More boost is unlikely to change the shape of the power curve. Yes, more boost will make more power (assuming backpressure is ok) but the peak power will probably remain around the 6000rpm ballpark. Pretty sure you'd need modified camshafts and/or cam timing to shift the peak power higher than 6000rpm. Unless you have a specific need for the higher RPM (i.e., road racing, trying to avoid unnecessary gear changes for certain corners) it may not be worth chasing this, nor trying to rev it beyond 7k. High RPM is more for normally aspirated builds. I'd be ecstatic with 600hp at the wheels at 5900rpm, which should be good for high 10's in the quarter mile in a W124 chassis.
yeah, can i get 800nms at 6500rpm that would be equal to 730hp if my Maths not wrong. going higher on torque will crack the cylinders are i afraid. torque Translates to cylinder pressure. thats why i add more boost to keep the torque longer.
yes the shape would stay the same but be more all over if i added the same amount of boost all the way. But if it gets to unreasonable amount of boost then i will back down on it but i would like to get the most out of the 71mm compressor
What ECU / boost controller are you using? Is the wastegate controlled electronically?
Ecu::Maxxecu Race
wastegate 60mm, controlled by maxxecu true a Mac valve.
Yeah, I'd be a little concerned as well. Just curious, why did you choose an open-deck block? I'm curious how a 5.0L engine would perform with similar boost. Staying below 7k avoids issues with oil pressure and valve float and all that jazz. As mentioned previously, since you can make power by adding boost, there's not as much need for the higher revs.
I got the donation car with the engine Pretty Cheap, it all started there. did not know about open and closed deck in them when i bought the car.
if im not remembering wrong, Hp equals to torque(lbs/ft) /5252 times the rpm you have the torque at. i
The problem with valvefloat would come a bit higher, m104 do they rev to 8000-8500rpm with double springs if i remember correct. a lot of parts are the same and i have read workshop manuals of them both and verified, i also have the light weight tappers and the lighter valves in my .980 heads.
I want more horsepower, but i am afraid that the torque will kill the engine. thats why i want to add more boost at higher rpm when the torque drops a bit.. i would have a huge amount of torque if i hade the same boost pressure at 5000rpm where it essentially peaks.
Nice! What is the advantage of the 220CDI converter, instead of the M119 converter? Also, how high will the new stall speed be?
the 220 cdi converter if smaller in diameter and therefore it have a higher stall, if i hold it on the Brakes with standard converter it will burn rubber at 15-1800rpm, the 220 cdi converter let me rev to 2400 before it turned the wheels, the new would be about 1000rpm higher sitting at 3400 at the starting light, then it would be much faster starts from zero of course on sticky tires..
it wont bolt straight on, but its do-able
Twisted the axle shafts and ripped the splines... that is awesome!
Very cool! Have any dragstrip timeslips yet? What is the rear axle ratio?
1500kg car, 201m was around 7.3 second. It was 3.73 then. first time racing and the car was just ready after building
LOL, now I see... you should add a 3-pointed Star on the hood of the brick!
That would be something
I not sure if this would block me, but i attached a picture of a burnout on 5th gear running 560hp and 235/40-18 tires, no problem at all getting them loose
