What I learned through all of this, as a general rule of thumb, was the following:
Cooling temp problems are either caused by airflow issues, or coolant circulation issues.
Airflow-related components that can cause problems are: aux fans and associated temp sensors, relays, fuses, etc.; fan clutch; radiator (if externally clogged with bugs/detritus, or otherwise physically/externally blocked from flowing air efficiently by debris); or fan shroud (directs air properly)
Coolant circulation components that can cause problems are: thermostat; radiator (if old and blocked/clogged internally with scale inside the tubes, or leaking, etc.); water pump (impeller not circulating coolant efficiently); coolant expansion tank cap (not maintaining system pressure).
Since this is my first post here, I've just got to say thank you very much for all your amazing walktroughs on all sorts of repairs. I've been lurking here a long time, and used a lot of your M117 posts as reference when I've been working on my own. It's been a real lifesaver.
As for this post; I had most of the problems you mentioned on my M117, and have now finally fixed pretty much all of them. However, in the process, I've had to pull my condenser, plug the AC lines, and disconnect the compressor (for the time being). I'm also down one fan clutch and primary engine fan, so the aux fans are my only option for active cooling for now.
My question is: Would there be any downsides to me just shorting the red pressure sensor switch, bypassing it completely, so that the aux fans always run on low setting?