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Front end vibration at highway speeds 93 500e

azjtravels

Active member
Member
Hello,

My 500e with 75k miles has a vibration in the front end at highway speeds (70mph and up). It feels like an unbalanced tire. However, since I purchased the car I have replaced the front LCAs, wheels, tires, struts and had a full 4-wheel alignment done. None of those solved this issue. The car is perfect, other than this.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh
 
Josh, have you had the wheels checked for straightness, and gotten Road Force numbers below ~15 lbs, per @Jlaa's recent writeup (see link below)?

In particular, if you can feel the vibration through the steering wheel AND it varies with speed, it is 99.44% likely to be wheels / tires / balancing. The tough part is convincing a tyre shop to go the extra mile and get them perfect.

Also - what brand/size wheels do you have, and what make/model/size tires?


:burnout:
 
Also @azjtravels try to use a set of BIG ASS CHANNEL LOCKS and see if there is any up/down movement on any of the tie rod ends - either inner or outer.

Look at the second video at this post - Car has the heeby-jeeby shakes (was Hubcentric 5mm spacers?) [FIXED] | Wheels and Tires

You will see that my inner tie rod ball joint had 1mm play, and replacing this contributed to me obtaining the current glass smooth ride.
Note that 99 out of 100 professional mechanics will shake your wheel/tire/steering assembly and detect no lateral play and declare your tie rods good ....... BUT THIS IS NOT THE CASE WITH THE W124.

Any little bit of up and down motion on the tie rod ends and you should replace the end. That will help with a smooth ride. See here as well for reference. HOW-TO: Check W124 steering linkage joints for play | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

@gsxr I believe @azjtravels has nearly new NEEZ 18" wheels on Mich Pilot PS4 A/S - from here - w124 E500E Non Standard wheel picture thread.Post your pics | Wheels and Tires
 
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Interesting. I’ll try both. They did road force balance them when I had them installed, but I don’t know if it was down to 15lbs. I have 18” custom forged wheels from that guy in Japan who makes them. Tires are Michelin PS4-All Seasons. As he mentions above.

Wheels and tires have less than 1500 miles on them.
 
I did replace the strut mounts, as well. Not the front tie-rods, though. I just ordered a rebuilt set of the “correct” Lower Control Arms. You sent me a great article a while ago showing that the “new” ones I bought were actually the old design. I have the redesigned ones coming.

I finally found a set of the Silver Arrow rear calipers. Unfortunately, I had to purchase an entire brake upgrade kit which included the fronts, as well. I already had those. Now I have an extra set. In case you need some. Calipers, pads, sensors, anti-vibration clips.
 
Just curious, what "correct" control arms did you buy - what brand/vendor/etc? The late/redesigned version has been NLA from MB and the aftermarket ones are of questionable quality. This wouldn't affect your vibration, just something to be aware of prior to installing.

:duck:
 

I hope these are actual OEM….

1661779996298.png

124 330 35 07 Genuine MB Right Lower Control Arm Remanufactured (1 Year Warranty).
124 330 34 07 Genuine MB Left Lower Control Arm Remanufactured (1 Year Warranty).
Comes with 1 year part warranty.
Does not include control arm bushings.
 
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I hope these are actual OEM….
Is there any way you can return those and get your money back? :shock:

Yes, they are OEM, but the only thing "refurbished" about them is a new coat of paint and - maybe - a new dust boot on the ball joint. For $950 they didn't even install new bushings?!!!! They are selling the new OE bushings separately for $225 each (link, 2 required) when you can buy them from a dealer for <$150 each. Unbelievable. Note the ball joints cannot be replaced, repaired, or refurbished other than adding some grease.

Looking at their other listings (and feedback), it appears the seller is parting out an E320 and asking exorbitant prices for some items. ~$350 for door cards... $100 delivered for a single visor... $700 (link) for an original wiring harness with bad insulation...!!!

Assuming you don't have the original control arms to refurbish yourself, call your favorite dealer and ask if they can still get any of 124-330-36-07 and 124-330-37-07, these are identical to the #34/35 except the #36/37 have stiffer rubber bushings. MSRP is $1k/pair but discount dealers have them for ~$700/pair. WITH new bushings and new balljoint.

:blink: 🤯

search keywords: late control arm rebuilt reman remanufactured refurb LCA ball joint
 
Would worn out eccentric bolts (and/or worn out washer tabs) cause the vibration?
no, the eccentrics only allow movement in/out for alignment, while the bolts are loose. Once torqued to spec, the LCA is locked in place and the eccentrics/tabs have no effect.

:banana1:
 
Ugh. My bet is either you need roadforce match mounting of wheels / tires and/or both tierods and steering damper and draglink and that bushing downthere. If none of those steering components have ever been replaced, then replace them anyways at 75K. You will feel a difference - guaranteed.
 
+1 on Roadforce balancing.

I was chasing front end vibration for along time, my 17” AMG OZ’s drove absolutely perfect, but when I switched over to my other 18” set I would always get a vibration when I reached 65-70mph+ - I recently got them roadforce balanced and man, it drives like a new car now, no vibration at all from 100+ mph, so highly recommend trying that before you dump a lot of money in changing other things.
 
+1 on Roadforce balancing.

I was chasing front end vibration for along time, my 17” AMG OZ’s drove absolutely perfect, but when I switched over to my other 18” set I would always get a vibration when I reached 65-70mph+ - I recently got them roadforce balanced and man, it drives like a new car now, no vibration at all from 100+ mph, so highly recommend trying that before you dump a lot of money in changing other things.
Matin, I'm also in London. Can I ask who you used for roadforce balancing?
 
Matin, I'm also in London. Can I ask who you used for roadforce balancing?
I used Elite Direct Tyres based in Rainham.


Cost is £120 for all 4 road force balancing.
 

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