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Engine cutting off at operating temperature

amrik

Member
Member
Have replaced the upper wiring harness, and now the car starts perfectly.
However, when it reaches operating temperature (80), the car shuts down.
I'm guessing it would be one of the sensors doing this, any ideas anyone?
 
Wasn't the harness a DIY rebuild??
If it is (I hope I'm wrong) you might be in for a long haul in tracing this issue.
No one chimed in on this?? I certainly haven't heard this before, not in this forum or any other.

Guys??
 
Never heard of this, but could you explain "shuts down" in more detail?

Also, as Bing said, is this a new OE harness or a DIY rebuild?


:blink:
 
A better description would be helpful. Does it always happen at the same temperature? Does it matter if you push the throttle? What happens if you restart directly after it "shuts down"? Does it shut down at once, or does it start gurgling for a bit?
 
The other day it didn't shut down, but it did miss a few beats, (as if a vacuum line has come off somewhere, but can't see where) when initially pressing the accelerator at optimum temps and then it picked up after 2 seconds. When it does shut down, on restarting, it'll backfire and pop at the exhaust but will not fire up untill its cooled down. Yes the loom was a self build and each wire/connection has been thouroughly tested via a continuity tester, so its not the loom at fault. Could something have shorted when the original loom was in there????
 
O.K i've changed the air mass sensor and its stopped cutting out, but when quickly depressing the accelerator it wants to cut out, but if i depress the accelerator gently its fine, what could the problem be ?????
 
Have you bothered pulling the codes to see what, if any issues, are showing up in the codes? If you have codes, reset them and run the car to see what comes back.
 
Don't have a star machine but am getting someone who does to come around tomorrow hopefully. Will update accordingly. I'm hoping its old faults that have been stored when the old loom was on that just need re-setting now. One can hope ey!
 
No Star machine needed, just a hand-held blink code reader that can be purchased for ~$40, or built from Radio Shack parts for under $20 total...

:banana2:
 
Here's the schematic to build the circuit. Note that the provided LED part numbers from Radio Shack have built-in resistors, if you use non-resistor LED's you will need to put a resistor in the circuit. I know when I built mine many years ago, I needed a separate resistor. Also, the listed banana plugs are for the larger (4mm) 8-pin or 16-pin connectors. The 500E uses smaller (1mm) pins.
 

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Here's the circuit with separate resistor. Looks like the part numbers are from Radio Shack as well but you should be able to source the appropriate resistor at any electronics store. The fuse is not strictly necessary and can be left out if you want.
 

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