WANTED Wanted - clicking / bad LH Module

[JC220]

I know there is an issue of the m119 / 500E LH modules going bad. We have seen it on the board a number of times. The capacitors in the LH modules can fail and this symptom is a clicking fuel pump relay. I'm sure a few members reading this might have one such bad module on the shelf.... if you do I would be grateful for a bad unit!!

I have spare capacitors on hand to try out. I will create a DIY of this repair on the board if someone can assist with a cadaver For clarity - I will not send the repaired unit back! But I may be able to offer UK members such a repair service in the future.....

 

[JC220]

Bumping this - if anyone has one they are willing to donate do please let me know

 

[Stevester 500E]

Does it have to be one that has the clicking syndrome or can it be one that works?

 

[JC220]

Does it have to be one that has the clicking syndrome or can it be one that works?

Ideally one that is faulty yes. Otherwise it might be a waste if time replacing good capacitors. And I would like to provide a DIY and demonstrate that a clicking LH can be repaired (hopefully)

 

[Stevester 500E]

Makes sense. I have a good LH WOT Module, it doesn't click.

 

[northNH]

I have a good LH WOT Module, it doesn’t click, and it’s FS @ $100 shipped.
Ironic to have trouble finding a broken part when you need it, no?

 

[JC220]

I have a good LH WOT Module, it doesn’t click, and it’s FS @ $100 shipped.
Ironic to have trouble finding a broken part when you need it, no?

Thanks for that but I myself have several spare LH modules too. It would be a waste of resources to take into a perfect working module IMO.

Who would have thunk it would be so hard to get a broken part! Sheesh I'll pay beer money for a bad module and obviously cover all postage costs.

 

[gerryvz]

Hi JC, I'll join the party and let you know that I have several "good" modules for sale, if you want one....

 

[JC220]

Hi JC, I'll join the party and let you know that I have several "good" modules for sale, if you want one....

This is not good enough Gerry - I want broken ones with no warranty

 

[r44raven]

Hi Joe,

I'm sure gsxr won't mind me mentioning, that I bought a WOT module from him a while back, which was "clicking" on arrival. I was unable to find anyone this side of the pond that could replace the capacitors, so I returned it to him - for which he supplied me with a replacement.

Maybe he's still got the "clicking" one laying around somewhere?

Might be worth PM'ing him?

Stephen

 

[Stevester 500E]

I have a working one that I could donate for the cause, but it comes with no warranty.
I don't think it is a waste to put new, upgraded capacitors in a working module.
You'll know if you didn't do a good job, as you might end up with a clicking module.
.....then you will have a clicking module......

 

[JC220]

I have a working one that I could donate for the cause, but it comes with no warranty.
I don't think it is a waste to put new, upgraded capacitors in a working module.
You'll know if you didn't do a good job, as you might end up with a clicking module.
.....then you will have a clicking module......

Thank you very much for the kind offer Stevester I'll pm you in a couple hours

Sounds like a DIY will be impending

 

[JC220]

Thank you very much for the kind offer Stevester I'll pm you in a couple hours

Sounds like a DIY will be impending

So far I didn't get a reply to the "conversation" so it appears this WTB is still alive!

Not terribly bothered about it - if anyone has one let me know. Preferably with the clicking defect!

 

[gerryvz]

There's GOT to be a hoarder here on the forum who kept their clicking unit.

 

[Christian_K]

What is with GSXR?

 

[Kyiv]

So, I think my fuel pump relay started clicking. It's just started, but it only happens when car is started 1st time in the morning in 5-6 C ambient. Goes away after few-several minutes. Hasn't clicked on a re-start. No drivability issues though... so not sure to the end... @JC220 do you still want one? Will you be keeping it after repair? (sorry for the silly question, I did not fully grasped what your intentions are)

 

[JC220]

So, I think my fuel pump relay started clicking. It's just started, but it only happens when car is started 1st time in the morning in 5-6 C ambient. Goes away after few-several minutes. Hasn't clicked on a re-start. No drivability issues though... so not sure to the end... @JC220 do you still want one? Will you be keeping it after repair? (sorry for the silly question, I did not fully grasped what your intentions are)

Hi Kiev,

That's a shame yours might be acting up

Yes I'm still looking for one. As described here I would like a faulty cadaver if anyone has one surplus for a small paypal gift (core charge if you like) and I'll of course cover shipping costs etc too.

I would rebuild it and if successful list the parts and step by step instructions on here as thanks and to help others.

It is 5L modules in particular and I would be retaining the repaired module for my own cars

 

[Kyiv]

@JC220, mate, I was gone from the country. I had 2 more first-time starts since returning with out clicking. So I'm not yet sure if my LH module is bad. I'm back for a while now and if the clicking resumes, I will let you know and send you my module.

 

[jhodg5ck]

I'm Pretttty sure I have some clickers... I need to check my notes/hopefully I wrote on it!

Will dig

 

[Kyiv]

@JC220, so I had 2 more starts and something does click loud under the rear right seat. It seems though that it happens at a temperature below 8C. Clicking does go away when throttle is depressed and goes away completely after a 1/4-1/2 miles of driving. I'll swap my original LH module (over the next 2-3 days) to see if that cures the issue, and if it does, if our friend above hasn't supplied you with it, I'll be happy to ship mine to you gratis.

Until I swap the unit, do you know if that is normal for the clicking to go away after short time of driving and for there to not be any drivability issues when the LH module is bad? Thanks

 

[JC220]

@JC220, so I had 2 more starts and something does click loud under the rear right seat. It seems though that it happens at a temperature below 8C. Clicking does go away when throttle is depressed and goes away completely after a 1/4-1/2 miles of driving. I'll swap my original LH module (over the next 2-3 days) to see if that cures the issue, and if it does, if our friend above hasn't supplied you with it, I'll be happy to ship mine to you gratis.

Until I swap the unit, do you know if that is normal for the clicking to go away after short time of driving and for there to not be any drivability issues when the LH module is bad? Thanks

Hi Kiev,

Thanks for the kind offer! If I were you I wouldn't drive the car too far from home with the postnetially faulty ECU incase it quits altogether on you (drops out the fuel pump signal) You could improvise this connection under the seat to get you going again but a situation best avoided perhaps.

Just to check is your ECU from your 400E? If so I dont think I'd be able to test the repair in my 500E

I will pm Jono now to see if any 5L ones turned up also

 

[Kyiv]

I though LH modules are the same between 400E and 500E. Mine's from a 1992 car with fuel enrichment. If I was wrong, sorry to give you false hope...

 

[JC220]

I though LH modules are the same between 400E and 500E. Mine's from a 1992 car with fuel enrichment. If I was wrong, sorry to give you false hope...

No problem- maybe I'm wrong and it is compatible... I'm sure the Gixer can clarify if he doesn't mind.

I have a 5L w124 and 5L w140 which would be subjects to test the repaired module in. Simply so I can see that the repair was successful.

 

[gsxr]

Until I swap the unit, do you know if that is normal for the clicking to go away after short time of driving and for there to not be any drivability issues when the LH module is bad? Thanks

IME, a failing module is more likely to click when cold, and the clicking may go away after it warms up. A really bad module will click all the time. You can do a stress test by placing the module in a freezer overnight, then installing it in a vehicle & starting it up. If it doesn't click with the module at 0°F (-18°C), I'd say it's good. The freezer test is helpful when testing in warmer ambients (summertime, SoCal, etc).

I though LH modules are the same between 400E and 500E. Mine's from a 1992 car with fuel enrichment. If I was wrong, sorry to give you false hope...

The modules are different between 4.2L and 5.0L (different fuel programs), and also the USA-spec 400E modules are different than Euro because the trans starts in 1st gear and there is an additional electrical output on the USA 400E modules for a separate cold upshift delay relay. You can interchange them for testing purposes, but obviously it isn't recommended to leave the wrong module in the car long term. If a USA-spec 400E module is installed in a 500, it will store a fault code because the USA-spec, .034-only K29/1 relay is not present. This isn't a big deal of course, just clear the code after installing the module in the 400E.

 

[Kyiv]

@JC220 sorry mate

 

[Kyiv]

Guys, who is "Jono", what is his nick name here? He rebuilds LH modules, yes?

 

[Jlaa]

Guys, who is "Jono", what is his nick name here? He rebuilds LH modules, yes?

Jono is @jhodg5ck - WANTED - Wanted - clicking / bad LH Module