FOR SALE Parting out: 1992 400E, White/Gray, 140kmi, non-ASR

[500AMM]

The 3 plastic clips are molded into the forward edge of the panel. The panel needs to be gently pressed backwards and out to release them without breaking.

The metal clips are usually tightly embedded in the plastic, and if you pull the panel forward (after un-clipping the 3 plastic tabs at the front), the metal clip should slide out of the chassis wall easily. If you need to remove the metal clip from the panel, it requires careful wiggling to extract it without breaking the plastic. The metal clips can almost always be re-used.

Hmmm, in first sentence shall the panel be pressed backwards, but in next it is forward... What do I miss out on here?

 

[gsxr]

Hmmm, in first sentence shall the panel be pressed backwards, but in next it is forward... What do I miss out on here?

Note that the fabric trim around the door opening should be removed before touching the C-pillar panel (FSM step 1).

Then you release the plastic tabs (FSM step 2), so the forward edge of the panel is loose and will pull away from the side of the chassis. This is the critical part, if you mess up, you can break the plastic tabs. If this happens you can try to use plastic epoxy to re-attach them, if they are not lost inside a chassis cavity.

AFTER the leading/forward edge of the panel is loose.... you then pull the entire panel forward (FSM step 3).

FSM procudure: http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/68-449.pdf

Highly recommended to practice on a junkyard car if possible, after doing it once or twice, it all makes sense.

 

[linjam]

Jamie, just FYI... some of these pieces are different between 034 and 036:

• Trunk floor sheet metal 124-610-04-75 is 036-specific. Not used on the 400E.
• The U-shaped lower radiator support 124-620-56-86 is 036-specific. Not used on the 400E.
• Stock 8-hole wheels on all 400E/E420, USA-spec, are 15" only.
• Side anti-noise covers engine 124-524-20-30 (right) and 124-524-21-30 (left) are 036-specific.
• Undershield/sound absorber 124-524-38-30 is only for use with the special metal undersheild, not offered in USA on either 034 or 036 chassis. If you want the 1-piece standard plastic undershield for 036, these are still available new (and, once again, are unique to the 036 chassis... the 034 item is different.)

I think the rest of your list can all be sourced from the 400E though.

Thanks so much, Dave. Your knowledge on these maters is truly encyclopedic.

I am very surprised particularly that the sheet metal under the trunk floor is different. I was looking specifically for the area under and around the spare tire. Would that smaller area work?

Tip: The reverse lookup in the EPC is very helpful. Example shown below for the trunk floor, which is only used on the 036 chassis, worldwide. April-2018 EPC shown, ISPPI should have similar search functionality and identical results

Dave, I have just signed up for the EPC. Despite being quite a bit more technical than the average individual, I find it utterly unintuitive, even having read through (quickly) the badly written and overly technical manual/guide pdf. It's the kind of user interface you might find in the earliest iterations of any form of GUI. Pathetic, really. I shouldn't, as an average user, have to deal with this level of unnecessary complication. See my post here on the subject:

New EPC subscriber needs help translating/navigating | Maintenance Documents

Up until this week I have for years been using dealer and other sites to do part searches. Despite the lack of reliability of availability and on which part is for which car, these sites are very easy to navigate. This week, I signed up for the Daimler EPC/XPPIS system, which I had not known...

www.500eboard.co

Jamie. I just left you a voice message. I do have multiple sets of 16 inch 8 hole stock wheels.

Thanks, Drew. I received it and left you a voicemail in return. We can remove the items from the list which Dave said are 036 specific, except I'm still determining whether specifically the sheet metal around/under the spare tire is different. Thanks.

Jamie

 

[500AMM]

Note that the fabric trim around the door opening should be removed before touching the C-pillar panel (FSM step 1).

Then you release the plastic tabs (FSM step 2), so the forward edge of the panel is loose and will pull away from the side of the chassis. This is the critical part, if you mess up, you can break the plastic tabs. If this happens you can try to use plastic epoxy to re-attach them, if they are not lost inside a chassis cavity.

AFTER the leading/forward edge of the panel is loose.... you then pull the entire panel forward (FSM step 3).

FSM procudure: http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/68-449.pdf

Highly recommended to practice on a junkyard car if possible, after doing it once or twice, it all makes sense.

Many thanks for clarifying, Dave!

 

[gsxr]

I am very surprised particularly that the sheet metal under the trunk floor is different. I was looking specifically for the area under and around the spare tire. Would that smaller area work?

All other 124's had a spare tire well designed for a 6.5" to 7.0" wide wheel. The 036 had 8.0" wheels, and the sheet metal around the spare tire had to be deeper to accommodate this. I'm not positive if the diameter is larger as well - I don't think so, but I've never measured it.

If only the very bottom is what you need, it MIGHT be possible to cut that out and weld in the .034 section, assuming you cut a couple of inches up the wall, and the shape/diameter matches exactly. I've never researched this, and don't know anyone who has attempted it.

In general, the only reason you'd need to replace the bottom of the spare tire well is if a hole rusted through. And in that case, smaller patch pieces will suffice as a repair, unless the entire base is rotted out (which would be very unusual). Years ago,I had a body shop repair a couple of holes in the bottom of a 124 spare tire well using patch pieces from a donor car, instead of cutting out the entire tire well.

Dave, I have just signed up for the EPC. Despite being quite a bit more technical than the average individual, I find it utterly unintuitive, even having read through (quickly) the badly written and overly technical manual/guide pdf. It's the kind of user interface you might find in the earliest iterations of any form of GUI. Pathetic, really. I shouldn't, as an average user, have to deal with this level of unnecessary complication. See my post here on the subject:

Heh. You think the EPC is bad, you should try the WIS! The WIS is next-level misery. The EPC gets easier as you learn the quirks. The WIS remains torturous to use. Remember, Mercedes never, ever intended vehicle owners to use the EPC or WIS. Both programs were designed for Mercedes employees who would be factory trained on using both.

Anyway - the more you use the EPC, the easier it will get. For the 124 chassis you don't necessarily need to enter your VIN each time, just the chassis code (124036) will suffice. On newer MB's you really must use the full VIN, as it will automatically filter out results that don't apply to your specific vehicle. There's no simple reference on how to find things, as you spend more time looking, eventually you'll remember what group certain items are located in. Even now after 20 years of using the EPC, sometimes it takes me 10-15 mins to figure out where MB put some oddball part.

 

[linjam]

In general, the only reason you'd need to replace the bottom of the spare tire well is if a hole rusted through. And in that case, smaller patch pieces will suffice as a repair, unless the entire base is rotted out (which would be very unusual). Years ago,I had a body shop repair a couple of holes in the bottom of a 124 spare tire well using patch pieces from a donor car, instead of cutting out the entire tire well.

I have three layers of Dynamat in the trunk. Unbeknownst to me, I had for years a trunk leak, and water sat down there for a very long time. I don’t see any holes from underneath but it is covered in that rubbery body spray stuff. I’ve already replaced the battery compartment with a genuine one. The left side underneath seems slightly rusty along the seam and may need the same in the future. I’m asking about obtaining the spare tire well sheet metal in case I find a lot of rust after removing the Dynamat using the dry ice and isopropyl alcohol method, which I hope to do this week.

Anyway - the more you use the EPC, the easier it will get. For the 124 chassis you don't necessarily need to enter your VIN each time, just the chassis code (124036) will suffice. On newer MB's you really must use the full VIN, as it will automatically filter out results that don't apply to your specific vehicle. There's no simple reference on how to find things, as you spend more time looking, eventually you'll remember what group certain items are located in. Even now after 20 years of using the EPC, sometimes it takes me 10-15 mins to figure out where MB put some oddball part.

It’s been pretty rough. It doesn’t even let me search by part number, and on the way to choosing a vehicle asks me questions I have to guess the answers to about my vehicle. I can’t tell what is available vs NLA. I can’t see for what vehicles a part number applies. I figured out how to add a part to a shopping list but not how to find the shopping list. There are a bunch of symbols I see, which to heaven knows what. Even the pdf manual is written in an alien tongue. Etc etc etc

I started a thread in the maintenance document section, hoping for some tips tricks, but nothing so far:

New EPC subscriber needs help translating/navigating | Maintenance Documents

Up until this week I have for years been using dealer and other sites to do part searches. Despite the lack of reliability of availability and on which part is for which car, these sites are very easy to navigate. This week, I signed up for the Daimler EPC/XPPIS system, which I had not known...

www.500eboard.co

At this point, it’s fairly unusable for me. Sigh

 

[gerryvz]

I’ve already replaced the battery compartment with a genuine one.

@Jlaa -- you had better check your parts stash, to ensure that @linjam didn't come to your SFO home in the middle of the night and steal your battery sheet metal !!

 

[Jlaa]

@Jlaa -- you had better check your parts stash, to ensure that @linjam didn't come to your SFO home in the middle of the night and steal your battery sheet metal !!

Me: In case @linjam is coming....

 

[gerryvz]

Me: In case @linjam is coming....

That's a Sawzall....the tool of serial killers?!?

 

[Jlaa]

That's a Sawzall....the tool of serial killers?!?

looks like I need bifocals ... sawzall / rifles ... all look the same to me!

 

[gerryvz]

looks like I need bifocals ... sawzall / rifles ... all look the same to me!

That's what living in California does.....no exposure to firearms. Or, sawzall = firearm = mass murder weaponry !!

 

[linjam]

@Jlaa -- you had better check your parts stash, to ensure that @linjam didn't come to your SFO home in the middle of the night and steal your battery sheet metal !!

Lol. I now feel lucky to have bought it before NLA status. I had no idea. Like the Euro headlights this trunk area is prone to rust in all 124s, from what I understand. Amazing that such easily and regularly perishable items could ever be NLA.

Me: In case @linjam is coming....

Haha. Like some of the parts I've collected, I was wondering when that body armor would come in handy.

 

[linjam]

I'll be parting out a 140,000 mile 92 400E non ASR car starting next week. Light hit in the front right. White over grey. As parts come off i'll be posting pictures and prices of 036 applicable items here

Drew, may I add:

The metal bracket/sheet metal on the inside area of the antenna (not sure of exact description/part number)

and

The BM/GM, ASR, DM, and E-Gas modules

Gray door sills (four)

Thanks so much.

Jamie

 

[gsxr]

FYI... since the donor is non-ASR, it won't have either an ASR module or E-GAS module.

Drew, if the car has a CEL in the dash, the DM will be located in the passenger footwell. Some 1992 cars don't have either a CEL or DM.

 

[sheward]

I had to search and found your old post as to what a DM module is. I'll remove it.

drew

 

[gsxr]

Tip on DM removal... you twist the round knob to release the connection. It's a weird setup.

 

[linjam]

FYI... since the donor is non-ASR, it won't have either an ASR module or E-GAS module.

Drew, if the car has a CEL in the dash, the DM will be located in the passenger footwell. Some 1992 cars don't have either a CEL or DM.

Then I suppose just the BM module and the DM module

 

[atg]

I will take the CD changer mounting bracket if it is available. Thanks.

 

[sheward]

It is available and i do not believe anyone has asked yet. My goal now is to have all pics and prices up this weekend.
Thanks!

drew

 

[500AMM]

I assume this E420 has dual el.seats?
If so I'm interested in some of the back end covers on the seat rails. The locking tabs on these covers are prone to break, either from incorrect disassembly or from passenger foot kicking over years. I am especially looking for the left seat outer cover, it's missing on one of my cars.

 

[sheward]

I will earmark them for you Arnt.

drew

 

[linjam]

Hi Drew. Can I add the front deflector and the two connecting side panels to my list?

Front deflector 124-524-27-30
Side panel right 124-524-20-30
Side panel left 124-524-21-30

Do these fit 500E? I think the part number is different, but they look identical. Wonder if they can be made to fit.

Thanks.

Jamie

 

[linjam]

Drew, do you happen to know which sound system your car has? Is it the 1432 system? The 1492 system?

 

[linjam]

Drew, if the shifter knob/shaft is in good shape, I'll take that.

Jamie

 

[gsxr]

If original, it will have the 1432 with "sound system".

Drew, you have any photos of the car exterior / interior?

 

[atg]

It is available and i do not believe anyone has asked yet. My goal now is to have all pics and prices up this weekend.
Thanks!

drew

OK thanks. CD changer would be an awesome addition to my 420. I would take the changer also but it seemed to be spoken for.

 

[linjam]

Drew, I asked earlier for all the audio related components (speakers, brackets, wiring, amps, grills, etc.) I already have the 1432 head unit, which I presume is the one in your car. Here are some additions to the list courtesy of Jlaa:

"I believe Drew's 400E is a preface lift model with "Sound System". If that's true, all of it can be used to restore your system to OE specifications (1432) assuming that none of my 1432 bluetooth discussion above has scared you off. The two amplifiers, the wiring, the door panels, and the tuner module that Drew has would all be required. Also if you are using the OE door speakers and not Jehnerts, please have Drew send you the metal brackets that are riveted to the metal door frames upon which the OE door speaker enclosures mount to."

Thanks, Drew

J

 

[sheward]

The car has the original 1432 sound system however the CD changer is not present. The bracket is. Due to the amount of interest through messages i will have to check back through the requests as to who asked for what. All the sound system components have been removed save for the wiring.

drew

 

[sheward]

Hi Drew. Can I add the front deflector and the two connecting side panels to my list?

Front deflector 124-524-27-30
Side panel right 124-524-20-30
Side panel left 124-524-21-30

Do these fit 500E? I think the part number is different, but they look identical. Wonder if they can be made to fit.

Thanks.

Jamie

Could you post a picture or an explanation of what these panels are please?

drew

 

[gsxr]

All 3 of these engine-compartment sound/splash panels are 036-specific, not the same as 034.

Front deflector 124-524-27-30 - still available new (see PM reply coming shortly; look at your MBCC quote again!)​

Side panel right 124-524-20-30 - still available new​

Side panel left 124-524-21-30 - NLA as of 2019​

​

The panels on the .034 are shorter. The .036 has longer panels (all 3) because the bumper lip sits forward several inches.

 

[sheward]

Thank You, Dave!

drew

 

[atg]

Drew, I asked earlier for all the audio related components (speakers, brackets, wiring, amps, grills, etc.) I already have the 1432 head unit, which I presume is the one in your car. Here are some additions to the list courtesy of Jlaa:

"I believe Drew's 400E is a preface lift model with "Sound System". If that's true, all of it can be used to restore your system to OE specifications (1432) assuming that none of my 1432 bluetooth discussion above has scared you off. The two amplifiers, the wiring, the door panels, and the tuner module that Drew has would all be required. Also if you are using the OE door speakers and not Jehnerts, please have Drew send you the metal brackets that are riveted to the metal door frames upon which the OE door speaker enclosures mount to."

Thanks, Drew

J

If you are going for an original spec setup then please take all of it. My car is a 1994 so none of this stuff is original to it. I like the idea of a factory mount CD changer setup but can easily install something else.

Karl

 

[LWB250]

All 3 of these engine-compartment sound/splash panels are 036-specific, not the same as 034.

Front deflector 124-524-27-30 - still available new (see PM reply coming shortly; look at your MBCC quote again!)​

Side panel right 124-524-20-30 - still available new​

Side panel left 124-524-21-30 - NLA as of 2019​

​

The panels on the .034 are shorter. The .036 has longer panels (all 3) because the bumper lip sits forward several inches.

Dave,

Is this the case for the belly pan as well? I believe on the 034 it's a 124 524 31 30. I ask because I'm looking for one and I don't want to get the wrong one.

Thanks!

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Dave,

Is this the case for the belly pan as well? I believe on the 034 it's a 124 524 31 30. I ask because I'm looking for one and I don't want to get the wrong one.

Dan, yes, the .034 and .036 engine splash shield are different. AFAIK both are still available new. They are very hard to find used undamaged, and due to the size, cost a small fortune to ship (also hard to box up for safe transit). Generally best to buy new from whatever dealer can get you one at a reasonable cost.

Trivia: Many years ago I sold a 124 diesel transmission sound/splash panel, similar in size to the 034/036 engine shield. It took me *hours* to fabricate a box to ship the damn thing in. Last time I ever offered one for sale.

 

[linjam]

All 3 of these engine-compartment sound/splash panels are 036-specific, not the same as 034.

Front deflector 124-524-27-30 - still available new (see PM reply coming shortly; look at your MBCC quote again!)​

Side panel right 124-524-20-30 - still available new​

Side panel left 124-524-21-30 - NLA as of 2019​

​

The panels on the .034 are shorter. The .036 has longer panels (all 3) because the bumper lip sits forward several inches.

Thanks, Dave. Ok Drew. Never mind that request.

If you are going for an original spec setup then please take all of it. My car is a 1994 so none of this stuff is original to it. I like the idea of a factory mount CD changer setup but can easily install something else.

Karl

Thanks so much, Karl. Most kind of you.

The car has the original 1432 sound system however the CD changer is not present. The bracket is. Due to the amount of interest through messages i will have to check back through the requests as to who asked for what. All the sound system components have been removed save for the wiring.

drew

Thanks, Drew. I'm pretty sure my wiring is either non-existent or chopped up, so I'll need the wiring, as it is a special setup, without which nothing else will work I believe. No rush, however. Thanks.

Jamie

 

[linjam]

Drew, may I add the door felt pieces? Gsxr description:

"I forgot about the door panel felt! Also forgot those were NLA. Might be able to source these from a parts car. New door felts are self-adhesive and stick on top of the plastic vapor barrier (which is also usually a mess after multiple people have worked inside the doors). All my cars had the factory felt so I'm not sure how much difference there is without it. MB added the felt when the put the midbass drivers in the doors as of 1990."

 

[sheward]

I actually saved them as they are in good condition, better than the ones in my green car but not enough to move me to remove the door panels in that car yet again. I'll call you in the next couple of days to make sure I understand everything you have requested.

drew

 

[Jlaa]

I actually saved them as they are in good condition, better than the ones in my green car but not enough to move me to remove the door panels in that car yet again. I'll call you in the next couple of days to make sure I understand everything you have requested.

drew

Drew, there's no need to do that. Just wait. As time progresses, the balance of @linjam's wishlist will steadily increase to encompass the whole car.

 

[linjam]

I actually saved them as they are in good condition, better than the ones in my green car but not enough to move me to remove the door panels in that car yet again. I'll call you in the next couple of days to make sure I understand everything you have requested.

drew

Sounds good. Thanks, Drew

 

[linjam]

Drew, there's no need to do that. Just wait. As time progresses, the balance of @linjam's wishlist will steadily increase to encompass the whole car.

Lol. Smart A**. Yes. Watch out, Drew

 

[gerryvz]

I was thinking the same thing as @Jlaa. Drew, you need to call an auto transporter and have them come and pick the car, and and just ship the damned thing wholesale to @linjam in Washington DC.

 

[gsxr]

I also suggested he may consider an entire 036 parts car!!!

 

[Ntrepid]

I was thinking the same thing as @Jlaa. Drew, you need to call an auto transporter and have them come and pick the car, and and just ship the damned thing wholesale to @linjam in Washington DC.

Or maybe ship the skeleton @linjam has to Drew. ;-)


Robert

 

[linjam]

I was thinking the same thing as @Jlaa. Drew, you need to call an auto transporter and have them come and pick the car, and and just ship the damned thing wholesale to @linjam in Washington DC.

I also suggested he may consider an entire 036 parts car!!!

Or maybe ship the skeleton @linjam has to Drew. ;-)


Robert

Yes. What's left over I can sell to Fred Sanford for his junkyard.

Someone told me there is virus going around, so I figured this was a good time to make headway on this project -- or find something to do, depending how one wants to look at it.

With the quarter panels at $1000 apiece, I'm considering flying to Germany, paying the nightwatchman to look the other way, taking 10 minutes to change the die in the panel stamping machine, stamping out a bunch of panels in 30 minutes, leave behind money for the costs of around $25 per panel, save a couple, and group sell at a low price the rest on this fancy site I've heard about called 500EBOARD.

 

[linjam]

I was thinking the same thing as @Jlaa. Drew, you need to call an auto transporter and have them come and pick the car, and and just ship the damned thing wholesale to @linjam in Washington DC.

I also suggested he may consider an entire 036 parts car!!!

Or maybe ship the skeleton @linjam has to Drew. ;-)

Robert

If, after removing from the car the easier items, you ship the car to Washington and leave it on a nearby street, eventually the local hooligans will strip away the more difficult items so we have an easier time getting to things like the audio system wiring harness.


J

 

[gerryvz]

I was going to write the EXACT same thing yesterday, but thought the better of it in these politically correct times.

I’d say that leaving the car parked next to the side of the road along Kenilworth Ave Eastbound, as you get close to US-50 for a couple of nights would allow exposure of some very diffficult to remove parts.

I’ve never in my life seen anything like how well and completely they strip cars in parts of DC. it’s a real art form.

 

[sheward]

When i was in my 20s I was responsible for closing down a manufacturing plant deep in Detroit every night just after midnight. One day after the same normal closing the morning shift arrived at 6am to find a completely stripped carcass of some 90s car on 4 cinderblocks. in front of the building with nary a usable item left on it.

edit: after some thought, that had to be some 80s car.

drew

 

[linjam]

I was going to write the EXACT same thing yesterday, but thought the better of it in these politically correct times.

I’d say that leaving the car parked next to the side of the road along Kenilworth Ave Eastbound, as you get close to US-50 for a couple of nights would allow exposure of some very diffficult to remove parts.

I’ve never in my life seen anything like how well and completely they strip cars in parts of DC. it’s a real art form.

Lol. Kenilworth Avenue -- one of those roads you only hear about on the radio traffic reports.

 

[gerryvz]

Lol. Kenilworth Avenue -- one of those roads you only hear about on the radio traffic reports.

It's the only real direct way I have to drive into DC, particulary if I'm going to Reagan Airport or the White House/L'Enfant Plaza area. Who wants to hassle with New York Ave ?!? Always get an eye-ful of stripped cars on the feeder road next to Kenilworth on the way to US-50. Any given day there are 3-4 totally stripped cars along there next to the gas stations.

 

[Jlaa]

When i was in my 20s I was responsible for closing down a manufacturing plant deep in Detroit every night just after midnight. One day after the same normal closing the morning shift arrived at 6am to find a completely stripped carcass of some 90s car on 4 cinderblocks. in front of the building with nary a usable item left on it.

edit: after some thought, that had to be some 80s car.

drew

I was going to question your potentially dubious claims of having accumulated many many years of wisdom given your remarks that you were in your 20s in the 1990s. Ha ha ha. Those numbers would only suggest middle age. They would not suggest lots of wisdom.