Drag Link Seperation

[nocfn]

Just curious to see if anyone cares to share how they replaced their drag link WITHOUT the MB tool. I do have a replacement as the movement is a bit sloppy IMO. So interested in a picture of the tool used to separate the unit from the attachment points.

 

[Glen]

I use one of these...
http://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quar...r-99849.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

 

[nocfn]

Enough room for it? That vertical engineered mb tool ranges from mb400-150 for clone if you can find one. (Insert emoji for sawszall)

 

[gsxr]

I use the Klann shown below. It is designed for the tie rod ends, not the drag link joints. With the engine installed, there is just barely enough room to fit this tool in place on the drag links, and even then it often needs heat applied to the idler arm or Pitman arm before they pop free. I'd like to buy the factory drag link tool but the price new is out of my budget, and I've not been able to locate a used one for sale.

 

[Glen]

Enough room for it? That vertical engineered mb tool ranges from mb400-150 for clone if you can find one. (Insert emoji for sawszall)

I've never had a problem, but you may need to turn the wheels one way or the other to maximize space.

 

[gsxr]

I've never had a problem, but you may need to turn the wheels one way or the other to maximize space.

YES - definitely need to do this with aftermarket tools. Clearance is tight on the top side of the drag link joints. With the engine removed there's plenty of space.

 

[nocfn]

I got your engine removal tool buddy!

 

[kwontumspeed]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ENEFUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17 on Amazon. Spacing is tight, but it works. Just make sure not to force threading the bolt. Once you feel a bit of resistance, smack the end and it should pop off with a bang.

Edit: Missed the first link Glen posted. I'd go for that unit bc it looks better built than this one.