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OWNER DerFuror
- Thread starter DerFuror
- Start date
That's one of the cars I was talking about. I like it, thanks Drew.
Surprisingly, it didn’t…and that’s why I didn’t procrastinate much over buying it. Complete grille delivered from Germany for just under $140. Company named quantiTec located near Berlin. Shipping cost almost as much as the item itself. Delivery was slow; a couple weeks. Positive feedback from all other buyers of this particular grille helped in making my purchase decision.
The materials quality is quite good for the price. Chrome plated brass shell. I measured with calipers & the shell material is same thickness as original grille. The model I bought has Black (similar to 040 color) ABS plastic insert with chromed face strips. The black blends in very nicely with my 040 car color to really set off the chrome accents. All the mounting holes line up. Fit to hood is very good, but not exact. I filed the Mercedes Star hole slightly with a circular file to more easily insert the Star assembly (FSM Procedure 88-405). The various assembly attachment parts holding the grille together are similar in design to the original grille parts, but the original hardware is naturally better.
The only real drawback is how a vertical rib on the insert slightly conflicts with the hood pull’s resting position. In reality, the rib should be omitted as is with the original insert. On the original insert, the hood pull’s face lines up exactly within the insert’s vertical & horizontal ribbing; & in its resting position, the hood pull fills this omitted void and provides the illusion that it is an integral part of the overall ribbing. Not so with this Avantgarde model.
I haven’t determined whether or not to modify the Avantgarde insert because of this conflict. I’m pondering several options from removing part of the conflicting rib to doing nothing at all. I’m in no hurry to decide.
Regarding the original grille…I will leave it original. It will always stay with the car, but not always on the car.
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Linky?
Fix: Buy the facelift-style pull tab, which is shaped differently. P/N 124-887-05-27.
Thanks!
Pre-facelift:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261078173026
Post-facelift:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250926114559
Link to vendor showing W124 grille options (inserts also available separately):
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odk...&_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=W124+grille&_sacat=0
Pre-facelift:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261078173026
Post-facelift:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250926114559
Link to vendor showing W124 grille options (inserts also available separately):
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odk...&_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=W124+grille&_sacat=0
yes, the stock grill in black does look nice
When I clicked this thread, I hoped for one of those DerFuror stories, somehow. How about it?
Jelmer, How could I possibly ignore your request? Knowing that you are special, & seeing that you currently have Porsche on the mind, maybe this resurrection from the archives will provide temporary consolation...or at least temporarily detain you from your next avatar release.
Well, that was pleasant to read. Feel free to post more.
Accidentally, I also had a run-in with a Porsche. It was creeping slowly through a corner, heading towards the freeway. In the corner, I started getting closer and closer, trying to annoy him and make him want to "show me who's boss". I switched back to 2nd (at about 60km/h), and as soon as he floored it, so did I. Was able to keep up (barely, though, I admit) until we merged onto the freeway. No idea what kind of machine it was, and it would smoke me in a drag race or outrun me at top-speed. But the feeling that a 20 year old car which just came from the supermarket can keep up with a brand new Porsche is great. I always chuckle when I imagine their thoughts ;-)
Oh: you were too late with the avatar-change, sorry ;-)
Accidentally, I also had a run-in with a Porsche. It was creeping slowly through a corner, heading towards the freeway. In the corner, I started getting closer and closer, trying to annoy him and make him want to "show me who's boss". I switched back to 2nd (at about 60km/h), and as soon as he floored it, so did I. Was able to keep up (barely, though, I admit) until we merged onto the freeway. No idea what kind of machine it was, and it would smoke me in a drag race or outrun me at top-speed. But the feeling that a 20 year old car which just came from the supermarket can keep up with a brand new Porsche is great. I always chuckle when I imagine their thoughts ;-)
Oh: you were too late with the avatar-change, sorry ;-)
We need a Wiki that documents every avatar Jelmer has ever used, with the story behind it, etc...
Ha Ha...Yes, this is really among the Top 3 with the 036 - challenging modern plastic cars! Me like alot!
Rear Engine Mount at Transmission
Looking back into my 500E’s service records, I could verify that the front engine mounts were replaced by the PO just prior to my ownership, but no documentation definitively verified that the rear mount (p/n 140 240 03 18) had been replaced.
Since I was already doing several jobs around the tranny area of which removing the rear engine carrier was a prerequisite operation, I decided to remove, clean & inspect the rear mount assembly & replace the rubber mount if needed.
The relatively easy job (FSM 22-2120 Removing & Installing Rear Engine Mount) requires the removal of several 13mm & 17mm hex head bolts which fasten the rubber mount, its bracket and the rear engine support to the chassis. The 17mm (M10) bolts, including the long centerbolt that connects the rubber mount to its mounting bracket, are torqued to 40Nm (29.5 ft/lb). The 13mm (M8) bolts are torqued to 25Nm (18.5 ft/lb).
Comparing the old mount to the new mount, it was evident that some deterioration was in progress; the old mount’s centerbolt axis location had deflected by almost 8mm (0.313”) from the combined effects of time, gravity & its harsh working environment.
The 500E didn’t have any prior noticeable driveline vibration issues. This new part installation should help keep it that way. Also, the car now has a complete & documented engine mount baseline.
Looking back into my 500E’s service records, I could verify that the front engine mounts were replaced by the PO just prior to my ownership, but no documentation definitively verified that the rear mount (p/n 140 240 03 18) had been replaced.
Since I was already doing several jobs around the tranny area of which removing the rear engine carrier was a prerequisite operation, I decided to remove, clean & inspect the rear mount assembly & replace the rubber mount if needed.
The relatively easy job (FSM 22-2120 Removing & Installing Rear Engine Mount) requires the removal of several 13mm & 17mm hex head bolts which fasten the rubber mount, its bracket and the rear engine support to the chassis. The 17mm (M10) bolts, including the long centerbolt that connects the rubber mount to its mounting bracket, are torqued to 40Nm (29.5 ft/lb). The 13mm (M8) bolts are torqued to 25Nm (18.5 ft/lb).
Comparing the old mount to the new mount, it was evident that some deterioration was in progress; the old mount’s centerbolt axis location had deflected by almost 8mm (0.313”) from the combined effects of time, gravity & its harsh working environment.
The 500E didn’t have any prior noticeable driveline vibration issues. This new part installation should help keep it that way. Also, the car now has a complete & documented engine mount baseline.
Great car Der Furor! Love that color!
That chick-magnet won´t work for me. I gave up on it since i can´t close the hood with it. And the chicks loves it clean anyway
That chick-magnet won´t work for me. I gave up on it since i can´t close the hood with it. And the chicks loves it clean anyway
Shifter Linkrod Assembly
With all obstructions already out of the way, I took the opportunity to remove, clean & inspect the condition of the shifter linkrod assembly.
Although I had replacement bushings (p/n 115 992 03 10 ) ready to go in, the existing bushings were still quite good with no fractures or sloppy movement. So, with lots of service life remaining and no current need for replacement, I now have a set of spares on hand for when the time does come. The retaining clips are still in good shape, too.
I assembled components for a homemade bushing press, then placed the assembly & spare bushings in a labeled zip lock storage bag for future use.
With all obstructions already out of the way, I took the opportunity to remove, clean & inspect the condition of the shifter linkrod assembly.
Although I had replacement bushings (p/n 115 992 03 10 ) ready to go in, the existing bushings were still quite good with no fractures or sloppy movement. So, with lots of service life remaining and no current need for replacement, I now have a set of spares on hand for when the time does come. The retaining clips are still in good shape, too.
I assembled components for a homemade bushing press, then placed the assembly & spare bushings in a labeled zip lock storage bag for future use.
Selector Shaft Seal Replacement
I have pretty much finished up the job of replacing my transmission gear selector shaft seal (which I determined was the source of a substantial leak during off-season storage). I lowered, but did not remove the transmission to perform this procedure.
I’ve partially re-filled the tranny & ran thru the gears several times to circulate the fluid. Checking for leaks. So far, the transmission housing is dry but outside the garage is not. Rainfall unfortunately prevents a validating test-drive.
Looking forward to this final verification. I can’t wait to get back on the road.
Prior to this late afternoon rainfall, the month of June’s weather has been ideal for driving.
I have pretty much finished up the job of replacing my transmission gear selector shaft seal (which I determined was the source of a substantial leak during off-season storage). I lowered, but did not remove the transmission to perform this procedure.I’ve partially re-filled the tranny & ran thru the gears several times to circulate the fluid. Checking for leaks. So far, the transmission housing is dry but outside the garage is not. Rainfall unfortunately prevents a validating test-drive.
Looking forward to this final verification. I can’t wait to get back on the road.
Prior to this late afternoon rainfall, the month of June’s weather has been ideal for driving.
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Re: First Gear Start valve body installation
I'm getting ready to do one of these myself. I'll be curious to hear your assessment.
I'm getting ready to do one of these myself. I'll be curious to hear your assessment.
Re: First Gear Start valve body installation
The weather was a superb 73F Sunday. Took the 500E out for a legitimate longer distance testdrive around Lake vineyard country. I’ve been smiling ever since. The car ran flawlessly. Engine temp stayed consistently just a smidge over 90C. Oil pressure fine. Everytime I passed a bank, my dash ambient temperature display matched their displayed temperature. Acceleration was delivered strongly & smoothly when required. I imagined I was flying in a four wheeled version of the SR-71 Blackbird.
The car gets inspected tomorrow morning, so I didn’t get too carried away speeding about drawing attention. I mostly drove a leisurely pace over varying terrain which gave the valve body & gearbox a nice workout.
Regarding the valve body: I followed the basic rule of thumb when refilling the tranny. I filled it halfway, then with engine running & foot on brake, I shifted thru all the gears for about 5 seconds each, allowing fluid to get to where it needs to be. I repeated this procedure several times. I then topped off the fluid & repeated the process.
Over the past few days I would drive the car incrementally longer distances. I drove around the neighborhood first, so I would be close to home incase of any failure or leaking from the seal replacement.
Leaving the garage, I was happy the car started off in first gear. But on several occasions it did not (or did not seem to) when pulling away from a red light or stop sign; it seemed confused which gear to start in. I told myself this must hopefully be a “breaking-in” process; the tranny fluid was cold & still working its way thru the system, and the tranny was probably trying to figure out its new situation after sitting idle since last season. I tried to be as clean as possible while working on the tranny (which was opened up for quite some time), but it’s possible this behavior was caused by some slight airborne contamination that had to work its way thru.
The next testdrive included a slightly longer range of both town & highway at full operating temperatures. I was paying attention to shifting behavior & duration. It was noticeably better & much like what szvook has previously described. However, I wasn’t declaring any victories yet.
After today I am thoroughly convinced it is operating properly. It smoothly does what it is supposed to do at the rpm shiftpoints. Give it the gas & the car really scoots from a dead stop. When using easy foot pressure, first gear is there, but almost unnoticeable.
This car was already such a pleasure to drive. Adding the First Gear Start valve body adds another dimension of pleasure to this driving experience.
The weather was a superb 73F Sunday. Took the 500E out for a legitimate longer distance testdrive around Lake vineyard country. I’ve been smiling ever since. The car ran flawlessly. Engine temp stayed consistently just a smidge over 90C. Oil pressure fine. Everytime I passed a bank, my dash ambient temperature display matched their displayed temperature. Acceleration was delivered strongly & smoothly when required. I imagined I was flying in a four wheeled version of the SR-71 Blackbird.
The car gets inspected tomorrow morning, so I didn’t get too carried away speeding about drawing attention. I mostly drove a leisurely pace over varying terrain which gave the valve body & gearbox a nice workout.
Regarding the valve body: I followed the basic rule of thumb when refilling the tranny. I filled it halfway, then with engine running & foot on brake, I shifted thru all the gears for about 5 seconds each, allowing fluid to get to where it needs to be. I repeated this procedure several times. I then topped off the fluid & repeated the process.
Over the past few days I would drive the car incrementally longer distances. I drove around the neighborhood first, so I would be close to home incase of any failure or leaking from the seal replacement.
Leaving the garage, I was happy the car started off in first gear. But on several occasions it did not (or did not seem to) when pulling away from a red light or stop sign; it seemed confused which gear to start in. I told myself this must hopefully be a “breaking-in” process; the tranny fluid was cold & still working its way thru the system, and the tranny was probably trying to figure out its new situation after sitting idle since last season. I tried to be as clean as possible while working on the tranny (which was opened up for quite some time), but it’s possible this behavior was caused by some slight airborne contamination that had to work its way thru.
The next testdrive included a slightly longer range of both town & highway at full operating temperatures. I was paying attention to shifting behavior & duration. It was noticeably better & much like what szvook has previously described. However, I wasn’t declaring any victories yet.
After today I am thoroughly convinced it is operating properly. It smoothly does what it is supposed to do at the rpm shiftpoints. Give it the gas & the car really scoots from a dead stop. When using easy foot pressure, first gear is there, but almost unnoticeable.
This car was already such a pleasure to drive. Adding the First Gear Start valve body adds another dimension of pleasure to this driving experience.
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Re: First Gear Start valve body installation
The car passed inspection today, so driving it is now 100% legitimate. Afterwards I then took a spirited drive on some nice backroads with $20 of ethanol-free gasoline. All is good.
Upon returning home I rotated / checked balance of tires. I also took a good look at my inspector's noted discoveries.
The front brake pads will be replaced at the end of this season with OEMs. I will also go with sst brake hose replacement during the off season. Since everything will be disconnected, I will clean & paint the calipers silver at that time.
An impatient '92 LH module will be introduced to the CAN soon.
Regarding WOT enrichment: Using a recent part number search of the epc as the definitive info source, LH module 014 545 18 32 is the current replacement for 014 545 17 32 regarding the pre '93 124.036.
The car passed inspection today, so driving it is now 100% legitimate. Afterwards I then took a spirited drive on some nice backroads with $20 of ethanol-free gasoline. All is good.
Upon returning home I rotated / checked balance of tires. I also took a good look at my inspector's noted discoveries.
The front brake pads will be replaced at the end of this season with OEMs. I will also go with sst brake hose replacement during the off season. Since everything will be disconnected, I will clean & paint the calipers silver at that time.
An impatient '92 LH module will be introduced to the CAN soon.
Regarding WOT enrichment: Using a recent part number search of the epc as the definitive info source, LH module 014 545 18 32 is the current replacement for 014 545 17 32 regarding the pre '93 124.036.
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Re: First Gear Start valve body installation
2 of the best mods you can do to these cars ! Glad you are enjoying the FGS, adding the '92 LH will just make it even better !
.
An impatient '92 LH module will be introduced to the CAN soon.
2 of the best mods you can do to these cars ! Glad you are enjoying the FGS, adding the '92 LH will just make it even better !
.
Valve body swap is painlessly quick & easy. Held in place with about 15 socket head screws (3 being shorter than the others). Transmission service manual (AT 27.51) page 4.8/1 covers the procedure.
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Consider doing during a regularly scheduled fluid & filter change, otherwise you're prematurely going thru more fluid, pan plug crush washer & possibly another pan gasket.
Looks to me like DerFuror has hit all the high points. Big Plus 1 on doing the filter while you're in there. Note that your parts supplier may have to order in the filter. Not many models use the "slide valve" filter that is in the E500E.
I have a couple new filters, pan plugs, crush washers and 10 liters of synthetic ATF ready. I was planning to do the fluid change anyway just because I don't know when it was done.
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...but the aphrodisiacal aroma of the leather interior augmented by an evening demonstration of the gray resettable door switch sets the hook!
True poon-appeal.
An Ethanol-free gas pump located in the town where my 500E is stabled is the second best thing I could hope for regarding this car. Here's a few pics showing current gas prices.
...the best thing would be opening my eyes to Klink's avatar-girl working over my hood ornament to the beat of Mott the Hoople's "At the Crossroads".
...the best thing would be opening my eyes to Klink's avatar-girl working over my hood ornament to the beat of Mott the Hoople's "At the Crossroads".
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And 93 octane too? Whoa.
The last 93 octane disappeared from the Boise area a few years ago. All we can get now is 91-octane ethanol. One station has non-ethanol but it's off-brand, not top-tier. Oddly, we can still get top-tier (Phillps 66) in 87 octane only at one station. I've given up and just use whatever Shell/Chevron station is handy.
The last 93 octane disappeared from the Boise area a few years ago. All we can get now is 91-octane ethanol. One station has non-ethanol but it's off-brand, not top-tier. Oddly, we can still get top-tier (Phillps 66) in 87 octane only at one station. I've given up and just use whatever Shell/Chevron station is handy.
Re: The Best of Both Worlds
I like to say I enjoy the best of both worlds...the old & new(er) Benzus.
I returned to the stable today to clean up things after being away for an extended time. Treated Klaus to a wash & new car cover. A couple squirts of gas down the carbs & he fired right up, ready for action...
...but can't understand why I won't take him out for a stretch.
I tried to compensate by assuring him how good he looks. My charade worked...but for how long?
I like to say I enjoy the best of both worlds...the old & new(er) Benzus.
I returned to the stable today to clean up things after being away for an extended time. Treated Klaus to a wash & new car cover. A couple squirts of gas down the carbs & he fired right up, ready for action...
...but can't understand why I won't take him out for a stretch.
I tried to compensate by assuring him how good he looks. My charade worked...but for how long?
Re: City Lights
Sorry to take so long. I usually have a camera with me for photo-ops, but the car has been running so flawlessly that I forget about everything else except driving it!
This pic isn't the best (I need to change some camera settings to better capture the lighting effect). The City lights are very visible to the naked eye, but not so much when captured in digital image.
I'll try for some better representative images later.
PS: I let my Sister drive the car today after taking her for a little blast down our local autobahn (it's kind of nice to be a passenger once in a while).
She was very happy to drive, but refused all of my requests for a WOT-stomping (says her first 500E encounter is still well-etched upon her memory & she 's perfectly content to drive this car like a normal person).
After driving the 500E, she said it sucked to have to now drive hers (which ain't a bad car) back home!
Sorry to take so long. I usually have a camera with me for photo-ops, but the car has been running so flawlessly that I forget about everything else except driving it!
This pic isn't the best (I need to change some camera settings to better capture the lighting effect). The City lights are very visible to the naked eye, but not so much when captured in digital image.
I'll try for some better representative images later.
PS: I let my Sister drive the car today after taking her for a little blast down our local autobahn (it's kind of nice to be a passenger once in a while).
She was very happy to drive, but refused all of my requests for a WOT-stomping (says her first 500E encounter is still well-etched upon her memory & she 's perfectly content to drive this car like a normal person).
After driving the 500E, she said it sucked to have to now drive hers (which ain't a bad car) back home!
Thanks for the photo of the city lights, and also the link to your WGI adventure. What a great track!
This photo is from turn 2 at ~95mph during a SCCA race...
This photo is from turn 2 at ~95mph during a SCCA race...
Yeah, Good ol' Turn 2, the Slingshot into the back-straight & chicanes. Good times on it driving & on the periphery of that turn spectating.
PS: While rubber-necking as my sister drove around today, I saw the exact body of your race car under a local roadside lean-to. Seemed in good shape. Primer-gray & looking for a powertrain to rest upon. Drove past it again this evening. Still there.
Interested in any pics?
PS: While rubber-necking as my sister drove around today, I saw the exact body of your race car under a local roadside lean-to. Seemed in good shape. Primer-gray & looking for a powertrain to rest upon. Drove past it again this evening. Still there.
Interested in any pics?
Re: City Lights
Ok. Later is now. Here they are.
To reiterate: These City lights are 5W bulbs wired into foglight circuit which allows parking lights to still operate as standalones.
5W is better than 65W. No reason to burn the lowbeams during daylight hours. City lights run as daytime running lights; reduces/conserves the hours use of the halogen headlights.
Ok. Later is now. Here they are.
To reiterate: These City lights are 5W bulbs wired into foglight circuit which allows parking lights to still operate as standalones.
5W is better than 65W. No reason to burn the lowbeams during daylight hours. City lights run as daytime running lights; reduces/conserves the hours use of the halogen headlights.
Attachments
Re: Steering Wheel
...for the steering wheel wh*res out there. This came with the car when I bought it. Don't know when or where it came about, but I likes it.
Funny story: The burl will make an audible clicking sound as it expands/contracts due to exposure to sunlight & temperature change. I remember reading the PO's documentation when I bought the car...the PO paid buku dollars for a tech to figure this & a speedometer gear noise out. The Tech never did.
...for the steering wheel wh*res out there. This came with the car when I bought it. Don't know when or where it came about, but I likes it.
Funny story: The burl will make an audible clicking sound as it expands/contracts due to exposure to sunlight & temperature change. I remember reading the PO's documentation when I bought the car...the PO paid buku dollars for a tech to figure this & a speedometer gear noise out. The Tech never did.
Re: Like a Drug
I've got this b*tch of a 500E dialed in & I will make up any reason to go out and drive it...even if just for a short flog to ease the fixation.
I love the little red electric eye of this MB Quart amp which indicates its doing its job. An external hard drive in the center rolltop houses my tunes. I'm still working my way thru bands starting with "A".
Just a short while ago, listening to this, I was powering up an inclined interstate on ramp at WOT. I rocketed into the mainstream (safely) pushing 100mph. My radar was rocking because right in front of me was a State Trooper SUV.
Needless to say, I backed off on the Warp Factor, settled in behind the Trooper & behaved. I got off the Interstate at the next exit.
I've got this b*tch of a 500E dialed in & I will make up any reason to go out and drive it...even if just for a short flog to ease the fixation.
I love the little red electric eye of this MB Quart amp which indicates its doing its job. An external hard drive in the center rolltop houses my tunes. I'm still working my way thru bands starting with "A".
Just a short while ago, listening to this, I was powering up an inclined interstate on ramp at WOT. I rocketed into the mainstream (safely) pushing 100mph. My radar was rocking because right in front of me was a State Trooper SUV.
Needless to say, I backed off on the Warp Factor, settled in behind the Trooper & behaved. I got off the Interstate at the next exit.
Re: City Lights
I do the same with my 036's. It saves my $$$ Osram Hyper H4's as I always run the fogs+city lights during daylight hours. And it looks pretty cool too, IMO.5W is better than 65W. No reason to burn the lowbeams during daylight hours. City lights run as daytime running lights; reduces/conserves the hours use of the halogen headlights.
Re: City Lights
Yup. I like the looks, too. Thanks for your input as I bounced my wiring ideas off on you way back when.
Yup. I like the looks, too. Thanks for your input as I bounced my wiring ideas off on you way back when.
Re: City Lights
QUOTE=DerFuror;]To reiterate: These City lights are 5W bulbs wired into foglight circuit which allows parking lights to still operate as standalones. [/QUOTE]
So the city lights and the fog lights come on together?Are city lights what would be the euro parking lights?Procedure for this job available?
QUOTE=DerFuror;]To reiterate: These City lights are 5W bulbs wired into foglight circuit which allows parking lights to still operate as standalones. [/QUOTE]
So the city lights and the fog lights come on together?Are city lights what would be the euro parking lights?Procedure for this job available?