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OWNER - e500.org

e500.org

E500E Guru
Member
Hello all

Finally put down a deposit on a 1992 500E in 744 silver with full black leather. I live in London, United Kingdom and the car has recently come from Japan. I have bought it unseen and the car is currently being registered on UK number plates.

Can anyone decode the VIN? Keen to see whether it was a German or Japan market car originally. WDB1240361B744547.

Photos are attached below. The car has various Lorinser bits - front and rear bumpers, exhaust backbox, speedo, steering wheel, gearknob, kick plates and 19" split alloys. Not sure how much is genuine but can't imagine there are many replica 500E specific parts made by Lorinser. The car also appears to have modified intake hoses but the engine looks reasonably clean.

I'm hoping to get it mechnically restored including full service (oils, filters, gearbox oil, diff oil), suspension and ARB bushes, spring replacement, new discs and pads etc.

I hope to add an ASR defeat switch, FGS module for traffic light grand prix and potentially Porsche 996 brakes (anyone know how to fit these). I will also be changing the front indicator lenses and side repeaters to orange.

I should be collecting in a week or two, but for now here are a few photos :-)

500E's are quite rare in the UK but thanks to some car dealers importing a few over they are still for sale from time to time. I did see another E500 Limited (1995) from Japan in the UK however it was in real poor condition.

Comments welcome!

Cheers,

Bill

As of 16/08/2015:


- Full service (oil x4 (Shell Helix 10w40), oil filter x4, air filters x2, fuel filter replaced once)
- Fluids replaced - coolant, gearbox oil and filter and diff oil changed
- Plugs replaced with MB plugs on 28/03 at 172k
- Beru rotor arms replaced
- Beru ignition leads replaced x8
- MB engine intake hoses replaced x2
- MB headlight and windscreen wipers replaced (MB)
- Rear light lenses replaced with smoked facelift items (aftermarket)
- MB fuel pressure regulator replaced
- MB crankshaft breather hoses all replaced due to brittle cracking
- MB washer bottle & accessories (inc 1 new washer pump)
- MB SLS resevior and accessories replaced
- MB coolant resevior replaced
- Replaced bottom coolant hose (MB)
- Replaced shock mounts (MB)
- Replaced engine mounts (Lemforder)
- Replaced transmission mount (MB)
- Rainbow W124 front speakers fitted (rear wiring needs attention)
- Replaced number plates at MB dealer
- Replaced MB brake discs/pads/sensors all around
- Replaced MB aux resister for aux fans
- Replaced MB number plate lenses
- Replaced brake hoses with precision braided brake hoses
- Replaced coil leads x2
- Replaced serpentine belt (MB)
- Replaced serpentine belt tensioner
- Replaced distributor cap plastic covers x2

Various other bits and pieces replaced (oil cap, rubber parts, clips, bolts etc)

Things to do as of 16/08/2015:

Mechanical 2016


- Replace both fuel pumps and clips
- Replace propshaft boot bearing
- Replace distributor caps (MB/Bosch only)
- Replace distributor rear insulators (MB/Bosch only)
- Brake fluid flush and full bleed. Adjust metal hoses.
- Replace rocker cover gaskets (purchased)
- Replace prop donuts (1 purchased)
- Replace pollen filter
- Replace front and rear shock absorbers (Koni/Bilstein)
- Replace springs with H&R lowering kit (stiffer)
- Replace front and rear complete suspension bushes and arms
- Replace steering idler arm bushing
- Replace backbox hangers (purchased)
- Replace backbox nuts, bolts and gasket (purchased)
- Full wheel alignment/tracking (once the suspension is complete)
- Tint front and rear windows (rear full tint, front legal tint)
- ASR defeat wired in and centre console panel cut out (or place in speaker fader position)

Cosmetic 2016


- Full repaint in 744 Brilliant Silver along with door shuts and all panels off car
- Repaint door handles, grill insert, wiper arm and plastics, rear boot plastic handle and headlight wipers in satin black
- Replace boot seal (perished)
- Split and refurbish AMG/OZ 17" alloy wheels - silver painted centers and polished lips and bolts
- Replace upper and lower Ariel seals
- Replace sunroof seal
- Replace rear windscreen
- Replace fog light lenses x2
- Replace rubber wing mirror boots
- Replace window trims x4
- Replace pedals with MB sport metal pedals
- Fit fire extinguisher to drivers seat (purchased)
- Fit Lorinser rear spoiler and replace light bulbs

Cosmetic/Mechnical 2017 - future plans


- Fit Recaro C Classic black leather front seats
- Fit thicker rim steering wheel for better driving experience (Victor?)
- Replace front and rear entry door sills
- MB fridge fitted and wired in (due to lack of armrest with Recaro's)
- Alcantera headlining and pillars retrim
- Remove and steam clean carpets
- Re-wire audio throughout professionally and fit rear bench Rainbow speakers, upgrade subwoofer and amp
- Big brake kit front and rear (badly needed but serious expense so can wait unless something attractive comes up)
 

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Re: OWNER - e500.org - 1992 500E in the UK.

Congratulations! Nice car. Those Lorinser pieces are indeed somewhat rare. I like the front and rear valences. I've always thought the wheels looked nice on an 036 as well. Looks to be in nice shape from the photos. There are easier brake upgrades than 996/Porsche setups for the same or less money. +1 on changing the lenses back.

drew
 
Re: OWNER - e500.org - 1992 500E in the UK.

... potentially Porsche 996 brakes (anyone know how to fit these).
If you want to use Porsche brakes, plan on lots of R&D, custom-fabricated brackets, custom hoses, and probably custom rotors too. Most likely the ROI will be terrible. I remember several people wanting to do this in the past, but don't recall anyone actually completing the project. Then you have the gamble of hoping the caliper piston sizes and swept area is a good match for the 500E master cylinder, and that the bias is acceptable, etc. This isn't an area where I'd want to reinvent the wheel.

Best bang for the buck upgrade is the factory Silver Arrow kit (bolt-on, but not cheap, and you'll need new/late LCA's up front). If cost is not a concern check out StopTech (front only) or MovIt (front+rear) kits. With a stock engine, the Silver Arrow is probably all the power you need for non-Autobahn speeds.

:bbq:
 
Hello all

Can anyone decode the VIN? Keen to see whether it was a German or Japan market car originally. WDB1240361B744547.











Bill

Beautiful looking car!! I don't speak German but the Cruise Control lever appears to be in German. Would that mean it is German? What other languages do we see on MB?
 
Here is a screen shot of your data card. Interesting that it indicates 744 Dark Blue soft top and 682 Fire extinguisher.
Most of the color code descriptions in the EPC are incorrect, and this is another example. 744 = Brilliant Silver Metallic. 682 really is the factory fire extinguisher option, though.

:matrix:
 
Love the Lorinser touch on the car. Makes it a little different from the normal 036, but not too much.
 
Car is very nice.


I would get the correct air filter housing intake hoses.

Around $100 online.

Here is what they look like on Gerry's car




proxy.php
 
Cheers all.

Thanks - where can I order these from? Do you have a part number? I will be ordering quite a few bits from MB once the car is with me so they'll be on the list :)
 
The current part number for the intake tubes is 119 090 14 82, and of course, two tubes are required.

In the US, the official MB retail price is around USD $72 each, so I'd expect them to be around GBP 50 each in the UK, perhaps a bit less?

It's an often overlooked part that really will freshen up the engine compartment. Just don't put any "bro shine" on the tubes :agree:

Some years ago, I did a "HOW-TO" article on the replacement of these tubes. It's a long and drawn-out process. Even 2Phast said it was three-hour replacement job !!

The HOW-TO is located here: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Bondavi had the same "Lost in Space" robot arms intake tubes.

This 036 deserves better.

Found the picture of Boondavi's set up

proxy.php
 
Last edited:
500e.org you mentioned wanting to add a FGS module but in the picture of your shift console it appears that you have the W/S FGS switch factory option already installed there? Maybe you didn't realize or it is possible I am mistaken but that is what it looks like. Maybe a nice surprise?! ;)
 
Last edited:
500e.org you mentioned wanting to add a FGS module but in the picture of your shift console it appears that you have the have the W/S FGS switch factory option already installed there? Maybe you didn't realize or it is possible I am mistaken but that is what it looks like. Maybe a nice surprise?! ;)

Premature auto elation there. :doh:

The European market W/S switch on these cars does not produce FGS, it simply calls up an even lazier transmission response mode for wet/winter operation. Later chassis cars with the electronically controlled five speed transmission do have selectable FGS with that same switch, and some enthusiasts have installed FGS modules, which they switch off and on by retrofitting the euro version WS switch, hence the confusion...
 
I know, those dang tubes have absolutely NO shelf life !!

And BTW, before you pop off too much, get a triple yoinker, like me and then you'll have some REAL chops.....
 
I know, those dang tubes have absolutely NO shelf life !!

And BTW, before you pop off too much, get a triple yoinker, like me and then you'll have some REAL chops.....

You've been Yoinked several times, and don't even know it. A true Yoink is the one you don't notice.
 
Klink is correct... the Euro-spec 124.036 came with the E/S switch, but the other setting is an "economy" mode with early upshifts. US-spec cars deleted the switch and are always in the standard/sport mode, or whatever you like to think the "S" means.

Additional details on the 124 E/S switch operation are at this thread:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2200

:pc1:
 
Good HOW TO

Clark:

I agree, it was one of the most detailed write ups on the Internet.
The depth of detail is unsurpassed even 'till this day. When I first read it I thought Ken HIMSELF contributed to, if not authored the complete tome.
I can only imagine (although I'd actually rather not...) how Gerry gripped that old wrinkled black thing and yanked it repeatedly until he got it off. Not once but twice, in a short period of time no less !!!!
If you look carefully the old ones were very hard and inflexible but when Gerry finished they were quite soft.
Once completed I have no doubt that he had a smile on his face, as would anyone for a job well done. The oooh's and ahhh's that would be heard when he opened up his compartment to expose his powertrain leaves many jealous I bet.
But since I am 60 years old it took me, probably through lots of experience, much less than 3 hours to complete the job at hand.
I have a beautiful pic of a 6L 32V 117 on my wall to serve as inspiration with jobs like these.

Kind Regards,

Ron
 
some enthusiasts have installed FGS modules, which they switch off and on by retrofitting the euro version WS switch, hence the confusion...
+1 :agree: Its how I wired up my BergWerks FGS to switch between "sport" and "economy" modes on the FGS programming. I use another switch in the center console wood (between the rear windows switches) to turn the actual FGS on and off.
 
Clark:

I agree, it was one of the most detailed write ups on the Internet.
The depth of detail is unsurpassed even 'till this day. When I first read it I thought Ken HIMSELF contributed to, if not authored the complete tome.
I can only imagine (although I'd actually rather not...) how Gerry gripped that old wrinkled black thing and yanked it repeatedly until he got it off. Not once but twice, in a short period of time no less !!!!
If you look carefully the old ones were very hard and inflexible but when Gerry finished they were quite soft.
Once completed I have no doubt that he had a smile on his face, as would anyone for a job well done. The oooh's and ahhh's that would be heard when he opened up his compartment to expose his powertrain leaves many jealous I bet.
But since I am 60 years old it took me, probably through lots of experience, much less than 3 hours to complete the job at hand.
I have a beautiful pic of a 6L 32V 117 on my wall to serve as inspiration with jobs like these.

Kind Regards,

Ron

My thoughts exactly, I just didn't know how to articulate it as well as you did.

So I remained silent sadly.

It's as if you read my mind in fact.............;)
 
Quite sadly, I must say....not everyone can jerk those tubes off and come to a happy ending with this job, and do it two times in under 15 minutes like I did.
 
They say the human heart only has so many beats regardless of whether one exercises or not. I wonder if the same is true for jerking off these black tubes?
 
I really like the lorinser upgrades and would definitely keep the cluster... Yes it looks a bit naff but it goes with the rest of the Lorinser look...

I dont like the wheels, im sure Lorinser did some staggered wheels for the 129/500E
 
I really like the lorinser upgrades and would definitely keep the cluster... Yes it looks a bit naff but it goes with the rest of the Lorinser look...

I dont like the wheels, im sure Lorinser did some staggered wheels for the 129/500E

Cheers Jay - thanks for the compliment. Are you taking your E500 out anytime soon? Would be nice to meet you and talk cars :)
 
Hey all. So after a 600 mile round trip the 500E is back home with me :D:D:D

The car is very very good (probably one of the better 500E's) but not perfect as it developed a rough idle once I drove it pretty hard on the test drive. The interior lights also don't work (so no instrument cluster or console switch lights - I had a pitch black journey home). Suppose I was quite excited and knew this was the one I wanted so we negotiated on the price and I drove home. To say I'm delighted is an understatement! The 500E is everything I wanted and more :D

So I will be giving it a full service, probably next weekend. It drove 300 miles straight down without fault (with a few naughty brushes of the throttle this thing builds speed, fast) but as soon as you get to standstill there is a misfire/rough idle. My first port of call will be the distributor caps and rotor arms and go from there. Probably good idea to get it plugged in, it's not been serviced/touched since Japan and who knows how long it's been left without a service.

The wiring harness looks to have been changed, the cables at the top look nice and fresh. There is a minor oil leak which I could see from underneath so this will be checked.

The interior is in mint condition and to my surprise everything works, all the seats, blower motor, heated seats, sunroof, sunshade, everything is super smooth :)

The exterior is very good, some of the panels have some crazing as if it's been through a million car washes but I'm not too fussed as it's a project car and will be stunning by the summer with some paintwork, potentially a full repaint in 744.

All in all I'm happy and looking forward to getting stuck it!

Few things:

1. anyone have any ideas about the interior lights? Instrument cluster and all functions work (heated seat button light up when pressed) but no back illumination lights for the buttons and no backlight for the instrument cluster - I've checked fuses to no avil. Could this be the actual dimmer switch on the cluster itself? Do the 500E's have a cluster dimmer?
2. anyone know a good MB specialist in the London area? I don't mind travelling but things like gearbox oil / fuel filters etc I probably wouldn't tackle at home due to lack of resources
3. any ideas on the rough idle? There is also a strong smell of fuel at times so I think it's overfuelling.
4. what is the best oil for the car? Given it's not been changed for a long time I want something safe. Opieoils recommends 5w40 fully synthetic for the W124 E500.

I have ordered the following today - air, oil, pollen and fuel filters, distributor caps and rotor arms. I have an ever growing list of bits to get from MB - headlight wipers, passenger mirror boot and intake hoses for now. I will be replacing all the speakers and the stereo shortly too.

Here are a few photos, the air filters looked like they had not been changed in a very long time which tells me the car has not been maintained as it should...









Last service seems to be 2009 - the car is now showing 171,000km.




Cheers,

Bill
 
Congratulations, I really like this car. Judging from the lack of maintenance the tune up items may solve the rough idle. The cluster does have a dimmer. Try moving it (pencil sized knob in the cluster). If that has no result, it could be the fuse behind the cluster or the rheostat behind the dimmer needs cleaning. Both fixes will require pulling the cluster out which is a fairly easy job and documented here on the board.

drew
 
Congratulations, I really like this car. Judging from the lack of maintenance the tune up items may solve the rough idle. The cluster does have a dimmer. Try moving it (pencil sized knob in the cluster). If that has no result, it could be the fuse behind the cluster or the rheostat behind the dimmer needs cleaning. Both fixes will require pulling the cluster out which is a fairly easy job and documented here on the board.

drew
Drew

Thanks for the input - I think I will replace the fuse on the cluster and the dimmer switch, will buy the parts from MB this weekend. Yes, I think the mini service should cure a few issues. The car is also going into a well known London MB specialist for a full inspection to check over the car and replace anything that needs fixing.

Cheers

Bill
 
Usually, a sticky dimmer switch can be brought back to life by moving the twist knob back and forth (lock to lock) about 10-15 times in rapid succession. The contact gets oxidized and just needs to be brought back to fresh metal on the contacts.

If no joy, then replace. They are not horribly expensive to buy, but it's also a nice junkyard part to have on hand.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Usually, a sticky dimmer switch can be brought back to life by moving the twist knob back and forth (lock to lock) about 10-15 times in rapid succession. The contact gets oxidized and just needs to be brought back to fresh metal on the contacts.

If no joy, then replace. They are not horribly expensive to buy, but it's also a nice junkyard part to have on hand.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Gerry. Is the dimmer switch the one on the left or right? One resets the trip meter when pressed in and the other changes the time. I was messing around with the right hand side one but I suspect this is the wrong one?!

Cheers

Bill
 
I believe the right side one controls the needles on the clock. The left-side one controls the trip odometer (pushed in, as you say) and dimming (when rotated axially).

Cheers,
Gerry
 
1. anyone have any ideas about the interior lights?

Sounds like dimmer switch. If you arent bothered about it dimming you can jump the switch by just placing a wire across the two copper strips... Its clear once the cluster is out. Otherwise you can buy new dimmers...
Whilst its out I recommend changing the dash bulbs for slightly brighter, makes a huge difference... I think the stock ones are 4w, I changed mine to 5w when I replaced my dimmer...


2. anyone know a good MB specialist in the London area? I don't mind travelling but things like gearbox oil / fuel filters etc I probably wouldn't tackle at home due to lack of resources


Terry at Wayne Gates is the man... Very helpfull. Otherwise there are people like Colin Ferns and some others mentioned on the forums or Merc club directory.

3. any ideas on the rough idle? There is also a strong smell of fuel at times so I think it's overfuelling.

I would place all bets on rotor arms and caps. OEM brands only.. i boought from MB but Bosch or Beru from Euro Car Parts will also do just fine.
If you are like me then you will replace these crucial parts every few years anyway.
Also recommend a set of leads whilst you are there. I went for Magnecor. UK franchise is near me and the owner is a friend of mine. Top quality and will never need changing again.

4. what is the best oil for the car? Given it's not been changed for a long time I want something safe. Opieoils recommends 5w40 fully synthetic for the W124 E500.

I would go 10w40 Fully Synthetic. I use Shell Helix.
 
Cheers Jay - thanks for the compliment. Are you taking your E500 out anytime soon? Would be nice to meet you and talk cars :)

Hi, I do use mine regularly but working 7 days means I dont get a lot of time. I do plan to go to the Mercedes Club W124 day this year.. Hoping to take the E500 and also my 3.4 AMG TE Estate.
 
Drew

Thanks for the input - I think I will replace the fuse on the cluster and the dimmer switch, will buy the parts from MB this weekend. Yes, I think the mini service should cure a few issues. The car is also going into a well known London MB specialist for a full inspection to check over the car and replace anything that needs fixing.

Cheers

Bill

It's all here , post 6 shows back of cluster :
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4741
 
1. anyone have any ideas about the interior lights?

Sounds like dimmer switch. If you arent bothered about it dimming you can jump the switch by just placing a wire across the two copper strips... Its clear once the cluster is out. Otherwise you can buy new dimmers...
Whilst its out I recommend changing the dash bulbs for slightly brighter, makes a huge difference... I think the stock ones are 4w, I changed mine to 5w when I replaced my dimmer...


2. anyone know a good MB specialist in the London area? I don't mind travelling but things like gearbox oil / fuel filters etc I probably wouldn't tackle at home due to lack of resources


Terry at Wayne Gates is the man... Very helpfull. Otherwise there are people like Colin Ferns and some others mentioned on the forums or Merc club directory.

3. any ideas on the rough idle? There is also a strong smell of fuel at times so I think it's overfuelling.

I would place all bets on rotor arms and caps. OEM brands only.. i boought from MB but Bosch or Beru from Euro Car Parts will also do just fine.
If you are like me then you will replace these crucial parts every few years anyway.
Also recommend a set of leads whilst you are there. I went for Magnecor. UK franchise is near me and the owner is a friend of mine. Top quality and will never need changing again.

4. what is the best oil for the car? Given it's not been changed for a long time I want something safe. Opieoils recommends 5w40 fully synthetic for the W124 E500.

I would go 10w40 Fully Synthetic. I use Shell Helix.

Thank you Jay. I have ordered 5w40 Fully Synthetic, I think it'll be fine though. Thanks for the tip on Wayne Gates, heard similar (good) things about Terry there online so the car will be going there in 2 weeks time for a full inspection so I can see what other bits and pieces need doing.

Jay - I can't see the 500E Magnecor leads - do you have a part number or do you sell them?

Cheers,
Bill
 
Warning: If you pull your instrument cluster, BE SURE YOU DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DOING SO. If you don't, you risk electrically damaging gauges in your cluster.
 
Cheers Gerry - instrument cluster tools ordered from MB online so will be tackling this next weekend. A few bits ordered from MB today - the intake hoses for the engine, the dimmer switch behind the speedo, new bulbs, fuse for the speedo and a few engine bay plastics and seals that didn't look "right". I'm tempted to buy a few other bits and pieces such as fire extinguisher, brake discs and pads but I think I can buy things like this from other places for much less £££.

Once the car is running OK and mechanically right (should be going in for full fluids flush, gearbox oil replacement, diff oil replacement and any bushes replaced) then I will begin to perfect the car and make it 100%. I have decided to go for a full repaint in the summer.

I have also ordered Beru ignition leads after both reading them up online here and finding a set for about £180. Probably more than I should have paid but didn't bother saving little bits here and there and wanted them pretty quick so I can get the car running right.

More photos to come once the parts arrive - I am also buying a set of AMG OZ 17" alloys, they are 8.5J on front and 10J on rear so pretty special but they need a refurb...I think they suit the 500E though.
 
Jolly good show, old boy. I think the only thing remaining is to take a "road trip" over to Cornwall and visit Chris at MercMan.
 
Hello all - hope all is well. Not much has happened recently but here are a few updates to keep the thread alive...

Instrument cluster / interior lights


This is now solved. After playing with the dimmer switch nothing happened, then on the off chance of waiting for someone in the car I gave it another twist and turn and voila! It's fixed. Seems to be working fine since then.

I now have MB brand new potentiometer, fuse and all bulbs for the cluster surplus to requirements (couldn't return them as they are special order parts).

Ignition leads


The new ignition leads have fixed my starting issue! Well chuffed - no more cranking hard to start. I didn't fit the leads to the coil - does anyone know the easiest way of getting access? Anyways, I'd highly recommend the the lead change for anyone as preventative maintenance. I bought the Beru cables and they're specifically for the W124 500E.

Distributor caps and rotor arms


These have been replaced now with Beru items. The originals did look battered and potentially the original ones. Car feels better post-installation and I'm sure these will last a while.

Rough idle


I also managed to take the car to Terry at Wayne Gates for the rough idle issue. He had a quick look but couldn't find the issue at the time. Car is clean on emissions and a re-MOT showed a pass. I have to highly recommend Terry to anyone, he is taking the car for a week or so and will be diagnosing the issue in more detail. He has strong experience of the M119 which is becoming a rarer thing (especially in the UK) and he is confident he can find the problem with it (I'm sure him and his team will).

I will be replacing the fuel pressure regulator today however the fuel rail shows a pressure of 4 (bars?) at idle so we are not sure there is an issue here at all. It then slowly drops off when switched off but comes straight on once the ignition is on. It's only a cheap part and recommended for replacement on the M119 as preventative maintenance anyway.

Underside


I am also glad to say the underside of my car is in excellent condition :agree::agree::agree: Being from Japan I was expecting it to be clean and I did have a quick look before I bought it but not a detailed look from a ramp. The underside is rust free. No signs of any accident damage and many components are new, still retaining the MB stickers which shows me that whoever had this car is Osaka really took care of it. The front shocks are red in colour at the front - any ideas of what they are? Couldn't see a brand but need to look in more detail. Springs all around look OEM.

UK climate is unfortunately not as pleasant to older cars so I hope to have the underside professionally cleaned and re-waxoyled before the summer to protect it.

I'm also glad to say all the Lorinser parts are stamped and look original including the wheels :)

Smaller bits...


Fuel filter, headlight wipers and air intake tubes replaced with original OEM parts. I have also replaced the rear light lenses with facelift E500 items (the clear lenses make the car look more modern).

The headlight wiper washer doesn't work - any ideas? I can hear the motors but no water coming through.

Photos


Here are some photos which I have been accumulating over the last few days - to start with, one of me at a petrol station, practically where the 500E spends most of it's time :D




Service of the filter, caps, arms etc along with the engine bay when I started







Parked at Wayne Gates Mercedes waiting to be assessed





Underside of my 500E










Photos from last night before I replaced the ignition cables - a filthy M119 in all it's beauty...






All back together






Hope you've enjoyed the read. I have lots of "to do" jobs but before I start on all that I will be working to cure the rough idle issue. If anyone has any further ideas please let me know :)

Cheers

Bill
 
Those distributor caps were definitely knackered! Good move replacing. Underside looks great. Love the picture of the instrument panel! Thanks for sharing
 
Bill,

Thanks for the update. It looks like you have found a keeper. There will always be some little PITA problem. It is a 20 year old car but how many cars this old give as much pleasure to thier owners. Just keep on it. After 9 years of ownership I still drool over my own car when I pull it out of the garage.

Take Care
 
Excellent Update...

Just for info, In terms of Magnecor Leads, I recall ordering leads for another M119 engined car such as a W140... Only issue was coil leads a little long... better long than short!
 
Could you explain/describe the rough idle a bit more? Is it misfiring ,revs flactuating or the odd stumble ? You seem to be driving the car a bit so it can't be that bad ?

Re headlamp washers : Obvious thing to do is to check/trace the lines and make sure the pump is not leaking. see here: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919

Easiest way getting to the coils is by removing the headlight. I think someone managed without removal but can't recall who and how though.
 
Could you explain/describe the rough idle a bit more? Is it misfiring ,revs flactuating or the odd stumble ? You seem to be driving the car a bit so it can't be that bad ?

Re headlamp washers : Obvious thing to do is to check/trace the lines and make sure the pump is not leaking. see here: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919

Easiest way getting to the coils is by removing the headlight. I think someone managed without removal but can't recall who and how though.

Thanks for the tip on the washer and the coil - I thought the only way was to get the headlamp out the way as it's too tight otherwise.

The rough idle is hard to explain as I've not had another M119. It's visible on idle and the exhaust hunts on idle too. When revved it's super smooth, drops back to idle smooth then back to being rough again. I've been driving it quite a bit yes and it doesn't feel like it's going to cut out but deffo something wrong. I will get a video up so it's easier to see/hear.

Cheers

Bill
 

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