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W220 ABC Valve Block Rebuilding
- Thread starter JC220
- Start date
@JC220, please let me know how you come out on this. I’ve seen it discussed on the inter webs for too many years. But a trusted source will be an interesting twist. I bit the bullet on one of mine years ago, and can’t believe the second is too far off. There are a couple shops I may be able to convince to try this, or it may help me trust a rebuild.
maw
maw
No problem Maw. I did get very nice rebuild kits I'll provide link l, photos and description later.
I have a box of ABC spares now (bought another complete front ABC valve block too still to arrive) so will rebuild a rear valve first and give it to a friend.
Then I need to address the front valve block in my S600 which drops hard on one front wheel after a couple days now. Getting progressively worse and the struts and most hoses are all new condition dealer installed. So it has to be failing seals in the front valve block.
My S600 is getting a full ABC overhaul now too in terms of the little link rods for sensors from MB and another fluid flush at the same time. It is an impeccably maintained car thankfully so I want to keep that up!
I have a box of ABC spares now (bought another complete front ABC valve block too still to arrive) so will rebuild a rear valve first and give it to a friend.
Then I need to address the front valve block in my S600 which drops hard on one front wheel after a couple days now. Getting progressively worse and the struts and most hoses are all new condition dealer installed. So it has to be failing seals in the front valve block.
My S600 is getting a full ABC overhaul now too in terms of the little link rods for sensors from MB and another fluid flush at the same time. It is an impeccably maintained car thankfully so I want to keep that up!
I rebuilt two valve blocks on my 02 CL500. Not too hard. Just be sure to take pics of exactly how the block and the solenoids are before taking it apart. The hardest part I found was re-seating the valve solenoids back into the valve block. The new seals can make it a bear to push the solenoids into the block so you can turn them into final position. I really had to push down hard a couple times. Use new CHS11 or whatever its called as lubrication.
Thanks for that! Can I ask did you have the same issues of the car sagging on one or more corners?
And was this cured / improved after you re-sealed the blocks?
Hit my first snag. Two of the larger valves will not rotate even with pliers. Trying not to be too rough on them and marr up the plastic housing.
So I opted to pry out and remove the old decayed rubber seal/ boot and use a micro screwdriver to scrape out visible corrosion in the gap. Then squirted penetrating oil / rust disolver in that small gap and will re-apply for 24 hours before trying again tomorrow night.
I'm doing this one for my friend. It was from a CLK55 Kompressor so he wanted this particular valve block re-built into a rear bracket. I'll make a good job of it for him and blast / re-spray brackets + new hardware etc.
So I opted to pry out and remove the old decayed rubber seal/ boot and use a micro screwdriver to scrape out visible corrosion in the gap. Then squirted penetrating oil / rust disolver in that small gap and will re-apply for 24 hours before trying again tomorrow night.
I'm doing this one for my friend. It was from a CLK55 Kompressor so he wanted this particular valve block re-built into a rear bracket. I'll make a good job of it for him and blast / re-spray brackets + new hardware etc.
Here is a re-manufactured rear valve block. Not cheap. What do they cost new from M-B?
Mercedes W220 S600 CL55 AMG Rear Hydraulic Suspension Valve Block Remanufactured | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mercedes W220 S600 CL55 AMG Rear Hydraulic Suspension Valve Block Remanufactured at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
It seems so. But the ABC suspension is just sooooo good. Not sure why anyone would really want to delete it.
New I think dealer valve blocks are about 1800 usd but correct me if I'm wrong.
People want to delete it because they are paying inflated shop rates etc. If they had proper comprehension of the system and its needs + merits they would NOT delete it at all.
The spring kit still costs 4k so not really a huge saving. I bet that car the wizard had lilely would have been good with a ABC pump, flush and fluid change. No, instead pay $4k + wizards labour on top and "save" on potential ABC repair Bills in future.
The simple fact of the matter is these are flagship cars which require regular upkeep and the funds to cater to its needs.
People want to delete it because they are paying inflated shop rates etc. If they had proper comprehension of the system and its needs + merits they would NOT delete it at all.
The spring kit still costs 4k so not really a huge saving. I bet that car the wizard had lilely would have been good with a ABC pump, flush and fluid change. No, instead pay $4k + wizards labour on top and "save" on potential ABC repair Bills in future.
The simple fact of the matter is these are flagship cars which require regular upkeep and the funds to cater to its needs.
I have a large vise in my garage that very much helped hold the valve block (wrapped in a towel to avoid marring the alloy) while I removed and re-installed the solenoids. They can be a challenge to unseat. An option is to use a rubber strap wrench to avoid using steel pliers on a solenoid, but, again, a large vise is pretty useful working with the valve blocks.
As to the ABC suspension - as with any higher priced Mercedes, the non-standard suspensions are nice when the are maintained and working - ABC suspension or Airmatic. However, the ABC suspension is particularly challenging to keep in proper working order as the cars age and the cost to maintain - hydraulic lines, pumps, electronics, valve blocks, accumulators, rams, etc.. can really be very costly vs the value of the cars. Sorry - I would not want another ABC suspensioned car! Even a DIY'er like myself can only do so much on the ABC suspension and need to have a shop step in. W215 and W220 cars with ABC can easily require ABC maintenance at a cost significantly greater than the value of the car. If a conventional suspension is also pricey, then that will spell doom for many higher mileage ABC cars.
Even a simple ABC suspension fluid flush is expensive and a challenge and can be very messy.
As to the ABC suspension - as with any higher priced Mercedes, the non-standard suspensions are nice when the are maintained and working - ABC suspension or Airmatic. However, the ABC suspension is particularly challenging to keep in proper working order as the cars age and the cost to maintain - hydraulic lines, pumps, electronics, valve blocks, accumulators, rams, etc.. can really be very costly vs the value of the cars. Sorry - I would not want another ABC suspensioned car! Even a DIY'er like myself can only do so much on the ABC suspension and need to have a shop step in. W215 and W220 cars with ABC can easily require ABC maintenance at a cost significantly greater than the value of the car. If a conventional suspension is also pricey, then that will spell doom for many higher mileage ABC cars.
Even a simple ABC suspension fluid flush is expensive and a challenge and can be very messy.
I think its had some new accumulators yes. I'll have to check though which ones exactly. The thing is yes when one bursts the car could drop but when pumped back up woundnt it purge that gas and burp it out of the header tank? Thus causing a harsh ride quality with no damping but cant see that causing drop issues after shutdown.
I do have a later type valve block actually! This type
I might just instal that as is in the front of my S600 and do a rodeo, fluid change and filter change and see what happens. The updated MB valves of latest part number are said not to leak down
That was from a part car and I bet whoever had to install that paid a premium for it!
Of course I'll also have to carefully clean it and the ports - this is how I bought the box of parts I didnt remove them like that I would have been more careful.
I am also having a bear of a time on that ABC rebuild. The larger 2x valves still wont come out.
Got one to rotate freely but it will NOT come out at all even when prying it. Wasted hours on it at this point might have to give up on that one or try and attach a slide hammer somehow and give them hell when I'm sure its rotated to a position where they can withdraw.
Got one to rotate freely but it will NOT come out at all even when prying it. Wasted hours on it at this point might have to give up on that one or try and attach a slide hammer somehow and give them hell when I'm sure its rotated to a position where they can withdraw.
Yeah, I’ve never been sold on the “plug and play” nature of the valve block rebuild, which is why I just bought a new one, and will likely do it again when the time comes. I get it at cost, but that’s still a $1300 part. Before the 500E that would have been unconscionable but now I see it as the cost of ownership. Someone here has a signature quote that “Nice things cost money.”
On a related point about maintenance cost vs “value of the car” ... you have to be careful about this (not you, @JC220 obviously but “you” in the ubiquitous sense) because the ABC system here (and the SMG system in BMW World) get a bad rap by kids who can’t afford to take care of them. And they often cite “value of the car” to support their poverty opinion of the car, quite frankly. Just because some cannot afford to care for the system does not mean the system is poor. It just means perhaps you’re poor and the system is not for poor people. I’m not being elitist but if you have to stretch to get into the car, leave it alone and buy something you can afford to take care of. I drove Honda’s and Nissans until I could afford these cars without sacrificing the private school tuition, vacations and savings.
Pay your dues — no free lunches, quit bashing cars because you can’t afford the time, money or both it takes to properly maintain them. This is how I came to describe certain cars as NFK — “Not For Kids”... 500E, S55, S8, G55, Bentley, Alpina B7, Porsche GTS, all NFK.
$.02 rant over...
maw
On a related point about maintenance cost vs “value of the car” ... you have to be careful about this (not you, @JC220 obviously but “you” in the ubiquitous sense) because the ABC system here (and the SMG system in BMW World) get a bad rap by kids who can’t afford to take care of them. And they often cite “value of the car” to support their poverty opinion of the car, quite frankly. Just because some cannot afford to care for the system does not mean the system is poor. It just means perhaps you’re poor and the system is not for poor people. I’m not being elitist but if you have to stretch to get into the car, leave it alone and buy something you can afford to take care of. I drove Honda’s and Nissans until I could afford these cars without sacrificing the private school tuition, vacations and savings.
Pay your dues — no free lunches, quit bashing cars because you can’t afford the time, money or both it takes to properly maintain them. This is how I came to describe certain cars as NFK — “Not For Kids”... 500E, S55, S8, G55, Bentley, Alpina B7, Porsche GTS, all NFK.
$.02 rant over...
maw
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@JC220 I've been remiss, and don't want to continue to do so. You can buy these valve bodies already rebuilt for $400 (w/free shipping). I'm not sure if your were into the science project of it all, or just wanted rebuilt valve bodies. Of course, the problem would remain... you'd have to trust the rebuild. Maybe you trust it more if you do it, maybe not, but I wanted to share with you the resource. EBay seller "Autohubshop" keeps a lot of W220 parts on hand. I've used them multiple times. The chestnut wood on my S55 was rare at inception (basically custom order, mostly for 65's) and is basically unobtanium now, but I got a fresh set for the full interior from them for a "fugghetaboutit" price.
Cheers,
maw
Thanks for that! I did / do have an interest in rebuilding these myself I think it shouldn't be difficult and the kit I got is very good with updated springs and materials said to exceed OE quality.
The reason why I took into this one right now for a friend was this. He gave me the box of ABC spares in the tray and in return I rebuild him one rear ABC valve, give it back and I keep the rest. Hes happy and I'm happy with that. I bought the new seal kits etc.
That valve body above that wouldn't come out is stuffed. Rusted inside and the body is twisting before the valve is to those two valves need cut out and replaced. Stopped it there and took apart another one with same part numbers really easily so it will be rebuilt instead.
This all came about because I wanted to repair the issue in my S600 whereby the front end (one side in particular) drops after a coupe of days.
Turns out one of the valve blocks in the box my friend gave me is the updated MB type said to not leak half as much. Supposed to be updated parts.
So in this case I will rebuild one for my friend as per our deal then I'll clean and install the updated part on the front of my S600 and do a full ABC flush and Rodeo etc after and fingers crossed it will be happy after that.
It's Free shipping. The guys in the mbworld W220 AMG forum have been rebuilding them for years. And they talk about them like you do the second one. The rusted one was, well, rusted.
You may or may not have these (attached materials). Sagging after a few days may or may not be normal operation, depending upon whether you believe MB. I'm torn over all of this. I think I replaced one valve block prematurely, following MB published advice, and the other (still original, 15 years on) is just fine according to that same advice. But the symptoms are crazy. Sometimes it sags after 2 days; sometimes it doesn't sag for two weeks; sometimes it doesn't sag for two months. Which makes me loathe to condemn a $1300 part (dealer wholesale). There are so many places where a rubber seal can let nitrogen pass (spheres, struts, connections, the rubber itself), that swapping the block seems irrationally in the favor of MB.
Last summer, I figured it was time to swap out all the spheres on the S55 along with the ABC fluid and filter service. So I did. The first 2 months of cold weather, it would sag after a week, but I noticed the fluid also showed low. So I topped off over the winter until now, I haven't driven it in 2 weeks and no sagging. So who knows. I think after a while, these systems are heavily dependent upon (1) new fluid and filter; (2) temperature; (3) barometric pressure, and all the other things that effect the elasticity and porosity of rubber. Short of re-doing the whole thing (new lines, dampers, seals, blocks, sensors and struts), I don't go chasing trouble. When it sags overnight every night with all new fluid and spheres, or when there's fluid apparent on hardware or the floor, then it's a problem. Until then it's not.
TSB here (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/HighwayRepair/2010-10-05_044036_ACE_-_12.pdf).. for how to diagnose a failing valve block. Note “Condition 2”. And I'm sure you're well versed on the ABC system by now, but the "Treatise" is worth saving.
Cheers,
maw
You may or may not have these (attached materials). Sagging after a few days may or may not be normal operation, depending upon whether you believe MB. I'm torn over all of this. I think I replaced one valve block prematurely, following MB published advice, and the other (still original, 15 years on) is just fine according to that same advice. But the symptoms are crazy. Sometimes it sags after 2 days; sometimes it doesn't sag for two weeks; sometimes it doesn't sag for two months. Which makes me loathe to condemn a $1300 part (dealer wholesale). There are so many places where a rubber seal can let nitrogen pass (spheres, struts, connections, the rubber itself), that swapping the block seems irrationally in the favor of MB.
Last summer, I figured it was time to swap out all the spheres on the S55 along with the ABC fluid and filter service. So I did. The first 2 months of cold weather, it would sag after a week, but I noticed the fluid also showed low. So I topped off over the winter until now, I haven't driven it in 2 weeks and no sagging. So who knows. I think after a while, these systems are heavily dependent upon (1) new fluid and filter; (2) temperature; (3) barometric pressure, and all the other things that effect the elasticity and porosity of rubber. Short of re-doing the whole thing (new lines, dampers, seals, blocks, sensors and struts), I don't go chasing trouble. When it sags overnight every night with all new fluid and spheres, or when there's fluid apparent on hardware or the floor, then it's a problem. Until then it's not.
TSB here (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/HighwayRepair/2010-10-05_044036_ACE_-_12.pdf).. for how to diagnose a failing valve block. Note “Condition 2”. And I'm sure you're well versed on the ABC system by now, but the "Treatise" is worth saving.
Cheers,
maw
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Thanks for that and a very useful document for me to keep! I have folders for each car and keep all useful stuff In it
With you all the way regarding the import charges
I dont begrudge the shipping but its taxes on top of taxes
then fees to collect the taxes ruins things from the USA
Graeme Johnson
I dont begrudge the shipping but its taxes on top of taxes
then fees to collect the taxes ruins things from the USA
Graeme Johnson
"Engineering samples"?
This is a common means by which Chinese sellers get high value items into the U.S. My STAR system was shipped to me from Taiwan as an "engineering sample". It allows them to skirt the import duties.
Note: I am not advocating that anyone break the law or do anything that is even remotely questionable in this regard. Just providing information based on experience.
Dan
