Drive shaft center support bearing part # question

[Kyiv]

FCPeuro is telling me that drive shaft center support bearing part # is A0089814325 DOESN'T match my VIN and that actual correct part # is A 00 398 123 25 . BUT because A0089814325 supersedes A 00 398 123 25 , I should use A0089814325....

I called MB dealer and parts guy says A0089814325 is NOT correct, but there is no correct part because "I've got to replace the whole shaft".... Jesus Christ Lord

Can anyone please clarify exact correct part # for drive shaft center support bearing for a 1993 400E, vin # WDBEA34E9PB970081

Thank you

 

[gerryvz]

The old actual bearing for your car is part number: 003 981 23 25. The part does indeed supersede to 008 981 43 25, and is available from the normal US MB factory parts discounters for ~$25.

If you want the full repair kit (which I would strongly advise), you need part number: 124 410 01 10. The full package is available from MB (including all parts) for only ~$29.00 from the normal MB parts discounters. MUCH better deal as the bearing is included in this kit, along with other "consumable" wear parts that should be replaced.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[Kyiv]

Gerry, just to clarify, 124 410 01 10 is good for the 400E, which is what mine is correct?

 

[gerryvz]

That screen shot is from YOUR VIN number, in the MB "Pee-Pee" parts catalog.

Let me repost it, showing your VIN at the top.

It's the same exact screen that your "stealership" parts monkeys are looking at.

You can order the part here, and use "500EPROMO" at checkout for free shipping: https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-part...age-1244100110?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

 

[Kyiv]

thank you, indeed!

 

[LWB250]

A hearty second for buying the kit. In it you’ll get the bearing, bearing sleeves and a new rubber boot. The kit is often cheaper than the bearing outright. This is common for a lot of different MB models, and unless you have a savvy parts person, they won’t call out the kit if you ask specifically for the bearing.

Dan

 

[gsxr]

003-981-23-25 supercedes to 008-981-43-25 so technically, both numbers are correct. Note this is ONLY the bearing... the rubber dust boot may need replacement as well.

Dan is correct, the "kit" with bearing, boot, and protective caps (which are different, and MUST be installed in the proper orientation) is cheap, p/n 124-410-01-10, under $40 MSRP from the dealer.

If you're going this far - since it likely requires dropping the entire exhaust to access - you may want to shell out for a new rubber carrier that the bearing presses into. This is a dealer-only item, 124-410-08-81, spendy at $119 MSRP.

All the above info is good for both 124.034 and .036, all years 400E420 and E500E.

 

[LWB250]

Wow, can’t believe I missed that! Thanks, gsxr!

Yes, new bearing, new bearing carrier. You’ll destroy or damage the bearing carrier removing and installing the bearing. Don’t fret about the cost - you’ll be good for many, many more miles once this is done.

Dan

 

[Kyiv]

You guys are extra helpful. No shop, I believe, would have ever told me this. Will order barring carrier and bearing kit

Anything else you can thin of doing there, while the exhaust is out?

 

[IslandMon]

Anything else you can thin of doing there, while the exhaust is out?

Replace all rubber exhaust hangers and bushing on shifter rod

 

[gerryvz]

Anything else you can thin of doing there, while the exhaust is out?

1) As the IslandMan said, replace all of your rubber exhaust hangers. There are a couple of different types, so make sure to order the correct ones. You will need the following:

a) four of these for the front section (cats) and rear muffler (two per section): 124 492 00 82
b) one of these for the front section after the cats: 116 492 00 82
c) one of these for the center resonator: 129 492 02 82

2) Check very carefully the condition of your two rubber flex-discs. A small crack or two is not a major cause for concern, but if you see significant cracking, then you definitely need to replace it. There are two of them -- one at either end of the driveshaft. You can get a quality German-made OEM SGF part on the aftermarket, I believe they still come in a Febi box. Check with FCP and/or AutohausAZ for availability. DO NOT get a non-MB or non-SGF flex disc, such as Meyle or URO Parts, if you do replace one or both. The kits will come with new nuts and bolts in the box.

Part number for one flex-disc kit is 129 410 01 15

AutohauZ: https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1294100115 (you would need to confirm with them that it is an SGF in the box)
FCP Yurro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-drive-shaft-flex-joint-kit-1294100115-1294100116 (I believe this is an SGF product)

3) Check the condition of all exhaust shields atop the exhaust system to ensure they are not loose or rattling.

4) Check the condition of all muffler and exhaust system components.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[Kyiv]

Gerry, thank you very, VERY much. I'll order all of these. The new flex disks, by SFG - per your and Dave's recommendation - were put on during transmission re-installation. 2 SGF flex disks, with bolts and nuts, $180 or so on eBay, brand new. Came in febi boxes

There is some vibration at around 55 mph and up now, which the shop pins on center support bearing, and they'll cover all of the labor. I just pay for parts. I don't get why there aren't Mercedes indies- I've dealt with about 8 over the last 4.5 years - that are of the same grade as people here on the forum. Even after I establish good relationship with them. After all, we are hobbyists. They do it professionally for many years... I keep coming to conclusion that US, in many though, of course BY FAR not all respects, is a nation of firm C-graders. "A" or B+ on a very specific task, but take a slight step to the left or right - total collapse, disinterest, ignorance, obliviousness. And it's not like it's for free... Hence the "C" average overall. Might write a philosophical post on the subject matter in "off-topic" section some day. After 18 years in this country I can't quite put a finger on the pulse for this matter...

Thanks again Gerry and others. Extra-extra helpful

 

[LWB250]

3) Check the condition of all exhaust shields atop the exhaust system to ensure they are not loose or rattling.

4) Check the condition of all muffler and exhaust system components.

And to pile on to Gerry's post, while you've got the muffler hanging down, replace the bumper that prevents it from hitting the chassis. I believe the part number is 123 987 09 40. The old one will be hard as a rock and will come off easily. The new one can be easily installed by putting some lubricant on the "pin", inserting it into the opening on the chassis, and rotating it like you are trying to screw it in. If it doesn't go easily, get a long skinny tool with a flat end, like a punch, insert it into the hole in the bumper, and carefully press in while "screwing" the bumper into the opening. That will usually get it into the opening where it belongs.

This is one exhaust part that's often overlooked on all of our cars. I just replaced the ones on my 1965 220SEb - they were the originals - or what was left of them....

Dan

 

[Kyiv]

LWB250, thank you. Will order this too

 

[Kyiv]

Gerry or GSXR, could you be kind enough to check if LWB250:

"And to pile on to Gerry's post, while you've got the muffler hanging down, replace the bumper that prevents it from hitting the chassis. I believe the part number is 123 987 09 40 "

part number is correct for 1993 400E? thanks!

 

[gsxr]

Yes, it's the same for both 034 and 036.

 

[LWB250]

Yes, it's the same for both 034 and 036.

Validation.

 

[Kyiv]

Thank You all again for supplying with part numbers needed. On Monday car goes to the shop

 

[LWB250]

Oh, yeah! You even got the muffler stop. Nice. I love that level of attention to detail.

Dan

 

[Kyiv]

Oh, yeah! You even got the muffler stop. Nice. I love that level of attention to detail.

Dan

As you recommended

 

[Eno]

As per Xentry these are the part numbers.

 

[Kyiv]

UPDATE:

I've picked my car up today. Either one of the parts, all of them combined, or some combination has resolved my vibration issue. To remind, after transmission rebuild, a low frequency vibration emerged at around 48 mph, increasing with speed, accompanied by some relatively faint screeching sound. After the car received new, original Mercedes, drive-shaft center bearing, bearing carrier and all of the exhaust hangers and bumpers all is good. Or so it seems thus far after driving the car for 40 miles. The shop said there was nothing obviously wrong with old bearing and its carrier.

Curiously, the steering feel and structure strengths are a lot beefier in feel. This is a subjective feeling, of course. But I immediately noticed this strange sensation. It's similar to a very bad alignment issue being properly fixed. Is that what a new bearing and bearing carries should feel like, if so, why?

Everyone, thank you again for helping with a parts list for this project

 

[darek_u]

Apologies for hijacking the thread but I have a question about the little bumper stop that LWB250 mentioned - 1239870940. Does it actually attach to the car body or muffler itself? I have IMASAF muffler and it has a slightly different hanger so there is no way to attach it there. Am I right saying that it attaches to the rear part of the muffler itself, just by the hanger hooks?

 

[LWB250]

Apologies for hijacking the thread but I have a question about the little bumper stop that LWB250 mentioned - 1239870940. Does it actually attach to the car body or muffler itself? I have IMASAF muffler and it has a slightly different hanger so there is no way to attach it there. Am I right saying that it attaches to the rear part of the muffler itself, just by the hanger hooks?

The bumper stop goes into a hole in the body above the muffler towards the rear of the car. Think of it this way - it's there to keep the top of the muffler from contacting the body in the event the muffler deflects upwards.

I thought I had a picture of the one on my 1965 220SEb, but I don't. Here's a picture of the muffler installed - see where that yellow sticker is towards the rear of the muffler? That bumper would be mounted with the little "pin" pressed into a hole in the bottom of the car's body above the area on the muffler right around where that sticker is, relatively speaking.

I can probably get a picture of it tomorrow and post it here if you like. The old one will be on your car above the muffler somewhere, unless it's become petrified and fallen off. If so, there will be a hole about 2mm-3mm in diameter somewhere in this area where the bumper stop goes. Put some dish soap on the bumper stop pin and twist or "screw" it into the hole. If it's reluctant to go in, make sure the hole and area behind it are clear of any obstructions, then use a blunt object like a punch in the hole of the bumper stop to push the pin into place. Don't use anything pointy or you'll poke through the pin

Dan

 

[gsxr]

I think on the late 124 chassis, the rubber widget plugs into the muffler bracket, not the chassis. But I'd have to double check.

 

[LWB250]

I think on the late 124 chassis, the rubber widget plugs into the muffler bracket, not the chassis. But I'd have to double check.

Hmm. Could be. I'll have to go and check my 400E photos, I might have it there.

Dan

 

[northNH]

No need to check, you can take it to the bank...

 

[darek_u]

I think on the late 124 chassis, the rubber widget plugs into the muffler bracket, not the chassis. But I'd have to double check.

I think you are right Dave - I did some research and found a picture:



My IMASAF muffler doesn't have this little "shelf" on the back where the bumper is pressed in so I guess I'll have to live without it...