FYI Fuel Pump and Hose Replacement Info with part numbers (Was: Fuel leak while running)

[makemann]

ADMIN EDIT:

• Post #8 has the part number for high-pressure hose exiting the fuel filter (most critical to replace if original or aftermarket)
• Post #18 has the part number for feed hose from fuel tank/strainer to fuel pump inlet.
• Post #22 has the part number for connecting hose between fuel pumps.
• Post #30 has the part numbers for vent & return hoses (also critical to replace)
• Post #31 has the part numbers for dual fuel pumps and fuel filter, post #32 has info for single fuel pump & filter

Rushed to get my son to school yesterday and I smelled a strong odor of fuel when my son opened the door to get in and out of my '92 500E. I was going to drive the car to work, but the smell was too strong. I drove it back to my house, got out and saw a trail of gasoline leaving my driveway and a puddle where I idled while waiting for my son to get in the car.

I immediately parked it and jumped in my other car to rush to work. I haven't had a chance to inspect it yet, but wondering if you guys have an idea where the weak point is and what it could be potentially.

It looked like it was leaking from the rear, just mid- of the driver's side. Again, it was only leaking while the car was running and I didn't smell fuel from inside the car--only outside. And it was really pouring out while running.

It is always stored in my garage (not now tho) and I never smelled fuel or saw any drips or puddling.

Thanks,
Max

 

[Klink]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Rushed to get my son to school yesterday and I smelled a strong odor of fuel when my son opened the door to get in and out of my '92 500E. I was going to drive the car to work, but the smell was too strong. I drove it back to my house, got out and saw a trail of gasoline leaving my driveway and a puddle where I idled while waiting for my son to get in the car.

I immediately parked it and jumped in my other car to rush to work. I haven't had a chance to inspect it yet, but wondering if you guys have an idea where the weak point is and what it could be potentially.

It looked like it was leaking from the rear, just mid- of the driver's side. Again, it was only leaking while the car was running and I didn't smell fuel from inside the car--only outside. And it was really pouring out while running.

It is always stored in my garage (not now tho) and I never smelled fuel or saw any drips or puddling.

Thanks,
Max

Probably a small leak in a high-pressure fuel hose. You will have to remove four or so plastic nuts from a plastic panel under the car. It is in the area below and slightly rear of the right rear seat.

 

[gsxr]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Klink read my mind. The high-pressure hose from the fuel filter outlet, to the 'hard line' pipe on the body/frame, is a common leaker. Make sure to only replace with an OE/dealer hose. Inspect the other hoses while you're in there, particularly the large diameter hose from the fuel tank to the pump inlet, if there are visible cracks I'd change it on principle.

Pics below... differential removed for clarity.

 

[Klink]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Wow! As always, thanks for the photos and explanation, Gixxer.

 

[makemann]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Thanks gentlemen! I'll take care of it this weekend.

 

[makemann]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Received the replacement hose this past week. Sure enough, it was just as you suspected. Repaired it easy peasy in a few minutes. Thank you guys.

Looks like it was rubbing against the undercarriage and finally gave way.

 

[Trae]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

I just did this job.

You will need:
1. Two 17mm box end wrenches.
2. One 14 mm box end wrench.
3. 10mm socket with an extension.
4. Fuel hose part number: 124-470-80-75
List price = $117 [Typical discount dealer] MB price = $88

You must first get access to the plastic encapsulation panel sitting below the right rear passenger seat.
I tried ramps, but my exhaust tips were not quite clearing the ramps, so I borrowed a friends lift.

From the lift, it is easy.

1. Remove 4 10mm nuts from the plastic encapsulation panel housing the fuel filter and hose.
2. With both 17mm wrenches, loosen the hose from the fuel filter.
3. With the 17mm and 14mm wrenches, loosen the other end of the fuel line.
4. Wait a few minutes for the fuel to leak out of the hose and filter.
5. After the fuel quits dripping, unscrew the hose from the filter, then unscrew the top part of the hose. At the top of the hose, the 14mm is the side that unscrews, not the big 17mm part of the hose.
6. Observe how the hose is routed so you can remember how to install new one.
7. Push the hose upward out of it's clip at the bracket above the fuel filter and pull hose through.
8. Install new hose in reverse order.
9. Make sure both connections are snug, start car, and look for leaks.

 

[gsxr]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

4. Fuel hose # 124-470-80-75
List $117 Gainsville MB price $88

This high pressure hose p/n 124-470-80-75 spiked in price as of Jan-2016 at MB dealerships. It had been around $42 list for the past few years, and as Trae noted it nearly tripled in price to $117 list.

That said, buyer beware! I ordered a CRP brand hose from AHAZ. CRP Automotive is the parent company of Conti. At $21, it was too tempting not to try, since the OE hose is Conti and I expected an OEM hose. Unfortunately, I received a Trucktec hose, see photos below. I returned it & bought the OE hose instead. AHAZ claimed that Trucktec was acquired by CRP/Conti, so their listing the brand as CRP was technically accurate. However I was unable to find any evidence to prove this, AFAICT, Trucktec has no relation with CRP/Conti. The CRP Automotive site (click here) does not mention Trucktec anywhere. Interestingly, AHAZ now shows the CRP hose on "backorder". [Nov-2017 update: AHAZ and all other aftermarket vendors currently show a "Cohline" hose for ~$20, I ordered one and it is Cohline branded, but has no COO and is of unknown kwality. - See note in red text below - and post #48. As of April-2024 the Cohline price is up to $50-$60.]

Anyway - as you can see in the photos below, it is worth paying for the Genuine Mercedes hose.


MARCH 2018 UPDATE: Price for the OE hose is still $117 list, MB Laredo has it for ~$85 with reasonable shipping. (Edit - same price in April 2024):
https://www.mbpartsource.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-fuel-hose-1244708075

OCTOBER 2018 UPDATE: Details & photos of the Cohline-branded hose are at the link below. (Edit - see note in red from post #48):
G320 (M104 motor) Fuel Hose Replacement | G-Wagen Models

APRIL 2024 UPDATE: The Cohline-branded hose is still available, but the price has increased to ±$60 from most aftermarket vendors.
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/1244708075-MFG20.aspx


WARNING: See post #48 below (link). The Cohline aftermarket hose may not last as long as the OE/Genuine hose. It does not appear to be worth the $30 savings.

 

[gsxr]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Received the replacement hose this past week. Sure enough, it was just as you suspected. Repaired it easy peasy in a few minutes. Thank you guys.

Looks like it was rubbing against the undercarriage and finally gave way.

makemann, from your photo, it appears that was an aftermarket hose - not OE. I bet it wasn't very old either.

 

[Zuffenhausen]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

What is involved in changing the fuel strainer in the tank?

 

[gerryvz]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Factory procedure for the .036 attached.

 

[Zuffenhausen]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Any recommended hoses I should change while there?

 

[gerryvz]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

At this age, ALL fuel hoses should be changed on ALL E500Es. This is a significant part of the deferred maintenance regimen that most all of our cars are carrying. I'm talking about the hoses at the fuel pump bundle, and the fuel supply and return hoses that run up to the engine bay. And fuel tank vent hoses.

The condition of the fuel lines of my 560SEC and my former E320 wagon completely convinced me that this job is REQUIRED maintenance. Running on original lines is risking what Klink calls a "CAR-B-Q"

 

[Zuffenhausen]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Can someone chime in with the part number for the feed hose and the fuel assembly hangers?

 

[lowman]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

not to argue the necessity of replacing fuel lines...BUT it really comes down to the enviroment also...I reckon ALL the USA cars...really need to replace them..because of the hotter climate for the most part of these cars
But i can see that on mine..there is not even a single crack in any of the fuel line/tubes.and rubber is tight and "soft"..and mine is from Germany .
but its all about checking the condition of these fuel lines..
But a good thing to replace them if you find any cracking..rather before than after really

 

[samiam44]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

Gerry,

I thought the engine compartment hoses were NLA for these cars? If we got serious interest, I could probably get a run made.



Michael

 

[Zuffenhausen]

Re: Cranking issue with e500

ok so my main fuel feed hose from the tank has some cracks in it. What are the part numbers for the main feed, high pressure hoses and the rubber grommet where the hose meets the tank. Please

 

[gsxr]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

High pressure hose info is discussed previously in this thread.

The feed hose from the tank is shown in the attached photo, part number 124-470-69-75.
MSRP has remained unchanged between 2014 and Jan-2021 at $145.

UPDATE: As of Feb-2025, MSRP has increased to $180.

 

[Zuffenhausen]

Re: '92 500E Fuel Leak while running

ok cool ty. trying to avoid a car b que

 

[DarkStar]

Replaced the 124-470-80-75 soft line between pumps filter and hardline and the other lines looked ok. Tested it and no leaks...

Two months later (haven't really driven it much) I am dealing with SLS issues and notice a stream of gasoline dripping from the pumps... I think I have a leaky pump.
I tightened the connections on the hardline where it connects the filter to the pumps. That was snug and made no difference.
Further inspection reveals it is time to replace the big line from the tank to the pump, see some hairline cracks just starting.
Also noticed a slight crack in the rubber on the line between the pumps.

 

[DarkStar]

Any idea as to the availability and PN of the metal / rubber hose that connects the output of pump1 to the input of pump2?

 

[gsxr]

Any idea as to the availability and PN of the metal / rubber hose that connects the output of pump1 to the input of pump2?

P/N is 129-470-06-64 and MB Classic does not show anything, which isn't a good sign... however, you'll need to contact a dealer and ask them to check worldwide inventory in Paragon. If available, Naperville has it for $52.

Fuel Line, Fuel Tank 129-470-06-64 | MB OEM Parts




This hose/pipe assembly is still available as of late 2022, MB Classic shows available (link below), and Naperville confirmed inventory in USA. Current price is ~$48 from MBOEMParts.

Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.

Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).

partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

 

[geraniumtr]

Darkstar: Regarding fuel line 129 470 06 64...I only recently replaced this line plus others on my 94 E320. Just called my dealers Parts counter to check for you. Line is still available but... only two left in the states!

Regards,

Peter Weissman

 

[DarkStar]

Thanks Guys!

What a crazy design! 20mm of rubber guaranteed to go bad...

 

[DarkStar]

Any suggestions as to tools to remove/replace the line out of the fuel tank? I figure I can cut the rubber hose and get a deep socket on the fitting to get it off.
Without removing the differential, I think it will be tight getting any leverage on it with an open end wrench.

I ordered the parts and hope to do it next week if they show up.

 

[gsxr]

Any suggestions as to tools to remove/replace the line out of the fuel tank? I figure I can cut the rubber hose and get a deep socket on the fitting to get it off.
Without removing the differential, I think it will be tight getting any leverage on it with an open end wrench.

I ordered the parts and hope to do it next week if they show up.

EDIT: The info below applies to the E500E. It's the SLS valve which blocks access to the tank outlet, and makes the job difficult. On the 034 chassis without SLS, this job is much easier. Additional details are in this post.


The tank hose is a PITA to replace. The best option is to drop the differential, if you have ANY excuse to do so... tiniest sign of a weeping seal? Pull the diff.

With the diff in place, you have to get really creative. From memory, I had to slide an open-end wrench under the tank from inside the trunk, with the vertical trunk carpet pulled, to break it free... then try to get my hands around the diff to unscrew the hose from the tank strainer. Don't cross-thread when installing the new hose! IIRC, there were issues trying to fit any open-end wrench above the diff, with the other fuel/brake/SLS lines in the way.

As a bonus, the factory-specified crow-foot wrench doesn't fit... it can't slide over the metal neck of the hose. Might have the same problem with a socket, if you cut the hose, and besides you'll need practice working it with the hose intact. See photo in post #3 with the diff out.

Oh, getting the rubber booty back in place is fun too. Just wait, you'll see!

 

[gerryvz]

GSXR takes great schadenfreude in others performing difficult jobs. I seem to remember him doing same when I did a certain tandem pump removal and replacement job.

 

[DarkStar]

Thanks GSXR! Always a wealth of knowledge and a ray of sunshine! . GVZ - you know misery loves company!

I have a long term plan to rebuild the rear suspension, have most of the parts for suspension and subframe mounts but was not looking forward to a long project in the middle of 100F + temps and 90% humidity.

I was looking at HVAC systems for the garage....might have to pull the trigger on that project instead of a lift.

 

[nocfn]

DarkStar - it is a bit toasty here. With all the rain here in H-Town, I did the R/R of my fuel block on the SEC yesterday as the ambient temps dropped to the low 80's. The only gas that I spilled was out of the filter and the two fuel pumps; as expected.

 

[gsxr]

Don't forget to replace the vent valve, hoses, and 90° fuel return hose. Photos below. A defective vent valve can potentially cause the tank to collapse and possibly leak or cause odors in the passenger compartment. The 90L tank is NLA as of late 2020; the 70L tank is NLA as of early 2021.

If your vent valve and hoses are not recent, replace all of them. It's cheap insurance, <$40 for everything below from discount dealers.

124-476-04-32 - Fuel tank vent valve (optional with: 201-476-01-32)
114-997-18-82 - Fuel tank hose below vent valve, 7.5mm ID, 13.5mm OD (sold by the meter, 55mm needed)
107-476-24-26 - Fuel tank hose above vent valve, 9.5mm ID, 15.5mm OD (sold by the meter, 50mm needed)
124-471-32-23 - Fuel tank return hose, 90° molded <-- NLA by August 2023, see post #37 below. Also see note ** below.
124-997-19-90 - Clamp for 13.5mm OD hose, 4 required (Recommend 1 screw-type clamp 001-997-69-90 at chassis pipe connection, click here)
124-997-20-90 - Clamp for 15.5mm OD hose, 2 required

** Alternate hoses are available for the NLA 90° molded return hose: Try 202-476-89-26 or 208-476-17-26.

 

[gsxr]

Adding fuel pump & filter info for completeness. Approximately $90-$110 each for new aftermarket Bosch pumps, and $20 for an OEM filter.

Note this info is for vehicles with the dual-pump setup only. Very late production cars (per chassis break below, mid/late 1995 USA model year) use a different single pump, different filter, and different hoses. SEE NEXT POST FOR SINGLE-PUMP INFO.

003-091-53-01 - 2 required - Fuel pump, 52mm OD, to chassis C226335, (Bosch #69608)
007603-012110 - 6 required - Copper seal ring, 12mm ID, 17mm OD
002-477-44-01 - 1 required - Fuel filter, 82mm OD, to chassis C226335

Most all 124's will use this dual-pump setup, used through approximately December 1994 production.

Previous MB numbers are 002-091-88-01 or 000-470-41-94. The Pierburg aftermarket is not common, but is 7.21659.53.0 if you happen to find one.

 

[gsxr]

Very late-build 124's have a single pump, used from approximately January 1995 production.

000-470-59-94 - 1 required - Fuel pump, 43mm OD, as of chassis C226336 ( supercedes to MB # 000-470-78-94 )
002-477-27-01 - 1 required - Fuel filter, 75mm OD, as of chassis C226336 (

Aftermarket pump info:
Bosch #67968 or 0-986-580-372, Pierburg / TI Automotive 7.22156.50.0

Approximately $150 for a new aftermarket Bosch/Pierburg/TI pump. DO NOT buy any other brand to save a few bucks.

 

[DarkStar]

Funny that you posted this. First time in a couple months that I’m online. Replaced my tank and most lines but as I pulled out of my driveway a week ago my car died. Think it’s the pumps/relay. I managed to get it off the street and am now just looking at it.
Have two new pumps and vapor canister parts to install. It had been making some strange noises before it died.

 

[Ricardo]

The tank hose is a PITA to replace. The best option is to drop the differential, if you have ANY excuse to do so... tiniest sign of a weeping seal? Pull the diff.

With the diff in place, you have to get really creative. From memory, I had to slide an open-end wrench under the tank from inside the trunk, with the vertical trunk carpet pulled, to break it free... then try to get my hands around the diff to unscrew the hose from the tank strainer. Don't cross-thread when installing the new hose! IIRC, there were issues trying to fit any open-end wrench above the diff, with the other fuel/brake/SLS lines in the way.

As a bonus, the factory-specified crow-foot wrench doesn't fit... it can't slide over the metal neck of the hose. Might have the same problem with a socket, if you cut the hose, and besides you'll need practice working it with the hose intact. See photo in post #3 with the diff out.

Oh, getting the rubber booty back in place is fun too. Just wait, you'll see!

Fun indeed... In the process of replacing my lines on E420 and had to use 22mm crowfoot/universal joint/2 extensions to get the strainer2pump line off ..
looking forward to putting everything back... (now searching for inst on how to drop diff)

 

[Ricardo]

Fun indeed... In the process of replacing my lines on E420 and had to use 22mm crowfoot/universal joint/2 extensions to get the strainer2pump line off ..
looking forward to putting everything back... (now searching for inst on how to drop diff)

Hand tightened the new fuel line to the strainer and the torque/crowfoot/universal/extensions wrench took less than a full turn to meet torque spec... went together way easier than disassembly ... so all lines, check valve, strainer, are spankin' new... YAY..

 

[Jdpeachey]

Part number 124-471-32-23 seems to be NLA??
90* molded fuel hose

​

​

 

[gsxr]

Part number 124-471-32-23 seems to be NLA??
90* molded fuel hose

Crap. It is indeed NLA.

Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.

Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).

partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

 

[Jdpeachey]

Well now what? Im in the process of replacing all my fuel lines/pumps on my 400E.

Also the thread below should be updated

E500E Fuel Line Availability Update | M119 Engine

According to my research, a couple (and perhaps three) of the E500E "soft" (rubber) fuel lines are now NLA from MB. PartNumber Description Status / Cost Notes Photo / Illustration 124-470-52-64 Stainless steel braided hose from fuel distributor to fuel cooler (underhood) MSRP: $56...

www.500eboard.co

 

[gsxr]

Well now what? Im in the process of replacing all my fuel lines/pumps on my 400E.

If that hose is undamaged, leave it alone for now. It's a relatively low-pressure return hose. I am certain that a suitable replacement exists (from some other chassis) but until we figure out the part number, I don't know what to use in place of it. Bending a straight hose to ~90° probably is not a good idea.

Also the thread below should be updated
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/e500e-fuel-line-availability-update.13450/

The other thread has been updated.

 

[Kridre]

I was trying to replace that hose with straight. It is not possible, hose collapsed.

I also wanted to order this hose when I get back from vacation...

Well at least they made front grill badge available again for W124 and by modern MB standards it will probably still last ONE good wash...

 

[dreaming.haze]

Saw the same thing the other night when starting to plan out an order for the various parts described in this thread. Does any one have one in their parts stock? Curious if we could get some measurements on length / O.D. / I.D. / etc.

 

[gsxr]

I believe it's 7.5mm ID. I'll see if I can find one and check. The new hose is oversize and cut to length. The length needed is pretty short.

I found another (diesel) fuel hose with a 90° bend, p/n 602-078-00-81 ... I wonder if this would work? Five bucks at the dealer. WAIT, nevermind, that one is also NLA.

 

[gsxr]

Ditto for 124-476-03-26 (from M104 gas models)... also NLA.

 

[Jdpeachey]

I found another (diesel) fuel hose with a 90° bend, p/n 602-078-00-81 ... I wonder if this would work? Five bucks at the dealer.

mboemparts.com shows available but maybe the website needs updated?

 

[gsxr]

mboemparts.com shows available but maybe the website needs updated?

Yes, the website does "need updated"... most likely if you place an order, it will be cancelled. There's a faint chance of a few left floating around USA warehouses, but I doubt it:

Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.

Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).

partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

 

[gsxr]

Saw the same thing the other night when starting to plan out an order for the various parts described in this thread. Does any one have one in their parts stock? Curious if we could get some measurements on length / O.D. / I.D. / etc.

Will, see photo below. There HAS to be an equivalent hose still available, with a ±90° bend, that can be modified to work.

ID = 7.5mm
OD = 13.5mm

Note that the OD is only critical if using the stock spring clamps. More on that in the next post.

 

[gsxr]

Last Friday evening, I pulled out of the garage, and noticed a small spot on the floor where there should not have been any spot. Hmm, that's odd. I look under the car and see drip... drip... drip... onto the ground as it's idling. Crap. I had replaced the fuel pumps (new Bosch) a few months ago, and the high pressure hose was recent OE, so those should be fine - and they are on the passenger side. This drip was on the driver side, dripping directly on to the axle shaft, inner CV joint boot, right underneath where the fuel tank return hose & vent valve are located.

I thought the 90° hose had failed, but what happened was the factory spring clamps failed! They were broken, and without the clamping force, the pressure of the return fuel to the tank caused a leak when the engine was running. I also learned that the fuel tank must be nearly empty before you can remove this hose - drain or siphon it down to about the reserve level, with 2-3 gallons left. When you loosen the hose, there will be a small amount of fuel that will come out - a fluid ounce or two. If you get a half-cup or more, and it's still pouring out, there's too much gas in the tank. Don't ask how I know.

Since the old hose was intact and undamaged, and new hoses are NLA, I elected to re-use the hose and replace the clamps. (Calm down, folx, this is the beater 400E, not the 036). The fuel tank connection has no barb/bulge, it's a straight pipe and the hose slides on without much drama, even with a new clamp in place.

The lower fitting to the chassis hard pipe is a different story. With a new clamp in place, I could not get the hose to push over the barb/bulge on the pipe. Even lubed up, nope, no joy. To make matters worse, these stupid spring clamps deform each time you spread them apart. So when spreading the clamp to slide it further up the hose, it lost tension. Without the clamp in place, the hose finally slide onto the pipe. Then I could not get the clamp back over the bulged hose, and if I did, it was already stretched out and wouldn't clamp properly. At this point I gave up and used a screw-type clamp instead (not shown in photo). The screw clamp worked perfectly. No more leaks!

As another bonus, while R&R'ing the hose and replacing the clamps, ALL FOUR of the spring-type clamps for the plastic vent valve broke as well. If you have never replaced the vent valve, it's good preventive maintenance, along with 4 new clamps. Part numbers are in post #30 above.

001-997-69-90 = Alternate clamp (screw-type) for 7.5mm fuel hose with 90° bend, will work for chassis pipe fittings only - won't work at fuel tank pipe fittings. I added this part number to post #30 above for reference. It's probably a better, long-term components vs the spring clamp anyway. About three bucks each from MB.


Photo of old hose with broken spring clamps, next to new, uncut (NLA) hose:

 

[null]

The high-pressure hose from the fuel filter outlet, to the 'hard line' pipe on the body/frame, is a common leaker. Make sure to only replace with an OE/dealer hose. Inspect

+1 victim,
While being reunited with my car after 5 months of summer storage, she squirted from joy.
The Cohline hose was installed by previous owner 4 years ago, the manufacture date Dec 2017.
Didn’t expect it to be already all in shreds. Waiting for OE to arrive in mail

 

[gsxr]

+1 victim,
While being reunited with my car after 5 months of summer storage, she squirted from joy.
The Cohline hose was installed by previous owner 4 years ago, the manufacture date Dec 2017.
Didn’t expect it to be already all in shreds. Waiting for OE to arrive in mail

Yikes! I didn't expect a Cohline hose to fail that spectacularly, that rapidly. Glad you caught this before a car-B-que occurred!

 

[Kridre]

I sometimes wonder how anything is made nowadays when manufacturers can't even make a simple fuel hoses that last atleast 10 years. I also used cohline hoses for my car so now I know that I need to check them often...