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OWNER Benz
- Thread starter Benz
- Start date
Im not sure my car came with asr off and the renntech Traction control delete
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As I was reinstalling the center console area the stupid tab that holds the the wood down came undone and when you go and tighten the storage compartment unit it pushes everything forward causing the ashtray to get jammed. I was able to get it to not jam but the is annoying. Overall the wood looks decent for the time being and much cleaner. I used some wax and bluemagic headlight restorer to remove some minor scuffs there is still several left.
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Naperville (mboemparts) is good for OE/dealer stuff, especially with the free shipping deal for forum members. AHAZ is ok but they have been carrying more junk brands and fewer good brands (click here for list). PeachParts is a good vendor as well, along with FCP Euro, whose claim to fame is lifetime warranty on all parts.
Unless the head gaskets have a severe leak, just ignore it. Parts & labor for head gaskets on the M119 is innnnn-sane.
Remember that ECU upgrade only improves full-throttle power. Any perceived power gain at part throttle is due to other differences, not the ECU. You can get temporary FGS by moving the shift lever to the "B" position while stopped, then moving it back to "D"; the trans will start in 1st once when you do this. Repeat as necessary.
Good to know about the vendors. I think its just the valve cover gaskets not the head gaskets. So what would you recommend to get a bit more power to the wheels and have the car a bit more responsive. I was under the impression the ecu upgrade to a 92 ecu gives the car roughly 10hp more ?
Ill have to try the car out in b mode.
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If you are an electrician, it's just a nuisance to install (very short wire length available under the CAN modules). Plan on 3-5 hours as a first-time DIY.
If you are not an electrician and don't play one on TV, it will be more difficult. Click here for a schematic and lots more info.
Mb Oem is great. what is the free shipping code? I have ordered from them quite often. Where can I get the trunk plastic trim decals ?
There is a Schrader valve under the metal cap on the fuel rail. The washer is an extra safety. Best to let the car sit overnight to let the pressure drop to zero before messing with it.
Are you sure the moisture is fuel?
Ok good to know, It smelled like fuel. I started the car let it run for a couple of min then went to check under the cover and noticed it. I just checked my lh to see if it had a stock chip this is what the chip read. 2 287 358 442 . I pulled the Bosch 0 280 002 569 unit I think that is the correct one.
Thanks
Thanks
There is a Schrader valve under the metal cap on the fuel rail. The washer is an extra safety. Best to let the car sit overnight to let the pressure drop to zero before messing with it.
Are you sure the moisture is fuel?
I also put on my monoblocks with the 15mm H&R spacers the car had on it. What a big difference love the way it looks. They will need to be refinished at some point in time. I think I need 20mm to make the fitment flush maybe someone can weigh in on this. The front tires will be replaced to match the new rear ones. Eventually ill dial down the stance a tad bit once all mechanical issues are sorted and money is put into the car fund.
While I replaced the washer on the fuel rail I blew out as much debris and leaves that I could Ill have to vacuum in the cracks when its warmer.
I also recorded a video of my strange surging idle. How can I upload that ? I looks at the distributor cap and the wires they seem to be rather new. But ill have to take that apart to see if its gunked up. I may have a vacuum leak somewhere if that isn't the issue.
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While I replaced the washer on the fuel rail I blew out as much debris and leaves that I could Ill have to vacuum in the cracks when its warmer.
I also recorded a video of my strange surging idle. How can I upload that ? I looks at the distributor cap and the wires they seem to be rather new. But ill have to take that apart to see if its gunked up. I may have a vacuum leak somewhere if that isn't the issue.
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Nice. The two-tone upper/lower color combo of the smoke silver color theme on the W124 makes the car look so much better, IMHO, than the 1-tone-smoke-silver color combo on W210 cars. In your pictures, I noticed that the trim framing the rear back glass as well as the trim that runs front-back along the two sides of the roof look to be black. On my own pre-facelift car, these have a brushed/anodized aluminum finish to them. Did a previous owner change the look of these trim pieces or is this how they they came on facelift cars?
Also - I lived in Chicago for many years --- geez your pictures reminds me I am sorry --- I don't miss the white stuff or the cold!
Also - I lived in Chicago for many years --- geez your pictures reminds me I am sorry --- I don't miss the white stuff or the cold!
Regardless of pre- or post-facelift, the trim pieces (two along the roof, one at the top of the windshield, two framing the back glass and one each on the rear windows) come in a black color from the factory. Over time with exposure to weather they turn to a brushed/anodized aluminum finish.
Several years ago, I toyed with removing the chrome on my C126. I decided not to, but still had my roll of 3" wide Shadowline vinyl tape. When I returned my Spruce paint scheme back to factory, I replaced all the trim for the fresh black. I had forgotten the vertical rear door 
until just a few moths ago. My least favorite thing t do is remove door cards, so I gave my tape a try. It took 10 minutes, a little precision xacto knife work and all of my trim is black instead of bronze. I have matte tape, but it is 20 for matte and 21 usd for gloss. I stuck with matte for the side window since the other will fade to matte. Consider this a public service, no affiliation 
http://shadowlinetrim.com/purchase.html
until just a few moths ago. My least favorite thing t do is remove door cards, so I gave my tape a try. It took 10 minutes, a little precision xacto knife work and all of my trim is black instead of bronze. I have matte tape, but it is 20 for matte and 21 usd for gloss. I stuck with matte for the side window since the other will fade to matte. Consider this a public service, no affiliation http://shadowlinetrim.com/purchase.html
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Nice. The two-tone upper/lower color combo of the smoke silver color theme on the W124 makes the car look so much better, IMHO, than the 1-tone-smoke-silver color combo on W210 cars. In your pictures, I noticed that the trim framing the rear back glass as well as the trim that runs front-back along the two sides of the roof look to be black. On my own pre-facelift car, these have a brushed/anodized aluminum finish to them. Did a previous owner change the look of these trim pieces or is this how they they came on facelift cars?
Also - I lived in Chicago for many years --- geez your pictures reminds me I am sorry --- I don't miss the white stuff or the cold!
Thanks ya Iove the two tone as opposed to the monotone. No the trim is anodizes just the lighting that made it look black. We have had a mild winter so I cant complain hehe
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I agree, yup those bigger monoblocks looks very good.
Good luck running those AMG OZ people love them here but too much of a liability on a $4000 sets of wheels i see it cracks as we sleak eeeeewwww
Hey guys today was my first time I got to take the Benz out legally in Chicago and with good weather. I noticed when I started the car and went to install my temporary plates there was a very strong smell of fuel coming from the rear of the car. I inspected for leaking fuel but there was none? I am going to order a oem fuel filter and change that and inspect the lines from there. Anyone know of this issue.
Thank !
Thank !
Just be sure you remove the panel and inspect all the connections and rubber hoses. New copper crush washers are a must for the filter and banjo connections. Unscrew Gas cap and relieve pressure, and keep car outdoors for ventilation. There is also a check valve coming off the tank for pollution control. It may need changing, and the rubber lines I mentioned may also be cracking under pressure.
Ill have to go over those things.
Can you lead me to the correct part number and best place to buy these, thanks !
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It's just basic. Exaggeration but just looking at the fuel cluster will cause a leak! Phunny intended. If you remove a fitting that has a copper washer, use a new one. The rubber is often overlooked back there so just safe than sorry. Pumps and filters don't last forever so if no records, replace and use quality oem/Bosch pumps.
Do not drive the car until you locate the leak source. The most common failure is the high pressure hose exiting the fuel filter, but look at the large feed hose from the tank as well (and, the fuel pumps too).
Read this thread for details, especially post # 7 and 8:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8977
If the fuel smell is from INSIDE the car, not outside... that is a different problem.
Do not drive the car until you locate the leak source. The most common failure is the high pressure hose exiting the fuel filter, but look at the large feed hose from the tank as well (and, the fuel pumps too).
Read this thread for details, especially post # 7 and 8:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8977
If the fuel smell is from INSIDE the car, not outside... that is a different problem.
Thanks Ill try to look into that today !
I was reading a lot of threads last night about the hose you mentioned and the fuel pumps . [emoji106]
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Those hoses at the fuel pumps and fuel filter are closing in on 25 years old. You need to replace ALL of them. As well as the feed and return hoses under the hood. There is also a fair bit of corrosion in the photos.
As I've stated in other posts, faulty fuel lines are one of the most under-noticed and under-replaced things on these cars. I have had two cars (a 1989 560SEC, worked on in 2010; and a 1995 E320, worked on in 2014). In both cases, the fuel lines were visibly cracked and degraded, and only a short matter of time until both would have failed and spilt fuel underhood.
Don't chance it - order and replace the fuel hoses. 25 years is well beyond the service life of rubber items !!!
As I've stated in other posts, faulty fuel lines are one of the most under-noticed and under-replaced things on these cars. I have had two cars (a 1989 560SEC, worked on in 2010; and a 1995 E320, worked on in 2014). In both cases, the fuel lines were visibly cracked and degraded, and only a short matter of time until both would have failed and spilt fuel underhood.
Don't chance it - order and replace the fuel hoses. 25 years is well beyond the service life of rubber items !!!
Is Cohline acceptible for the fuel filter to feed line ? Fuel tank to pump I only see the dealer option. I am having trouble locating part numbers for the rest of the hoses you are referring to .
If you smelled raw fuel, it came from somewhere. You should keep trying to locate it. Don't want to have a very rare 036 flambé...
It wasn't raw fuel exactly it was more of heavy exhaust fumes
If you smelled raw fuel, it came from somewhere. You should keep trying to locate it. Don't want to have a very rare 036 flambé...
I would only use the OE/dealer hose for the high-pressure hose exiting the fuel filter. I haven't personally seen the Cohline hose currently available via aftermarket... but I don't have the slightest confidence it's OEM, and IMO it's not worth saving $50 to risk a $20k car fire. Replacing the tank feed hose is optional if it's not cracked, but inspect it closely for cracks... they can be hidden on the back side and difficult to see. Click here for pics of the cracking feed hose.
The 036 does not have fuel hoses underhood which crack and split, Gerry was referring to different models (C126 and S124). The 034/036 have stainless braided covers on the engine compartment fuel hoses and so far, nobody has reported a failure of these. Which is good, because I believe they have been NLA for a while.
Ya I totally agree on the cost If i no one has experience with it it's not worth the headache. I will have a piece of mind with the factory one. So as of now I have ordered an oem fuel filter, and I will order that one fuel line. I'll have to reinspect the feed hose. I will have a new set of plugs coming in soon as well.
Next in line will be cap and rotors.
When I was on a straight away and accelerating the other day the car went into a weird limp mode. The throttle did not respond at all and I had to pull the car over and restart it and then it was fine. As this happened no lights popped up on the dash however I did have the asr turned off because I have the Renntech traction delete.
I was reading one of the threads that says something about running on one fuel pump which may be the case. Its only past 80mph does the car react this way. It happened only twice.
If you shell our for new caps+rotors, get new insulators too. Cheap insurance, lots of threads about this.
If the ASR light on the dash came on during this time, you experienced standard limp mode... throttle will respond if you push the pedal all the way down. Need to check codes to see what may have caused it. Have you looked at the date code on the ETA yet? If original, it's on borrowed time.
Running on 1 fuel pump won't cause limp mode, but will cause a power reduction during the time the 1 pump is not working. When this happens, no codes are triggered at all.
Ok ill look into those as well.
I dont recall if the light came on I would have to see if it happens again and pay attention to it.
Where is the date located ?
Also is this blink code reader ok http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-OB...869425?hash=item35edadfd31:g:EhMAAOSwpIdW8DpX
Since I never owned one of these cars im not sure if there is power reduction ill have to have someone that owns one drive mine.
I dont recall if the light came on I would have to see if it happens again and pay attention to it.
Where is the date located ?
Also is this blink code reader ok http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-OB...869425?hash=item35edadfd31:g:EhMAAOSwpIdW8DpX
Since I never owned one of these cars im not sure if there is power reduction ill have to have someone that owns one drive mine.
If you shell our for new caps+rotors, get new insulators too. Cheap insurance, lots of threads about this.
If the ASR light on the dash came on during this time, you experienced standard limp mode... throttle will respond if you push the pedal all the way down. Need to check codes to see what may have caused it. Have you looked at the date code on the ETA yet? If original, it's on borrowed time.
Running on 1 fuel pump won't cause limp mode, but will cause a power reduction during the time the 1 pump is not working. When this happens, no codes are triggered at all.
See attached.
That will only work if you have a 38-pin breakout box / mushroom adapter - which is recommended, as it makes things far easier than using the blinker box with 1mm pins designed to work directly with the 38-pin connector. Details in this thread, see attached pics in the first post:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2996
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So i check the date and while simply nudging the vacuum line It cracked in half but the date shows an original part from 94 . Something tells me this vacuum line will be a pain in the ass to replace.
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Yep, that's the original ETA, Jannury 1994. If you frequently get limp mode (ASR light on, reduced power, extended pedal travel, temporarily cured by re-starting the car)... replacing the ETA is likely to fix the problem.
That vacuum line goes from the rear bottom of the intake manifold, out the front of the intake along with the 8mm black PCV tube, under the driver distributor covers, and over to the EZL on the driver fender. You are likely to find all of the vacuum tubes in the engine compartment fossilized and breaking if you look at the wrong, including all the PCV hoses atop the intake manifold to the valve covers. They should be soft rubber. If they are rock hard, plan on replacing all that stuff... and the black 8mm PCV vent tube as well. As a temp fix you can try to patch the busted vac line but don't be surprised if it breaks again while trying to patch it. There's a detailed thread on the forum with all the PCV tube p/n's if you need them, they are another dealer-only item.
That vacuum line goes from the rear bottom of the intake manifold, out the front of the intake along with the 8mm black PCV tube, under the driver distributor covers, and over to the EZL on the driver fender. You are likely to find all of the vacuum tubes in the engine compartment fossilized and breaking if you look at the wrong, including all the PCV hoses atop the intake manifold to the valve covers. They should be soft rubber. If they are rock hard, plan on replacing all that stuff... and the black 8mm PCV vent tube as well. As a temp fix you can try to patch the busted vac line but don't be surprised if it breaks again while trying to patch it. There's a detailed thread on the forum with all the PCV tube p/n's if you need them, they are another dealer-only item.
Ya I patched it temporarily lol it was a pain in the ass but the car is running as it was. That's usually the case with these older cars you touch one thing and open up a can of worms haha. But that is the fun in it. I don't frequently get the limp mode but that will def be on the never ending list haha. I saw a forum member had an aftermarket performance eta installed, im assuming those run around 300 to 500.
Yep, that's the original ETA, Jannury 1994. If you frequently get limp mode (ASR light on, reduced power, extended pedal travel, temporarily cured by re-starting the car)... replacing the ETA is likely to fix the problem.
That vacuum line goes from the rear bottom of the intake manifold, out the front of the intake along with the 8mm black PCV tube, under the driver distributor covers, and over to the EZL on the driver fender. You are likely to find all of the vacuum tubes in the engine compartment fossilized and breaking if you look at the wrong, including all the PCV hoses atop the intake manifold to the valve covers. They should be soft rubber. If they are rock hard, plan on replacing all that stuff... and the black 8mm PCV vent tube as well. As a temp fix you can try to patch the busted vac line but don't be surprised if it breaks again while trying to patch it. There's a detailed thread on the forum with all the PCV tube p/n's if you need them, they are another dealer-only item.
Nobody has proven any real performance gains from ETA mods. There was one guy on a different forum years ago but we never saw any proof via dyno runs. Stock ETA replacement is ~$1k for factory rebuilt if available, a bit less for Beckmann rebuild, or $300-$500 for a used late-datecode ETA.
Benz: I have been following your new car thread-- good luck with it. Very nice color! Looking at the pictures of the fuel filter & pumps I think you're missing the plastic sleeve on the filter. Lower pump has a blue colored sleeve clearly visible. I don't see one on the filter.
Regards,
Peter Weissman
Regards,
Peter Weissman
Thank you !
Yes I noticed that I actually ordered and oem replacement which I will be installing [emoji106]
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Nobody has proven any real performance gains from ETA mods. There was one guy on a different forum years ago but we never saw any proof via dyno runs. Stock ETA replacement is ~$1k for factory rebuilt if available, a bit less for Beckmann rebuild, or $300-$500 for a used late-datecode ETA.
Good to know !
Will that vacuum line cause noticeable changes or issues if it splits again ?
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