Code 15 on pin #4

[RobertK]

By reading out and releasing the code's after the ABS/ASR lights plug repare, I noticed by checking the code's on Pin #4 (LH-Module) code 15.
It seemed to be something with the kickdown switch, an open circuit or so ?
What should I test to detect this what the cause is ? What are the right steps to investigate this ?

 

[gsxr]

Are you sure about the code? Factory docs show the following:

 

[RobertK]

Are you sure about the code? Factory docs show the following:

View attachment 215345

I will look at this again.

 

[RobertK]

Sorry for the confusion, pin #4 gives no codes.

Something different: it concerns code 17 at pin #17
I noticed also during the short test drive a small hesitation during accerelating, but by releasing a bit the pedal, the car goes on with accerelation much better.

CKP sensor (L5) defect ?

What are the steps to take ?

 

[gsxr]

Sorry for the confusion, pin #4 gives no codes.

That's good news!

Something different: it concerns code 17 at pin #17

Is this an analog blink code? Or are you using HHT-Win? Code #17 always appears as a "Current" code - this is an error and should be ignored. Only look at "Stored" codes for EZL with HHT-Win.

I noticed also during the short test drive a small hesitation during accerelating, but by releasing a bit the pedal, the car goes on with accerelation much better.

CKP sensor (L5) defect ?

What are the steps to take ?

Are there codes on ANY other modules? In particular, E-GAS / pin #7?

 

[RobertK]

Is this an analog blink code? Or are you using HHT-Win? Code #17 always appears as a "Current" code - this is an error and should be ignored. Only look at "Stored" codes for EZL with HHT-Win.

I am using the analog blink code.

Are there codes on ANY other modules? In particular, E-GAS / pin #7?

No other codes on any other modules also not on the E-GAS /pin #7, but I will check everything again to be sure.

 

[gsxr]

I am using the analog blink code.

Hmmm. Clear code 17 on pin 17, drive the car and see if that code returns. Also check resistance of the CKP (crank sensor) at the EZL connector, it should be roughly 800-1000 ohms. If you keep getting the same error code, you could try replacing the sensor, but the engine will not start or run if the sensor is defective.

 

[RobertK]

I have cleared code 17 on pin 17# and it stays away. During driving the car still behaves very strange during acceralation. It stucks and sometimes not. The engine is choking a bit by giving more gas (almost kickdown). When you acceralate not very fast, it is normal. And during idling, (waiting for a red traffic light for example) gives also bad idling and sometimes not.

I think I have to investigate the well known distributor caps first.

 

[RobertK]

I am still busy with the distributor/rotor caps. Struggling with loosening a bad allen screw of the (left) rotor is the cause.

But I have an other question: On a German app-group a guy had add more vents to his distributor caps (See the attached photos he shared) to avoid the well-known idling problems during warming up etc.. Is this an advisable thing to do this before installing the new caps and new isolators ?
Are there disadvantages ?

 

[gsxr]

But I have an other question: On a German app-group a guy had add more vents to his distributor caps (See the attached photos he shared) to avoid the well-known idling problems during warming up etc.. Is this an advisable thing to do this before installing the new caps and new isolators ?

Yes! Read this thread for more details. Also verify the cam seals are not leaking. And if you have not yet replaced or re-sealed the cam advance solenoids/magnets, you'll need to do that as well. Oil leaking into the lower edge of the cap may cause some of the issues as described later in that thread.

Are there disadvantages ?

Nope. Just a little tricky to make the cuts perfectly even so they look factory.

 

[RobertK]

Thanks Dave, I will make that enhancement.

The cam advance solenoids/magnets leaking a little bit oil on the right side (cilinders 5-8). It is not from the O-ring in the middle I think. On the left side it is dry (cilinders 1-4).
Is there a thread or instruction to replace or reseal that cam advance solenoids/magnets ?

 

[emerydc8]

Thread 'HOW-TO: Repairing leaking M119 cam advance solenoids / magnets'

Sep 22, 2016

Moderator edit: To replace with new solenoids/magnets instead of repairing, order 2 each of the following items:

• 119-051-00-77 magnet/solenoid, $109 MSRP
• 111-051-00-43 new style armature, $10 MSRP
• 104-990-10-04 single-use armature bolt, $3 MSRP

============================================================================
Preamble

A common problem on many 1990's Mercedes is engine oil weeping out of the edges of the Cam Magnets - necessitating their...

• JC220
• camshaft magnet camshaft solenoid
• Replies: 58
• Forum: "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

• 
• 

 

[gsxr]

The cam advance solenoids/magnets leaking a little bit oil on the right side (cilinders 5-8). It is not from the O-ring in the middle I think. On the left side it is dry (cilinders 1-4).
Is there a thread or instruction to replace or reseal that cam advance solenoids/magnets ?

Your photo shows the exhaust cam sprocket seals. If there's any sign of leakage, replace those seals on both sides.

The intake cam solenoids are above and inboard... see the link @emerydc8 posted above.

 

[RobertK]

Unfortunately I cannot find the beneath post on this site.

Failed to connect​

The destination www.500eboard.com is not reachable.​

Connection timed out

The removal / refitting of the magnets has been discussed here before - see Gerry's DIY here. (Post #49)

 

[gsxr]

Unfortunately I cannot find the beneath post on this site.

Failed to connect​

The destination www.500eboard.com is not reachable.​

Connection timed out

Looks like a temporary error... try again. The link is working for me at the moment.

 

[RobertK]

It works again
Two questions: what is the EPC nr. of the special orange MB anaerobic sealant ? I want to buy some of this sealant.

Other question:
The way Gerry described in his thread about draining the fluid in the power steering reservoir and removing the power steering reservoir afterwards is the only way to make space for removing the magnet cam solenoid on the right side ? Or can I loosen some bolts and pull the reservoir somewhat and by doing this getting enough space ?

 

[dreaming.haze]

@RobertK - The sealant I think is now NLA from mercedes is my memory of it. `001 989 89 20 10` p/n. You can use Loctite 574 instead (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C3CGMS).

Your notes on removal of the reservoir is correct. It is neigh impossible to remove if the bolts are torqued down proper + even removing the magnet can need some force if prior removers used RTV to reseal (have had this once).

 

[RobertK]

@RobertK - The sealant I think is now NLA from mercedes is my memory of it. `001 989 89 20 10` p/n. You can use Loctite 574 instead (Loctite 574 Flange Sealant - 50 ml: Collated Screws: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific).

I see that Elring is also sell this sort of orange sealant:

https://www.autodoc.nl/elring/15483237

Thanks, the only way is to drain and remove the reservoir.