Hey guys . I appreciate the help in fixing my previous issue a couple of months ago ..I am almost done with the restoration but I have a check engine light that keeps coming on even when I clear ( POS and neg for 15 sec ) or just using the code reader ..It idles without a miss . A bit sluggish at times from take off . In the morning the car will not idle up . I mean when crank it in the AM, the idle is only around 700 and probably comes down to 600. I was able to reset some codes on a few modules but not all . I also replaced the mass air flow sensor and I am getting same results .. I have attached the codes from the modules I tested .on the very bottom of the page where it says "Reset button " was the code I received from pushing the reset button on button next to the 38 pin diag connector . I am thinking Vegas module but I may be wrong . I replaced the megas module from my parts car and the idle shot up to around 1300 rpm ( parts car is ASR) I have since put the original back in . Plz help . See attached pin codes from my eBay code reader
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Back again . 1994 S420 non ASR . Check engine
- Thread starter henboy1
- Start date
Ok. I put the original back . Still getting same symptoms and check engine . Check engine usually comes on cold starts
I have researched and researched.I think my problem thats causing the check engine light is the brake pedal switch.The lamp for a bad bulb is also out.I know one of the reverse bulb is out but that's unrelated.The third brake lamp works and I am not sure about the other 2 sided.This is still unrelated, a brake pedal switch can trigger a check engine.
My other problem is my slow pedal response when driven for about 30 minutes.Definitely the new cap and rotor I purchased from Autozone.I am putting back the old one.I had changed it when I was diagnosing my bad coil issues.Headaches and gremlins
My other problem is my slow pedal response when driven for about 30 minutes.Definitely the new cap and rotor I purchased from Autozone.I am putting back the old one.I had changed it when I was diagnosing my bad coil issues.Headaches and gremlins
Ok, I just found out.I am constantly getting code 5, and 27 on PIN#17.I that may be triggering the check engine.Sluggish when driven for about 10-30 miles .Feels like it's running on 6 cylinders.Last time this happened it was worse than this and my problem was the passenger side coil.Maybe there is a miss , but it's not noticeable.I put back the orginal non resistor Bosche plugs, changed the EZL(used part) and put back the orginal cap and rotor.Previously, with a bad passenger.I even changed out the passenger coil for the second time .I was getting sparks from both the current and previous coil.The only thing I havnt changed is the wires.Can bad wires trigger a check engine?
No ASR.I havnt checked the harness or ETA yet.
I even changed. the mass air flow sensor
I am also getting a few codes on PIN# 7.I think thats the brake switch
No ASR.I havnt checked the harness or ETA yet.
I even changed. the mass air flow sensor
I am also getting a few codes on PIN# 7.I think thats the brake switch
Code 5, and 27 on PIN#17 is helpful. Code 5 in particular is indicating defective knock sensors. Double check the wiring and connector, but this could be causing the lack of power. Code 27 indicates a communication fault between the LH and EZL, which may also cause lack of power.
If you swap LH modules or EZL's, does either code go away?
If you swap LH modules or EZL's, does either code go away?
The code never went away with the other EZL . Which module is the LH module ? Will it work from an ASR car ?
If you tried 2 different EZL's and code 5 didn't go away, you may need to replace the knock sensors. This is NOT fun. Since you have a parts car, try comparing the ohm/resistance readings between the 3 pins on both and see if they are the same or different.
LH module is the fuel module in the CAN box, and can be swapped between ASR/non-ASR vehicles. It's marked "LH" on the label.
LH module is the fuel module in the CAN box, and can be swapped between ASR/non-ASR vehicles. It's marked "LH" on the label.
Gotcha ! I found the LH module ..pic attached . I replaced it and reset pin#17 . I was about to also reset pin #4 and nothing came up . While in there , I also replaced the Carb module . I drove around and the power seems to be back but I am not sure how long that will last . I only drove about 5 miles . I wouldn't know until I drive about 30 miles .The only code that came back was code 5 for the knock sensor on pin #17. Great idea to check the resistance on the parts car . . I know it's by the engine mount and the mount may need to come off . How can I check the knock sensor resistance on that parts car ? By the EZL connection ?
Attachments
Gotcha . You answered my question on testing the knock sensors by the EZL . Thx
Finally got a chance to drive the car for about 20 miles.The check engine is gone.There are no codes on pin #17
The only new codes I am getting is on Pin# 7 and codes 6 and 7.
As usual the knock sensor code is still there.I havnt had a chance to test the knock sensors on the parts car.
The pedal response is a slight improvement, but it could be better.
I have never changed the plug wires since I purchased this car.These are the plugs that I put in FR8DC.
The only new codes I am getting is on Pin# 7 and codes 6 and 7.
As usual the knock sensor code is still there.I havnt had a chance to test the knock sensors on the parts car.
The pedal response is a slight improvement, but it could be better.
I have never changed the plug wires since I purchased this car.These are the plugs that I put in FR8DC.
Look those up on the DTC translation PDF which I think I posted earlier. Possible communication issues between modules, although I don't know if that would cause what you're experiencing.
Plug wires won't change anything if there is no misfire. FR8DC are not optimal but also should not cause the problems you are having.
Even broken like that, it should still work ok, although adjustment range will be limited. Follow the FSM adjustment procedure, in general you want the slack reduced so there's just a hair (maybe 1mm max) of play when you tug the metal linkage end.
The metal rod you are pointing at with a screwdriver in the photos if the Bowden cable adjustment, this will change the transmission shift RPMs. Leave that alone for now.
Great info . Where is this fsm adjustment procedure ?
Link below, click adjust throttle / w/o ASR, note it's 4 pages long:
Great.Thx
The main cause was the slack in the Bowden cable / throttle cable . I didn't understand those directions on the site you sent me but I did what most did . I turned that plastic screw clockwise until the rpms went up , then ,I went counter clock wise just enough to bring that rpm needle back down . Made sure there was no slack . FINE tuning that pressure on the modulator did nothing , so I turned that plastic back to it's original position . WOT ( pedal to the medal ) always worked so I knew it had nothing to do with the lockdown switch by the pedal . After all this I greased and pb blasted all the pivoting points on the throttle cable etc.
My next task is that HVAC / climate control issue . Car is coming together with a new paint job .
. Thx
