Summer warm weather no problem at all. Cold weather I start car in the morning and let it warm up for about 3 minutes before heading out. The car seems to shift out of 1st at a higher rpm than usual and when I get to the stop sign and try to drive off there is no pedal response. I have to shut off the car, wait about 20-30 seconds and then it will drive again just to get me to the next block. Same thing happens for a few more times. BUT when I let the car warm up to operating temp, about 80 C before heading out it works perfect just like summertime and stays fine throughout the day. This has been going on for the past 3 years and only notice it during the last week or so before the end of November just before I retire the car for 6 months. I cannot wait every time that 10 minutes or so to heat up the car every cold morning.Is there a temperature sensor or something that has to be replaced ? Tranny fluid level is OK,
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Cold engine accelerator problem
- Thread starter Patrick 95
- Start date
This sounds like the cold-start upshift delay. It is more pronounced in cold weather.
This sounds like limp mode. You shouldn't have to wait 20 seconds, just turn it off, and re-start. Are there any warning lights on the dash? If not, are all the bulbs good? Have you checked fault codes?
Is the ETA original or has it been rebuilt? You need to clear all fault codes, then drive the car to make the problem occur, and check codes again to see which ones returned. It isn't likely to be a temp sensor.
Sounds like the age old distributer moisture woes to me. Covered by 100s of threads and counting on this forum.
I believe we should have a ignition super thread and direct all new members to it immediately when they register and also Mods move all new questions on the topic to the super thread.
I believe we should have a ignition super thread and direct all new members to it immediately when they register and also Mods move all new questions on the topic to the super thread.
The main tell tale for me was the first statement that it was fine in the summer.
No misfiring at all. ETA is original , never touched. All regular yearly maintainance done, new plgs, wires, rotors etc. It's just that problem of cold weather acellerator problem. Car runs perfectly once warmed up. No yellow or red lights showing in the dash, no check engine light.
A couple of things:
1) Is your ASR lamp lighting up at the stop signs? When you turn your key to position 1, does your ASR light illuminate (so that you know the bulb is working)?
2) You need to pull codes and delete them, and then see what comes back.
3) It sounds like the upshift delay for cold starts is working as it should be.
I think this could be an ETA issue. Since your ETA is original, you should consider getting it rebuilt. The wiring on these (internal and external) is prone to going bad. The limp-home mode you are experiencing is telling.
1) Is your ASR lamp lighting up at the stop signs? When you turn your key to position 1, does your ASR light illuminate (so that you know the bulb is working)?
2) You need to pull codes and delete them, and then see what comes back.
3) It sounds like the upshift delay for cold starts is working as it should be.
I think this could be an ETA issue. Since your ETA is original, you should consider getting it rebuilt. The wiring on these (internal and external) is prone to going bad. The limp-home mode you are experiencing is telling.
Thanks all. I am going to have the dealer scan it for codes this week. The wiring harness has a white tag on by Delphi it saying the date of manufacture FD ( fabrication date ) 1996. All the dash bulbs light on ( including ASR ) just before the engine starts. I clean the MAF sensor once a year with CRC and keep everything clean under the hood.
That's a suspect date on the wiring harness, and within the date when faulty harnesses were still being produced. If you are at 1998 or later, you should be safe. That said, the harness may or may not be bad.
And remember, it's not just the upper wiring harnesses. The ETA harnesses also go bad (the external wiring from the ETA to the connector, and can cause some SERIOUSLY funky problems.
If you want to see what an original ETA's wiring cable looks like, with 142K miles on it, take a look at mine, which I replaced this summer. I had no running issues with my ETA, but this was the harness cable interior.
And remember, it's not just the upper wiring harnesses. The ETA harnesses also go bad (the external wiring from the ETA to the connector, and can cause some SERIOUSLY funky problems.
If you want to see what an original ETA's wiring cable looks like, with 142K miles on it, take a look at mine, which I replaced this summer. I had no running issues with my ETA, but this was the harness cable interior.
Remember that if codes have not been cleared in a long time, you'll get a pile of "useless" codes. You need to clear everything, repeat the fault (no throttle response / need to restart engine), and check codes when it happens after they were cleared. This will show you current codes. You can do this yourself with a hand-held blink code reader.
You may know this already, but the dealer will likely charge you $150 for connecting Star diagnostics and handing you a printout of the old faults, and send you on your way... better off having them keep it overnight and experiencing the problem first-hand.
You may know this already, but the dealer will likely charge you $150 for connecting Star diagnostics and handing you a printout of the old faults, and send you on your way... better off having them keep it overnight and experiencing the problem first-hand.
If it is the wiring harness at fault then why is it fine during the hot summer months like from May to October ? And why also does the problem go away when the engine in warmed up ?Does outside temperature affect the harness or maybe something else related to outside temperature change. I am thinking anything that contracts with cold like fluids or perhaps sensors that neet to get warmed up. Just a thought.
Not that I am aware of.
Just to be sure to be sure have you:
Removed both distributers and insulators behind same to check for moisture?
Renewed the insulator discs behind the caps?
If you want to go other routes first that's fine but IMO this requires checking first.
Thanks, will check that. Car is due to hibernate till May this week so if I can't do it now it will have to wait. But yes, I will have the codes pulled and other stuff to check and will post back whenever that time comes. Meanwhile I have a 4X4 that's coming out the garage to make room.
Any scanner out there that is good for my 1995 S420 and a 1998 SL500 ? I am looking for one that also can read transmission codes and cost like under $300 ? what do you recommend. I figure that these cars are getting old and will be needing several trips to the MB dealers just for code scanning in the future years.
Based on the latest post, this thread appears to be about a W140 model, not a W124 500E/E500, and thus is out of the core focus and scope for this forum.
As such, this thread is being moved to the more proper “Off topics” sub-forum.
I am sure that people will continue to engage and assist where possible, but it is always helpful if, up front, you state the model that you are asking the questions about rather than disclosing this information so late into the thread.
The purview of this forum is the W124 chassis V-8 models with the M119 engine. While information here for other models that use the M119 may be relevant (and may not be), it is IMPERATIVE that threads be classified into the correct sub-forum. All non-W124 topics go into the “Off Topic” forum.
That’s just the way it is.
As such, this thread is being moved to the more proper “Off topics” sub-forum.
I am sure that people will continue to engage and assist where possible, but it is always helpful if, up front, you state the model that you are asking the questions about rather than disclosing this information so late into the thread.
The purview of this forum is the W124 chassis V-8 models with the M119 engine. While information here for other models that use the M119 may be relevant (and may not be), it is IMPERATIVE that threads be classified into the correct sub-forum. All non-W124 topics go into the “Off Topic” forum.
That’s just the way it is.
1995 S420 has the same engine management (LH-SFI) and needs the same scanner as all W124 with M119. The Star Diagnostics (SDS) is the best, but make sure whatever you buy includes HHT-Win which is required for the 1990's cars. You're looking at closer to $500 including a laptop. A lot of the recent SDS kits lack HHT-Win support, so be careful when buying.
A Snap-On MT2500 with appropriate cables & cartridge will get you data from most powertrain modules, but little if anything else... might be able to assemble the pieces needed for ~$300.
I don't think you're going to find anything else in the $300 range, and even in the $1k+ range most of them will not work properly (if at all) on the 1992-1995 OBD-1 cars, regardless of that the manufacturer claims.
A Snap-On MT2500 with appropriate cables & cartridge will get you data from most powertrain modules, but little if anything else... might be able to assemble the pieces needed for ~$300.
I don't think you're going to find anything else in the $300 range, and even in the $1k+ range most of them will not work properly (if at all) on the 1992-1995 OBD-1 cars, regardless of that the manufacturer claims.
Don't mess with anything else get a C3 SDS setup albeit there is fairly limited functionality in a distributor m119....
For a w124 maybe a waste of time. A w140 yes worth it more modules in that car.
However a blink reader as described in this site will read all codes in the car for 30 bucks or less.
Summary- blink reader or SDS.
For a w124 maybe a waste of time. A w140 yes worth it more modules in that car.
However a blink reader as described in this site will read all codes in the car for 30 bucks or less.
Summary- blink reader or SDS.
The SDS (with HHT-Win) will get you full live data from all five power train modules in the distributor M119... LH/fuel, EZL/ignition, E-GAS/throttlebody, BM/power supply, and ABS/ASR. For USA models it also will pull live data from the Diagnostic Module which controls the CEL. This is advanced stuff needed for serious diagnostics. If you just want to view & clear codes, a $30 blink code reader works fine on the OBD-1 cars.
Note that certain modules can only have codes pulled via blink reader, for example the HVAC and SRS modules in the W124. So it's either blinker box, or blinker box + SDS. Even the SDS can't do everything on the old cars!
Note that certain modules can only have codes pulled via blink reader, for example the HVAC and SRS modules in the W124. So it's either blinker box, or blinker box + SDS. Even the SDS can't do everything on the old cars!
