Winter Storage

[Prime]

I'm hoping to get advice here about storing a car for the winter. I'm at the point now where my 500E stays in the garage when the snow flies; however, it still needs to be accessible on the rare occasion that I might need it in a pinch. So I suppose I'm asking two questions here:

1) What precautions should be taken when the car will see very limited use for several months at a time? For example, is it safe to add Sta-Bil to the tank? How often should I start it up and for how long should I let it run? Should I invest in a trickle charger?

2) What are the accepted methods for putting a car away for storage when it will be out of commission for several months without the chance of needing it?

I know when I was a kid my dad had an old MGB which he stored for the winters. I recall that he used to pull the plugs and squirt a little oil in the top of each cylinder, then replace the plugs loosely for the storage period. He would pull the battery and bring it inside to the heated basement where it sat on a trickle charger. The car was up on jack stands while stored (what's the common wisdom of this vs. keeping the suspension under load?)

Anything else related to cold-weather storage would be welcome, including tips and procedures for putting it back into service in the Spring!

 

[DerFuror]

Should I invest in a trickle charger?

Yes. Battery Tender Jr. is among the best available. I've been using them successfully on my car & motorcycle batteries for years. You can attach the included "plug-in" harness to your battery clamps to make connect/disconnect a breeze. Perfect for any long or short-term storage situation.

(It's pretty tough, too. I drove the '93 over one . Resoldered one connection & reglued the case. Back to work it went).

 

[gsxr]

Definitely use a good trickle charger, like the Battery Tender Jr., or similar. For only a few months storage, there's no need to mess with the engine at all, other than making sure the coolant has adequate freeze protection. I wouldn't put it on jackstands, but I'd probably air up the tires to near the max pressure rating. Sta-Bil is optional and IMO, not necessary for <6 months of storage. But it wouldn't hurt. Personally, I would not start it at all while stored, unless you are able to take it out and drive it for at least 10-15 minutes to get all fluids to operating temp. If you can't do that, just don't start it until you're ready to bring it out of hibernation in the spring.

 

[J-Sauce]

Jacking up the car is more to avoid flat spots on the tires than to unload the suspension. I would do it even if the car was only going to be stored 3-4 months.

 

[2phast]

With my 911, it was stored in my garage for 6-9 months of the year. I always kept it covered with a trickle charger on it. Once a week I would start it up and let it idle up to normal temps. I would also move it either forward or backward to avoid flat spotting the tires.

 

[gerryvz]

There are a selection of chargers & tenders at Griot's Garage that are of good quality -- www.griotsgarage.com

Although you can get them cheaply and easily at a plethora of places.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

The tires should not permanently flat-spot when stored for months - maybe if stored for years, but not months. Yeah, they'll vibrate a bit when you first drive it, but it should go away within about 10 miles or so. Rolling the car a bit forward or backwards periodically can help if you don't mind doing that.

But I'd rather deal with tire issues than risk bushing damage from having the car on jackstands for extended periods. MB suspension bushings are designed to be under zero tension at normal ride height (full weight of car on the wheels). Jacked up with no weight on the wheels, the bushings will be under maximum stress. Not a good idea if the car will be like that for months at a time...

 

[jano]

A similar question was brought up on a different car-forum that I used to frequent before I got back into MBZs. The general school of thought was starting up the ending and allowing it to idle, and/or revving while idling is generally not a good idea. It'd be better to take the car for a 10-20 minute spin instead if possible. I do not recall why, sorry.

 

[Glen]

As Jano mentioned, if you are only going to let it idle then it's probably not a good idea. The reason is that one of the byproducts of engine combustion is water. All you will be doing is putting water into the exhaust system and oil which can cause rust and corrosion. So, unless you drive the car for a good half hour to get everything hot enough to evaporate the water you will do more harm than good.

 

[Glen]

Oh, and to combat flat spotting bump up the tire pressure to max (listed on sidewall) during storage. It's easy enough to lower the pressure if you need the car unexpectedly.

 

[spaceman_west]

SUMMER storage question in MIAMI.
Leaving the car there over the summer. Won't be driving it for a few months.
Anything to be careful about with the salty air?
The apartment building is on the intercostal.
The car is parked on the first floor under an open air parking garage with the cover on.

 

[sheward]

Although I don't like my cars to sit for more than 3 weeks without use I think it will be well protected from salt air by a good cover in the deck. I would try to get someone to take it for a ride once a month or so.

Drew

 

[spaceman_west]

thanks drew. i will.
i was more worried about the hot miami summers mixed with corrosion from the salty air.

 

[bb1]

Best place to keep it, closed garage/storage! Even with good cover, underbody is still open and wind and salt will blow true... and salt will be found everywhere, even on the roof under the cover too!

Hide it somewhere inside, little bit more tirepressure, not a totally full Gastank!! (In hot Sommer down here the gas will expand and start to drip out), 2/4 windows a little bit down for breathing, unplug the battery and let it just sit with cover on!