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FOR SALE Multiple door locks for sale; also rekey service

bclifton

124.133
Member
Hi folks,

This is a "while supplies last" situation. I have the following:
  • two sets of keyed locks for 1990+ W124 with alarm system (option code 551)
  • one set of keyed locks for 1990+ W124 (no alarm)

PXL_20250217_070314576.jpgPXL_20250217_070323428.MP.jpgPXL_20250217_070356598.MP.jpg

I'd like to sell each pair (one left lock and one right lock) for $250. Here's how it works:
  • Send me a DM; we can arrange things. You'll need to send me a key
  • I get the key and will use my rekey kit to make a matching lock for your key with new tumblers
  • I'll send the keyed locks to you with your key

I can also do the following for you (while I have tumblers):
  • You can send me your lock(s) and I can put brand new tumblers in it - making it "good as new". $50 each and I'd need a key
  • You can send your own random lock to me (ex: if you got one on eBay or junkyard) and I can pick it / rekey it to match a key you send $75 each

Shipping not included in these estimates. USPS is fairly cheap though
 
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For the ignition, it's better if you buy the part from Mercedes as it's still available. It should be part number 126-460-02-04 (comes with one key).

I have experimented and have taken apart ignition cylinder and rekeyed. There's a small part that needs to be drilled out near the face/keyway and I have replacement drift pins. So if you're not able to get a part from Mercedes-Benz (ex: you're supposed to show proof of ownership), I can always help. I only have a small number of ignition cylinders. A workshop one with a generic key (what I could rekey) is about $100 USD.
 
Here in Germany we Knows this "Diebstahl relevantes Bauteil" This Parts you can ordered bei Benz but you need Passport /Titel of the car for take this order.Butyou became this not into your hands.This must be built in fron your local Dealership. thats all
That was the reason of m Question
 
There are some great tools available for key cutting. Specifically, there's a machine called the Dolphin II Xhorse XP-005L which can cut 4 track Mercedes-Benz keys (cost is roughly ~$2,000 USD). Our W124 (and the W126) use a 4 track key. If you lay the key down flat, there's a left and a right. Those are two tracks. Then if you flip the key over, there are a different set of two tracks on the back. This is called HU-39.
1739910262739.png


W123 and older use a 2 track where each side of the key is identical but there's only two sides. This is HU-36.
1739910363370.png


Really old ones just use a single track. This is similar to most keys people have for locks at their house.
1739910418333.png


Like Pierre mentioned in the video, there's a key ID or profile needed to cut the key. I didn't know that Mercedes-Benz would release this information for your own vehicle if you asked, but that is cool. Usually, an authorized locksmith would have access to a database where they can look up the key ID using the VIN. The locksmith (or Mercedes-Benz when making a copy) are supposed to verify the ownership, as @Markus-MD said. There's no relationship between the VIN and the key ID -you can't guess a key ID given a VIN or vice versa.

Without a key ID, you can use a lock pick to test various locks in the car - testing various parts of each track. You can create your own profile and have the machine cut it for you. This is why having a lock (from the door or the glovebox, etc) is an effective way if you don't have access the the controlled database.
 
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Yes, those are called by MB dealers "Theft-Relevant Parts" or TRPs. You have to show either the vehicle's title, or registration, to a dealer in order to order such a part. On newer cars, there are even more TRPs in a single vehicle, beyond the keys and locks themselves.

I haven't watched @Cousin_Pierre's video yet, but dollars to donuts he omitted talking about the key style for the Grand 600 (W100) models, which uses a "dimpled" two-sided type of key. The only other use I've seen for these keys are European door locks, for example in some hotels and residential door locks.

A Grand 600 (W100) key looks a bit like this (this is NOT a Grand 600 key):
Screenshot 2025-02-18 at 4.46.22 PM.jpg

And, another example of a dimpled "European" key style.
Dimple Key.jpeg

MB used the one-sided keys up until the mid to late 1960s, and these are commonly found with the 190SLs and Pagodas.

By the time they introduced the W108, they used a two-sided (HU-36) key per above.

In the 1980s and very early 1990s, for example with the early 126 and perhaps 201 models, MB used a very skinny two-sided (HU-39) key, and then went to the wider two-sided HU-39 design by the mid-1980s. That wider HU-39 design is what we are used to with our E500E cars.
 
Thanks @bclifton and @gerryvz for filling in quite a few of the blanks in Pierre’s video.

Why he couldn’t add a few stills to display the types of keys he was referring to was frustrating.
Also, zero mention of the key disaster for the 1990's models with IRCL flip-keys with DAS, affecting the 129, 140, 210, and probably others. THAT is a real problem.

"What to do when your [pre-1990] MB needs a key" is a non-issue. Buy from the dealer, if NLA get a competent locksmith. Steel keys, or brass copies of the HU-39, are not that difficult to obtain.

:wormhole:
 
Also, zero mention of the key disaster for the 1990's models with IRCL flip-keys with DAS, affecting the 129, 140, 210, and probably others. THAT is a real problem.

"What to do when your [pre-1990] MB needs a key" is a non-issue. Buy from the dealer, if NLA get a competent locksmith. Steel keys, or brass copies of the HU-39, are not that difficult to obtain.
100% - I frequent a number of R129 FB groups and if I had a $ for every “Where can I get a key from?” post I’d be richer than Trump and Musk combined…
 
Yes, those are called by MB dealers "Theft-Relevant Parts" or TRPs. You have to show either the vehicle's title, or registration, to a dealer in order to order such a part. On newer cars, there are even more TRPs in a single vehicle, beyond the keys and locks themselves.

I haven't watched @Cousin_Pierre's video yet, but dollars to donuts he omitted talking about the key style for the Grand 600 (W100) models, which uses a "dimpled" two-sided type of key. The only other use I've seen for these keys are European door locks, for example in some hotels and residential door locks.

A Grand 600 (W100) key looks a bit like this (this is NOT a Grand 600 key):
View attachment 208874

And, another example of a dimpled "European" key style.
View attachment 208875

MB used the one-sided keys up until the mid to late 1960s, and these are commonly found with the 190SLs and Pagodas.

By the time they introduced the W108, they used a two-sided (HU-36) key per above.

In the 1980s and very early 1990s, for example with the early 126 and perhaps 201 models, MB used a very skinny two-sided (HU-39) key, and then went to the wider two-sided HU-39 design by the mid-1980s. That wider HU-39 design is what we are used to with our E500E cars.
I did listen this morning to Cousin Pierre's video.

To his credit, toward the end of the video he DID mention the Grand 600 "dimpled" key type, saying it was only on the Grand 600 for a couple of years, as well as a W111/112 model as an option, but that he'd only seen it one time?

I think it was on the Grand 600 for more than 1-2 years. But, kudos to him for mentioning it.

Otherwise, he mentioned mostly what @bclifton and myself talked about in our posts. No mention of the 140/210/163/129 IRCL keys of the first through third generation, though. Because those "modern" vehicles don't take up much space in CP's head.....
 
I did listen this morning to Cousin Pierre's video.

To his credit, toward the end of the video he DID mention the Grand 600 "dimpled" key type, saying it was only on the Grand 600 for a couple of years, as well as a W111/112 model as an option, but that he'd only seen it one time?

I think it was on the Grand 600 for more than 1-2 years. But, kudos to him for mentioning it.

Otherwise, he mentioned mostly what @bclifton and myself talked about in our posts. No mention of the 140/210/163/129 IRCL keys of the first through third generation, though. Because those "modern" vehicles don't take up much space in CP's head.....
I do wish PH (or CP if you prefer) would define what he himself believes is a “Classic Mercedes” because it’s very much open to interpretation.
 
I do wish PH (or CP if you prefer) would define what he himself believes is a “Classic Mercedes” because it’s very much open to interpretation.
Anything that is 1991 or earlier (last year of the 126) would be a classic Mercedes in his mind. 1989 in the case of the R107.

The sweet spot, of course, is the W111/112 "Finnie" generation (begun in 1959) through the end of the W123, in 1985.
 
@bclifton have you ever removed a key tumbler and replaced it in a door handle? Obviously you need to remove the door handle, but then remove the actual tumbler from the door handle and replace with another tumbler? Specifically for W126 sedan/coupe.

I thought I saw this procedure in a FSM
 
@AMG5PT4 I have experience taking the cylinder out of, rekeying, and put these back together
  • W124 door handle lock
  • W124 trunk lock
  • W124 and 1990/1991 W126 ignition
  • center console storage box lock for W124 and W126

I've also found you can retrofit a W124 ignition (124-462-35-30) into a W126 for the W126 which have the older screw cap ignition (mine was 126-462-07-30 with the screw cap 116-462-00-23). That's a great solution when you need a new ignition in a W126- because then you can have MBUSA make a new ignition cylinder for you w/ key (126-460-02-04).

I have taken apart the following:
  • W126 SEDAN door handle lock
  • W126 trunk lock
  • W126 screw type (1979 - 1989) ignition
  • Glove box for W124 and W126

I know I can put these back together but I haven't tried yet. The only one I haven't tried is W126 coupe as those are a bit different. But very similar to the sedan. There's always a puzzle to putting them back together - like finding the right drift pin / spring pin / e-clip.

AFAIK (as far as I know), there is nothing in MB North America FSM, but I have seen German Daimler-Benz manuals in my locksmith journey (for W116 days). I would be very interested if there was any official documentation (preferably in English lol).

@AMG5PT4 believe it or not, the keyed W126 SEDAN door locks are still in stock. I got one a few months ago. I would just buy one from MBUSA - I got the drivers one for ~$120 USD. Part number 126-760-83-59 for LEFT one. Right one I don't know the part number offhand, but it's a little more expensive. Coupe ones are likely long NLA- but worth a look too.
 
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Reason I ask is I have two sets of NOS SEC door handles that I bought off eBay with no keys in case I need parts for my widebody restoration. I also have a parts car with all the locks present, but the door handles are in bad shape. Wondering if I could transfer the tumblers from the parts car door handles to the NOS door handles and then remove all the other tumblers to make a set.
 
Reason I ask is I have two sets of NOS SEC door handles that I bought off eBay with no keys in case I need parts for my widebody restoration. I also have a parts car with all the locks present, but the door handles are in bad shape. Wondering if I could transfer the tumblers from the parts car door handles to the NOS door handles and then remove all the other tumblers to make a set.
Ah - yeah I could definitely help you figure this one out. Shoot me a DM anytime 🙂

It would be good to test it on a bad condition part first, just to get the procedure down. In your case, you have a parts car which is awesome.

There's always going to be a retainer on the back of the cylinder. That's the first part in solving - removing that. The W124 is very easy. There's a drift pin you can push out with a small punch. That pin attaches the rod/spring at the end to the cylinder. The W126 has this too- but I think you also need to drill some drift pins out also. If you end up drilling you can always tap and use a grub screw OR (for smaller areas) replace with another drift pin / spring pin (whatever the name is).

Then you can pick the lock (if you don't have a key) and turn to push the cylinder out. With the cylinder removed, finding the matching tumblers for a given key is a piece of cake. I use gleitpaste on the tumbler wafers and put nice and clean springs.
 
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hi, currently my 1995 W124 uses a infrared key system. i have 2 different keys, had to change the ignition key. would like to check if its possible if i send you the current ignition key to match it with the different door and boot tumblers.

Basically to rekey the left door and boot tumbler to match the ignition.

Looking forward to your reply!
 
hi, currently my 1995 W124 uses a infrared key system. i have 2 different keys, had to change the ignition key. would like to check if its possible if i send you the current ignition key to match it with the different door and boot tumblers.

Basically to rekey the left door and boot tumbler to match the ignition.
Why not buy a new VIN-coded ignition tumbler from the dealer, which should match the doors? Backing up a bit, why did you not buy a VIN-coded ignition tumbler?

:scratchchin:
 
Why not buy a new VIN-coded ignition tumbler from the dealer, which should match the doors? Backing up a bit, why did you not buy a VIN-coded ignition tumbler?

:scratchchin:
was done by the previous owner! also not too sure if am able to order from the dealer as well.
 
@ron1313 as long as you have the vehicle registration and an ID which matches, you should be able to order it. When you visit a dealership, you can ask the service advisor to write you up for part number 126-460-02-04.

Before you do that though, maybe take a picture of your keyway (where you put the key in) and example of how the ignition key looks and share here. There should be two small holes in the keyway for the special tool which removes the cylinder.

It's definitely possible to fit other ignitions (ex: W123) into a W124 and they will technically fit.

But hopefully you have W124 ignition and you can just order the above part number from dealer 🙂 I got the special tool from Baum tools for very cheap (this is a picture for kit 900-0059K) and you can remove the cylinder without taking apart anything.
1745998365084.png
 
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@ron1313 as long as you have the vehicle registration and an ID which matches, you should be able to order it. When you visit a dealership, you can ask the service advisor to write you up for part number 126-460-02-04.

Before you do that though, maybe take a picture of your keyway (where you put the key in) and example of how the ignition key looks and share here. There should be two small holes in the keyway for the special tool which removes the cylinder.

It's definitely possible to fit other ignitions (ex: W123) into a W124 and they will technically fit.

But hopefully you have W124 ignition and you can just order the above part number from dealer 🙂 I got the special tool from Baum tools for very cheap (this is a picture for kit 900-0059K) and you can remove the cylinder without taking apart anything.
View attachment 213144
@bclifton Thank you for the guidance, will check in with the dealership first.

please view the picture haha
 

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@ron1313 as long as you have the vehicle registration and an ID which matches, you should be able to order it. When you visit a dealership, you can ask the service advisor to write you up for part number 126-460-02-04.

Before you do that though, maybe take a picture of your keyway (where you put the key in) and example of how the ignition key looks and share here. There should be two small holes in the keyway for the special tool which removes the cylinder.

It's definitely possible to fit other ignitions (ex: W123) into a W124 and they will technically fit.

But hopefully you have W124 ignition and you can just order the above part number from dealer 🙂 I got the special tool from Baum tools for very cheap (this is a picture for kit 900-0059K) and you can remove the cylinder without taking apart anything.
View attachment 213144
Thanks for posting, Brian!
Is that key lock tool KIT something you recommend keeping around?
 
Thanks for posting, Brian!
Is that key lock tool KIT something you recommend keeping around?
It definitely can't hurt to have more tools! 🙂

For me, I make great use of all of the tools in that Baum coolkit. Taking clusters out, taking apart ignition at the junkyard, etc.

Purely from an owner standpoint- I've only needed the tool for taking the ignition cylinder out. You can make your own with a cost hanger and diagonal cutters - but I prefer the real tool. I have replaced all the locks in my car either with new, NOS, or I rebuilt them. So the key glides right in/out on all locks.The wafer inserts absolutely wear down over time
 
@bclifton Thank you for the guidance, will check in with the dealership first.

please view the picture haha
This looks to be the updated style- you should absolutely be able to use the tool to pull that lock cylinder out with key in position 2. Tool goes into both holes at the same time which releases the black cap around the ignition cylinder. Then you can replace with the VIN coded replacement part 126-460-02-04

The new ignition cylinder comes with a new key too- roughly $100 USD.
 
This looks to be the updated style- you should absolutely be able to use the tool to pull that lock cylinder out with key in position 2. Tool goes into both holes at the same time which releases the black cap around the ignition cylinder. Then you can replace with the VIN coded replacement part 126-460-02-04

The new ignition cylinder comes with a new key too- roughly $100 USD.
hi @bclifton, my local dealership just got back to me and here was their reply:

“Please be advised that our parts team has done a check in our system, and as the vehicle is nearly 30 years old, unfortunately, the part number 126-460-02-04 is no longer available in stock from us or the factory, as it is no longer in production.”

any idea how we can go forward from here?
 
hi @bclifton, my local dealership just got back to me and here was their reply:

“Please be advised that our parts team has done a check in our system, and as the vehicle is nearly 30 years old, unfortunately, the part number 126-460-02-04 is no longer available in stock from us or the factory, as it is no longer in production.”

any idea how we can go forward from here?
Oh wow - maybe this part number is only good for North America models?

Maybe you can share your VIN and I can try to find the comparable number
 
thanks for the assistance, will PM you my VIN shortly.
Thanks for sharing - Dave is right on the money. It shows as 126-460-02-04 for me too. The VIN shared shows it could be a Europe market or Japan market... I checked both and both were the same (126-460-02-04).

Is there another dealer you can try? Maybe it's only available in America? I do believe that someone actually has to put these together after you order. I think MBUSA supplies them out of Texas. It's possible rest of world doesn't have a supplier 🤔
 

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