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    500Eboard Management

OWNER - Glen (744)

Glen

Site Admin, auto enthusiast...
Staff member
Postby Glen on Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:23 am

I first read a review of the 500E in 1991 and was immediately impressed and knew that one day I would own one. At the time, I lusted after a 190E 2.3-16 but it took me another 5 years before I would buy one of those. And oddly enough, shortly before I found my 16V, I stumbled upon a 5-speed 300E so for almost 6 years I was lucky to own both a rare 300E with a manual and a 5-speed 16V.

Early in 2000, I began looking seriously for a 500E and it took me almost a year and half before I found exactly what I was looking for. The 300E and 16V are both long gone now, replaced by my Brilliant Silver on black '94 500E (E500). After almost 8 years of ownership, I still smile every time the garage door goes up!

Mods:
Debadged
Bergwerks FGS with Sport and Security options
Euro headlight housings with functional levelling control, stock U.S. lenses
Front license tag delete panel
R129 SL strut mounts
1 bump spring pads with stock coils in front
3 bump spring pads with one coil removed from stock rear springs
Speedtek adjustable rear camber arms
W210T aluminum thrust arms (to be installed soon)
Porsche CDR-210/Becker BE-2282 CD head unit
RENNtech Monolite, 1-piece forged wheels; F:18 x 8.5, R: 18 x 9.5


When I first bought the car, it came with chrome plated stock 16" wheels.
76.jpg

I then upgraded to OZ Classe 18 x 8 and 18 x 9 wheels.
77.jpg

Then one day, I found a set of RENNtech Monolites, 18 x 8.5 and 18 x 9.5 8-)
And this is how the car looks now.
78.jpg

79.jpg


Glen Tokuhara
A few cars...

===================================

Postby szvook on Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:58 am

That exterior color was my original choice for the car?. just could not wait for one. Very nice car!

Steve
1992 Pearl Black 500E (build 6/92)

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Postby battlecat714 on Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:54 am

Awesome car Glen, great color choice too!

Jorge
1994|040|W124.036|E500

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Postby T-500 on Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:06 am

I always wondered what wheels you were running - nice! :stormy:

T-500

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Postby Glen on Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:24 pm

Here's a shot of my Porsche CDR-210/Becker BE2282 in-dash CD headunit.
80.jpg

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Postby Glen on Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:38 pm

To gain additional front suspension travel, I installed R129 SL upper strut mounts. If you do this, replace the bump stops and it would be a good idea to cut your old ones down to 1 inch and add them in addition to the new ones. If you don't, on full compression, the tires will contact the upper wheel house.
81.jpg

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Postby need2speed on Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:25 am

Glen wrote:Here's a shot of my Porsche CDR-210/Becker BE2282 in-dash CD headunit.


Name dropper... :yeah: That is a very sanitary installation!

need2speed
500E500 owners motto: "Lead, follow, or better yet, get out of the way."

===================================

Postby Glen on Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:21 am

need2speed wrote:

Glen wrote:Here's a shot of my Porsche CDR-210/Becker BE2282 in-dash CD headunit.


Name dropper... :yeah: That is a very sanitary installation!



Thanks!
It's all plug'n'play. The CDR-210 has the same rear connectors and pin-out as the '94 MB head unit with the exception of the CD changer which has a different connector and pin-out.

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Postby need2speed on Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:19 pm

Was there an available adapter for the CD plug or did you wire your own?

need2speed
500E500 owners motto: "Lead, follow, or better yet, get out of the way."

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Postby Glen on Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:08 pm

No adapter that I know and I didn't connect the CD changer...so no changer for me at the moment.

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Postby gerryvz on Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:09 pm

I purchased an off the shelf iPod adapter cable for the stock 1994 radio that plugs into the CD changer plug on the back. Seamless and works great -- I think the cable was like $30ish. Charges the iPod as well as allowing it to play.

I am sure that same thing is either avaialble or could be easily engineered for the Becker system that Glen has.
Might even want to check with Becker North America to see if they have such a beast -- I'll bet they do. Google Becker of North America and when you call their 800 number ask for Ed Ebel or Jaime Kopchinski.

Cheers,
Gerry

===================================

Postby Glen on Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:26 pm

December 31, 2008
Another beautiful SoCal day!

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Postby gerryvz on Sun Jan 04, 2009 3:56 am

Yes it was 81 degrees here in Houston today and I gave the E500 a bath, which it welcomed. And topped up the windshield washer and antifreeze fluids.

Cheers,
Gerry

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Postby need2speed on Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:34 am

Gerry, looks like you left Portland just in time...the weather really sucks!

need2speed
500E500 owners motto: "Lead, follow, or better yet, get out of the way."

===================================

Postby gerryvz on Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:33 am

Yeah, Portland has definitely been walloped in the past month by more snow than I can ever remember having in the 13 years we lived there. There were a couple of times when we had perhaps 6-8 inches, but not really more than that. I think it was the winter of 2003-2004 that it snowed pretty good and things were socked in for a good week - I worked from home for an entire week because I couldn't get to work.

In Seattle, where I grew up, they seem to have had more than I ever remember too (according to my parents) though I remember a number of years in the 1970s and 1980s where there was perhaps 12-14 inches, but it never lasted for more than a few days.

Believe me, I've not envied being in Portland this winter, one iota. The new owners of our house in PDX e-mailed us photos of the house and yard. Yikes ! :relieved:

Cheers,
Gerry

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Postby Glen on Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:32 am

Finally had some time so I lowered the back to level out the car. Replaced 3-bump spring pads with 1-bump...
1bumpallaround_2.jpg

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Postby need2speed on Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:12 am

Looks tight! I also ended up with 2 bump front and 1 bump rear pads for level.

need2speed
500E500 owners motto: "Lead, follow, or better yet, get out of the way."

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Postby 124036-009 on Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:12 am

Maybe someone could do some writing about those bump pads with pics, part# and measurements in the Wiki?

That would be very nice!

Jack
Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit Mk1 1,6D Aut. '83 220kkm / Mercedes-Benz E500 Limited '94 83kkm

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Postby UberE500 on Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:47 pm

Glen - Did you adjust the SLS linkage?

Your new ride height looks perfect with those wheels!! :rockon:

UberE500

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Postby gsxr on Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:08 pm

124036-009 wrote:Maybe someone could do some writing about those bump pads with pics, part# and measurements in the Wiki?


It's already in the FSM (click here), and the part numbers are in the EPC. I never did understand the fascination with swapping pads around though.

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Postby Glen on Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:13 pm

UberE500 wrote:Glen - Did you adjust the SLS linkage?

Your new ride height looks perfect with those wheels!! :rockon:



Thanks. No, I didn't need to adjust the SLS this time. In the past, I've had the car lower and did have to adjust it but this time, the change in spring pads brought it down just enough.

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Postby Glen on Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:16 pm

gsxr wrote:

124036-009 wrote:Maybe someone could do some writing about those bump pads with pics, part# and measurements in the Wiki?


It's already in the FSM (click here http://www.w124performance.com/service/ ... 0-0300.pdf), and the part numbers are in the EPC. I never did understand the fascination with swapping pads around though.



Swapping spring pads lets you fine tune ride height. It's why MB created the pad system in the first place...to adjust height based on options a particular car has. So, changing pads is an easy way to accomplish minor ride height changes.

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Postby maggot on Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:28 pm

Car looks fantastic.........especially on those Renntech rims. Out of curiosity, can you tell me what the Mercedes logo on the front wing is please ?

maggot

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Postby Glen on Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:04 pm

maggot wrote:Car looks fantastic.........especially on those Renntech rims. Out of curiosity, can you tell me what the Mercedes logo on the front wing is please ?



When I bought my car, it had custom vinyl pin strip with the vinyl Star on the front fenders (wings). I removed the pin stripe but left the Star.
82.jpg


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Postby gsxr on Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:09 pm

Glen wrote:To gain additional front suspension travel, I installed R129 SL upper strut mounts. If you do this, replace the bump stops and it would be a good idea to cut your old ones down to 1 inch and add them in addition to the new ones. If you don't, on full compression, the tires will contact the upper wheel house.


Glen, I don't quite understand the concept behind the R129 strut mounts... could you elaborate?

BTW - I love the Monolites!!

:detective:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.

===================================

Postby Glen on Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:33 pm

gsxr wrote:

Glen wrote:To gain additional front suspension travel, I installed R129 SL upper strut mounts. If you do this, replace the bump stops and it would be a good idea to cut your old ones down to 1 inch and add them in addition to the new ones. If you don't, on full compression, the tires will contact the upper wheel house.


Glen, I don't quite understand the concept behind the R129 strut mounts... could you elaborate?

BTW - I love the Monolites!!

:detective:



It started out as an experiment on my part. The front of my car is about 5/8" lower than stock, accomplished by changing out spring pads. The R129 upper strut mounts secure the strut about an inch higher than W124 mounts. In effect, any travel lost due to lowering is recovered. Plus, in addition to travel, it puts the strut piston closer to the internal spring buffers, ie. closer to stock even though the car is lowered. The caveat is that the added travel can cause the tire to hit the upper wheel house on full compression.

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Postby gsxr on Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:19 pm

Glen wrote:It started out as an experiment on my part. The front of my car is about 5/8" lower than stock, accomplished by changing out spring pads. The R129 upper strut mounts secure the strut about an inch higher than W124 mounts. In effect, any travel lost due to lowering is recovered. Plus, in addition to travel, it puts the strut piston closer to the internal spring buffers, ie. closer to stock even though the car is lowered. The caveat is that the added travel can cause the tire to hit the upper wheel house on full compression.


OK - I sort of understand now. Interesting concept! Basically it's a way to try and compensate for lowering the car, while still retaining some of the performance of the internal rebound springs (since the functionality is reduced when the car is lowered with stock 500E struts). This also will limit the wheel extension, at full droop/sag the wheel will not be as far away from the fender.

As you mentioned, the strut shaft stop buffer will need to be effectively lengthened, to prevent the tire rubbing things it shouldn't when fully compressed. The AMG strut spacer (http://www.w124performance.com/images/W ... miter1.jpg)would be the ideal method (it adds 20mm). You can also use the stop buffer from early AMG cars (p/n 129-323-06-44), which is as firm as the 500E stop buffer, but 5mm longer. Click here (http://www.w124performance.com/images/W ... strut4.jpg) to see what I mean, the photo shows the 75mm "medium" firmness buffer, I would use the 75mm "hard" buffer. The standard 500E buffer is 70mm and "hard" firmness. (FYI, there are soft, medium, and hard variations in a total of 4 different lengths. I have this data in a spreadsheet, and I got one each of the 6 different buffers, I just need to take a photo and add it to my website!)


:detective:

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Postby Glen on Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:25 pm

Thanks for the part number for those AMG buffers!

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Postby need2speed on Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:37 pm

Glen wrote:Swapping spring pads lets you fine tune ride height. It's why MB created the pad system in the first place...to adjust height based on options a particular car has.



I read ??somewhere?? that the pads allowed the factory to adjust to minimum headlight height requirements which, as you suggest, changes with vehicle weight/options.
need2speed
500E500 owners motto: "Lead, follow, or better yet, get out of the way."

User avatar
need2speed

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Postby Lexluther on Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:41 pm

Glen wrote:To gain additional front suspension travel, I installed R129 SL upper strut mounts. If you do this, replace the bump stops and it would be a good idea to cut your old ones down to 1 inch and add them in addition to the new ones. If you don't, on full compression, the tires will contact the upper wheel house.




Hi Glen got a question: If you replace the strut mounts with R129 you gain suspension travel but if you bottom out and have to add an additional 1" bump stop doesn't this negate any gains you may have?

Lexluther

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Postby Glen on Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:51 pm

Yes and no. Our bump stops are made of micro cellular urethane and engineered to provide a progressive squish upon compression. So, there is extra travel in the suspension but as you point out, some of it is limited by the extra bump stop material.

On the other hand, there is another benefit to using the R129 mounts. As you probably know, stock 500E struts have internal spring buffers that work in the rebound direction. At stock height, this marginally helps the car resist body roll. When you lower a 500E, the new ride height position moves the strut piston further away from the rebound buffers so you may feel as though the car leans more on initial turn-in. With the R129 mounts, the strut pistion is closer to the buffers, in my case, actually a bit closer than stock.

Now, don't take this too far. The buffers don't make that much of a difference but I believe it's noticeable. It's probably more effective to install larger sway bars but every little bit helps.

===================================

Postby omegabenz on Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:45 pm

Glen wrote:As you probably know, stock 500E struts have internal spring buffers that work in the rebound direction. At stock height, this marginally helps the car resist body roll. When you lower a 500E, the new ride height position moves the strut piston further away from the rebound buffers so you may feel as though the car leans more on initial turn-in.



Now if the SL mounts were a lot stiffer than the stock 500E mounts, then you'd really have a great combo, but they are not. Something more rigid would definately help with initial turn-in response. Such as RDMTEK mounts. RDMTEK mounts could mount higher in w124s and R129s, but in w201s they barely clear as it is. So we wanted them to work in all three chassis, and that is why they are that height.

http://www.rdmtek.com/Shock_Towers.html (scroll down for more info on height)

Neil was talking about spraying urethane into motor mounts and tranny mounts, maybe you could do this with your SL mounts to stiffen them up.

I dont have the link anymore of what Neil was doing.

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Postby Alpina on Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:48 am

Extreme clean and good looking
Sveinbj?rn Hrafnsson

ALPINA BITURBO 346@507
E30 CABRIO S38B38

Alpina
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Some old pictures of when I did the front license tag delete.
Before:
117.jpg

And after:
118.jpg
 

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Re: OWNER - Glen

Glen, about the license tag delete, what are the rules in California in order to have the license tag deleted?
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

The law requires us to run front license plates. I keep my front plate in the trunk :)
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Yep, that's my car at a get together in Orange County, California from about 5 years ago. I wonder where they got that picture?
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

I had a thread on 500Ecstasy on emissions testing results but that has been lost with the disappearance of that site. So...I'm going to put my latest results in my owner thread.

My car has just over 120,000 miles and I didn't do anything in particular to get it ready for the test. I did put in new ignition wires but that was just for looks, the old wires showed no issues and the car ran great. Here are the results for 2011.

Due to ASR, the E500E can only be tested with the older tailpipe only sniffer test not on the dyno under load. Anyway, from memory, my car is a point or two dirtier then the test two years ago...but still pretty darn clean for a 17 year old car :-)
 

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Re: OWNER - Glen

Glen, where is says MAX, is that the California state mandated limit for that gas?

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Glen,

:124: As always your car looks awesome. That silver is a great color.

Take Care
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

gerryvz said:
Glen, where is says MAX, is that the California state mandated limit for that gas?

Cheers,
Gerry

Yes, I believe so...and it's different for each year. In fact for my 2003 BMW, which I also had tested this week, the MAX measurements were in PPM (parts per million) vs %.
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Couple of new pictures from today. Sunny and warm here in southern California! :-)
 

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So, I've been evaluating a trunk lip spoiler and would like some opinions. Let me know what you think...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355599382.513493.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355599394.800662.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355599411.951124.jpg

If you are familiar with the factory lip spoiler on the E39 M5, this one is almost identical in profile. it's held on with double sided foam tape so it's easily removed, if desired.
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Although on itself it looks well done, I personally think it disturbs the pretty original lines too much.

Also: is this purely cosmetic or would it actually have any use?

Edit: I've been resizing this in my head, and I actually think a slightly larger version would look better, don't you think? Then again, I think it's better not to listen to me :P
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

It's primarily cosmetic and it's intended to be very subtle.
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Unlike the Newer MBs, those lip spoilers don't do much for the 500E strong lines. I know they look apart on the E39 M5, but here they are unnoticeable.

Needs to be a modern Duck-tail, I suggest a smaller slimmer design that fits on the Trunk lid curve (See W211 E63 Spoiler on my car). This will make it Noticeable yet subtle.
 

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Re: OWNER - Glen

Unlike the Newer MBs, those lip spoilers don't do much for the 500E strong lines. I know they look apart on the E39 M5, but here they are unnoticeable.

Needs to be a modern Duck-tail, I suggest a smaller slimmer design that fits on the Trunk lid curve (See W211 E63 Spoiler on my car). This will make it Noticeable yet subtle.

Yes, I was hoping to be able to install it further back on the rounded part of the trunk edge, however, this universal lip will not work there. It's definitely a compromise.
 
My opinion but I think the regular style spoiler like what's on Chichois' car is a better match for the W124 styling
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

Glen, how about a modified factory AMG duck tail? They can be made to fit the facelifted trunk lids. Still too large?

:mushroom:
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

I've considered that style of spoiler and it's nice to be able to see what it looks like on our cars. Nice work. I like the full ducktail but it's very PERMENENT. (maybe one day). I think it looks pretty good. It's hard to tell from pictures.

drew
 
Re: OWNER - Glen

My opinion but I think the regular style spoiler like what's on Chichois' car is a better match for the W124 styling

+1, The Spoiler on the Red Brabus 6.5 looks at home... but its too aggressive/sporty for a normal 500E IMO, would like to see something more subtle.
 
Nothing new to report other than just passing this year's California emissions test.
 

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Cool! Thanks for the report.

Your emissions restrictions are much tighter in CA than we have here in TX.

Our CO is 1.2% (20% higher than PRC), and HC is 220 max (1.7-2x higher than PRC).

Even with the tight restrictions there, our M119s (and even my M117s) have no problems meeting them.

Are emissions tests required in rural parts of PRC?
 
As you surmise, there are some areas that do not require emission testing; mostly rural, less populated areas.
Limits are indeed pretty tight here and the newer the car, the stricter the limits. As an example, for MY 2003 cars, the HC (PPM) limits are 47 / 31 for 15 MPH / 25 MPH, respectively with the test carried out on a dyno. CO (%) limits are: .46 / .43 and NO (PPM) are: 400 / 687.
 
I have the same color 500E as your car Glenn (although mines a 92), and also have the same E39 M5 lip spoiler. I just don't like how the lip spoiler, and the curved trunk lip meet...like you mentioned the spoiler has to be mounted just slighty forward of the lip. Plus I agree it is just too small for the overall look of the car.

I just managed to source an original still in box AMG ducktail, Heckspoiler W124 (#B6-602-06-68) to mount instead. I read somewhere that the ducktail increased downforce by 30%...anyone know is this is true or myth? Yep, I'm old school! lol.
 
I tried to "like" the lip spoiler...but I finally removed it a few weeks ago. I personally like the size but it simply didn't sit far enough back on the deck lid to look right. For now, I will go spoiler-less but someday I will fabricate exactly what I want.
 
Brief update:
Installed a set of Bilstein sports last weekend...thanks to KarlC for a great deal on a brand new set!
Not much of a difference in ride because the "old" struts were fairly new with less than 5000 miles. Still, there is a slight improvement in handling and it's always nice to install upgraded parts.

Old struts are now installed in the high miler :-)
 
Installed new shifter bushing with my home made bushing tool. See gallery for pix of tool.
Also installed new MB transmission mount. :)
 
December 24, 2014
Sunny and warm :-)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419448617.267062.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419448628.901265.jpg

Merry Christmas! (or whatever you celebrate this time of year)
 
I love those wheels. Wish I could find a set for sale.

Very nice weather you're enjoying. It's about 45 degrees here in the Pacific Moist West. We will be celebrating Festivus tomorrow.
 
Installed the Feind Stage 1 rear sway bar today. Working by myself, it took about 4 hours. I highly recommend finding an assistant to give a hand, will easily cut the install time in half. Or maybe I'm just slow! Lol.

Anyway, a couple things to be aware of. The new bar does not have an index notch for the SLS bracket. Personally I don't think this matters as the new bolt that Feind provides is plenty strong and will hold the bracket to the bar very securely. As the new bar is larger in diameter, the U-bolt is too, this necessitates slotting the bracket to accept the wider and larger bolt. Again, just something to be aware off.

And finally, the brackets that secure the bar to the chassis are quite a bit larger than stock, so there is very little clearance to get a socket on the bolts as it tightens down. Just keep that in mind.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420936215.308121.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421081326.454966.jpg

Car raised, rear wheels removed. Stock rear sway bar:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420936487.993514.jpg
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SLS valve, I disconnected the adjustment arm at the bracket that attaches to the sway bar.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420936708.379074.jpg
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Next, I unbolted the sway bar downlink:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420936856.875088.jpg

Then I removed the LCA plastic covers and each lower shock bolt:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420936960.566799.jpg

Using my transmission jack, I supported the entire crossmember and rear suspension and then removed the 4 subframe bolts. Then slowly lowered the rear suspension. It comes down a total of about 4 inches.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420937230.323374.jpg
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At that point, I maneuvered the bar towards the passenger side just enough to gain easy access to the nuts that secure a the SLS bracket on the sway bar, which I then removed:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420937524.547829.jpg

With that out of the way, I also disconnected the SLS valve and its bracket from the underside of the floor. There are three nuts and once free it makes it easier to get the bar out. Then it's just a matter of fishing the bar out. I found it easier to finagle it out the driver side and this is where a second person helps as they can help move the subframe up or down as you work the bar out.

As I mentioned, the bracket that attaches to the bar needs to have two holes enlarged and elongated to fit the new larger bolt:
Enlarging holes to 1/4"
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420943600.875212.jpg

After slotting with Dremel:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420938000.956122.jpg
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Time to put the new bar in, in my case it went in fairly easily:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420938205.772696.jpg
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Once the new bar is in place, you can raise the subframe and secure it with the 4 bolts. Be sure to align the springs in both the upper and lower seats as you raise the subframe.

Mount tightened down:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420938346.700519.jpg

Sway bar downlink, the new bar required flipping the downlink to the outside of the bar to give enough clearance to the strut:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420938450.926964.jpg

And finally, I don't have a picture but I decided to flip the bracket that attaches to the sway bar and SLS adjustment rod so that I could tighten the bolts from below the car. Since there is no index flat on the bar, I figured I could set the car down and then tighten the nuts from below. I don't think there will be any clearance issues but will keep an eye on it.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420938783.454681.jpg

Note to Feind: if you have another batch made, consider making the bar wider by 1 inch total. Add 1/2" on the outside of each chassis mount point.

I haven't driven it much yet, but my short drive around the neighborhood is encouraging. The rear feels much more planted and there is definitely less body roll. I want to add a bit more negative camber before pushing though. Currently at about 1 degree and I want to go to about 1.5 while I get used to it.
 

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