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OWNER JC220

E36 Widebody or C124 Widebody?

  • Use the 500E widebody kit on my E36 saloon

    Votes: 2 22.2%

  • Adapt the 500E widebody kit for my 320CE

    Votes: 7 77.8%
  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .
I keep forgetting the 201.034 had SLS as standard equipment. :doh:

You are right, Joe, if parked for extended periods (many months, or years) the SLS rear end can sag like this. A bit concerning that a ~£250k car may not have had the engine running much prior to listing - or, that the SLS has problems.

:duck:
 
I don't think the fuel distributor was working at all in my 190E. I suspect it may have been running on the cold start valve.

Look at the green deposits that came out of the inlet filter screen alone on the KE fuel distributor

20250825_162010.jpg

I am curious what the insides will look like when I dismantle the fuel distributor for proper cleaning and the rebuild kit.
 
:update:

The 300E intake boot does fit a 190E 2.5-16 but not without slightly enlarging the side hole for the small tube to connect without stretching the rubber boot too much. (I used an air die grinder)

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Back together now, less the metering head which I will start stripping down next.

20250827_210304.jpg

(It will get a full restoration later, this is just about getting the car running properly)
 
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I got to dismantling the old fuel pumps tonight.

20250828_190806.jpg

I tested them and one pump was dead and pulling current/ short circuit. So what I was hearing was just one pump running and I'm not sure if it was good either.

New genuine bosch pumps should be here tomorrow. I am tempted to try ultrasonic cleaning the fuel distributor complete and trying the car again over the weekend to see if the injection system works this time. I won't fit the new fuel injectors just yet until some fresh fuel flushes through the system incase tiny debris goes into the new injectors.

I also tested the throttle body potentiometer and its working OK. So ill see how the car behaves over the weekend if the pumps arrive and I get it back together for a test run.
 
R129 UK said:
Click to expand...
I hope the whole mistake reverse thing was an overplayed joke there!

To select reverse you have to lift the selector up. So its not really something I see as an issue. The good thing is all my other cars are automatic so I shouldn't mix it up once im driving the 190 for a while.

Obviously the purpose of a dog leg manual transmission is to keep 2nd and 3rd gears on the same throw which are the most used gears in racing. So ill have to test that out on some windy roads along with the lap timer :gsxracer:
 
Another 190 update -

This evening I got a couple hours of dry weather and fitted the new injectors & fuel pumps. I ultrasonic cleaned the fuel distributor and that worked great the needle now moves freely unlike before. No sign of any debris in the ports at all after cleaning.

20250830_153048.jpg

There are small fuel filters on each injector line output so I removed them before ultrasonic cleaning and cleaned them too. That made me comfortable to go ahead and fit the new injectors knowing the lines are filtered anyway.

20250830_153304.jpg

The car started right up and ran very nicely albeit I can still only run the car for less than a minute at a time due to the head freeze plug leak not allowing the engine to hold coolant. The engine sounds healthy and zero smoke from the exhaust. No knocks or strange noises it runs very well :)

I think this is a great car, it was sitting too long and down on its luck but anything I check has been better than I expected.

So that gives me enough confidence that the engine can stay in for the "rolling restoration" stages so next job will be to tackle exhuast manifold removal which will be tricky to access and rusty bolts so ill be using my inductor tool to heat them. Then replace the freeze plug and pressure test the coolant system before the manifold would go back on.
 
Does anyone know what the 2x sensors are in the air cleaner box of the 2.5-16's please? One must be air temperature but I am not sure what this larger 3 pin sensor does?

20250830_191033.jpg20250830_191000.jpg

It is disconnected at the moment until a new air filter arrives in a few days. The old air filter was very manky and I couldn't locate a new one in UK! It had to come from Germany and I dont want to refit the filthy one even for a few days.
 
JC220 said:
Update on the 190E,

I flushed the fuel system and changed the fuel filter. I cleaned all of the engine electrical connectors. Alot of them had signs of corrosion. It primed the fuel pumps and built pressure no problems no leaks. Then I got the oil filter today. I changed the oil and cranked it over without the spark plugs until I it built oil pressure.

Then it was time for a first startup attempt:


I can't run it for long until I replace the freeze plug in the cylinder head which means exhaust manifold must come off. But it did move under its own power briefly today for the first time in around 14 years. The fuel injection system isnt too happy ill have to look into that.
Click to expand...
The work is only really getting started but there is a significant improvement now when starting up the car VS the first start above:

 
I have ordered one of these I will show how it works when it gets here Mercedes KE-Jetronic tester / diagnostics device | eBay UK

Screenshot_20250831_195741_eBay.jpg

Whilst I have blink readers and 2x full MB laptop setups the KE Jetronic doesnt support anything other than blink reading. So this device does the code reading for you and also displays the mixture % if the car has a lambda sensor. (Or still code reading even if no lambda fitted)

I am not sure if this 2.5-16 has a lambda sensor. I haven't got under it to check, I will soon. The presence of a throttle position sensor suggests it "should" have a lambda sensor on the exhaust and if it does I will replace it as like everything else on this car its probably original. (No bad thing really, how many of these cars are still almost exactly as they left the factory)
 
Without watching the video... With a dwell meter you can check the function of the cis-e very well and "read out fault codes too". If the video covers that good... But search, there a lists of what certain fixed outputs mean in regards to faults. Also the idle and partial load mixture can be adjusted with the dwell meter quite well.
 
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