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Looking a clean w211? Anyone
- Thread starter samiam44
- Start date
Yes and yes, also AutoTrader, and CarGurus:
https://www.cargurus.com/
Make sure you get something either past the balance shaft serial cutoff, or that already had the new parts installed. TSB attached.
Sure you don't want to move up to an E550...?
https://www.cargurus.com/
Make sure you get something either past the balance shaft serial cutoff, or that already had the new parts installed. TSB attached.
Sure you don't want to move up to an E550...?
My DD (wife's hand-me-down) is an '07 E320 Bluetec in Capri Blue. Bought it in '08 as a cpo.
It doesn't have the urine squirt - that came in '08, also no electric brakes.
It's been very reliable, great torque and mileage around 25 in town, mid 30s highway.
Almost 400 ft/lb of torque - gets right along...
It doesn't have the urine squirt - that came in '08, also no electric brakes.
It's been very reliable, great torque and mileage around 25 in town, mid 30s highway.
Almost 400 ft/lb of torque - gets right along...
To the OPs question about searching... if you didn't want to devote every waking moment to finding one, I would probably just look at Cargurus and ebay. On a regular basis. Meaning daily, if it were me.
The OM648 in the cdi was so damn smooth. The V6 turbo that replaced it had similar power numbers, but it's rated for lower mpg and it can't belch a massive cloud of smoke when you stomp on it. Which is a great part of the diesel charm. lol
I will agree that losing the SBC system was a real improvement in MY07.
The OM648 in the cdi was so damn smooth. The V6 turbo that replaced it had similar power numbers, but it's rated for lower mpg and it can't belch a massive cloud of smoke when you stomp on it. Which is a great part of the diesel charm. lol
I will agree that losing the SBC system was a real improvement in MY07.
the OM648s go for a rediculus premium over it's gas counterpart. Reason on diesels in the day, was simplicity. If either of you own a OM642, I would look a lot closer under the hood and realize there are much more expenses. These are no longer SIMPLE engines. They surpass the gaser complexity by a good bit. Sensors every where.. lots of connections.
The integrated batwing assembly for the MAS sensor ($$) is only the beginning. There have been parts changes through the years, like the oil cooler orings which have been changed 2-3 times. Rear seal which was redesigned due to leaking problems and the oil separator has been redesigned a few times or at least the part number rolled. The low friction chain setup is seems ppl are reporting replacements at less than 100k.. Inquiring on the oil cooler orings- I was informed they had at least 3 in for that repair nearly at all times(~15 hr job+ count on 4-6 hrs on cleaning manifold, EGR, and mixer). Add that these seals go into the main oil galley connection- so getting any dirt into them and you run potential of eating main bearings. So, if you go in here... clean well and get all the sand/dirt/oil muck out prior to R&R ing the cooler.
Fleet owners seem to have good success if they are dilegent on service.
If you own one- change the oil earlier than recommended(half the interval and use Penstin or XClean oil). NEVER fill it past half way..Best to be toward add-especially on the adblue cars. Remember these engines are putting the bypass contaminates into the oil. Keep clean a/f in the engine and clean out the bat wing monitor oil quantity in the wing. If it changes look hard at replacing the oil seperator. You place the swirl valve actuator which fail from clogged intake manifold.
DPF adds complications, but doesn't really make a difference- they are cleanable instead of spending $4k on a new one.
I cannot imagine working on one of these with any hint of NE rust. WOW, I'm not sure how I'd get at the DPF clamp to get the down pipe off.. or the turbo . This horrible choice seems to only afflict 2012-14 models. Perhaps it was the fragile flex joint or the difficultly placed clamp lead to a design change.
I think your gas saving will be very small compared to repairs when it needs it.
A tech told me he wish MB would take them all back and crush them!
The integrated batwing assembly for the MAS sensor ($$) is only the beginning. There have been parts changes through the years, like the oil cooler orings which have been changed 2-3 times. Rear seal which was redesigned due to leaking problems and the oil separator has been redesigned a few times or at least the part number rolled. The low friction chain setup is seems ppl are reporting replacements at less than 100k.. Inquiring on the oil cooler orings- I was informed they had at least 3 in for that repair nearly at all times(~15 hr job+ count on 4-6 hrs on cleaning manifold, EGR, and mixer). Add that these seals go into the main oil galley connection- so getting any dirt into them and you run potential of eating main bearings. So, if you go in here... clean well and get all the sand/dirt/oil muck out prior to R&R ing the cooler.
Fleet owners seem to have good success if they are dilegent on service.
If you own one- change the oil earlier than recommended(half the interval and use Penstin or XClean oil). NEVER fill it past half way..Best to be toward add-especially on the adblue cars. Remember these engines are putting the bypass contaminates into the oil. Keep clean a/f in the engine and clean out the bat wing monitor oil quantity in the wing. If it changes look hard at replacing the oil seperator. You place the swirl valve actuator which fail from clogged intake manifold.
DPF adds complications, but doesn't really make a difference- they are cleanable instead of spending $4k on a new one.
I cannot imagine working on one of these with any hint of NE rust. WOW, I'm not sure how I'd get at the DPF clamp to get the down pipe off.. or the turbo . This horrible choice seems to only afflict 2012-14 models. Perhaps it was the fragile flex joint or the difficultly placed clamp lead to a design change.
I think your gas saving will be very small compared to repairs when it needs it.
A tech told me he wish MB would take them all back and crush them!
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cartempest seems to be a pull from multiple sites? Anyone use it?
Yes yes, check daily as the good ones go fast. Too many hail damage repaired or collision ones to swift through. Looks like all the cars I've seen- the seats seem to hold up really well.
Test drove the 550, it has great power- but it lacks the nimblness that the 350 had with sport suspension.
Yes yes, check daily as the good ones go fast. Too many hail damage repaired or collision ones to swift through. Looks like all the cars I've seen- the seats seem to hold up really well.
Test drove the 550, it has great power- but it lacks the nimblness that the 350 had with sport suspension.
I found the old FS thread from back in 2014 when I sold the W211. The interior looked like new after nearly nine years and 75K miles. The Ash MBTex is indestructible.
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-vehicles/548699-fs-2006-mercedes-e320-cdi-diesel-low-miles.html
And yes, the OM648s do fetch amazing $$.
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-vehicles/548699-fs-2006-mercedes-e320-cdi-diesel-low-miles.html
And yes, the OM648s do fetch amazing $$.
Found our 04 E500 Capri Blue on AutoTrader 2 years ago with only 47K miles, just turned 50K a couple of weeks ago. I paid around $1000 to ship it to NY from CA, worth every penny for the always garaged and completely rust free car. As much as we both love this 211, our 124's are for everyday use, and I always look forward to driving one of them.
The paint code list and the EPC data card doesn't call it Capri blue though even though the window sticker does, the paint code list calls it Tanzanite Blue, (359).
I like the M113 500 motor, actually looked for a 500 and passed by the 6's. Have the same motor in our two 129's as well, smooth, reliable. nothing breaks so far.
I agree with the above recomendations, I looked on AutoTrader, CarGuro, Cars.com, and Tempest almost everyday for quite a while before ours popped up. The good ones don't usually hang around long, an advantage to be one of the first callers. Good Luck
Attachments
Is that a confirmed fact? I’m terrified of the M273/2. I’d rather go with the M113 and accept less hp and the dreaded SBC.
I’d be very happy if they really fixed the later engines!
Yes, it's fact. You can look at post number 3 where GSXR posted a PDF of the bulletin with the cut off dates and engine numbers. Don't just look at the page title, you have to read the whole thing because there are some other topics on it, as well.
Klink,
So with the 6's I'm reading the balance shaft issue went through engine serial number 30-468993? If I'm buying a car- I need to run the vin through the dealership to see if the balance shaft was done? What type of mileage do you see these issues? Would most of these be addressed in the original 50k warranty or CPO?
So with the 6's I'm reading the balance shaft issue went through engine serial number 30-468993? If I'm buying a car- I need to run the vin through the dealership to see if the balance shaft was done? What type of mileage do you see these issues? Would most of these be addressed in the original 50k warranty or CPO?
Pull the datacard and check the engine serial number. If it's before the cutoff, yeah, you'd want documentation that it was done, OR just be prepared for a mondo DIY job in the future.
Well that turned out to be easy! Found a car in Houston- talked to the owner, ran the carfax. Honest car ~98,000 miles. Dealer maintained and he said they always did what was suggested.
I think it's metalliccardioal Carneol / Barolo Red paint (code 544) and cream (135) interior. My friend looked at it today and its good. He was a local and familar with the flooding areas.
He was surprised by the power.. Diesel... which is unexpected.OM613 OM648. Windshield has a crack, but that's about it. Any MB which isn't white/black or silver are uncommon here in Texas.
Michael
I think it's metallic
He was surprised by the power.. Diesel... which is unexpected.
Michael
Congrats on finding a car. And coming to your senses on the I6 diesel.
The sensation of the torque from that mill is so dreamy. It isn't extraordinarily quick, but it feels so damn effortless.
It looks like the reds from MY05/06 were Bordeaux, Barolo and Mystic Red Pearl. All 3 are nicely muted and well-suited to the W211 shape, IMO.
Congrats on the new ride!
Aside from the SBC, is there anything else to look for in these cars - also specific to the wagon? I'm considering retiring the 124 for the 211 - maybe the 212. Thoughts?
Yes, hijacked...
Aside from the SBC, is there anything else to look for in these cars - also specific to the wagon? I'm considering retiring the 124 for the 211 - maybe the 212. Thoughts?
Yes, hijacked...
Just FYI on the wagons... the 211 wagon third row seat only fits children or very short adults. That killed our plans to move up to a 2004-2006 E500 4Matic wagon. I would assume the 212 has the same issue but we've never sat in one to find out.
The S124 can fit full-size adults in the third row.
EDIT - I just got to sit in the 3rd row of an S210 a couple days ago. The S210 third row has less headroom than the S124, but more than the S211. Each newer wagon has less headroom, unfortunately.
The S124 can fit full-size adults in the third row.
EDIT - I just got to sit in the 3rd row of an S210 a couple days ago. The S210 third row has less headroom than the S124, but more than the S211. Each newer wagon has less headroom, unfortunately.
Bonus is the om648 can use 229.5 oils- so I can run the same thing that the old 500e runs. One less variation at home-maybe I can get a barrel like Jono=0) Checked at lunch and the fuel filter is 1/3 the cost! Air is way cheaper.. Oil and cabin ~ about the same.
Just got around to some service. Car needed motor mounts badly.
Fuel filter/Oil service done. Now all that is left is Trans service, diff, and brake flush. Suspension is tighter than I thought as the ball joints are pretty weak in W211s.
Runs super smooth. Weaknesses? I think that the waterbased painted cars are more susceptible to rust, ball joints, and the fuel tank pumps are known to die without a lot of warning. I think the SBC was pretty well sorted by 2006, but expect to replace it at some point. Current list is less than the 500e ETA.
Fuel filter/Oil service done. Now all that is left is Trans service, diff, and brake flush. Suspension is tighter than I thought as the ball joints are pretty weak in W211s.
Runs super smooth. Weaknesses? I think that the waterbased painted cars are more susceptible to rust, ball joints, and the fuel tank pumps are known to die without a lot of warning. I think the SBC was pretty well sorted by 2006, but expect to replace it at some point. Current list is less than the 500e ETA.
Very nice.
Motor mounts are definitely in the "consumable" category. lol
We also replaced some boots in the rear end at a seemingly early age. Dealer charged and arm and leg for that, IIRC.
I do recall having some fun with all the fasteners on the air filter. That's another item the dealer wants some precious coin to service.
Motor mounts are definitely in the "consumable" category. lol
We also replaced some boots in the rear end at a seemingly early age. Dealer charged and arm and leg for that, IIRC.
I do recall having some fun with all the fasteners on the air filter. That's another item the dealer wants some precious coin to service.
I am appalled at the short lifespan of OE ball joints on the 211 (both upper and lower). The manufacturer of the OE/dealer BJ's is CFW, btw. I'd recommend checking all four BJ's at every oil change on any 211 chassis. Thankfully the BJ's are not expensive, but the lower BJ is a moderate PITA to replace and requires a C-shaped press (<$100 for the Chinese kit off eBay). Late 211's have a bolt-in upper BJ which is a breeze to replace; I'm not sure what procedure is required for early 211 without the bolt-in upper BJ.
WARNING: The 211 chassis can have ball joints with dangerous amounts of play, with NO symptoms whatsoever... no squeak, no clunk, no rattle, no steering or handling issues, no instability at 130mph, nothing. Check the lower BJ by raising the car and pushing up on the wheel/tire by hand, as shown in this video on a 210 chassis. The upper BJ is checked by removing the wheel/tire and squeezing the joint by hand (video link below).
The video below is not quite Klink/Jono approved, but it does give you a good idea what is involved with replacing the lower BJ's and the forward suspension arm (named "strut arm" , "strut rod", "torque strut", or "radius rod" depending on which factory documentation you read in EPC/WIS). The torque strut has been updated with a new design bushing, if the car has the old/original style, it should be replaced with the new version (plus 4 new protective rubber boots, p/n 211-333-06-97, which are to be retrofitted per WIS document ar33.15-p-0160-03t when this suspension arm is replaced). See video below.
All these parts are very reasonably priced, IMO when buying a 211 if there is no record of the suspension parts being recently replaced, it's worth doing everything as preventive maintenance. Total cost for 4 BJ's, 2 torque struts, 4 torque strut rubber boots, all 4 steering tie rods, and new steering rack boots is under $500 total for Lemforder items (plus alignment).
[video=youtube;t4I3sivBCX0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4I3sivBCX0[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4I3sivBCX0
[video=youtube_share;vAy6UZSmI1s]https://youtu.be/vAy6UZSmI1s[/video]
https://youtu.be/vAy6UZSmI1s
[video=youtube;cSeUqWYhzug]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSeUqWYhzug[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSeUqWYhzug
WARNING: The 211 chassis can have ball joints with dangerous amounts of play, with NO symptoms whatsoever... no squeak, no clunk, no rattle, no steering or handling issues, no instability at 130mph, nothing. Check the lower BJ by raising the car and pushing up on the wheel/tire by hand, as shown in this video on a 210 chassis. The upper BJ is checked by removing the wheel/tire and squeezing the joint by hand (video link below).
The video below is not quite Klink/Jono approved, but it does give you a good idea what is involved with replacing the lower BJ's and the forward suspension arm (named "strut arm" , "strut rod", "torque strut", or "radius rod" depending on which factory documentation you read in EPC/WIS). The torque strut has been updated with a new design bushing, if the car has the old/original style, it should be replaced with the new version (plus 4 new protective rubber boots, p/n 211-333-06-97, which are to be retrofitted per WIS document ar33.15-p-0160-03t when this suspension arm is replaced). See video below.
All these parts are very reasonably priced, IMO when buying a 211 if there is no record of the suspension parts being recently replaced, it's worth doing everything as preventive maintenance. Total cost for 4 BJ's, 2 torque struts, 4 torque strut rubber boots, all 4 steering tie rods, and new steering rack boots is under $500 total for Lemforder items (plus alignment).
[video=youtube;t4I3sivBCX0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4I3sivBCX0[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4I3sivBCX0
[video=youtube_share;vAy6UZSmI1s]https://youtu.be/vAy6UZSmI1s[/video]
https://youtu.be/vAy6UZSmI1s
[video=youtube;cSeUqWYhzug]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSeUqWYhzug[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSeUqWYhzug
Excellent idea, Michael. I did not apply any grease to the threads of the Chinese ball joint C-clamp tool, but I expect you are correct - that may have reduced the force required. Next time!
