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FOR SALE FS: Spring Compressor Kit
- Thread starter Ntrepid
- Start date
Good question. There are no markings on the box nor on the individual pieces. When I compared to the Klann ones here on the board, they are very similar. I think this is a good deal for someone who wants to do this themselves without shelling out a large amount of money.
Robert
Robert
Ricardo, how did you like quality, in terms of durability, of this clone?
That's a good start, haha
I have a similar ebay generic red case set like this. It has served me well with one exception. The locating lug on the compressor shaft is too short and the whole thing can fly apart when compressing large w140 springs!! Next use will be in a few days so i'll build that lug up with weld to make it safer. Always worked 100% fine on puny w124 springs 
W140 fronts are like a bus spring - massive. As a serious side note I always wear welding gloves and a face sheild when working with spring compressors and it saved my skin when one w140 front spring blew apart on me with the compressor. Always hold the compressed spring like its a bomb waiting to go off and keep it well away from your face etc.
PS you do not need a spring compressor for rear w124 springs. Just put a jack under the rear control arm and remove the inner LCA bolt. Works great and quicker than messing with the compressor.
Final tip - Always take photos of the removed spring, the clocking and position of the plates. This means the new spring should go right back in again without changing plates around etc!
W140 fronts are like a bus spring - massive. As a serious side note I always wear welding gloves and a face sheild when working with spring compressors and it saved my skin when one w140 front spring blew apart on me with the compressor. Always hold the compressed spring like its a bomb waiting to go off and keep it well away from your face etc.PS you do not need a spring compressor for rear w124 springs. Just put a jack under the rear control arm and remove the inner LCA bolt. Works great and quicker than messing with the compressor.
Final tip - Always take photos of the removed spring, the clocking and position of the plates. This means the new spring should go right back in again without changing plates around etc!
How did that happen? What part of the compressor failed?
I, obviously, never done a spring replacement before. Could you please illustrate exactly why plates should not be changed around? Thanks
The failure is the rotational force that is applied to the plates as you compress a large spring. The extendable centre section of this tool should not be able to rotate. It has a notch along its length and the centre shaft has a lug. Thus when you turn the screw the centre shaft moves up and down and should not turn.
Under heavy 140 load my compressor has flexed just enough for the force to overcome the too small lug and the centre section can then turn. In seconds the compressor let's go - normally jumping a coil before it gets grip again. Scary stuff
The plates placement is due to the brackets etc in the car. You have to mess with them in order to find a spot where the plates fit in around the car and also Compress the spring enough for removal. My tip is that once you have this figured out and the old spring out - simply note and copy where the plates where and place them the same way on the new spring.
This way you know you should be able to set the new spring in - first time. If for example you set the upper plate on a higher coil you might well find it starts to bind and hit the cars upper spring cup when you start to de-compress the spring in situ.
