Car starts after 10 - 20 tries. It spins and spins until it engages.

[mbzgurl]

It starts better when it's cold. Once it warms up it takes forever to start, it spins and spins. I have to turn the key back to the start position and keep trying, When it's warmed up and I park the car somewhere, I dread it's not going to start but always does eventually. I have to turn it a bunch of times until it engages. Then when it starts it acts like it ran out of gas and stalls. When I finally get it running, the idle is choppy and doesn't go like it should. Goes ok at higher speeds. When I let off the gas it backfires a little sometimes.

 

[Kyiv]

To start with the basics: when was the last time distributor caps, rotors, and insulators changed?

 

[nocfn]

And once you answer that and decide to remove them all to replace, save yourself future issues and replace the cam seals if you see any evidence of oil trails or blow by - it will be obvious. If your cam magnets have oil around them as well, consider purchasing new with the proper armature for your VIN and new bolts. Doing the job once, properly is not difficult. With all the parts and proper planning, you can complete the job in a few hours one afternoon. If you do not have any records that this job has been done, just be proactive so that you can trust the car when you drive it. There may be other "while your are there jobs" to do, perhaps the power steering short hose replacement if it is leaking but I cannot remember.

 

[gsxr]

"the idle is choppy and doesn't go like it should" sounds like it could be ignition. I'll second the question by @kiev about when the caps/rotors/insulators were last inspected or replaced. And it should never, ever backfire.

 

[mbzgurl]

The fuel pressure regulator fixed all the problems except for the ignition starter problem. Someone suggested get a new starter, but I hesitate to buy one because it always starts sooner or later and sometimes it starts on the first crank. I think it doesn't need a starter because I've had this issue for 3 or 4 years. So, my question is, could it be the solenoid? Or a fuel problem? A vacuum problem? or...What is spinning?
I did replace the rotors, the caps, the wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, and the coil, (maybe a few other parts but can't remember right now) replaced about 10,000 miles ago. Now that the weather is 100º it is harder to start. I bought a new battery 2 weeks ago and wore it down cranking.

 

[gsxr]

Assuming you mean that you turn the key and the starter does not spin the engine - this sounds like it could be the starter solenoid, which is not sold separately. If the starter is old or original, I'd replace it on principle.

If you mean the starter spins the engine but the engine will not fire, that's a completely different scenario, and no, replacing the starter won't help - unless the starter is spinning too slowly. Can you post a video so we can hear how fast the starter is spinning the engine when it is cranking? I'm assuming you don't have an optical tachometer (link) to measure the cranking RPM.

 

[mbzgurl]

I believe the starter is original. The car has 122,000 miles on it and now everything is falling apart at the same time. Me too

Sorry, I don't have an optical tachometer or access to one. I will post a video as soon as I charge the battery. I need to buy a charger. So, what is the best charger without spending a fortune? My budget is $200. Or a better idea I could buy a starter instead. (The battery still has a charge enough to crank it.) Which starter and what to consider when buying one?

 

[TerryA]

@mbzgurl,
Buy a battery tender. Costco sells them for around $50. Should charge a dead battery in maybe 24 hours. You can hook it up for continuous charging while parked in a garage or driveway.

It won’t help if every time you start the car you run the battery down. It does sound like the starter may be bad. My starter failed around 115K miles but it just stopped working completely. You might want to have someone check out the system before you start throwing $$$ at it. Sometimes getting a diagnosis first will save you money. You might get lucky and a Tech finds the problem right away.

 

[gsxr]

I believe the starter is original. The car has 122,000 miles on it and now everything is falling apart at the same time. Me too.

I'm still confused about if the engine is cranking excessively and not firing, or if the starter is spinning (freewheeling) without cranking the engine, but in either case the battery is not at fault.

Sorry, I dont have an optical tachometer or access to one. I will post a video as soon as I charge the battery. I need to buy a charger. So, what is the best charger without spending a fortune? My budget is $200. Or a better idea I could buy a starter instead. (The battery still has a charge enough to crank it.)

If you don't need to charge the battery quickly, a small "battery tender" maintainer is fine - it may take 1-2 days to fully charge the battery though. Something like this BatteryMINDer 1510 for $60 with full-time desulfation would work nicely:

Amazon.com

Which starter and what to consider when buying one?

Bosch reman is pretty much the only option, period. P/N 004-151-78-01, about $175 aftermarket plus a refundable core charge (just make sure cost of return shipping doesn't exceed the core charge). Starter replacement info is in this thread. Takes 1-3 hours depending what surprises are encountered.

EDIT: I see you posted in that thread a couple years ago that your starter is "zinging", which I take to mean it spins/freewheels but doesn't crank the engine. If that's what is happening, your starter is BAD and should have been replaced years ago.

 

[mbzgurl]

And once you answer that and decide to remove them all to replace, save yourself future issues and replace the cam seals if you see any evidence of oil trails or blow by - it will be obvious. If your cam magnets have oil around them as well, consider purchasing new with the proper armature for your VIN and new bolts. Doing the job once, properly is not difficult. With all the parts and proper planning, you can complete the job in a few hours one afternoon. If you do not have any records that this job has been done, just be proactive so that you can trust the car when you drive it. There may be other while your are there jobs to do, perhaps the power steering short hose replacement if it is leaking but I cannot remember.

Do we have a link for replacing the cam seals? I don't see any oil trails, but I don't know where to look either. The car came with zero records. Like what other "while you're there" surprises might I find? Hummm? Oh, and how much is this going to cost me? Do you think I can do the job myself? I'm always interested in fixing my own car, but I have limitations...#1-I'm not as strong as a guy, lifting heavy things, turning a wrench, etc. #2-I'm too busty to fit under a car, #3-sometimes I don't have the right tools. #4- It's too damn hot outside to work on a car. I don't have a garage, wish I did.

 

[mbzgurl]

Im still confused about if the engine is cranking excessively and not firing, or if the starter is spinning (freewheeling) without cranking the engine, but in either case the battery is not at fault.




If you dont need to charge the battery quickly, a small battery tender maintainer is fine - it may take 1-2 days to fully charge the battery though. Something like this BatteryMINDer 1510 for $60 with full-time desulfation would work nicely:

Amazon.com

Bosch reman is pretty much the only option, period. P/N 004-151-78-01, about $175 aftermarket plus a refundable core charge (just make sure cost of return shipping doesnt exceed the core charge). Starter replacement info is in this thread. Takes 1-3 hours depending what surprises are encountered.

EDIT: I see you posted in that thread a couple years ago that your starter is zinging, which I take to mean it spins/freewheels but doesnt crank the engine. If thats what is happening, your starter is BAD and should have been replaced years ago.





View attachment 168588

The engine only cranks after the starter stops spinning and resets itself. The engine is fine once I get it started. I personally think the solenoid is bad. And you're right I should have put a new starter in years ago. I did't drive the car very much, bearily 2,000 miles a year. My daily driver was an ML500 until it was stolen, so now I'm driving the "E" car again, only sometimes. It's definitely not a battery issue. I put a new battery in about 2 or 3 weeks ago. After so many turns of the key and it hasn't started, I put it to rest before I wear the battery down completely. Ok, so, when the mechanic is under the car changing the starter, what kind of surprises should I expect or be aware of? Or what else should be replaced while we're at it? I think I heard something about the mounts? I figure all the plastic parts, and rubber bushings, mounts, etc need replacement since I live in the desert with no garage. Everything cracks apart including me. Plus, I'm limited on funds so I can't do a lot all at once. Thanks for your advice which I always appreciate...
One more question; how often should I replace the spark plugs, rotor, etc? Change the fuel filter?

 

[TerryA]

@mbzgurl,
The starter can be replaced easily with the right tools and experience. It’s held in by 2 bolts only and the electrical connections. BUT it’s a PITA to get those 2 bolts out. I did it on my back in the driveway with a combination of long socket extensions.

Anyway, a Tech should make short work of it. I be surprised if he charged 2 hour’s labor.

BTW, That spinning starter motor can damage the teeth on the flywheel/torque converter. Best to get it changed before that happens.

PS: The while your in there stuff would probably be the 2 motor mounts and the transmission mount if they have never been changed.

Good Luck

 

[gsxr]

Do we have a link for replacing the cam seals? I dont see any oil trails, but I dont know where to look either. The car came with zero records. Like what other while youre there surprises might I find? Hummm?

There's not a formal "HOW-TO" on the cam seal replacement, but there have been posts showing how to do this. The seals are cheap but it's likely a few hours of DIY labor. To check if the seals are leaking you need to unbolt the distributor cap, then remove the rotor (3 bolts), then remove the rotor bracket (1 bolt) and insulator - the seals are visible behind the insulator. If they are bone dry you can leave them alone for now, although replacement is not a bad idea after 30 years.

Oh, and how much is this going to cost me? Do you think I can do the job myself? Im always interested in fixing my own car, but I have limitations...#1-Im not as strong as a guy, lifting heavy things, turning a wrench, etc. #2-Im too busty to fit under a car, #3-sometimes I dont have the right tools. #4- Its too damn hot outside to work on a car. I dont have a garage, wish I did.

Cam seal R&R is a medium/advanced DIY job. You must fabricate a tool to pull the new seals into place - a forum member showed photos of how to do this with hardware-store items. This job is done from above, with the hood open, not underneath the car. If too hot outside, work in early AM when it's cool less hot.

The engine only cranks after the starter stops spinning and resets itself. The engine is fine once I get it started. I personally think the solenoid is bad. And youre right I should have put a new starter in years ago. I didt drive the car very much, bearily 2,000 miles a year. My daily driver was an ML500 until it was stolen, so now Im driving the E car again, only sometimes. Its definitely not a battery issue. I put a new battery in about 2 or 3 weeks ago. After so many turns of the key and it hasnt started, I put it to rest before I wear the battery down completely.

The starter is overdue... replace it ASAP. The solenoid isn't sold separately.

Ok, so, when the mechanic is under the car changing the starter, what kind of surprises should I expect or be aware of?

If the mechanic is a Mercedes guy he'll know what to do. If it's a general mechanic that rarely works on Mercedes... read the "HOW-TO" article and let him know what's involved, or better yet print it out and make him read it, before starting the job.

One possible surprise is if the lower harness is original, it could have insulation flaking off which may cause problems. The harness is NLA, there's a repair harness available from Europe for ~$250 or so. Cross you fingers that you don't need this or the car could be down for a few weeks waiting for the part to ship from overseas (and then add another few hours labor). The lower harness goes to the starter, alternator, and oil pressure/level sensors.

Or what else should be replaced while were at it? I think I heard something about the mounts?

Engine mounts, if they are old/original, but this will add to the cost substantially... another ~$450 in parts if you buy them from Naperville, and another 4-6 hours of labor. Note that you'd pull the passenger engine mount first which gives more room to R&R the starter, but there's not labor savings for the driver side mount. If you are short on funds, do the engine mounts separately.

The lower harness is much easier to R&R with the starter out. Blue Ridge MB in Atlanta may sell a replacement harness on an exchange basis but I don't know their pricing.

I figure all the plastic parts, and rubber bushings, mounts, etc need replacement since I live in the desert with no garage. Everything cracks apart including me. Plus, Im limited on funds so I cant do a lot all at once. Thanks for your advice which I always appreciate...

Yeah... try to eyeball as many plastic/rubber items as you can. Some are relatively inexpensive and relatively easy DIY replacement from above with the hood up. Suspension stuff will be more costly & difficult.

One more question; how often should I replace the spark plugs, rotor, etc? Change the fuel filter?

Spark plugs: Every 30kmi, use NON-resistor Bosch F8DC4, Beru 14F-8DU4, or NGK BCP5ES. Gap at 1.0mm (slightly wider than the 0.8mm spec).

Caps & rotors are changed as-needed, but can last 50-75kmi, maybe longer.

Fuel filter is every 60kmi or so, use OE/OEM Hengst/Mann/Knecht/Mahle.

 

[JC220]

Cam seal replacement is covered here

FYI - Essential M119 Ignition "Tune Up" mods [Distributor cap vent / slot] | M119 Engine

Hi all, I have been meaning to address this on my little used 500E for years.... it is a problem I myself recognised about 5 years ago when I first looked at an m119 distributer cap..... Compare to any other distributor cap of the era such as an m104 and you will see there are NO ventilation...

www.500eboard.co

 

[gsxr]

Cam seal replacement is covered here

Thanks, JC!

Tip - the seals are cheap, buy 2 extras in case you damage any during installation. Someone else who just did this job reported that the Corteco brand seals installed easier than Elring seals (he did Elring first and encountered problems, had to buy more seals, got Corteco for the second attempt).