thanks for answering, i didn't do the correct procedure, what is the procedure to leave piston 1 in the correct position, does the pulley have to be at 45c ?
You'd need to remove the #1 spark plug and insert a long, thin rod through the spark plug hole. A long 3/8" extension works well but any thin, stiff rod will work. rotate the engine and try to figure out when the piston is at TDC (maximum height). The pointer should be close to "0" on the balancer with the piston at TDC.
To check cam timing you must remove both valve covers, rotate the engine and "pin" each camshaft one at a time, and read the number off the balancer. With a new chain and new rails all four should pin at 45° BTDC. With an old chain or broken rails they might be somewhere between 35°-45° BTDC, if so, replace the broken rails first and check again with new rails. "Normal" with an old chain and new rails will be about 40°-45° BTDC.
If the chain has jumped on any of the sprockets, there will be a large difference in measurement. One tooth = 20° at the crank, so if one camshaft had jumped 1 tooth, that camshaft will read 25° BTDC (or, 15°-25° with broken rails / old chain)... etc.
Thank you very much for replying, I'll do this procedure and get back to you with the results.
thanks I have the 6mm drill bit here,
You can start on one side and see what the results are, but you really need to check all 4 cams... and inspect ALL the plastic chain rails.
hi friends, i did the procedure to find out the timing of the crank pulley and got the following result, with cylinder 1 in the highest position, it looked like in the attached photo.You can start on one side and see what the results are, but you really need to check all 4 cams... and inspect ALL the plastic chain rails.
That looks correct, only a few degrees away from 0 / TDC. The balancer / pointer should be fine.
The 45° BTDC spec is used for checking the camshafts, when pinned as described in the FSM job 05-2230 (click here).
thank you very much for replying, so the next step will be to remove the valve cover and check the chain synchronization, is there any special procedure for removing the valve cover?
Correct.
No special procedure, but some of the lower bolts may be difficult to access. And, some of the rubber hoses may break when removed, replace them as needed. Make sure to use new copper washers for the bolts when re-installing, along with a new OE/Genuine gasket.
One question: does the fact that the engine is turning easily on the crank mean that it hasn't hit any valves or cylinders, or at least minimizes this chance?
Very likely, yes. Next step is verifying cam timing (check each of the 4 cams separately, it will require lots of rotating the engine by hand).
There's what looks like quite a bit of oil on the pulleys and belt etc which suddenly stops, did you spray anything in that area?
How many times did you rotate the engine (crankshaft) by hand?
Good catch - not sure what would cause the liquid. I'm guessing something sprayed or dripped while the belt was in that position for the photo?
I sprayed WD40 to clean the grease and make the photo more visible
I spun it 4 times and the result was the same
It was WD40 spray.
You will need a 5mm swiveling Allen socket (1/4" drive) and extension to get to the rear Allen screws on the valve covers.
Photos of the Koken 5mm swivel tool are here. There are some other brands available as well. You can access the bolts without this tool but it's more work. More discussion in this thread.
Thank you very much for replying, I'm going to buy this tool
Thank you very much for answering, the photos helped me now I know which tool to buy
thanks for replying, the central chain guide is missing a part compared to the photo of the complete guide obtained here on the forum, and analyzing my guide I noticed that it has a crack at the top, we can conclude that the cause of all these problems is the central chain guide.
thanks for replying, i agree we can conclude that it is the central guide, in comparing the photos i noticed that part of the guide is missing.
I don't know which issues the missing lower section on these guides may cause, if any at all, but another problem is all the pieces from the disintegrated parts spread around in the engine.
where it's marked in red, there's a crack in it, probably at some point a chain tooth was knocked out of sync.
Wouldn't this missing part of the guide throw the crankshaft out of sync?
Nope. The damaged upper guide between the pulleys will not cause the camshafts to be out of time.
Thank you very much for replying, yes the camshafts are out of sync with the crankshaft, I'll check again to make sure how many degrees are out.
Any guesses as to what might be causing the fault or why it's out of sync ?
Yes, if ANY cams are out of time, you should check all 4.
No.
Most likely there are broken guides below the cam sprockets causing the cams to measure a few degrees out of sync. You must check all the other chain rails.
Link to videos? What is the "cylinder failure", what fault code?
Thanks, I'll check.
What is the procedure for checking these guides below the came sprockets?
No need to open the front of the engine, you can check the chain guides using a flashlight. Search the forum for previous discussion about chain rail replacement.
It's just a visual check from above with good lighting. The most common rails that break are directly below the intake cam sprockets, hard to see without removing the intake cam and/or sprocket.
links videos engine running.
I rechecked the sync and it seems to be more than 20 degrees off, I did the procedure several times, a curiosity only one cam goes into sync (the 5mm pin fits) the other cam does not stay in sync, in the photos the cam pointed in red the 5mm pin passes only when it is more than 20 degrees off.
Now I have to worry about possible bent valves ?
It's still unlikely, but a simple compression test will tell you if any valves were bent. If any cylinder is abnormally low on compression, a leakdown test may show if it's the valves or not. I would be extremely surprised if there are any bent valves.
Replace all the upper chain rails (probably no need to replace either chain rail located down low behind the timing cover), get all 4 camshafts back into sync at 40-45° BTDC. Read post #3 at this link, then read the entire thread.
Perform the compression test next, before replacing chain rails or correcting cam timing. Then replace chain rails and fix cam timing, and afterwards repeat the compression test.
thanks for replying, i'll do the whole procedure and get back to you soon with the results.It's still unlikely, but a simple compression test will tell you if any valves were bent. If any cylinder is abnormally low on compression, a leakdown test may show if it's the valves or not. I would be extremely surprised if there are any bent valves.
Replace all the upper chain rails (probably no need to replace either chain rail located down low behind the timing cover), get all 4 camshafts back into sync at 40-45° BTDC. Read post #3 at this link, then read the entire thread.
Perform the compression test next, before replacing chain rails or correcting cam timing. Then replace chain rails and fix cam timing, and afterwards repeat the compression test.
Once you have eliminated all mechanical issues related to compression & cam timing & valves, if the engine is still not running properly, it must be related to ignition or fuel delivery.
A 5mm pin is a bit small and can go in at quite an angle and give a misleading result.
Hi friend, are the chain guides I should replace the ones shown in red 6, 8, 14, 16, 26?It's still unlikely, but a simple compression test will tell you if any valves were bent. If any cylinder is abnormally low on compression, a leakdown test may show if it's the valves or not. I would be extremely surprised if there are any bent valves.
Replace all the upper chain rails (probably no need to replace either chain rail located down low behind the timing cover), get all 4 camshafts back into sync at 40-45° BTDC. Read post #3 at this link, then read the entire thread.
Perform the compression test next, before replacing chain rails or correcting cam timing. Then replace chain rails and fix cam timing, and afterwards repeat the compression test.
Once you have eliminated all mechanical issues related to compression & cam timing & valves, if the engine is still not running properly, it must be related to ignition or fuel delivery.
