M119 Rear Crank Oil Seal replacement

[JC220]

On reading the FSM for rear crank radial seal replacement it advises to not remove the rear crank cover plate. Normally this is what I do on m104's etc. I remove the plate, clean off all old gasket material, pry out the old seal and press the new one home before re-fitting with new sealant.

So.….. should I pry out the old oil seal and tap a new one home without pulling the cover?

http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/03-3270.pdf

Note I do not have the special MB oil seal press tool for the rear of the crank. (I have the MB tool for front crank oil seal though)

 

[gsxr]

This thread may help:

rear engine cover / rear main seal INSTALLED - THANK YOU JONO | M119 Engine

Some of you know I had a slight oil leak from the rear of the engine. I pulled the transmission yesterday morning (not a nightmare as I thought it might be). About 3 hours. Anyhow, Yesterday, I removed the rear engine case to clean up the sealing surfaces in preparation of reinstalling...

www.500eboard.co

Since you have the engine out of the car, and have better access to everything, I'd pull the rear plate. This will allow you to re-seal the cover to the block, AND also use a press to get the seal in the carrier perfectly flat. It would not be easy to get the new seal in place without the tool otherwise. The OE (Bruss) seal is a very, very tight fit. As Doug noted in the above thread, he was able to install the carrier first, then tap the new seal into place separately, without the OE tool.

Also note the FSM has an error, it says to use RTV silicone between the plate & block, and anaerobic at the bottom against the oil pan fiber gasket. This is backwards. And, I'd probably use the black MB sealant on all surfaces for this particular job. Link to FSM job for the rear cover plate:

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/01-2220.pdf

 

[JC220]

This thread may help:

rear engine cover / rear main seal INSTALLED - THANK YOU JONO | M119 Engine

Some of you know I had a slight oil leak from the rear of the engine. I pulled the transmission yesterday morning (not a nightmare as I thought it might be). About 3 hours. Anyhow, Yesterday, I removed the rear engine case to clean up the sealing surfaces in preparation of reinstalling...

www.500eboard.co

Since you have the engine out of the car, and have better access to everything, I'd pull the rear plate. This will allow you to re-seal the cover to the block, AND also use a press to get the seal in the carrier perfectly flat. It would not be easy to get the new seal in place without the tool otherwise. The OE (Bruss) seal is a very, very tight fit.

Also note the FSM has an error, it says to use RTV silicone between the plate & block, and anaerobic at the bottom against the oil pan fiber gasket. This is backwards. And, I'd probably use the black MB sealant on all surfaces for this particular job. Link to FSM job for the rear cover plate:

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/01-2220.pdf

Thanks for that Dave. I did search the forum, found no threads and seen that one below after I posted this new thread.

I will follow your advice and pull the rear cover.

I only have Elring Dirco HT sealant on hand at the moment. Will I be banned from the board if I use it for this task to let me away? (And not wait on my dealer to get the MB sealant in)

 

[Eno]

If I am not mistaken the bottom part nr in that housing to the large oil pan uses MB OEM sealant for the rear crank seal cover uses black sealant that is used with gaskets specifically as per below part nr.
Keep in mind that the shaft has to be smooth/cleaned prior to the new rear seal installation.
Regarding the rear plate to rear engine housing I used anaerobic sealant, metal to metal.

 

[JC220]

Great stuff Eno thankyou very much for the pics and info. I do have the anaerobic sealant already on hand.

And my dealer advised they do have 003.989.98.20.10 in stock so I will pick up a tube tomorrow.

My sump pans are off and will be cleaned and fitted with new gaskets.

 

[gerryvz]

That unfurling really makes the URLs look nice when pasted into the thread!