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SOLD SOLD: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

gsxr

.036 Hoonigan™, E500E Boffin, @DITOG
Staff member
FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

I recently removed my K-Mac rear camber & toe kit from my second car. The bushings are used, but are in excellent shape.

Please note that since these are polyurethane bushings, they can squeak slightly... you only hear it with the window down, at low speeds, going over a bump (for example, a speed bump in a parking lot). The squeak cannot be heard from inside the car with the windows up. K-Mac includes a small packet of white grease for the bushings which is supposed to prevent the sqeak, this lubricant is included. I decided to try the RDMTEK rear camber correction kit, which is non-adjustable, and is more expensive ($250 for camber alone, plus an additional $240 for modified tie rods)... but it uses stock rubber bushings which are silent. I do not recommend K-Mac kit for street use due to the squeaking noise, which I found annoying... I recommend the RDM TEK items instead, and that's what I'm using on my car. The RDM TEK kit is non-adjustable, but that wasn't a concern for my intended use. The K-Mac is great for track or autox use, or if you don't mind the squeaking.

Please note that I am selling a pair of complete lower control arms (LCA's) with bushings already installed, as shown in the photos below. This will save you at least 2 hours of labor... it is a HUGE pain to remove the stock bushings from the LCA so you can install the K-Mac bushings!! The tie rod bushings are NOT installed, you will need to remove your existing tie rod bushings, but this is easily accomplished using a bench vise and appropriate-size sockets as shown here and here. More photos showing the installation process are at this link.


These will fit all 124's except wagons, as well as most 129, 170, 202, 203, 208, 209, and 210 chassis. Current MSRP on the K-Mac kit is $320, lowest price I know of is approx $300 shipped, and you'd still need to spend a few hours extracting those blasted bushings from the control arm!

SOLD

:checkeredflag:
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

In response to a number of questions received:

The rubber bushings on the subframe links do more than just locate the wheel carrier... they are bonded rubber bushings, which snap back to the static position when pulled up or down. This is integral to the rear suspension functionality. If you replace these factory links with adjustable links (none of which have bonded rubber bushings**), the suspension loses this additional "return to center" function, and it causes serious handling problems. In general, you don't want to use these adjustable arms - even the ones which have rubber bushings are NOT bonded rubber bushings like the factory items; they may not make noise but they also won't bounce back. Here is a link to a video (10MB) showing how the suspension bounces back to center, with the coil spring removed and shock disconnected:

https://www.w124performance.com/movies/M ... ebound.mpg

** Update: Megan Racing camber arms appear to have bonded rubber bushings. Most others do not, AFAIK.

At first, I tried installing just an adjustable camber arm, and ended up with wheel hop during a burnout. Reverting back to stock cured the problem. That's when I installed the K-Mac kit, which worked OK other than the squeaking & ride height issues. The RDM TEK solution cured the K-Mac problems, and only gave up adjustability... I still had a decent -1.40° rear camber with the car lowered.

Anyway, the K-Mac kit doesn't really offer additional stiffness (from polyurethane vs rubber), and IMO there's no need for additional stiffness anyway. If any of the rear bushings are old or worn, new factory items should bring things back to normal - the subframe bushings are usually toast after 15-20 years. I still highly recommend the RDM TEK shortened rear LCA's as first choice for rear camber correction. If you really need rear camber adjustment (for race/track use, etc) then I would recommend K-Mac as the next option. I do NOT recommend using any adjustable links, for camber or any other arm, no matter if they have Heim joints or rubber bushings.

BTW - here is a video showing the squeak noise from the K-Mac bushings. It seems quite loud in the video since the camera is right next to the bushing and there is almost no ambient noise to help mask the squeak:
https://www.w124performance.com/movies/M ... squeak.mpg

I purchased my K-Mac kits from Shox.com, btw. Click here for photos of the K-Mac installation process. It's far more work than installing the RDM TEK LCA.

Finally - here is a link to the RDM TEK website:
http://rdmtek.com/Rear_Suspension.html
UPDATE: The RDM TEK website is DOA now.


:cheers:
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

Hi Dave,

RDM TEK says they are modifying original LCAs. What's in fact done on them - any cutting and welding? Or, only cut and added a new bolt hole for the outer mounting bolt?

Which height/lowering values are recommended to achieve a decent camber?

-arnt-
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

Hello Arnt,

RDM TEK welds on an additional plate to the end of a new factory LCA, and drills a new hole 5mm further in. I believe they also supply a new bolt & nut as well since it has to be a few mm longer than stock.

Ride height is highly subjective and people have different tastes... also, the front ride height will vary depending on if you have new or old struts. New struts have higher gas pressure and will raise the car up to about 1/2" (10-15mm) compared to old struts with low pressure. Lots of variables. My E500 has old struts and is 13.75" from wheel center to fender lip, with stock springs a 2pt pads. My 500E has the same springs/pads but almost new struts, and it measures 14.0". The stock rear ride height tends to be on the high side (14.25-14.50") even with the thinnest spring pad, so if you want to lower it you may need to cut 1/4 coil off the rear springs, and adjust the SLS a bit. I was able to get my cars down to 14.0" in the rear (with a full tank) via this method. The rear height will increase 0.25-0.50" with an empty tank.

Final note: With the RDM TEK LCA's installed, and stock ride height, the rear tie rods (for rear toe adjustment) will be right at the limit of adjustment - or beyond the limit of adjustment. This means you may not be able to get the rear toe into spec, although it shouldn't be very far off. If the car is lowered at all, it WILL NOT be in spec. In this case, you need more toe adjustment... there are factory eccentric bushings for the rear tie rods which provide 1.5mm additional travel, and when these are installed, rear toe can be adjusted in spec even when lowered with RDM TEK LCA's.

Click here to see the alignment results of my E500 with RDM TEK LCA's and stock tie rods.

Click here to see the alignment results of my 500E with RDM TEK LCA's and tie rods with factory eccentric bushings installed.

In both cases, the rear camber was just about perfect, between -1.25° and -1.50°. I plan to install the eccentric bushings on the E500 this winter and have it aligned again to get the toe in spec.

:3gears:
 

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Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

Forgot to mention: The factory eccentric bushing is p/n 124-352-43-65 and the USA price is outrageous (2 are required, btw).

I do have a pair of brand new, never-installed K-Mac tie rod bushings available for sale... note this is HALF the full K-Mac kit, as I already sold the camber bushings separately. The full kit is $320 list price new. I'll sell the new K-Mac adjustable tie rod bushings for $150 shipped in the USA. That's about half the cost of the factory eccentrics. I need to post these in the classifieds...


:5150:
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

Many thanks for useful information, Dave!

The LCA mods are as expected and I will do that myself, no problem.

The hight on my Limited is 13.5" front 13.75" rear. I'm sure it has the original springs and the fronts needs to be changed anyway since the lower tip is broken on one of them (the common weakness on all 124s). I go for standard springs on that car.

The SuperMerc came with 13" front and 14" rear?! I don't like this set up at all, it causes oversteer and a whimsy tail, and it looks strange too. The car has H&R now, but I don't know what they really have put on there. The rear pads are standard No.2, so changing to No.1 gives only 7mm. I think the SLS have been adjusted up a bit. I have a new set of Brabus springs available now and hopefully I buy them and see how they fit the car. At the end I think I'll sacrifice the SLS in place of better struts and more adjustments.

If I aim for 13" at rear to match the front I definitively need to adjust the toe too, and I prefer the factory tie rod eccentric bushings to avvoid any squeeking. I have to see all the hight adjustments in accordance with the wheel set-up. If I end up with 19" I will have tires probably exceeding the recommended max dia. a bit, to get as much tire wall as possible and flexibility. But bigger wheel dia. also means slower acceleration, so it's always a compromise.

Cheers
-arnt-
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

Hello Arnt,

How was the 2010 trefft ?

Can you please provide more detail about the springs set you are using, I friend needs a set of lowering springs but we can't find a correct set for the 500E.

The H&R website shows a spring set for the 500E But its for non-SLS setups...
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

195910 said:
Hello Arnt,

How was the 2010 trefft ?

Can you please provide more detail about the springs set you are using, I friend needs a set of lowering springs but we can't find a correct set for the 500E.

The H&R website shows a spring set for the 500E But its for non-SLS setups...

Hello there, long time, no see. :)

I didn't participate in the 2010 gathering in our MB Entusiastklubb. But I drove the SuperMerc up there for a one day visit only. The prize winners in the 124-class were; Ms.V-Max's E60 AMG, the Brabus 6.5 and third became the E60 AMG replica (which is a 100% rebuild and very good looking, 040).

The H&R on my SuperMerc is front ;DB124500E 29855 VA and rear; DB124500E 29855 HA

Cheers
-arnt-
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

What options are available if you install the H&R lowering springs for rear camber? RDM Tek's website is no longer around.
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

What options are available if you install the H&R lowering springs for rear camber? RDM Tek's website is no longer around.
My current preferred solution is the Megan Racing adjustable camber arms, which are very well built IMO, and have bonded rubber bushings like the OE design. I have these on one car now and plan to use them on a couple others as well. As a bonus, the $$$ fatory tie rod eccentrics are not needed with the Megan Racing arms.

https://www.amazon.com/Megan-Camber-Mercedes-C-Class-MRS-MB-0310/dp/B00DIJIL4W/

Disclaimer: Stock 500E's with stock wheels/tires generally should not need rear camber correction. I generally feel that rear camber correction is only needed on 500E's with very wide rear wheels/tires (9-10" wheels, 265-285 tires), or on standard 124's that are drastically lowered. Without camber correction, 500E rear camber often ends up in the -2.0° to -3.0° range, which wears the inside edge of the tire rapidly. I've heard of 275 tires getting shredded in 3kmi but forget the details. I like to aim for roughly -1.0° in the rear for even tire wear. This may increase oversteer under hard cornering, so be careful when hooning. Also, if your lower wheel support joints have never been replaced - do them at the same time, it's cheap & easy (details here). Old support joints can increase negative camber.

:gsxracer:
 

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Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit

They don’t specify w124 chassis. Also, that color is obnoxious. Repaint would be in order.
Yeah, they don't specify W124, but they fit perfectly (the C-class specified uses the same factory camber arm as the 124).

You should receive blue color, as shown in my photos. I've never received a set of pink ones. Nobody will see them unless the car is on a lift.

:mushroom1:
 
Re: FS: K-Mac adjustable rear camber kit


Yeah, they don't specify W124, but they fit perfectly (the C-class specified uses the same factory camber arm as the 124).

You should receive blue color, as shown in my photos. I've never received a set of pink ones. Nobody will see them unless the car is on a lift.

:mushroom1:
I bought two sets of these when I got rid of the RENNtech "subframe modification" (aka heim joints) on my 500E. Because that lowered the car I needed these for camber correction unless I wanted to go back to stock height, which I did not.

I agree with GSXR. Even though they don't specify W124 they [Megan Racing camber arms] are great for this fitment on lowered cars. Part no. MRS-MB-0310, which now show on eBay for $800 OBO, which is why I "hoarded" an extra set when I bought a couple years back. Car rides great with OE links and these for camber adjustment. Not even the purists who maintain my car cared about the color as much as the exceptional build quality.

maw
 
Another option for adjusting rear camber is to use eccentric bushings for the Chrysler Crossfire, which use the same OEM camber arm (basically the same chassis) as the R170 SLK. These replace the stock camber arm bushings.
Aaron, you never cease to amaze me with this kind of info! I had no idea the Crossfire had eccentric bushings available. I wonder how much adjustment is available... looks like these are aftermarket, not Chrysler OE/OEM?


:wahoo:

s-l1600.jpg
 
Not sure how much adjustment the aftermarket bushings give, but in theory, would using two eccentrics (replacing both bushings) on the upper camber arm double the range of adjustment? Mevotech also makes this (probably the same reboxed version), part number MS10459 available on RockAuto for $50...

EDIT: Product info page states +/- 1.25 degrees of adjustment.
 
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