Klann vs. Sir Tools Spring Compressor Comparison

[luckymike]

I recently acquired a Klann spring compressor, complete with MB logo and part numbers. I look forward to trying it out. It will replace my Sir Tools version.

I only have experience using the ST so I don't know first hand how well the K works. The ST worked perfectly on both my W126 and my W124 front springs.

Both tools came with the compressor shaft and spring plates for W126 and W124 cars. Cases appear to be identical except for color. In all pics, the Klann is on the right.

Compressor Shafts:
There are noticeable differences between the two compressor shafts.

1. The K shaft has two guide slots in the first (bottom) and middle sections. The ST has two guide slots in the first section but the middle is solid.
2. The K has a fluted bottom plate retaining surface which matches fluting on each bottom plate. This prevents the bottom plate rotating on the compressor and I assume could also be used to rotate the plate in the spring using the bottom of the compressor as a handle. The ST compressor and bottom plates are both smooth here.
3. The K has a sacrificial pin design so that the 19mm main drive will shear a pin and free spin if the compressor is over-tightened. If this happens, the 10mm secondary drive is used to loosen the compressed spring. The set came with five spare pins. The ST does not have this feature.
4. The K is slightly shorter than the ST in extended length and about 8mm shorter in compressed length.

Spring Plates:
The plates between the two are similar but have some distinct differences.

1. The K has flats (for clamping a compressed spring in a vice for decompression) on just the bottom plates. The ST has flats on both top and bottom plates. The flats are a little more finished on the K.
2. The surface where the spring sits differs between the two. The K is more flat than the ST.
3. The top of the K compressor passes easily through the top plate with plenty of clearance. It's not a problem if the top plate is not perpendicular to the compressor shaft. The ST is much snugger in this area and less tolerant of misalignment as the shaft passes through the top plate. The O.D. of the top of the ST shaft is only slightly less than the I.D. of ST top plates. This is a bit cumbersome when trying to insert the compressor into the top plate since the plate is usually canted before compression begins.
4. The K plates seem to have more metal in the center of the top plate. The ST has rather large cutouts for the top of the compressor to pass through.
5. The retaining notches in the top plates of the K are narrower than the ST while the tips of the K compressor triangles are rounder than the ST. This results in the K compressor fitting more tightly when seated in the top plate. The ST has much more rotational play here.
6. The K has larger ramps than the ST for guiding the top of the compressor out of the top plate when removing.

 

[luckymike]

More.

 

[luckymike]

More.

 

[TerryA]

@luckymike,
If I may ask, why did you have to remove the front springs in your cars?

 

[luckymike]

@luckymike,
If I may ask, why did you have to remove the front springs in your cars?

@TerryA In both cases, it was to lower the front end slightly.

 

[Gatorblue92]

Good comparison between these tools. I bought the Klann version many years ago because it was required for the springs on my W123. The other versions were slightly too big to fit through the opening under the hood to compress the springs without modification and I didn’t want to hack up the car.

 

[GRAEME JOHNSON]

I would be interested in a comparison between these good quality expensive and safe tools
and the cheap sets sold on e-bay and the like
Graeme Johnson

 

[Kridre]

I have a cheap spring compressor tool, ASTA branded. I used it maybe 10 times before this thing circled in red slipped out of this channel. Of course spring almost went out flying, but thankfully the tool bound up and only injuries were paint on my H&R springs. I used my welder to make these things taller, and I haven't had any issues since. Here are the pictures how it looks. In my opinion if you don't have a welder to make this square pins taller, this tool is not safe to use and I wouldn't recommend it. If is slipped when I was removing the spring instead of being in the vice I would probably be writing this post with one hand.

 

[GRAEME JOHNSON]

Thanks for the reply and the tip on the modification. I will have a look at my cheap one to see if its the same.
I have only used mine once to replace the front springs on a R129 it felt a bit like de fusing a bomb I was
glad when I was finished
Graeme Johnson

 

[Jlaa]

While we are comparing tools, here is my cheap $35 ebay tool. @RicardoD and I have used this tool twice - once on the front left and once on the front right side of my w210. My tool doesn't seem to have that doohickey circled in red by @Kridre. So far I am not dead nor injured yet --- I have no plans to use this tool in the future on my 124 or 210 ..... or maybe if I ever find myself having to compress a 124 or 210 spring in the future, I should just buy a new tool as this one was so cheap.

 

[gsxr]

It looks like the circled doohicky is the guide slot that aligns the different sections...? I don't quite understand what failed, or why, on Kridre's tool:

 

[Jlaa]

It looks like the circled doohicky is the guide slot that aligns the different sections...? I don't quite understand what failed, or why, on Kridre's tool:

View attachment 180524

Ah. On my cheap tool that doohickey is just a stamped raised part of the inner "sleeve" that engages the open slot/channel.

 

[Kridre]

I will try to explain this better.

This "doohickey" was not tall enough and because the body that it's sliding against is really thin it rotated out of this sliding channel bending the outside body a bit and jamming the whole tool. Also this thing basically prevents the tool from unscrewing itself from the pressure of the spring. So the whole force of the spring is going against this channel and if this "doohickey" is not tall enough it will slip under the outside body.

Here is a picture of what I mean. I hope that I explained it better this time.

Edit: Also take a look how beefy this thing is on the Klann and Sir. Before I welded a taller doohickey mine looked almost exactly like the Jlaa one.

 

[bclifton]

Wow that's a super nice kit @luckymike

I recently bought a "semi-genuine" compressor - total was $800. There are two compressors:
Miller 9150 (long shaft / front; 202-589-01-31-00)
Miller 9151 (short shaft / rear; 202-589-02-31-00)

I'm not 100% sure (maybe someone can confirm), but I believe both Klann and Gedore made tools for Miller and Mercedes-Benz. So these should be matching spec- just branded as Miller.

Then I have the Miller 9152 (120mm plates) - this would be matching 202-589-13-63-00

And lastly I have the genuine MB 202 589 14 63 00 (140mm plates)


I went out to the shed and compared this to the "KlannKlone" briefcase set that I have (eBay special; $82 shipped).

Here are some results. The black plates are the "clone" and the zinc coated are the genuine.

First the larger 140mm plates


The genuine ones are definitely thinner. I had trouble getting the "clone" ones into my spring without hammering them in... I think these will fit no problem.

Same thing with the smaller (120mm) plates



The difference in thickness doesn't LOOK like a lot - but I think it's the difference between being able to slide it in without a problem and having to hammer it in.

The compressor is much better made too. When spinning the bolt on the buttom, it's buttery smooth as you turn it. The shaft on the "clone" moves around a lot and turning the bolt is not as easy. I don't think it conveys very well in the pictures - but the "clone" compressor is definitely garbage. I might just keep the briefcase and throw the tools themselves out

Top unit is the genuine one


A close up of the bolt. The one on the right (with the no air tools symbol) is the genuine one

 

[gsxr]

I'm not 100% sure (maybe someone can confirm), but I believe both Klann and Gedore made tools for Miller and Mercedes-Benz. So these should be matching spec- just branded as Miller.

Klann made the tools for Mercedes (adding the MB Star logo and 589- part numbers) and also for Miller, who was the tool supplier for Chrysler back when Daimler and Chrysler were briefly married. The Klann name changed to Gedore in recent years, I don't know if Gedore was an existing company that acquired Klann, or something similar - never researched it. Klann, Miller, Gedore - they are all coming from the same factory in Germany.

Today you would buy a new Gedore kit, not Klann. There's one on the 'Bay new for $1k (link), the standard KL-0025 kit with 1 long shaft and both small+large plates. Note the case and tools all look slightly different vs the Klann of years past. Photos show the Gedore kit is still made in Grrmany.

The compressor is much better made too. When spinning the bolt on the buttom, it's buttery smooth as you turn it. The shaft on the "clone" moves around a lot and turning the bolt is not as easy. I don't think it conveys very well in the pictures - but the "clone" compressor is definitely garbage. I might just keep the briefcase and throw the tools themselves out

FYI - the Klann paperwork specifies Molykote G-n as the appropriate lubricant for the threaded shaft. Reviews are excellent for this stuff.

Amazon.com

 

[luckymike]

Looks like the new Gedore has a higher spring load rating, 30,000 N vs. 26,000 N for my Klann.