Crossover Pipe Hitting Transmission Pan

[emerydc8]

During the process of removing and installing my crossover pipe, I loosened the two 13mm nuts where the front exhaust pipe connects to the transmission along the frame rail (diagram). I noticed the whole bracket mounted to the transmission seemed to creep forward because I had difficulty getting the two bolts back in afterwards.

Now, I noticed that the crossover pipe is rattling against the front of the transmission pan. It's actually the outer part of the crossover pipe, but it's making an occasional rattling noise when I come to a stop. I'm sure this is not good.

As you can see from the picture, I wedged a piece of fireproof hose in between the pipe and the pan.

Does anyone know how to get the transmission to move back just 1/4" so there is clearance between the pan and the crossover pipe?

 

[gerryvz]

Are your motor and transmission mounts fresh and providing correct clearance from that standpoint? You can measure the situation on your motor mounts -- GSXR has some photos on this on his web site and there may well be a thread or two on this site about it as well.

If they are known-good, then the only thing I can think of is that you don't have the crossover pipe aligned at the joints correctly, so its' fitment is a bit skewed. I had this problem slighly when I re-installed my xover pipe last week after my PS/solenoid/steering box fix-it marathon ... was getting MINIMAL clearance between crossover pipe and the metal cross-brace. Notice in my description I said I had to align the xover pipe a couple of times ..... once I removed and re-aligned the xover pipe, and re-threaded up the bolts, everything lined up correctly and all was good. Clearance is still tight (around an inch or slightly below) but it's as it should be.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[gsxr]

The tranny won't move relative to the pipe, it's bolted to the motor, which is bolted to the pipe. You'll need to adjust the crossover pipe by loosening the mounting bolts, adjusting the pipe, and re-tightening the bolts.

 

[emerydc8]

Thanks, guys. My mounts are okay. It makes sense that the transmission shouldn't move relative to the pipe, but when I loosened the nuts on that mount (92), the bracket shifted. The diagram doesn't show it, but the two holes are slotted. If nothing can move, I can't figure out why things shifted when I loosened the nuts.

I'll try to loosen the pipe bolts and see what happens.

 

[gerryvz]

Thanks, guys. My mounts are okay. It makes sense that the transmission shouldn't move relative to the pipe, but when I loosened the nuts on that mount (92), the bracket shifted. The diagram doesn't show it, but the two holes are slotted. If nothing can move, I can't figure out why things shifted when I loosened the nuts.

I'll try to loosen the pipe bolts and see what happens.

Hey @emerydc8, whatever happened with this? Were you able to re-adjust the crossover pipe (probably at the top connection to the downpipes) so that it cleared the transmission pan?

 

[gsxr]

The xover pipe needs to have all bolts slightly loose while you shove it around to find the optimum position, then tighten all the bolts. There are a couple different contact points to watch out for.

Jon's original issue was likely related to the bracket at the rear of the tranmission having been pulled forward originally, and it moved backwards when unbolted. That bracket is attached via rubber mounts and will move around. The cat pipe is rigidly attached to the engine/trans via exhaust manifold, as, mentioned previously.

 

[emerydc8]

Hey @emerydc8, whatever happened with this?

It was so long ago, but I think I readjusted all the bolts, as both you and Dave suggested, and was able to get it situated so it didn't rub. Thanks!

 

[gerryvz]

I'm doing the same thing today with my crossover pipe. Not quite where I wanted it (haven't connected the bottom bolts yet), so have to loosen and re-adjust the two top bolts. Sigh.

 

[gsxr]

Yeah, that pipe is a PITA. You cannot tighten any bolts prior to final alignment. Need to get the pipe approximately in place, then snug all 4 bolts, then loosen them each 1-2 turns. Wiggle the pipe as needed for clearance at multiple locations. Once you're confident it's "all good", then torque 'em down.