Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
As Sheward noted above, the E500E has unique springs that are different from all other 124 chassis, plus SLS. My personal favorite is to use a 1-pt pad up front with stock springs, then cut about 1/4 coil off the stock rears and adjust the pads as needed so the ride height is level with a full tank of fuel. There's no need to use H&R springs if you only want an E500E slightly lower.I'm surprised the W124 guys don't have a standard "forum favourite" workaround for lowering the car.
There's no advantage to the H&R springs, and Eibach does not make any springs that work with the E500E.I'm sure this has been considered before but why don't you run H&Rs/Eibachs with #4 shims all around to get that height you're looking for plus extra comfort? Or #4 in front and #2-3 in rear
Yes... 1/4 of a full circle, which is a small amount. This is about 2 or 3 linear inches, approximately.Dave when you say cut 1/4 of a spring its 1/4 of a full circle?
hope I am clear
IF i can't find 124-324-12-04, can I use 11 ?? what's the actually difference?124-321-39-04 is correct for the front.
124-324-12-04 is correct for the rear. (#11 rear spring is correct for many / most 6-cyl cars). #36 would be a Sportline rear spring for 400E.
#39 front appears to still be available new. #12 and #36 rear are NLA new but I'm sure you could locate used ones. 124 coil springs do not really "wear out" or "sag" over time.
Spring pads/shims depend on both the color code of the particular spring you are installing AND also personal preference, along with trying to keep the car level. Check with David Hendy, he may have good used springs for sale and he's somewhere in New England.
![]()
I think you mean 12 ? right?I'd get a good used #11... if you want new, call a dealership and talk to a live person to ask about availability of #11. Don't trust the online sites. Looks like a handful on eBay as well.
OOOPS! Yes, #12... previous post edited.I think you mean 12 ? right?
Meyle is never going to be the same as OE. The vast majority of aftermarket springs are a "1-size-fits-most", where the aftermarket mfr produces a generic spring that is similar to a half-dozen OE springs which are NOT the same, and claim it "fits" or is "suitable for". This is almost never the case. The Meyle could be an exact reproduction of the OE #12, but I'd be surprised if this is true.Still trying to figure out the rear springs
I found these on fcp Euro as it states it is same as OE 1243241204
Yes, I have seen both on Ebay.Meyle is never going to be the same as OE. The vast majority of aftermarket springs are a "1-size-fits-most", where the aftermarket mfr produces a generic spring that is similar to a half-dozen OE springs which are NOT the same, and claim it "fits" or is "suitable for". This is almost never the case. The Meyle could be an exact reproduction of the OE #12, but I'd be surprised if this is true.
However, you could gamble on the Meyles and see what arrives. Measure it carefully and compare to the coil spring spec spreadsheet on W124performance.com. At $60/pair it's a cheap experiment. Note that FCP says these ship in 2-3 weeks, meaning they are not in stock, and it could take a month or more to arrive.
I'd look for a good used set from someone parting out an 034. There's a single NOS #12 on UK eBay (link) which is obviously new / NOS, although it doesn't show the part number stamped on the bottom coil. Be careful, some sellers have bad listings, like this one which claims NOS but looks used, not new, and also does not show the part number stamped into the bottom coil.
![]()
Here is fcp email to me (which is weird because I don't have sls)Meyle is never going to be the same as OE. The vast majority of aftermarket springs are a "1-size-fits-most", where the aftermarket mfr produces a generic spring that is similar to a half-dozen OE springs which are NOT the same, and claim it "fits" or is "suitable for". This is almost never the case. The Meyle could be an exact reproduction of the OE #12, but I'd be surprised if this is true.
However, you could gamble on the Meyles and see what arrives. Measure it carefully and compare to the coil spring spec spreadsheet on W124performance.com. At $60/pair it's a cheap experiment. Note that FCP says these ship in 2-3 weeks, meaning they are not in stock, and it could take a month or more to arrive.
I'd look for a good used set from someone parting out an 034. There's a single NOS #12 on UK eBay (link) which is obviously new / NOS, although it doesn't show the part number stamped on the bottom coil. Be careful, some sellers have bad listings, like this one which claims NOS but looks used, not new, and also does not show the part number stamped into the bottom coil.
![]()
Yeah... nope.Here is fcp email to me (which is weird because I don't have sls)
"This spring is only available in Germany and we would only be able to visually verify specific details by ordering it in, which would take upwards of 2-3 weeks. The best way to confirm fitment would be through the OEM number, which does not match the number that your VIN calls for. Your VIN calls for spring PN 124 324 26 04."
yep. definitely NOT ordering it!! LOLYeah... nope.
Spring @ 124 324 26 04 is with optional SLS, which your car does not have (and, 99.99% of 034's in USA also do not have).
EPC shows #12 spring with "Standard" (non-SLS) suspension... screenshot below.
Interesting that the Meyle Malaysia would come out of Grrmany.
View attachment 203255
There's no way to cut the rear spring without removing it first. Use sheward's method above to lower the inside of the LCA and release tension, then remove the spring. Remember the bolt must only be tightened with the suspension in ready-to-drive position, not with the suspension/wheel fully extended. This is not easy to do.Would like to cut the rear spring a little
Does the spring have to come off the car or if I jack the car and let it hang safe ?
Thanks
I've always been suspicious of cutting springs. Doesn't it open the spring up to corrosion?only cut about 1/4 coil off.
Theoretically, yes, unless the exposed / cut end is painted or otherwise treated with a protective coating.I've always been suspicious of cutting springs. Doesn't it open the spring up to corrosion?
R
What I did was jack up the control arm placing the jack right at the front of the control arm behind the brake rotor while the car is on jack stands until it got to about where it normally sits then tighten the bolts. Or ask the shop you get an alignment at afterwards to open and retorque those bolts.There's no way to cut the rear spring without removing it first. Use sheward's method above to lower the inside of the LCA and release tension, then remove the spring. Remember the bolt must only be tightened with the suspension in ready-to-drive position, not with the suspension/wheel fully extended. This is not easy to do.