I’ve noticed it takes quite a bit of effort to disengage the steering column lock sometimes when the car is shut off with the wheel turned. By effort, I mean trying moving the wheel left and right slightly to disengage the lock, so the key can actually be turned to start the car. I lubricated the tumbler assembly last year with graphite powder through the keyhole and the key operation itself is extremely smooth, with no noises or notchiness. So the only problem is the lock assembly not disengaging properly unless the steering wheel is perfectly straight. I did watch some of Uncle Kent’s videos about this, and he says the culprit of that symptom is the tumbler. He recommends removing and lubricating it, which I haven’t done yet. He makes no mention of the lock assembly causing issues. Could it possibly be just the tumbler not engaging the lock assembly smoothly because of dried up lubrication?
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Steering Wheel Lock Question
- Thread starter Joncf
- Start date
No load, just off center. For example, pulling into a parking space then turning the car off. If the steering wheel isn’t perfectly centered before turning the ignition off, it will get stuck for a few seconds when starting the car again. I’ve tried taking the load off the lock by turning the wheel while trying to start it, but that doesn’t seem to help. I usually end up jerking the wheel left and right a few times which frees it up.
It’s original as far as I know so I guess I should replace that first, or at least remove it to lubricate. It might not be disengaging the lock assembly smoothly because of the old hardened grease.
If the tumbler is original, I always recommend replacing with a new VIN-coded tumbler. And, use the new key provided as your primary key. There should be no lubricant needed for the new tumbler. This is a proactive replacement, as the tumblers can fail with little to no warning, and you are in a world of hurt if that happens.
If the problem remains with the new tumbler, I'd be awfully suspicious about the lock assembly (124-462-35-30). I've never had one fail but @Klink has mentioned this can be an issue. Don't know the usual symptoms though.
Is it a good idea to just replace the lock assembly anyway as a preventative measure?
happened to me a few years ago.i parked the car and I could not get the key out of the ignition no matter how hard I tried.i had to have it towed and whole lock assembly was changed.scary that it can happen without advance issues going on.
Yes, it would probably be good to change the lock assembly as preventive maintenance. But that is a big job. The part isn't terribly expensive but I think it's a few hours labor.
If you do this as DIY, be careful with the new lock. If you rotate the parts while loose in your hand without the electrical switch attached, it can render the lock useless (i.e., the assembly permanently locks up). See FSM job 46-8010, read the warning above step #7 at the top of page 5 of the PDF.
The tumbler swap takes 10-15 minutes and usually is painless, if you follow the instructions closely.
Ok. So if I replaced just the tumbler and the problem was actually the lock assembly, would there still be a risk of being stranded somewhere? Also, doesn’t the new lock assembly come with the switch installed?
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It's unlikely, but not impossible. Usually, the problem is when an old tumbler seizes without (much) warning. I don't know the typical failure mode of the lock assembly. (@jhodg5ck ? @Klink ?)
Nope. The electric switch is separate. I'd replace that too, while you're in there... incremental cost/labor, and the switches do wear out. Not fun to replace that switch by itself.
Just called my local dealership.. the VIN-coded tumbler is about $126 and another $36 for an extra key, which is pretty reasonable I think. I’ll replace that first and see what happens. Thanks once again for your help.It's unlikely, but not impossible. Usually, the problem is when an old tumbler seizes without (much) warning. I don't know the typical failure mode of the lock assembly. (@jhodg5ck ? @Klink ?)
Nope. The electric switch is separate. I'd replace that too, while you're in there... incremental cost/labor, and the switches do wear out. Not fun to replace that switch by itself.
I specifically asked the parts counter worker if the key came with and he said it doesn’t. I could tell that he’d never done this before so he probably wasn’t aware. I would have thought the software would have told showed it.
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Ah, got it. If it's a new person, they may not be aware. The software (EPC / XPISS) does not show the key is included. However, in order to test the tumbler after it's VIN-coded, they must cut a new key. After testing, they leave the key in the tumbler. Every tumbler I've purchase in the last 20 years has included a new VIN-coded key. But I've heard of dealers removing them, or charging extra.
Oh ok, I’ll make sure it’s included then. Hopefully they’ll leave it packaged up and not separate them.Ah, got it. If it's a new person, they may not be aware. The software (EPC / XPISS) does not show the key is included. However, in order to test the tumbler after it's VIN-coded, they must cut a new key. After testing, they leave the key in the tumbler. Every tumbler I've purchase in the last 20 years has included a new VIN-coded key. But I've heard of dealers removing them, or charging extra.
One more question.. is it best to order the removal tool from Uncle Kent, Autohaus or just attempt to make one?Ah, got it. If it's a new person, they may not be aware. The software (EPC / XPISS) does not show the key is included. However, in order to test the tumbler after it's VIN-coded, they must cut a new key. After testing, they leave the key in the tumbler. Every tumbler I've purchase in the last 20 years has included a new VIN-coded key. But I've heard of dealers removing them, or charging extra.
If you have wire coat hangers around, I'd make one. It's easy to fabricate if you have cutters that will snip the steel wire. The dimensions are shown in the FSM. File the ends so they aren't sharp, but still have a bevel for easy insertion.
The factory tools or the ones you can get cheaply on eBay are TOTALLY the way to go. Coat hangers are hit and miss as far as getting the angles correct on the ends. Having the purpose-made tool is MUCH less frustrating than trying to get a coat hanger right. Same with the tools that pull the instrument cluster out of the dashboard.
I wasn’t able to find either of those. The only ones on eBay I’ve seen are the same exact part that Autohaus sells, which are made by Baum.
