W124 wiring in Doors

[geraniumtr]

Folks, I just picked up my 94 E320 from the body shop after 4 months. Rust blister repair on all 4 doors plus antenna hole and trunk lid under chrome piece.
car looks very good. I think paint job came out quite well. I had removed the door cladding, door handles and interior door panels and antenna. When I picked the car up I realized the shop had removed the doors in order to do the repairs. The doors are fine but they didn’t route the wiring correctly. Bundle of seat switch wires were sticking out the bottom of the door instead of the top for instance. OK I rerouted everything correctly using photos from the internet. Got new plastic clamps to hold the wires to the door shell, etc. Oh, they also cut the 3 alarm wires because they couldn’t figure out how to unplug the connector. Using butt connectors I fixed that and alarm functions properly.

Problem is the windows only go done about half way then stop because some wiring is in the way. I’ve stuck my hand in the door shell trying like heck to push the wires out of the way but so far no luck.

Anybody have experience with this problem and can offer some advice. Thinking maybe to use a small mirror that I have to have a look at the wires. It’s one of those on an extendable shaft.

I don’t blame the shop too much. They’ve never worked on Mercedes. Finding a shop that does rust repair is not easy as you guys know.
I guess they could have taken pictures before taking the doors off.

Regards,
Peter Weissman

 

[gsxr]

It does sound like the window is hanging up on the wiring - don't force anything. As you noted, the door wiring must be routed in a specific location, AND is zip-tied in place so it can't move and interfere with the window. The only way I know to determine correct routing is to look at another car where the harness is in the original position. Don't suppose there are any junkyards near you with 124's...?

 

[northNH]

“Thinking maybe to use a small mirror that I have to have a look at the wires. It’s one of those on an extendable shaft.”

Wireless Endoscope, DEPSTECH Upgrade 5.0MP HD Inspection Camera, Scope Camera with Light, 16 inch Focal Distance, Semi-Rigid Snake Waterproof Borescope with 2200mAh Battery for iPhone & Android-16.5FT: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Wireless Endoscope, DEPSTECH Upgrade 5.0MP HD Inspection Camera, Scope Camera with Light, 16 inch Focal Distance, Semi-Rigid Snake Waterproof Borescope with 2200mAh Battery for iPhone & Android-16.5FT: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

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[ngenius1]

Hi.
Here is a photo of my door with wiring in place.

 

[geraniumtr]

Thank you for the photo. Immensely helpful.
Regards,
Peter Weissman

 

[geraniumtr]

OK folks all 4 windows are working properly. A small lighted extendable inspection mirror that I have did the trick. I was able to see that the wire bundles entering the front doors were routed in FRONT of the window guides instead of behind or below. The rear doors were much easier as there's only 1 bundle plus the vacuum line.

The front doors were quite a job. I had to disconnect everything except the vacuum line in order to reroute the bundles behind the window channel. In addition the mirror wire on the passenger side was wrapped around the large power seat wire bundle. That took a while as you're working blind with one hand stuck in the door. I then used a wire coat hanger to pull the power seat wires and mirror wire thru the proper hole at the top of the door. The alarm, courtesy lights and window wires just had to be zip tied at the appropriate places inside and on the face of the door shell.

It was a tedious and time consuming chore. A few scrapes and bruises on my hands of course.

Regards,

Peter Weissman