Won't start

[silanga]

My '92 has been running fine for years (165k mi). Then last Saturday morning when I tried to start it cranked over as normal and almost caught and then died. The second attempt it cranked normally but was never close to starting and it hasn't started since. I replaced the rotors and caps even though they were in good shape. Replaced the crank sensor and still no spark at the plugs. They smell of fuel when you remove them. I put some Chevron Technoline injector cleaner in the fuel maybe a week ago which is the only thing I've changed recently.

I'm starting to look for a replacement E-Gas control unit 1245450732 to replace next. After that I may move to the Ignition Control Module 0135456432. Starting to look expensive. I have not pulled any codes from the car. Are there any troubleshooting ideas here and/or parts opinions new vs remanufactured vs used?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[gerryvz]

MUST pull codes from the car, and analyze them before you throw any more parts at it.

You may well have a bad EZL or coils, but before you go at it pull the codes. Do you have a homemade code reader?

Have you replaced the upper wiring harness? If you haven't, you very much should even if just to baseline it. The harness at your mileage and age is likely to be bad, if it hasn't been replaced. There's a post here on the board about where and how to check the date of your harness. A new harness is an important piece of insurance against the failure of other components in the system, because a bad harness does have the potential to "fry" the car's computers. Usually a harness problem will be evidenced by wonky/erratic running conditions, dash lights lighting up, etc.

EZLs tend to go out quite suddenly, dead as a doornail. One day the EZL works, the next day it's dead. When they go, either the engine won't run at all, or only one bank (4 cylinders) will run.

E-GAS units don't go out that much, so I'd back burner that until you have looked at other things. E-GAS controls the ETA, cruise control, etc. as its main function.

You can get LH and EZL units, if one of them turns out to be the problem, rather cheaply...much cheaper than MB prices. Folks here have those things for sale used for reasonable prices (in the hundreds of dollars rather than thousands as MB does).

Cheers
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

Jeff,

Ditto pretty much everything Gerry said. First up is to check all the fuses, including the ones on the Basic Module in the CAN box. Next is to check codes on all 6 modules, clear them, and see which ones return after you attempt to start the car (major codes should be stored during cranking, even if the car never starts). This should help you pinpoint the cause. The car can start and run with a dead E-GAS module or ETA, so it's not likely either of those are the cause.

With no spark, I'm suspicious of the EZL but checking codes should help pinpoint the problem. If the EZL isn't getting a signal from the other modules, it may not provide spark as a safety precaution. I have a good used 013-545-64-32 EZL for sale if you end up needing one, btw. I would not buy a new EZL unless cost is irrelevant (they are currently $3,570 MSRP). If the EZL is bad, the coils MUST be replaced at the same time. Failing coils can kill the EZL, MB will not warranty a new EZL unless there is proof that the coils were replaced at the same time. Just FYI. New Bosch coils are approx $100/ea, $200/pair (different numbers for left & right).

Check / clear / re-check the codes and let us know what you find...

 

[gerryvz]

One more thing to do initially ... check your battery to be sure it's charged, and that the connections are not corroded. This especially pertains to the positive connector. The smaller, adjunct red wire that is attached to the main, large + battery lead provides all power directly from the battery to the CAN box. If you have a weak battery or charging system, then the CAN box (car's computers) won't be getting the power they need to pass information to each other, and to run the car.

So in addition to the fuses, check battery voltage. Hopefully it's in the high 12V or low-mid 13V range. If it's below about 12.5 volts, you may not have enough power to run things. Inspect + and - battery terminals/connections carefully with a flashlight.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[szvook]

Check the leads to the alternator. A few years ago, my car also wouldn't start and it turned out to be gunky leads. A good cleaning cured the starting issue.

 

[silanga]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I replaced the upper wiring harness a couple years ago. It was amazing it lasted so long. I bought the car from RAB in Northern California in 1998 and have been a happy owner ever since.

 

[silanga]

We changed out the EZL control module and the car started right up. Good call. We'll change out the coils as suggested and I will continue my journey in the 500E. There was a little moisture (oil) in the distributor caps which I replaced. Is this cause for concern down the line?

Thanks to you all.

 

[gerryvz]

The M119 distributor caps can get some moisture in there depending on your climate. This eventually will corrode out and such, but as long as you keep them clean and inspected from time to time, you should be good.

Your situation sounded very much like an EZL. I also experienced same, while my car was in a parking lot when I went into a store. Came out, and BAM, only running on 4 cylinders. Sounded like a friggin Subaru.

Good on ya.

 

[gsxr]

I thought the same, but didn't want to jump to conclusions without more data.

Did you get a new EZL or a used one, btw?

 

[silanga]

A used EZL for $900.

 

[gerryvz]

You should be able to get a used 500E-compatible EZL for $300-500.