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Recommendations for paint brand/type?

PJmak

E500E Guru
Member
So I found a local shop that will repaint the whole car for $3500 if I bring it in disassembled which Id prefer to do. I don't trust others to take apart and assemble these old cars(this is my 98 c43). The shop is even willing to do extra layers of clear. If they do the disassemble and assemble it would be around 5k.

My question is: should I care what brand paint they use?

I've heard good things about Glasurit paint but I don't know much about it. I am in Northern California and I have a few questions.

I probably should ask the shop too but he had already told me they don't use Glasurit nor have they heard of it.

Is this paint legal in California?

How would I go about getting some if it comes down to using it?

Is it a good choice to use in my case which I'm assuming would be three stage paint process.
 
Your first choices should be Glasurit or Sikkens.

Second choice should be Spies/Hecker.

After that, American type paints such as PPG, and so on.

American and European paints have different chemistry, and have different characteristics. It is not a good idea to use American paint on a Benz. I mean, people do....it has color, and such, but it also has different characteristics.

If the shop has not heard of Glasurit or Sikkens, I would run away.

Painting is NOT something you want to do "on the cheap."

Glasurit and Sikkens both have "systems" that require a significant investment by the paint shop to purchase and use. It's not just a bunch of paint cans that one buys, brings in, and then shoots onto the car with a paint gun. It's not that simple.

Again, I would run as far away, and as fast as you can, from any shop that is not using quality European paints, let alone has never heard of them. They are NOT going to be able to reproduce a quality finish if they are not familiar with the paint system.
 
Thats what I figured but I wasn't aware of how easy/hard it would be for the shop to implement that paint.

Ill check in with him again to ask what paint he uses. He threw out some names but I don't remember them.
 
A pro shop told me ~20 years ago that Glasurit/Sikkens was not commonly used in USA, for various reasons, generally related to availability and cost. At the time, there was no distributor of either one in the state of Idaho, and it was a real hassle because the shop had to buy large quantities (gallons) of the various parts of the "system", making it cost-prohibitive for a single car. But these high-end European paints were also more chip/ding resistant, and generally worth the effort to obtain.

On the flip side, most mainstream shops use DuPont or similar domestic paints that are widely available and affordable. Problem is, the domestic mfr's have low-end paints, and high-end paints. You have to figure out which one the shop is using for their price quote. The low end stuff will chip if you look at it wrong.

Be careful when selecting your paint, unless you plan to wrap the entire vehicle in clear protection film. Even with top-notch paint, I'd still apply clear film over the high-impact areas (front bumper, side rockers, door mirrors). There's nothing more depressing than shelling out thousands of $$$ in fresh paint only to find dozens of chips six months later.

YMMV, etc.

:seesaw:
 
A pro shop told me ~20 years ago that Glasurit/Sikkens was not commonly used in USA, for various reasons, generally related to availability and cost. At the time, there was no distributor of either one in the state of Idaho, and it was a real hassle because the shop had to buy large quantities (gallons) of the various parts of the "system", making it cost-prohibitive for a single car. But these high-end European paints were also more chip/ding resistant, and generally worth the effort to obtain.

On the flip side, most mainstream shops use DuPont or similar domestic paints that are widely available and affordable. Problem is, the domestic mfr's have low-end paints, and high-end paints. You have to figure out which one the shop is using for their price quote. The low end stuff will chip if you look at it wrong.

Be careful when selecting your paint, unless you plan to wrap the entire vehicle in clear protection film. Even with top-notch paint, I'd still apply clear film over the high-impact areas (front bumper, side rockers, door mirrors). There's nothing more depressing than shelling out thousands of $$$ in fresh paint only to find dozens of chips six months later.

YMMV, etc.

:seesaw:

Thanks for the info :)

I want to ensure I get the best possible paint within my budget. As time goes my budget might grow too. I think Id be ready to spend up to 5-6k for a paintjob but at that price I better have brand new car like paint
 
You may be able to get the price down to that level if you remove everything and bring the car in. And I mean EVERYTHING, to save them the labor cost. More realistically, a good paint job is going to push $10K. But for that price, you'll have paint that is better than the car's was when it was new.
 
I run a body shop in Japan.
The highest quality in the world is STANDOX.
STANDOX has the highest certification in the world, including Mercedes-Benz.
However, even if it is not STANDOX, every paint manufacturer has a clear rank, and if you use the clear of the highest rank of that paint manufacturer, there is no problem at all.
But the biggest problem is the painter, not the paint.

It was painted with DuPont about 10 years ago (it is said to be a luxury paint in Japan and is mainly used in luxury car dealers).
Clear is of course the highest rank clear.
It remains in a beautiful condition even after 10 years. (Parking in the blue sky)DSC01014_R_20110106092343.jpg
img_7990-jpg.118514
IMG_8609.PNG
 
Have them paint it in whatever paint they use to paint all other cars. The painter will know how to use that paint and will not blame you if they screw it up because you bought the paint.
 
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I haven’t had a chance to try them yet, but I’ve heard good things about Meza Automotive Paint in Escondido.
 

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