside temperature display is supplied direct by the temperature sensor. As of 09/87 [1988 USA model year], the outside temperature display analyzes the road speed signal from the Hall sensor. When the engine is started, the temperature measured is displayed. The memory is activated if, after starting the engine, the vehicle has been driven no faster than 20 km/h.​

​

As the temperature drops, the readout always appears immediately no matter the speed. At speeds below approx. 20 km/h the temperature last measured is stored and displayed. If the temperature rises, the stored temperature is displayed in order to avoid any incorrect measurement. This prevents an incorrect temperature being displayed when driving slowly or when the car is stopped and the temperature sensor is heated up e. g. as a result of exhaust gases from the vehicle in front or from heat radiated by the radiator.​

​

At speeds between approx. 20-60 km/h the temperature displayed changes after about 5 minutes in line with the temperature measured. The change in the readout is open from approx. 60 km/h [38mph].​

​

Note​

Only display units with 5-pin connector (with road speed signal) are stocked as replacement parts. If these display instruments are installed in vehicles manufactured up to an including model year 1987, the coupling at the connection cable should also be replaced by the coupling supplied.​

 

[ArauzMotoring]

I bought this over two years ago. A front strut tower bar from an account named Hedgehog Motorsports. My good friend Ryan installed it for me. I can honestly say I don’t feel a difference in nvh or anything. I do like how it looks shiny, though


Last night, driving home from work I was feeling paranoid about my cars interior leather making noises while driving that I never paid attention to. It turned out to be a water bottle lodged between the seat and the center console, and also the front belly pan somehow was dragging on the street.. my aforementioned friend Ryan was able to bolt up the front with an 8mm screw. The belly pan did happen to get chewed up pretty badly. Now I gotta find another to replace mine…



Oh, and I just remembered! The new to me LH WOT module with the w124 performance chip made a wonderful difference on the top end pull. I love mashing on the loud pedal now. I’m really glad I was able to get this car mostly fixed. I also just learned that Don Roden sadly, isn’t overhauling the throttle bodies anymore… I’m glad that he was able to fix mine and that my car no longer goes into limp mode after some spirited driving…

I have an extra chip for anyone looking to get the higher rev limit, and other benefits that the chip provides.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

The ambient temp sensors as of 1988 receive a vehicle speed signal, and "freeze" the last reading at low speeds, under 20kph / ~13mph. This avoids the indicated temp climbing well past 100F when parked or when stuck in traffic. Per the FSM:

Function​

Up to 08/87, the outside temperature display is supplied direct by the temperature sensor. As of 09/87 [1988 USA model year], the outside temperature display analyzes the road speed signal from the Hall sensor. When the engine is started, the temperature measured is displayed. The memory is activated if, after starting the engine, the vehicle has been driven no faster than 20 km/h.​

​

As the temperature drops, the readout always appears immediately no matter the speed. At speeds below approx. 20 km/h the temperature last measured is stored and displayed. If the temperature rises, the stored temperature is displayed in order to avoid any incorrect measurement. This prevents an incorrect temperature being displayed when driving slowly or when the car is stopped and the temperature sensor is heated up e. g. as a result of exhaust gases from the vehicle in front or from heat radiated by the radiator.​

​

At speeds between approx. 20-60 km/h the temperature displayed changes after about 5 minutes in line with the temperature measured. The change in the readout is open from approx. 60 km/h [38mph].​

​

Note​

Only display units with 5-pin connector (with road speed signal) are stocked as replacement parts. If these display instruments are installed in vehicles manufactured up to an including model year 1987, the coupling at the connection cable should also be replaced by the coupling supplied.​

I started and drove my car under 5 mph to a better lighted area of the parking lot and kept it idling with the AC on. Today whilst driving the ambient temp display was fluctuating normally..

 

[szvook]

I bought this over two years ago. A front strut tower bar from an account named Hedgehog Motorsports. My good friend Ryan installed it for me. I can honestly say I don’t feel a difference in nvh or anything. I do like how it looks shiny, though
View attachment 172232View attachment 172233

That’s an odd design. Can you get the transmission dipstick out easily?

 

[TerryA]

I also just learned that Don Roden sadly, isn’t overhauling the throttle bodies anymore…

That’s really sad news if it’s true.

Where did you hear that?

Has anybody else heard this?

 

[ArauzMotoring]

That’s an odd design. Can you get the transmission dipstick out easily?

Sure, just gotta un do one side of the STB and the bar will pivot upward and provide access.

That’s really sad news if it’s true.

Where did you hear that?

Has anybody else heard this?

well, I just read it in the eta rebuild thread. I do recall Don having to take some time and get around to taking care of my eta due to health issues.. Such a bummer. Hope he can have a full recovery!!

 

[gsxr]

The plastic splash panel (belly pan) is 036-specific, and NLA. Finding a replacement in better shape may be difficult. I'd patch/repair yours, and make sure all eight (yes, 8) screws and captive nuts are new or in excellent condition, to avoid this happening again.

BTW... you may want to look into some longer carriage bolts for the strut mounts. It looks like very few threads are holding that together!