Yes, it has an electric clutch that turns it on/off just like the AC compressor. Normally it runs for a couple minutes after a cold start to heat the catalysts faster, but it can engage randomly on a warm engine to reduce emissions as well. If the pump is starting to go bad, they can get rather noisy. Good ones are very quiet. Most of the time the engine is running, the pump does not run.
.gif "OMG :omg:")
That's the same method I use! For the final wipe I'll spray the paper towel with carb/brake cleaner.
Nope. Gerry converted me to the good red-can stuff that's illegal in CA. Available here if you don't have a local vendor that carries it (and no, they won't ship to CA).
That's the same method I use! For the final wipe I'll spray the paper towel with carb/brake cleaner.
The oil may or may not be coming from the valve cover gasket/seal, it COULD have come up past the spark plug threads on the loose plugs. If you don't see any evidence of oil leaking from the seal at the top by the v/c, it may be coming past the threads.
I realized I was out of brake cleaner AFTER I already had everything apart and pulled the first plug. I wasn't expecting all the oil.
Wooops, I missed #117 when scrolling back up the thread.
Redline 10w40 is good stuff, I run that in all my M119's. If the pressure sender is old / original, that may cure the low pressure reading at idle.
Would be great to see some more photos of the car's new stance with the stock wheels, Mike
Cutting additional vent slots in the new caps (details here) should help keep the misfire from returning... but, also must eliminate oil leaks from the intake cam solenoids as well.
Noooo! Sorry to hear that. Make sure to list the car in the classified section here, you're more likely to get serious buyers than the usual Facebook muppets.
Oh nuts. Is the problem the ignition lock tumbler, or the lock mechanism that the tumbler goes into? The tumbler is still available new, VIN coded, from the dealer. But the lock mechanism assembly went NLA and you're stuck messing with used ones if needed.
It seems like the steering wheel lock mechanism is keeping it from turning. You know when you turn the ignition off and you can't turn the ignition back to on unless you remove the key first? It almost feels like that. It only seems like it wants to turn to position 1 but only turns about 1/4" and I can hear the steering lock mechanism inside snapping back slightly when I pull the key out. I'm wondering if I were to somehow remove the lock mechanism from the column and press the steering lock all the way in with my hand would it turn then?
Nice, great combo!
Hello Guest !
We wanted to let you know about a new resource that is now available to all 500Eboard members. This is a comprehensive database of all US-market (and soon to include Canadian-market) 500E and E500 models delivered for the 1992 through 1994 model years.
Data for this resource has been compiled continuously since mid-2003, and much of this information is seeing the light of day for the very first time ever. This new resource will allow you to utilize 500Eboard research and resources to track specific cars, their sale history, documented modifications, and other information that has surfaced over the years.
We are also providing analytics about the cars' production. This means that if you are curious as to how many "Signal Red" cars were produced for the US market with a black interior, specifically in Model Year 1993, you can now easily find this information. You can also find aggregated information -- for example, how many "Black Pearl" cars were imported into the US over the three-year span.
You can always find and enjoy this resource by clicking here (bookmark the site for easy reference!), or by going to the “500Eboard Registry and VIN Database” sub-forum below. You can also find a VIN Database button at the top of your screen, for easy access.
We hope you enjoy this resource. A LOT of blood, sweat and tears over nearly 23 years have gone into its creation.
Cheers,
500Eboard Management
