Chassis Flex

[asultan]

It’s come to my attention that some of my doors click when going up an embarked turn or driveway i.e. torsion on the chassis. What have some folks here done to eliminate chassis flexing, not to be confused with body roll lol.

Tried looking up documentation on door locks and adjusting strikers… but that doesn’t sound right to me.

 

[Kridre]

I adjusted the lock for the door. Not the striker but there is one bolt that makes the lock "tighter", I don't think that there is anything else that will fix this issue. After adjusting this screw 1 click tighter, it was fixed.

My other 124 also have this issue but it depends on the outside temperature, summer no clicking, winter clicking.

 

[nocfn]

Only chassis flex I heard of is the broken A pillar weld in the engine bay.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

You right away reminded me of my lovely NA chassis Mazda Miata, which I experienced lots of chassis flex over bumps and what you described- driveways..

I read about a Japanese tuner having redesigned the door locator bushing and making it in Delrin bushings to replace the factor 25+ year old rubber.

Definitely brought a lot of perceived nvh down.

The W124 is pretty solid for its age. The other old car with a superbly stiff chassis is the NSX.

Here’s a video of how the door blocks made a difference on the visible shake on the door, on my Miata. Arauz Motoring on Instagram: "Slowmotion video of shutting the drivers side door. Before & After installing the #KenAuto door spacers. Look closely and you'll notice how the door doesn't shake nearly as much after."

Attached is a photo

 

[Jlaa]

You right away reminded me of my lovely NA chassis Mazda Miata, which I experienced lots of chassis flex over bumps and what you described- driveways..

I read about a Japanese tuner having redesigned the door locator bushing and making it in Delrin bushings to replace the factor 25+ year old rubber.

Definitely brought a lot of perceived nvh down.

The W124 is pretty solid for its age. The other old car with a superbly stiff chassis is the NSX.

Here’s a video of how the door blocks made a difference on the visible shake on the door, on my Miata. Arauz Motoring on Instagram: "Slowmotion video of shutting the drivers side door. Before & After installing the #KenAuto door spacers. Look closely and you'll notice how the door doesn't shake nearly as much after."

Attached is a photo


View attachment 156686

Wow this is fascinating!! How does this work? Is this thing preventing the door from shaking front/rear, or is it preventing the door from going "in" more when slamming the door shut?

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Wow this is fascinating!! How does this work? Is this thing preventing the door from shaking front/rear, or is it preventing the door from going "in" more when slamming the door shut?

Well, the door has a metal c shaped cup that sits over the black bushing. The factory piece is rubber and this door block was modeled to fit snug against the door locator / clamp / cup.

I feel as though it prevents both fore and aft movements, as when I went for a initial drive after install, I felt as though my suspension was working more than before( before, the chassis would work as suspension, per se) …

These door blocks were made so the end user has to purposely sand them down and shape to their cars tolerances.

 

[gsxr]

Chassis flex on a 124 sedan is nearly nonexistent. Jack up one corner of the car at a jack pad, 2 feet in the air. All doors will open & shut normally. Try the same with some other non-Mercedes and you'll get a lesson in chassis flex.

I'm 99.44% certain the clicking you hear is from something other than chassis flex...

 

[asultan]

Chassis flex on a 124 sedan is nearly nonexistent. Jack up one corner of the car at a jack pad, 2 feet in the air. All doors will open & shut normally. Try the same with some other non-Mercedes and you'll get a lesson in chassis flex.

I'm 99.44% certain the clicking you hear is from something other than chassis flex...

Believe it or not I actually did this experiment this morning, and yes the doors do open and shut normally. Checked my door locks as well and couldnt find any adjustment points outside of moving the striker which I don't see any reason of adjusting frankly.

It definitely is the door that makes noise though along these embankments and driveways. Dove into literature but nothing struck me immediately as the right solution.

 

[asultan]

I adjusted the lock for the door. Not the striker but there is one bolt that makes the lock "tighter", I don't think that there is anything else that will fix this issue. After adjusting this screw 1 click tighter, it was fixed.

My other 124 also have this issue but it depends on the outside temperature, summer no clicking, winter clicking.

Which bolt is this specifically? Not the phillips heads, im assuming.

 

[Kridre]

@asultan It is the big philips screw that is behind the cover in the door.

 

[geraniumtr]

asultan, My 94 E320 experienced this issue a number of years ago. Stu Ritter addresses it in his E Class Owners Bible book--page 326, last item on page. The plastic insert in the striker is the apparent cause. I replaced the strikers and the problem disappeared. Previously I had replaced 3 out of 4 door locks (PITA) which didn't solve the problem.

Part # 208 720 01 04, problem is its NLA I believe. Maybe pull some from a salvage yard.

Regards,

Peter Weissman

 

[Jlaa]

asultan, My 94 E320 experienced this issue a number of years ago. Stu Ritter addresses it in his E Class Owners Bible book--page 326, last item on page. The plastic insert in the striker is the apparent cause. I replaced the strikers and the problem disappeared. Previously I had replaced 3 out of 4 door locks (PITA) which didn't solve the problem.

Part # 208 720 01 04, problem is its NLA I believe. Maybe pull some from a salvage yard.

Regards,

Peter Weissman

Geez wtf. These were like $12 not long ago, new!

 

[asultan]

@asultan It is the big philips screw that is behind the cover in the door.

Interesting I will take a look...

 

[nocfn]

How is it the economists and weather types are wrong more than they are right, yet still keep their jobs.

 

[asultan]

asultan, My 94 E320 experienced this issue a number of years ago. Stu Ritter addresses it in his E Class Owners Bible book--page 326, last item on page. The plastic insert in the striker is the apparent cause. I replaced the strikers and the problem disappeared. Previously I had replaced 3 out of 4 door locks (PITA) which didn't solve the problem.

Part # 208 720 01 04, problem is its NLA I believe. Maybe pull some from a salvage yard.

Regards,

Peter Weissman

Great call on this, I nudged all four doors outward after likely years of door slamming and it resolved 3/4 doors, the mystery is now the passenger rear door which: A. I need a new shell for anyways (PDR guy couldnt fix significant damage on), and B post adjustment sits higher than the rest of the rear quarter/C-Pillar and still clicks... so likely needs a new striker.

 

[asultan]

I'm seeing 201-720-00-04 as available whereas 208-720-01-04 is NLA. The first part numbers description shows "all models, 200, 300, 190"

Will this work for my 1986 .030?

 

[gsxr]

I'm seeing 201-720-00-04 as available whereas 208-720-01-04 is NLA. The first part numbers description shows "all models, 200, 300, 190"

Will this work for my 1986 .030?

Uh, call a dealer before you get too excited:

Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.

Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).

partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

Also, the 201- number was apparently defective as there's an EPC footnote to NOT install the 201- part number if it needs replacement, but rather install one of the superceded numbers:

 

[asultan]

Uh, call a dealer before you get too excited:

Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.

Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).

partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

View attachment 156993

 

[oaklandw124]

I'm seeing multiple part numbers for these strikers All end with ...720-00-04 but they start with:
124
129
140
201
208

Are they all the same and will they fit our W124 cars? Both 400E/E420 and 500E/E500?

 

[gsxr]

EPC shows various supercessions, and the last 4 digits are not always the same, screenshot below. You'd have to ask a dealer (or MBCC) to check worldwide inventory.

 

[oaklandw124]

Thanks, Dave!

 

[T0Pnotch55]

Chassis flex on a 124 sedan is nearly nonexistent. Jack up one corner of the car at a jack pad, 2 feet in the air. All doors will open & shut normally. Try the same with some other non-Mercedes and you'll get a lesson in chassis flex.

I'm 99.44% certain the clicking you hear is from something other than chassis flex...

what about when adding more power to the engine, are there any weak points on the chassis that might be a good idea to reinforce?

 

[gsxr]

what about when adding more power to the engine, are there any weak points on the chassis that might be a good idea to reinforce?

Depends on the chassis you are starting with, and what the power level is.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

Depends on the chassis you are starting with, and what the power level is.

the w124 chassis, like if you do a huild with 600hp for example, are there some weak spots in the chassis that might require reinforcements?

 

[gsxr]

the w124 chassis, like if you do a huild with 600hp for example, are there some weak spots in the chassis that might require reinforcements?

If the donor chassis is 4/5/6-cylinder 124, you need the V8 subframe and 210mm differential / V8 axles. But that's it.

If the donor is a 400E/500E, no modifications are needed.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

If the donor chassis is 4/5/6-cylinder 124, you need the V8 subframe and 210mm differential / V8 axles. But that's it.

If the donor is a 400E/500E, no modifications are needed.

what about if i want to convert the front suspension to true coil over suspension, like removing the spring mounting housing and installing a coil over, will the top shock struts be able to hold the chassis weight?

 

[gsxr]

what about if i want to convert the front suspension to true coil over suspension, like removing the spring mounting housing and installing a coil over, will the top shock struts be able to hold the chassis weight?

I would not recommend true coilovers on any 124, 129, or 201 chassis. There is ZERO advantage to coilovers beyond infinite adjustability on ride height. Coilovers mostly lighten your wallet by a few grand. Waste of money, and the Mercedes strut mount IS NOT designed to support the entire weight of the chassis with no coil spring installed. The weight of the car is meant to be supported by the coil spring. The strut tower is only designed to provide support for the damping action.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

understood, i saw the guy’s at FCP euro did a 190e dtm omage and they did a true coilover conversion on the front suspension but they didn’t do any reinforcement on the strut tower

 

[gsxr]

understood, i saw the guy’s at FCP euro did a 190e dtm omage and they did a true coilover conversion on the front suspension but they didn’t do any reinforcement on the strut tower

Yep, other people have done it, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. Again, the ROI is generally lousy. High cost, and the result does not magically turn your car into an M3.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

Yep, other people have done it, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. Again, the ROI is generally lousy. High cost, and the result does not magically turn your car into an M3.

got it, lets say for the sake of the conversation if i were to do this conversion should i add some reinforcement to the strut tower?

 

[gsxr]

got it, lets say for the sake of the conversation if i were to do this conversion should i add some reinforcement to the strut tower?

That would probably be a good idea. And also do some homework to figure out what exactly the benefit is you expect from coilovers, other than to tell people your car rides on coilovers. I don't understand the fascination with them. I'd much rather have custom dampers with adjustable compression and rebound.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

That would probably be a good idea. And also do some homework to figure out what exactly the benefit is you expect from coilovers, other than to tell people your car rides on coilovers. I don't understand the fascination with them. I'd much rather have custom dampers with adjustable compression and rebound.

i am just collecting some information for myself, i suppose the true coilover conversion ideea is more if people want to do a steering rack conversion and they want to place the sterring rack in the front so in this case you would swap the steering knuckle for one that has the steering arms facing forward instead of backwards this also allows for more room for exhaust manifolds if you do a V8 swap, for me personally its interesting to know what is possible to do with this chassis