Chasing down an Oil Leak

[mnessari]

I lifted up the car today to inspect a leak from the back corner passenger side of the transmission pan.

Found this component real wet, is it possible to leak from here? This is a generic pic I don’t know what this is!

While looking I saw a pretty massive leak from the back side of the passenger side valve cover gasket from what it looks like. Can this leak on the passenger side be all related to valve cover gasket? Please see below

 

[gerryvz]

It's likely you probably do have a valve cover leak, yes. The best thing you can do is to clean the area thoroughly, then drive the car and see if it re-appears.

That first photo is the transmission overload protection switch. It has a couple of o-rings that can, indeed, leak. That rubber boot is NLA as a separate part, but there is a company in Germany that sells the boot as part of an overall connector. It's all documented here on the forum with a few searches - try overload protection switch as a starting point.

There's even a good HOW-TO on replacing the overload protection switch:

HOW-TO: Transmission Overload Protection Switch Removal | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

MODERATOR'S NOTE: There is a supplemental HOW-TO guide for this job, located here. It is advised to read both the original and supplemental HOW-TO guides to best understand and achieve this job. Today, I attempted to replace the transmission overload protection switch, located on the left...

www.500eboard.co

 

[nocfn]

that back side PSGR valve cover leak is generally from one or two things: Previous installer did not get the cover's seal placed properly in the back (think half moon shape) and/or they did not have a wobbly socket for the hex (4mm if IIRC - could be wrong on size). One does not need any sealant on the cover seal, nor does it belong on the engine's lip it seals. These are rubber and get hard, shrink with age and leak. The wobbly socket makes quick and precise torque on that back corner....

 

[mnessari]

It's likely you probably do have a valve cover leak, yes. The best thing you can do is to clean the area thoroughly, then drive the car and see if it re-appears.

That first photo is the transmission overload protection switch. It has a couple of o-rings that can, indeed, leak. That rubber boot is NLA as a separate part, but there is a company in Germany that sells the boot as part of an overall connector. It's all documented here on the forum with a few searches - try overload protection switch as a starting point.

There's even a good HOW-TO on replacing the overload protection switch:

HOW-TO: Transmission Overload Protection Switch Removal | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

MODERATOR'S NOTE: There is a supplemental HOW-TO guide for this job, located here. It is advised to read both the original and supplemental HOW-TO guides to best understand and achieve this job. Today, I attempted to replace the transmission overload protection switch, located on the left...

www.500eboard.co

that back side PSGR valve cover leak is generally from one or two things: Previous installer did not get the cover's seal placed properly in the back (think half moon shape) and/or they did not have a wobbly socket for the hex (4mm if IIRC - could be wrong on size). One does not need any sealant on the cover seal, nor does it belong on the engine's lip it seals. These are rubber and get hard, shrink with age and leak. The wobbly socket makes quick and precise torque on that back corner....

Thank you so much for the link and all the info! Much appreciated!!!

I have the vim swivel Allen socket set on the way so I will probably end up taking on this task within the next week or so. Wobbly socket, flexible extension, whatever I tried didn’t give me room to be able to take of that back left corner bolt for the valve cover.

 

[nocfn]

When you remove it finally, protect your fender (no rivets on jeans or belt buckles) get that hood in full service position and get up and over enough to properly install new seals if that is the plan and to torque properly and in a sequence for even application. Come back after 20-50 miles at temp and check that torque again. If you do not have metal cam oilers, consider the job along with upper chain guide RR, oil separator etc and etc. and if you are going further, do both sides and check for chain stretch.

 

[gsxr]

Are you leaking ATF or engine oil? If you don't know... figure that out first before proceeding. But in the meantime, degrease everything so you can identify the source.

 

[emerydc8]

Regarding identifying the leaks, I have found that cutting an old white shirt into strips and tying or zip-tying them in various places underneath helps to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Then I check them after driving a few days.

Regarding the rear bolt on the passenger-side valve cover, mine had been stripped so badly that I ended up drilling an access port in the firewall to get an Allen bolt extractor and 1/4” extension directly lined up on it. That would be a last resort, but you can install a rubber grommet or plug in the hole afterwards and it doesn’t look bad—If you can even see it with the cover installed.

I think the hardest part of the valve cover gaskets is keeping the half-moon retainer sections of the gaskets from being pulled off by the rear-most rockers as you install the covers. I‘ve had good experience using a drop of super glue only in back where the half-moons (rubber) touch the valve covers. Make sure there is no oil on the surface to be glued. Clearance is really tight as you slide the covers into position, especially on the passenger side. Be sure and feel that the seal is not crimped in back before tightening the bolts. Use a mirror stick if you have one to visually verify proper seal installation behind the valve covers. Most of the time this is the trouble area.

 

[gerryvz]

I second @emerydc8's recommendation of using a mirror and "feel" with your fingertips to check for a proper seal at the valve cover gasket. This is really the best way to guarantee a good seal. It may take 5-10 tries to get it fitted correctly. Don't lose patience.

 

[dionphaneuf]

Also undo/clear out all the fuel hoses and vacuum lines in the area when reinstalling to limit what you're fighting as you install these.

 

[mnessari]

Thank you all for the great tips! I definitely know there’s a valve cover leak due to finding oil as far back and maybe even further back than the lower harness. I think the overload protection switch is also leaking which is otw but the vim set just got here and I believe I may be starting the work sooner than anticipated.

Are you leaking ATF or engine oil? If you don't know... figure that out first before proceeding. But in the meantime, degrease everything so you can identify the source.

Regarding identifying the leaks, I have found that cutting an old white shirt into strips and tying or zip-tying them in various places underneath helps to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Then I check them after driving a few days.

Regarding the rear bolt on the passenger-side valve cover, mine had been stripped so badly that I ended up drilling an access port in the firewall to get an Allen bolt extractor and 1/4” extension directly lined up on it. That would be a last resort, but you can install a rubber grommet or plug in the hole afterwards and it doesn’t look bad—If you can even see it with the cover installed.

I think the hardest part of the valve cover gaskets is keeping the half-moon retainer sections of the gaskets from being pulled off by the rear-most rockers as you install the covers. I‘ve had good experience using a drop of super glue only in back where the half-moons (rubber) touch the valve covers. Make sure there is no oil on the surface to be glued. Clearance is really tight as you slide the covers into position, especially on the passenger side. Be sure and feel that the seal is not crimped in back before tightening the bolts. Use a mirror stick if you have one to visually verify proper seal installation behind the valve covers. Most of the time this is the trouble area.

I second @emerydc8's recommendation of using a mirror and "feel" with your fingertips to check for a proper seal at the valve cover gasket. This is really the best way to guarantee a good seal. It may take 5-10 tries to get it fitted correctly. Don't lose patience.

Also undo/clear out all the fuel hoses and vacuum lines in the area when reinstalling to limit what you're fighting as you install these.

 

[dionphaneuf]

I'd highly recommend just getting a low profile 5mm allen too - I have one that makes rear access super easy with a universal joint.
+1 to the 'rear moons' being the only real hard part of this job but a real PITA. As mentioned, just be patient and try, try again. The superglue idea is probably the trick of the trade to follow here.

VIM Tools 5 mm Hex Bit VIMSHM405 - The Home Depot

5 mm Hex 1-Piece Drive Bit, 1/4 in. square drive. Made of S2 alloy steel, the strongest, hardest drivers available. Heat treated to 56-62 RC.

www.homedepot.com

 

[mnessari]

What in the world is this? Floating between next to an oiler tube

 

[gsxr]

What in the world is this? Floating between next to an oiler tube

That's a rubber funnel and the plastic support bracket. It plugs into a hole in the cylinder head. A small pipe from the valve cover pokes into the rubber funnel. It's part of the PCV system.

 

[mnessari]

Any idea where it goes lol

 

[gsxr]

Any idea where it goes lol

Search the forum, there has been previous discussion with photos of where it belongs. There's only one location on the head where it will fit.

 

[gerryvz]

Any idea where it goes lol

See here.

And here.

and a little more here.

 

[nocfn]

Look at the underside of the valve cover there is a teat where it goes. Rather it shows you the location in the head.

 

[mnessari]

Thanks guys I found it but managed to snap off the funnel from separator.

 

[nocfn]

Nobody has ever done that……NOT!

 

[emerydc8]

At least one forum member has had a broken piece of this separator drop into the cylinder head with no reported problems. I wonder if that part is even available anymore.

 

[mnessari]

At least one forum member has had a broken piece of this separator drop into the cylinder head with no reported problems. I wonder if that part is even available anymore.

I was luckily able to wedge it out. I ordered the parts immediately from pelican

 

[nocfn]

Before you use Pelican, might want to look at FCPeuro, Autohausaz or the local dealer or MBoemparts.com

You may find original parts from MB or better issue with the aftermarkets there. JUST a FYI.