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Im going to order the vacuum hose and connectors that broke. Just to confirm will will 1 meter be enought for the intake manifold line ? Or should I just buy 10 ft. of it.

- 000-158-14-35
- fitting x2 117-078-02-81

Thank you !

Yep, that's the original ETA, Jannury 1994. If you frequently get limp mode (ASR light on, reduced power, extended pedal travel, temporarily cured by re-starting the car)... replacing the ETA is likely to fix the problem.

That vacuum line goes from the rear bottom of the intake manifold, out the front of the intake along with the 8mm black PCV tube, under the driver distributor covers, and over to the EZL on the driver fender. You are likely to find all of the vacuum tubes in the engine compartment fossilized and breaking if you look at the wrong, including all the PCV hoses atop the intake manifold to the valve covers. They should be soft rubber. If they are rock hard, plan on replacing all that stuff... and the black 8mm PCV vent tube as well. As a temp fix you can try to patch the busted vac line but don't be surprised if it breaks again while trying to patch it. There's a detailed thread on the forum with all the PCV tube p/n's if you need them, they are another dealer-only item.

:spend:
 
I have two cars, but the line is so cheap, buy 3m as you are going to use the stuff as original cracks happen often. Best to be prepared when you remove the rubber connector and 1/3 of the line comes with it.
 
The other day I went to start the car and there was a significantly loud hissing/buzzing noise much louder than the fuel pumps constantly running coming from the rear of the car lasting 10 seconds this has happened 3 times. The car had more than half a tank of gas each time. Has anyone experienced a similar symptom

Thanks,
 
70 degree day in Chicago so I did some Ocd cleaning on the interior of the car.

  • - Removed rear seats and tray and side pockets
  • - Vacuumed under all matts cleaned coffee stains
  • - Cleaned all of the interior with degreaser and a microfiber towel.
  • - Used tooth brush in crack on seats and doors etc
  • - Cleaned headliner
  • - Conditioned seats
  • - Burned off thread ends
  • - Waxed wood again with meguires as suggested by forum members

My parts have arrived!

Still need help determining what the loud jet noise in the rear is when I start the car. It lasts until the rpms drop and sometimes causes the car to stall immediately when starting the car. My guess is that after I put in seafoam into the gas tank there was some crap that clogged the fuel filter ? Or the fuel pumps are taking a crap. There is a quarter tank of gas in the car.

[emoji848]

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I had some spare time last night and my Alpine cde 164 bt laying around from my e55 so I did some research on the forums and found the harness adapter would fit my e500 so just flipped some cables and put it in. Wired the mic for handsfree in the top left corner of the pillar.

I also noticed I need the gas cap seal since mine is dry rotted

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Day trip to Milwaukee yesterday .

Have to go back to Discount tire they did not balance my wheels properly so frustrating .
Can anyone tell my why the sls makes my passenger side rear higher than the driver side.




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May be an optical illusion but it almost looks like a camber issue on the rear driver's side.
 
May be an optical illusion but it almost looks like a camber issue on the rear driver's side.

No not in this picture haha this pic I have two people in the back hehe


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The SLS can't do that. It also can't "compensate" for that either, as the system has exactly equal pressure on both sides. Internally the left and right sides are completely parallel and connected. Sometimes it is pure optical illusion. Other times, it is a difference in the individual springs or the spring pad allocation left relative to right. And please be aware, the problem can actually be on the front springs.
 
The SLS can't do that. It also can't "compensate" for that either, as the system has exactly equal pressure on both sides. Internally the left and right sides are completely parallel and connected. Sometimes it is pure optical illusion. Other times, it is a difference in the individual springs or the spring pad allocation left relative to right. And please be aware, the problem can actually be on the front springs.

Ill have to look into it further when im swapping out spring pads


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I noticed that my fog lamps shake a lot while driving am I perhaps missing a bracket or is this common.


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I noticed that my fog lamps shake a lot while driving am I perhaps missing a bracket or is this common.

Uncommon. Most likely culprit is the metal mounting bracket which attaches to the bumper is loose/missing or the fog lamp is loose. The part is still available and was $140 last time I bought it.


Robert
 
Last edited:
Uncommon. Most likely culprit is the metal mounting bracket is loose/missing or the fog lamp is loose. The part is still available and was $140 last time I bought it.


Robert

O boy I will have to take off the undercarriage and inspect this . Hopefully the brackets are there.


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If the brackets are OK... the fog light may be broken internally. I had that on one of my cars. Fortunately, new fogs are not terribly expensive, and they look GREAT with fresh lenses.

:gor-gor:
 
Just Had my buddy who is a tech scan my car and I got a reading of a bad crank case position sensor and a driver side speed sensor which he said sometimes have bad readings if they are dirty etc.

Other than that no additional readings. He was not able to read two of the ECUs for some reason.

oh and thats his Cosworth Nbd. Haha

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One of my headlight bulbs went out has anyone tried the cree led bulbs ?


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Other than that no additional readings. He was not able to read two of the ECUs for some reason.
This is half normal. SDS will try to communicate with the SRS and that does not work, only blink codes are available. Dunno what second module would not communicate though.



One of my headlight bulbs went out has anyone tried the cree led bulbs ?
Never heard of anyone trying LED bulbs for the headlights. I did some quick looking and IMO, either get name-brand LED H4 replacements (Philips, Osram, Sylvania) or stick with good halogens.

http://www.xenondepot.com/Philips-12953BWX2-H4-LED-Bulb-Review-s/62.htm


:pc1:
 
Had some time to do a few things this week.

- changed plugs gapped to 1mm
- changed fuel line and filter
- scrubbed wheel wells from dirt and fender arches where typical dirt builds up
- adjusted sls
- changed burnt cluster and climate control bulbs
- got a set of tail lights from forum member bill and played around with the tint on them since my original ones were mismatched.

The one on the left is the original light I wanted the tint on the right one to look identical so I put a very light coat of vht spray on it from the inside which is the closest I will get to matching it up it still has a very subtle pink hugh but not noticable to most.

Ill have two sets now

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Just curious ... what weight motor oil are you using? I think I see 3/4 bar in your picture?

Right now with 15W-50 in my car, I show about 1.5 bar oil pressure right off idle - this is after the oil temp is fully hot and in 65F ambient temperature.
 
The owner did an oil change before I purchased it I will find out which oil he used and grade.

Just curious ... what weight motor oil are you using? I think I see 3/4 bar in your picture?

Right now with 15W-50 in my car, I show about 1.5 bar oil pressure right off idle - this is after the oil temp is fully hot and in 65F ambient temperature.
 
Need recommendation on cap and rotor where to buy for the best price. I was hearing Beru and Bosch?
 
Need recommendation on cap and rotor where to buy for the best price. I was hearing Beru and Bosch?
Bosch is the OEM cap, Doduco is the OEM rotor. Beru rotors are reboxed Doduco but only available from Europe (there's an eBay seller that carries them). Beru or Bosch caps are available in USA, and Bosch rotors are available in USA. Check out the usual vendors - Amazon, AutohausAZ, FCP Euro, etc for current pricing. If installing new caps/rotors also replace the insulator at the same time (only Bosch available now). Bremi are cheaper and some forum members like those, however Bremi has never been the OEM for these items on the M119.

There are other forum threads with more details if you have trouble picking a brand, those threads also have the part numbers you need.

:shocking:
 
Bosch is the OEM cap, Doduco is the OEM rotor. Beru rotors are reboxed Doduco but only available from Europe (there's an eBay seller that carries them). Beru or Bosch caps are available in USA, and Bosch rotors are available in USA. Check out the usual vendors - Amazon, AutohausAZ, FCP Euro, etc for current pricing. If installing new caps/rotors also replace the insulator at the same time (only Bosch available now). Bremi are cheaper and some forum members like those, however Bremi has never been the OEM for these items on the M119.

There are other forum threads with more details if you have trouble picking a brand, those threads also have the part numbers you need.

:shocking:

Ok sounds good thanks, sent u an email about your chip shoot me a dm



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I'm trying to decide what color to paint my Calipers anyone with a smoke silver car have red ones or a brembo type gold color.

I'm thinking either typical red, or a copper color, or some type of silver metallic.
 
I checked the cap and rotor today and it wasnt complete toast. I sanded down the points . I did notice some moisture so I believe i will need to replace soon . After reinstall the car idled better but then after a drive it went back to the typical rough m idle


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I'm trying to decide what color to paint my Calipers anyone with a smoke silver car have red ones or a brembo type gold color. I'm thinking either typical red, or a copper color, or some type of silver metallic.
I think red may look odd with smoke silver. I'd vote for a bronze / copper color similar to the paint, or maybe silver or black as an alternative.


I checked the cap and rotor today and it wasnt complete toast. I sanded down the points . I did notice some moisture so I believe i will need to replace soon . After reinstall the car idled better but then after a drive it went back to the typical rough m idle
Those don't look bad at all. Wouldn't surprise me if you have the fluid-on-back-of-insulator problem, maybe...

:v8:
 
I think these would look stellar with any color.
Good point, Ken. The 1994 models accept the Silver Arrow kits as 100% bolt-on front & rear. If it needs brakes... definitely worth considering the upgrade. I've got a set kicking around the shop that I need to clean up and sell...

:e500launch:
 
Hmm money I dont have to spend lol what do you want for them. Are they bigger than the sl ones ?
Good point, Ken. The 1994 models accept the Silver Arrow kits as 100% bolt-on front & rear. If it needs brakes... definitely worth considering the upgrade. I've got a set kicking around the shop that I need to clean up and sell...

:e500launch:
 
You know what I did notice a tad bit of oil around where the bolts go... I just temporarily fixed that cracked vacuum line as the glue held for one day. I used a piece of new line and used two connectors and connected the line I started it and it was running very smooth Ill go for a ride to see how it is on the road. That will give me an answer as to if the vacuum line was causing the rough idle. If not next steps are new cap and rotor ?

It may look decent I would have to see it on another smoke silver car. I personally like the bronze type color and I do like the silver arrow that Maui posted.
I think red may look odd with smoke silver. I'd vote for a bronze / copper color similar to the paint, or maybe silver or black as an alternative.



Those don't look bad at all. Wouldn't surprise me if you have the fluid-on-back-of-insulator problem, maybe...

:v8:
 
Hmm money I dont have to spend lol what do you want for them. Are they bigger than the sl ones ?
Yes. Your stock brakes are 320x30 up front, and 278x24 in the rear. The SA setup is 334x32 up front (Brembo) and 300x22 (Ate) in the rear. Search the forum, there are lots of threads discussing the upgrade. You're probably looking at a bit over $1k for calipers + rotors. Installation is DIY if you have a pressure bleeder.


You know what I did notice a tad bit of oil around where the bolts go...
Engine oil, if present, is likely coming from the cam solenoids. It piddles down under the caps. The oil won't cause rough running or misfires though. If the caps look decent (like yours do) next check is inspecting the back side of the insulators, which means removing the rotor and rotor bracket.


It may look decent I would have to see it on another smoke silver car. I personally like the bronze type color and I do like the silver arrow that Maui posted.
Pics attached of smoke-silver-ish colored front SA brakes. The rear SA calipers are not painted, they are plated a lighter color, you can see the difference in the pics. Maui had his professionally powder coated in silver.

If your wheels hide the calipers... I wouldn't worry too much about what they look like!

:spend: :spend:
 

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Some updates

I swapped my Ecu to the wot 92 and got a chip from GSXR

Fixed the vacuum leak
Changed plugs
Cleaned cap and rotor
Installed sl500 shift rod with a pre-merger amg knob
Installer Porsche led puddle lights on the two front doors.
Thermal wrapped intake ducts.
Acquired a oem mercedes phone not sure if its the correct one.
Smoked a second set of tail lights from the inside that I got from a forum member.
Painted Michelin logo on tires pita and the fronts faded after one highspeed highway ride. Used sharpie oil based paint it looked so good until I drove the car lol

All in all car idles and runs much better but there is still room for improvement. No sudden surges of idle and very minimal rough idle on occasion. Car has not gone into limp mode.


spotted on Chicago Car Spotters facebook page
30a9f4e311771b55109d4c1f62213728.jpg


cars and coffee parked next to my second dream car the 6.3 !
09258133816c1bba90f2dbb6e83910c5.jpg


w210 knob ill have to add a pic with my current pre merger knob
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Nice license plate on the 6.3. :)

For the very minimal rough idle on occasion... what spark plugs do you have installed, and are they gapped to the stock 0.8mm or opened up to ~1.0mm? And, are the engine mounts recent? Old engine mounts can make the idle feel rough even when the engine is running perfectly.

:v8:
 
Nice license plate on the 6.3. :)

For the very minimal rough idle on occasion... what spark plugs do you have installed, and are they gapped to the stock 0.8mm or opened up to ~1.0mm? And, are the engine mounts recent? Old engine mounts can make the idle feel rough even when the engine is running perfectly.

:v8:

Ya those plates are cool! I bought oem plugs from forum member and gapped to 1.00 as he recommended I think you are right its the motor mounts I feel the motor jerk slightly when the car downshifts. I was leaning towards lemfenroder or however you spell that lol I have had those on my E55 and they were great .


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Cool - plugs should be fine then!

First see if you need mounts at all. Check your existing engine mounts via photo below.

If you do need them... Lemforder had been reboxed OEM Boge for many years, but I hear they have changed supplier recently, so I'm not sure what you'll get in the box these days. The OE dealer mounts are stupidly priced, like $250 each from discount dealers? Lemforders should be ~$100 each or so. I think you'll find them listed as "ZF" brand now, as ZF is the parent company of Lemforder. Just don't buy the URO / Meyle / etc junk mounts!

Someone tried Febi not long ago and those were still reboxed OEM Boge... might be worth a try? FCP has a good price on them. Normally I don't like Febi but sometimes they rebox good stuff:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=1242402617

You can get ZF from AHAZ, ECSTuning, or Pelican. (search p/n 124-240-26-17).

:apl:
 

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Ya I noticed that ZF were rebranded and are lemforder. Ill have to measure the gap thanks ! I agree the oem ones are overpriced for some rubber fluid filled mounts.
Cool - plugs should be fine then!

First see if you need mounts at all. Check your existing engine mounts via photo below.

If you do need them... Lemforder had been reboxed OEM Boge for many years, but I hear they have changed supplier recently, so I'm not sure what you'll get in the box these days. The OE dealer mounts are stupidly priced, like $250 each from discount dealers? Lemforders should be ~$100 each or so. I think you'll find them listed as "ZF" brand now, as ZF is the parent company of Lemforder. Just don't buy the URO / Meyle / etc junk mounts!

Someone tried Febi not long ago and those were still reboxed OEM Boge... might be worth a try? FCP has a good price on them. Normally I don't like Febi but sometimes they rebox good stuff:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=1242402617

You can get ZF from AHAZ, ECSTuning, or Pelican. (search p/n 124-240-26-17).

:apl:
 
In the last couple of years, and just last month, I got some Febis dirt cheap for several 140s and a couple of 129s. They were perfect new original Boges with the Benz stars and part numbers ground off....
 
I have not yet experienced changing motor mounts on E500 but must say recently changing them on E420 was by no means a "walk in the park".
 
It was quite a challenge on ramps, with the exhaust still hooked up but doable. Part of the issue is that paranoid feeling that the engine jack is going to fail and make me into Captain Hook since your hand is in there very tightly and no tolerance. Over-dramatization but working under the car blindly from my back as a solo had fun with my psyche...

I am confident in the job and could do it much faster now, the first time was the hardest like most of this stuff. A certain angle insert, twist and drop and its done.
 
Ya tell me about it that is always the fear of losing an arm lol I went through that with the w108 and the E55 I would put the mount in there so fast haha.

It was quite a challenge on ramps, with the exhaust still hooked up but doable. Part of the issue is that paranoid feeling that the engine jack is going to fail and make me into Captain Hook since your hand is in there very tightly and no tolerance. Over-dramatization but working under the car blindly from my back as a solo had fun with my psyche...

I am confident in the job and could do it much faster now, the first time was the hardest like most of this stuff. A certain angle insert, twist and drop and its done.
 
I have not yet experienced changing motor mounts on E500 but must say recently changing them on E420 was by no means a "walk in the park".
It's not fun, and even less fun without a lift. With a lift, and no major problems along the way, plan on 2-4 hours if you have done the job before.

First timers, expect 5+ hours, and maybe up to 10 hours if you run into problems (frozen bolts, etc). Be careful when lifting the engine to make room for the new mount!

:sawzall:
 
Hey guys,
Just a few updates ,
I ordered a new drive belt as mine is worn should be in this week.

I was able to source the Renntech badge from the previous owner which was friends with the owner of Renntech and got the badge from him.

I also bought a renntech burlwood shift knob from renntech.

Purchased a valentine one with a concealed unit and hardwired and installed it .

Cars and coffee fuelfed event this past sunday with forum member dario .


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O yes and I removed my resonator and polished up my stock tips they were covered in surface rust. Car sounds great but now I want more loud haha .
I will be trying to source other renntech bits as well.


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