M119.982 upper timing chain guides and camshaft oiler tubes

[tourmalinegreen2690]

So, to start it all off I've been experiencing a pretty loud lifter tick that probably stems from the infamous plastic camshaft oiler tubes so I decided to go ahead with the swap and also change out the plastic upper timing chain guides while I'm at it. I've been looking at this thread HOW-TO: Replacing M119 camshaft oiler tubes | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles - and I have two questions, would the process be any different on the M119.982 (I'll mention that the car is a 1997 SL500 not an E500 as well) ? And my second question is how do you guys source the aluminium part, it seems pretty impossible to find here in Europe, and the delivery fees from the US would basically double their price? I was thinking of using the OEM mercedes plastic part as I assume they won't go bad for a long time but If I could I'd rather use the proper aluminium ones.

 

[gsxr]

The job will be nearly identical on the .98x engine, vs the .97x engine.

There has to be a source for the R&S aftermarket aluminium oil tubes in Europe. Otherwise, try to find a good used set of OE metal tubes either on eBay, or sometimes a set pops up for sale in the forum classifieds.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[TerryA]

From time to time there are used sets sold on this forum with new O-Rings for $250 to $300. Check the parts for sale thread. I think most all M119s use the same tubes.

The only aftermarket option I’m aware of is the R&S Set which is more $$$$.

Edit: Dave can type faster than me.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

The job will be nearly identical on the .98x engine, vs the .97x engine.

There has to be a source for the R&S aftermarket aluminium oil tubes in Europe. Otherwise, try to find a good used set of OE metal tubes either on eBay, or sometimes a set pops up for sale in the forum classifieds.

Welcome to the forum!

I really can t find any source for R&S parts online, I assumed my best bet would be getting them from a forum but I can t really find any here or on other forums. Might just have to use plastic ones and be prepared to do the job again in a few years lol. And thank you, I ve been a long time lurker on the forum without ever making an account lol

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

From time to time there are used sets sold on this forum with new O-Rings for $250 to $300. Check the parts for sale thread. I think most all M119s use the same tubes.

The only aftermarket option I’m aware of is the R&S Set which is more $$$$.

Edit: Dave can type faster than me.

I don t really want to drive the car with that tick, i assume it s quite bad for the lifters and it bothers me a lot lol so I wanted to get on with the job as soon as possible. Might be on the lookout for aluminium ones so I can store them until the new plastic ones inevitably go bad.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

The job will be nearly identical on the .98x engine, vs the .97x engine.

There has to be a source for the R&S aftermarket aluminium oil tubes in Europe. Otherwise, try to find a good used set of OE metal tubes either on eBay, or sometimes a set pops up for sale in the forum classifieds.

Welcome to the forum!

I have another quick question, what do you guys think about febi guides for the timing chain? Should I pay the premium for the OE parts or are they good? (quite a steep difference at my local shop) . Also the gaskets as far as I ve read here should be OEM parts right?

 

[R129 UK]

I don t really want to drive the car with that tick, i assume it s quite bad for the lifters and it bothers me a lot lol so I wanted to get on with the job as soon as possible. Might be on the lookout for aluminium ones so I can store them until the new plastic ones inevitably go bad.

My 1998 SL500 had a ticking noise when I bought it, I (incorrectly) assumed it was oiler tubes but eventually found out it was due to a collapsed lifter. I contacted a previous owner because their mobile number was in the documents I received with the car and they told me the engine had behaved the same during their ownership some 50K miles earlier so I don't think there is any major panic to fix. My camshafts were in perfect condition and overall the engine looks in amazing condition internally despite this issue not being resolved previously.

I have another quick question, what do you guys think about febi guides for the timing chain? Should I pay the premium for the OE parts or are they good? (quite a steep difference at my local shop) . Also the gaskets as far as I ve read here should be OEM parts right?

IMO, go OE for all of these parts, no real reason not to unless the price is absolutely extortionate.

Keep an eye out for metal tubes, they do pop up for sale from time to time.

 

[gsxr]

I have another quick question, what do you guys think about febi guides for the timing chain? Should I pay the premium for the OE parts or are they good? (quite a steep difference at my local shop) . Also the gaskets as far as I ve read here should be OEM parts right?

OE / Genuine Mercedes only for the timing chain rails/guides.

There's a slight chance Febi could be repackaged OE... but I doubt it.

Valve cover gaskets, yes, also Genuine/OE. The "kits" are NLA and now you have to buy the main gasket separately from the 4 round donuts at each spark plug hole (5 total pieces). There's some confusing/wrong information out there on the new/replacement part numbers, make sure to get the right stuff.

 

[gerryvz]

You can find them here:

Rauch & Spiegel 1191800266, 119266 Cam Oiler Pipe/Line - Mercedes | 06933024001 1191800066 1191800266SK A1191800266

Ensure proper lubrication with the Rauch & Spiegel Cam Oiler Pipe/Line (part number 1191800266) designed for Mercedes SL500, S500, and E500. This component is essential for maintaining engine performance by delivering oil to critical areas.

www.autohausaz.com

Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY the aftermarket tubes made by "URO Parts".


Here is another kind of tube that I've not seen before - I do not know the quality of them, but FYI:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/277651340397

 

[gsxr]

Never heard of "MotorKing", but at $260/set I wouldn't be surprised if they are reboxed ÜRO.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

You can find them here:

Rauch & Spiegel 1191800266, 119266 Cam Oiler Pipe/Line - Mercedes | 06933024001 1191800066 1191800266SK A1191800266

Ensure proper lubrication with the Rauch & Spiegel Cam Oiler Pipe/Line (part number 1191800266) designed for Mercedes SL500, S500, and E500. This component is essential for maintaining engine performance by delivering oil to critical areas.

www.autohausaz.com

Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY the aftermarket tubes made by "URO Parts".
View attachment 237957

Here is another kind of tube that I've not seen before - I do not know the quality of them, but FYI:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/277651340397

They're not available anymore sadly, I'll order them as soon as they come back to stock. Yep, I've read around here to avoid anything URO at all costs lol. For now I ordered everything genuine MB for everything else and will wait to catch out some good aluminium ones or if 2-3 weeks pass I'll just get the original plastic ones and do this operation again in (hopefully) 10 years lol. Thank you guys for your help, I'll let you know how it goes !

 

[gsxr]

Pelican and FCP both claim to have them in stock, but you would need to contact them and ask if they have 16 (or more) available to ship:

Mercedes Camshaft Oiler Connector - Rauch Spiegel 1191800266

Mercedes Camshaft Oiler Connector - Rauch Spiegel 1191800266

www.fcpeuro.com

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1191800266.htm?pn=119-180-02-66-M157&

 

[TerryA]

That’s a lot of money @ $35,75 each / $572.00. The MB plastic set is pretty expensive also. IMOP, I would wait for now and just replace the bad plastic ones and wait for a set of OE aluminum ones hopefully for $200 to $250. It might be a PITA and add little more work but I think worth it.

 

[R129 UK]

That’s a lot of money @ $35,75 each / $572.00. The MB plastic set is pretty expensive also. IMOP, I would wait for now and just replace the bad plastic ones and wait for a set of OE aluminum ones hopefully for $200 to $250. It might be a PITA and add little more work but I think worth it.

Agreed, plus if you don’t have a huge time gap between the interim fix and full replacement you can reuse the new valve cover gaskets so no extra cost there.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

Pretty much done with the job, one side had a tube with it s cap blown off, the tubes on the other side looked fine ( but the o rings were basically rotten so I m guessing they still weren t really working properly). I think camshaft looks quite good for 150k miles, what do you guys think?

 

[R129 UK]

Pretty much done with the job, one side had a tube with it s cap blown off, the tubes on the other side looked fine ( but the o rings were basically rotten so I m guessing they still weren t really working properly). I think camshaft looks quite good for 150k miles, what do you guys think? View attachment 243681

That all looks in good shape to me, very similar to mine in fact.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

That all looks in good shape to me, very similar to mine in fact.

I'm a little worried about not finding any tubes with their caps blown off on the driver side as the ticking was coming from both sides (even though I assume O-rings / invisible cracks could be the cause or even clogged tubes) because if there is an actual collapsed lifter that seems like a way harder job than this. Was your ticking intermittent ? Mine used to randomly stop and start

 

[R129 UK]

I'm a little worried about not finding any tubes with their caps blown off on the driver side as the ticking was coming from both sides (even though I assume O-rings / invisible cracks could be the cause or even clogged tubes) because if there is an actual collapsed lifter that seems like a way harder job than this. Was your ticking intermittent ? Mine used to randomly stop and start

Mine was constant, if you still have the valve covers off its easy to check for a collapsed lifter - rotate the engine clockwise from the crankshaft pulley (27mm socket) and as each cam is "free" push down on it with something non-metallic and if the lifter can be easily compressed it is faulty.

Draw a schematic of the 32 lifters and mark each one off as you test it otherwise you will be rotating the engine a lot of times for fun.

Remove the spark plugs to make the rotation easier with no compression.

 

[gsxr]

Your cams and cylinder heads look super clean. Very nice.

If NO plastic tubes had the ends popped, and you had ticking, you may have one or more collapsed lifters. This is pretty unusual though. The O-rings should have little to no effect unless one was completely missing.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

Your cams and cylinder heads look super clean. Very nice.

If NO plastic tubes had the ends popped, and you had ticking, you may have one or more collapsed lifters. This is pretty unusual though. The O-rings should have little to no effect unless one was completely missing.

There were a few that looked in pretty bad shape (the tubes themselves I mean), but on the driver's side there were none with their end popped. I'm still hoping there are no collapsed lifters as there were times when the ticking would stop completely (on both sides) - but for example if I stopped the car even for one second and restarted it they would start again. I will check for a collapsed lifter this evening. You have to remove the cam in order to fix a collapsed lifter, right?

 

[R129 UK]

You have to remove the cam in order to fix a collapsed lifter, right?

Yes.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

Welp, hopefully a clogged/cracked tube was the reason. Taking off the cams will surely be annoying. The ticking on the passenger's side (where the popped tube was) was a lot louder so I'm still quite optimistic about it being a tube. What mileage did your lifter fail at?

 

[R129 UK]

What mileage did your lifter fail at?

It was ticking when I bought it, I incorrectly assumed it was a blown oiler tube and got some money off the car.

I contacted a previous owner who told me it was ticking during his ownership which was 50K miles previously!!

I guess I'm fortunate there was no cam wear or damage.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

I guess it had just enough oil to not cause damage and afaik the cams are insanely durable on M119s. I bought the car with the ticking as well, but I can't know for sure for how long it had been ticking since I cannot contact previous owners (the car was imported from the US just a few years ago), but it's probably been some time - and the cams still look to be in good shape. I wonder how long is too long for this kind of ticking to cause cam wear, or if it ever will lol.

 

[tourmalinegreen2690]

Drove it quite a bit over the weekend and I had no more ticking, so I got lucky, no collapsed lifters.