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1971 Mercedes W114 250C Stroke 8

Beautiful, Karl! I'm always impressed with what a master you are at making small changes here and there that all come together for a fantastic overall look. I guess this is what it means to have a "good eye"!

Thx Janos, I enjoy transforming cars into what I think that they should have looked like when they came from the factory. I always get input from others also, guys like Glen and others on this board are the real masters, I'm just a student.
 
Love your coupe, Karl! You do exquisite work and it seems to just get better.

Thx Klink ! There is always something to improve on, and as I said above many on this board have been a big help.

By the way I always enjoy your post, you have been a great addition to this board !!!
 
Thx Klink ! There is always something to improve on, and as I said above many on this board have been a big help.

By the way I always enjoy your post, you have been a great addition to this board !!!

Aye Herr Klink!
 
Karl, can you relay specific information on what you did to lower the car?

love the look, really well done.

Hello Steve and welcome to the board !

What brings you here do you have a 036 car ?

AS far as my 71 250C nothing special was done, just #1 pads all around and removed a bit from the coil springs. Do you have a W114 or the like ?

Thx for the nice comments, I'm enjoying the car !

 
I use to have a 108 4.5 and really miss the marque. I am hopefully finding out today if I am the new owner of a 71 w114 coupe. An estate situation and m offer was pending. I'm looking to clean it up and I liked what you did with yours.
When you say a bit removed, can you be more specific.
 
I use to have a 108 4.5 and really miss the marque. I am hopefully finding out today if I am the new owner of a 71 w114 coupe. An estate situation and m offer was pending. I'm looking to clean it up and I liked what you did with yours.
When you say a bit removed, can you be more specific.

Hopefully it works out for you.

Where are you located? I'm in San Diego Ca.

I will have to see if I have notes on what we did, Glen on this board was the brains behind the where to cut line.

If you get it I highly recommend getting a set of the OEM 14" Alloy wheels, its like adding 50hp to the car. Amazing.
 
Thx, I just cleaned and polished them up before I installed them.

That's great, I have two sets for spares but the reflectors are in pretty bad shape. The ones on the car are not that great either. A friend of mine just purchased some German chrome paint (not an aerosol) and is planning to do the reflectors on his W111 coupe. I'll wait to see his results as it may be an option.
 
That's great, I have two sets for spares but the reflectors are in pretty bad shape. The ones on the car are not that great either. A friend of mine just purchased some German chrome paint (not an aerosol) and is planning to do the reflectors on his W111 coupe. I'll wait to see his results as it may be an option.

Mine where in pretty good shspe to start with, hope yours are also
 
I'm in Colorado Springs. I'm curious on the wheels you have too. Any pictures without the caps?

The stock wheels are all black

The light weight alloy wheels have 4 white lines on them like this ....

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Then there are wider light weight alloy wheels that a solid white line on them, but they are really rare and $$$
 
Not for a couple weeks. It's a full 8 hr round trip from home and I can't break away right now. It's not anywhere as clean as your find, I'm just hoping the low humidity gives me a break in the critical areas. I'm buying it nearly blind as I was doing the appraisal of the personal property which this was not part of, so I was on the clock with the personal rep. so I got a few quick shots of it but did not get to check it over.
 
Not for a couple weeks. It's a full 8 hr round trip from home and I can't break away right now. It's not anywhere as clean as your find, I'm just hoping the low humidity gives me a break in the critical areas. I'm buying it nearly blind as I was doing the appraisal of the personal property which this was not part of, so I was on the clock with the personal rep. so I got a few quick shots of it but did not get to check it over.

Be sure to check the usual places these cars can have rust.

You will also likely have issues with the carbs, I was lucky as mine did get driven at times and had the carbs rebuild not long ago.
 
Be sure to check the usual places these cars can have rust.

You will also likely have issues with the carbs, I was lucky as mine did get driven at times and had the carbs rebuild not long ago.

Yes, I expect to have carb issues.
 
They did make a Euro 250CE, I've owned one since I was 19 and just recently gave it to a neighbor in the UK for parts. They use the M114 engine instead of the M130. The main problem with those old parts is that they have to source them in good working order which can sometimes be difficult.

I still own a 72 280CE with a 4 speed here in the US. It was an import from Italy.

I think that I may have a weber conversion knocking around somewhere from a 250C that I bought a long time ago.
 
That looks like a lot of work. Did the not make a euro 250CE ? If so can those parts be used ?

I think I would go with the Holy or Weber conversion before trying what the guy in the link is doing.

It's been at least 20 years since I've done one, but these guys made some sweet kits back in the day. It looks like they still do http://www.jameng.com/
 
They did make a Euro 250CE, I've owned one since I was 19 and just recently gave it to a neighbor in the UK for parts. They use the M114 engine instead of the M130. The main problem with those old parts is that they have to source them in good working order which can sometimes be difficult.

I still own a 72 280CE with a 4 speed here in the US. It was an import from Italy.

I think that I may have a weber conversion knocking around somewhere from a 250C that I bought a long time ago.

If it was from this company I can attest that those were very nice kits. http://www.jameng.com/
 
I was told that it was a Jam engineering kit , but to be honest my experience is with the FI cars only and I"m not familiar at all with the carb setup. To me it just looks like a pile of carb parts. I've held onto it because I've very fond of the W114's and expect that I'll probably own another some day.

What i'd really love (love love love) is a W114 280E with a 5 speed.
 
They did make a Euro 250CE, I've owned one since I was 19 and just recently gave it to a neighbor in the UK for parts. They use the M114 engine instead of the M130. The main problem with those old parts is that they have to source them in good working order which can sometimes be difficult.

I still own a 72 280CE with a 4 speed here in the US. It was an import from Italy.

I think that I may have a weber conversion knocking around somewhere from a 250C that I bought a long time ago.

Is the kit still boxed up and complete? If so, are you looking to unload it?
 
Does anybody know what the code 540 "seat adapter between front seats" means?

If a vehicle of this vintage was ordered with a steering column mounted gearshift, an additional option was available that essentially consisted of a large firm cushion that could be inserted in a correspondingly large storage tray between the front seats, giving you a kinda/sorta bench seat cushion. Realize that this did nothing to fill the back rest area gap between the two front seats, so exactly how useful this device was I can't say...
 
Is the kit still boxed up and complete? If so, are you looking to unload it?

Hi, not looking at unloading it right now. Believe it or not, the /8 is my favorite MB as it was the first that started the obsession. I fully expect to own a signal red 75 250 some day :)

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Re: Don't Fall into the Gap!

If a vehicle of this vintage was ordered with a steering column mounted gearshift, an additional option was available that essentially consisted of a large firm cushion that could be inserted in a correspondingly large storage tray between the front seats, giving you a kinda/sorta bench seat cushion. Realize that this did nothing to fill the back rest area gap between the two front seats, so exactly how useful this device was I can't say...

Klink is exactly correct regarding this feature. Additionally, a driver's seat mounted armrest becomes a backrest when flipped in the "Up" position.

This device is extremely useful & required for Summer touring front seat comfort. My 220b is fitted with this combo. Chicks insist on having no separation from the driver!

However, if need be, remove the cushion & flip the armrest down to provide a "safe driving" barrier.
 
Re: Don't Fall into the Gap!

Klink is exactly correct regarding this feature. Additionally, a driver's seat mounted armrest becomes a backrest when flipped in the "Up" position.

This device is extremely useful & required for Summer touring front seat comfort. My 220b is fitted with this combo. Chicks insist on having no separation from the driver!

However, if need be, remove the cushion & flip the armrest down to provide a "safe driving" barrier.

Now, that makes perfect sense! The addition of the armrest option was so obvious, I didn't think of it. Does your Heckflosse have this set up?

Also, with your date closer to you and farther away from the seatbelt (if it even has belts!), the opportunities for "stopping short" are just about endless! I like it!!

:hitit:
 
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Re: Don't Fall into the Gap!

Now, that makes perfect sense! And with your date closer to you and farther away from the seatbelt (if it even has belts), the opportunities for "stopping short" are just about endless! I like it!!

:hitit:
 
Re: Don't Fall into the Gap!

Now, that makes perfect sense! The addition of the armrest option was so obvious, I didn't think of it. Does your Heckflosse have this set up?

Also, with your date closer to you and farther away from the seatbelt (if it even has belts!), the opportunities for "stopping short" are just about endless! I like it!!

:hitit:


Fail My Astronaut! A few short stops in the finnie with that set up, and you will be falling into "the gap" for sure! Andy, Derf; you guys got my back on this one or am I out on my own here?
 
If a vehicle of this vintage was ordered with a steering column mounted gearshift, an additional option was available that essentially consisted of a large firm cushion that could be inserted in a correspondingly large storage tray between the front seats, giving you a kinda/sorta bench seat cushion. Realize that this did nothing to fill the back rest area gap between the two front seats, so exactly how useful this device was I can't say...
Great info, thanks. I guess when I got the car that would have been obvious. Just going through the build card checking numbers..
 
So bad news on the new ride, compression check shows 2 cylinders are dead, (63 instead of 120). Any advice on potential causes? Car sat 6 years and engine was reported to have been rebuilt within a few months of sitting
 
So bad news on the new ride, compression check shows 2 cylinders are dead, (63 instead of 120). Any advice on potential causes? Car sat 6 years and engine was reported to have been rebuilt within a few months of sitting

Could be several things, including a false rebuild report (unless documented).

Possible Causes: :banana1:

Broken piston ring(s)
Extremely worn or scored cylinder wall
Valve or valve seat problem
Hole or crack in piston
Blown head gasket
Cracked head or block


Any car that has sat for a long time should be cranked over manually, preferably after squirting clean light-weight or penetrating oil into each cylinder thru the sparkplug holes.

By turning the crankshaft manually, you will "feel" whether it turns freely or if binding. If it turns freely the cylinders walls will benefit by the lubrication. Rings bound to the cylinder walls via oxidation can be broken/bent & score the cylinder walls if the starter/battery are used to start an engine that has sat for that long.

The coil wire should only be connected to provide combustion once it is determined that the pistons move freely within their cylinders.

Preventative maintenance: Conversely, If the car is going to be stored extensively, always squirt oil in thru the spark plug holes & rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to coat the cylinder walls. This will prevent oxidation of cylinder walls & rings to wall.
 
Dang Karl, that is/was a kind price for an awesome car...wrong coast , again (big sigh)

My friend is selling his sorta the same car in the latest STAR here in CT (and wants way too much for it AND it was driven in the winters up here !)... I passed on it at 15 after crawling under it.

Wicked cool bike ! .... looks expensive.
 
Dang Karl, that is/was a kind price for an awesome car...wrong coast , again (big sigh)

My friend is selling his sorta the same car in the latest STAR here in CT (and wants way too much for it AND it was driven in the winters up here !)... I passed on it at 15 after crawling under it.

Wicked cool bike ! .... looks expensive.

I was very happy with the price considering what I had into it. Its on its way to NC, who knows maybe they will sell it for more ?

Its a $10K bike I got for $2K, so not to bad, as always try an buy low an sell high and enjoy the ride along the way.

I will miss the car, never got so many complements, Thx !!
 
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Those hipsters at Mercedes Motoring are experts at buffing a car up for sale, and asking huge bucks for their cars, but they do little to nothing on the mechanical side.

I wonder why your buyer is selling it, already, Karl?
 

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