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DTC Code 8 on pin 17

kubasz

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Hello everyone

I have a blink code reader and when i read codes i still have 8 blinks on pin 17. After erasing this fault is coming back. I found in DTC that this is something related with S65 protection switch on transmission:
Transmisson overload protection switch does not close
Test step/Remedy is 24 => 5.0

I dont know where to look for this remedy. Anyone knows whats going on? Anyone can help?

Thanks in advance.
 
hello gerryvz

I do not have access to the WIS. :( Can you spend few seconds or minutes and give me those informations from WIS?
 
There isn't much to test. It's saying that the switch does not close. That means either the wires are diconnected or broken going to the switch on the transmission (forward, driver side); or the switch is defective. Remedy is to repair the wiring or replace the switch. The WIS remedies are almost always entirely useless so don't expect much if/when you do see the formal documentation.

:stickpoke:
 
It's a PITA to get the info out of the WIS, it's not something that just takes 10 seconds. But if someone was willing to do that, sure, no problems posting it here. You can buy a WIS and EPC on eBay (bootleg copies of course). In the USA, you can pay for online access, but I'm not sure if that is available in other countries.

Someone else had the same problem as you, btw:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?1335-Transmission-DTC-8-out-of-PIN-17

:wormhole:
 
Hello gsxr

Thanks for help. So i will just try to replace this part and see what happens. :)
I thought that maybe there are some steps to engage this switch manually and check it or to make some external electric circuts with light bulb and see whether bulb will shine when OPS operates. That test would eliminete or indicate wiring fault. I will post results after replacing this switch.
 
The WIS remedies are almost always entirely useless
i disagree. Though as you say the WIS is not easy to use, I have found it very useful in terms of diagnostic trees when figuring out what can be wrong.

In this case (with the transmission overload protection switch) it may be a bit more cut and dried than normal, the WIS can often detail all possible avenues that would be responsible for a fault. So I think you're generalizing a bit much (negatively) about the usefulness of the WIS.

Cheers,
Gerry




Sent using Tapatalk HD
 
I think it depends on the particular item you are diagnosing. In my experience, the specific remedies in the WIS are often not much help, and/or require breakout boxes that are thousands of dollars, that no DIY mechanic would have. The DTC explanation is really all that's needed in this case. The WIS is very useful for that portion. Feel free to look up the remedy 24 => 5.0 and post it here, Gerry... would be interesting to see what it says.

:grouphug:
 
Hello guys

Transmission overload protection switch changed to a new one from mercedes dealership but this fault still comes back. I checked wires and plug and see nothing wrong. I had to buy an expensive flat wrench to undo this switch and all for nothing :P
Btw my benz just made 300 000km :)
 
Btw my benz just made 300 000km
Good, then it's finally past it's drive-in period! ;-)

Too bad it didn't solve your problem, though. ./me calls the experts back to this thread.
 
"I had to buy an expensive flat wrench to undo this switch."

I never tried to remove this switch, but I remember I once asked the dealer's tech if he used a special wrench to do it. He said he hits the side of the nut with an air chisel and knocks it loose because it's so difficult to get a wrench around it.
 
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All methods that give efect are good :) The wrench i bought was not special. Only thing that is unusual about it is its size (36mm). Like for one use it was definitly not worth but i dont have air gun or lift.

The rounded end of it is at an angle so its possible to pass oil pan by and undo this switch.
 

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I don't have air tools either, although I do have a compressor. I thought about replacing my transmission overload switch since I have been getting the same transmission overload code for several years, but I just clear it out periodically because I never race the car and from what I have read about replacing the switch (getting that little pin to go in the right place through the band and then keeping it from leaking at the threads) I think I will wait a while longer. I'm sure the wrench does look nice in your tool collection. I had to buy a similar size wrench (1 7/16") (about 36 mm) to take the A.I.R. hose off a 454 manifold. I doubt I will ever use it again.
 
I used a 36mm standard sears socket and a wrench conversion thing into the socket- then it takes a 3/4 (19mm) wrench. I used my 1.5 or 4 lb dead blow a few wacks and it came off. I may have carefully pushed the trans over a bit by loosening the trans mounts and use a board. Don't remember except it was close and tight.

Pin was no big deal- I posted the part numbers for retainer and o-rings.

Michael
 
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I'm still not clear on what the switch does. I was once told that it sends a signal to retard the timing slightly, right before the shift, so the engine is not putting out as much horsepower. If I don't rev the engine about 4,000 RPM, is it really that important?
 
Hello guys

today my brother asked me to help him with this overload switch error so first thing on a list was the electric plug at the switch (again, but my first checking procedure assured meit wasn't this) and we hit the jackpot. After taking this ruber boot of a connector we saw that one wire was broken of the pin. It was not a comfortable job laying under the car with soldering iron but im glad it was not something inside the transmission. Pictures tell rest of the story. :)
no more 8 blinks at pin 17.

next thing is to replace kickdown seals :(
 

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i disagree. Though as you say the WIS is not easy to use, I have found it very useful in terms of diagnostic trees when figuring out what can be wrong.

In this case (with the transmission overload protection switch) it may be a bit more cut and dried than normal, the WIS can often detail all possible avenues that would be responsible for a fault. So I think you're generalizing a bit much (negatively) about the usefulness of the WIS.
Here's a good example of the diagnostics that the WIS will show you... click here, see the docs attached in post #4.

This is what I meant about some WIS information not being terribly helpful for DIY mechanics.

:stirthepot:
 
After taking this ruber boot of a connector we saw that one wire was broken of the pin.

Glad to hear you found the issue. I know the feeling of having to solder while laying on my back. I've noticed wires breaking off of pins on my car a few times. It usually happens on connectors that are low to the ground where water can get in and corrode the connection. It seems like a silly oversight for a company like MB to not have protected these points a little better. Then again we're all too familiar with wiring issues on W124's.
 
Sorry for resurrecting, but better than submitting a new thread :)

Yesterday, I checked my codes and for the first time in 9 months got this code:

[TABLE="width: 1177"] [TR] [TD="class: xl65, width: 230"]17 EZL (Digital Ignition System)[/TD] [TD="class: xl65, width: 64, align: right"]8[/TD] [TD="class: xl65, width: 121"]cleared
[/TD] [TD="class: xl65, width: 762"]Transmission overload protection switch (S65) does not close[/TD] [/TR]
[/TABLE]From the other thread I understand this is good, because sometimes the switch goes out and no code is sent. I also understand that it takes several trips in a row with an error for it to show up. I cleared it, but now I am concerned.

The switch is ~$60, so I am not replacing it just yet. But I WOULD like to check the wiring. From the 3 pictures I can't really tell where the switch is. I don't have a lift so I'll have to work with jacks. I just want to check if the wires are connected.

My shifting is better after the trans. fluid change and patching up a disconnected vacuum to the EZL, but I still have some hesitation in power <3000 RPM, not sure if related.

How do I get to the switch exactly?
 

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