E420 LH module part number

[samm]

Hey guys in my 95 E420 the LH module that it came with was

021 545 70 32. Made in 1996 so its not the original.

Is this the right one? Car doesnt have Asr if that is relevant to this part.

I have a constant misfire. Car is almost undriveable. Replaced the entire exhaust ssytem because it was blocked.

I read the codes on all the main modules. Then erased them. Will post them up maybe today. Base module had about 7 error codes. Many to do with voltage nsalso the Ezl had an error that failed to.communicate or something like that...

Im thinking it will still be couple of weeks until this car is driveable

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[gsxr]

That p/n is correct, see post #6 here for details: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12065

A constant misfire could be a bunch of different things. Have you pinpointed which cylinder(s) are misfiring?

 

[samm]

That p/n is correct, see post #6 here for details: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12065

A constant misfire could be a bunch of different things. Have you pinpointed which cylinder(s) are misfiring?

Hi Dave,

I am always working so im hoping to do a bit more diagnosing on the weekend...it does not go past about 4k rpm either. Any idea what a faulty EZL module would do? I mean typically hiw do they fail?

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[samm]

Hi Dave,

I am always working so im hoping to do a bit more diagnosing on the weekend...it does not go past about 4k rpm either. Any idea what a faulty EZL module would do? I mean typically hiw do they fail?

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Dave by the way i just got hold of 021-545-70-32 LH module. But the engine seems to be running worse...

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[samm]

Dave by the way i just got hold of 021-545-70-32 LH module. But the engine seems to be running worse...

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I replaced the base module and the lh module and the check engine light went. Base module had about 7 error codes on it. I have no idea if the previous owner ever reset the codes or not...

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[gsxr]

Typical EZL failure is either one coil doesn't fire (engine runs on 4 cylinders), or neither coil fires (engine will not start or run). I've never heard of an intermittent EZL, when they fail, it's usually permanent. Even if you do have 4 cylinders from one distributor cap not firing, you still need to triple-check to confirm it's not an issue with the cap/rotor/insulator/wires/etc.

Most cars get driven for many years and tens of thousands of miles between code clearing, resulting in a bunch of old / phantom codes. Any time you check codes for diagnosing issues, you need to clear all existing codes (ignore them), drive the car, and see which codes recur quickly.

Swapping LH modules means the engine is now operating with different adaptation values, from the replacement module. It takes a while for the adaptation to adjust, and you can't view the actual percentage without a digital scanner. If the engine won't rev over 4krpm, it MIGHT be an issue with the NSS telling the computers the shifter is in P or N but I thought that limit was typically ~5k. Another possibility is plugged exhaust but you said that was already replaced, but if you have a backpressure gauge, it wouldn't hurt to double-check.

 

[samm]

Typical EZL failure is either one coil doesn't fire (engine runs on 4 cylinders), or neither coil fires (engine will not start or run). I've never heard of an intermittent EZL, when they fail, it's usually permanent. Even if you do have 4 cylinders from one distributor cap not firing, you still need to triple-check to confirm it's not an issue with the cap/rotor/insulator/wires/etc.

Most cars get driven for many years and tens of thousands of miles between code clearing, resulting in a bunch of old / phantom codes. Any time you check codes for diagnosing issues, you need to clear all existing codes (ignore them), drive the car, and see which codes recur quickly.

Swapping LH modules means the engine is now operating with different adaptation values, from the replacement module. It takes a while for the adaptation to adjust, and you can't view the actual percentage without a digital scanner. If the engine won't rev over 4krpm, it MIGHT be an issue with the NSS telling the computers the shifter is in P or N but I thought that limit was typically ~5k. Another possibility is plugged exhaust but you said that was already replaced, but if you have a backpressure gauge, it wouldn't hurt to double-check.

Well the distributor caps look new externally...but i opened it up and its corroded...

Thanks for the info Dave. I guess the LH module i just installed needs some time.
So from your previous post on the other thread rhe 70 lh module I just installed is not the increased HP one like in the 400e?



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[gsxr]

Well the distributor caps look new externally...but i opened it up and its corroded...

Thanks for the info Dave. I guess the LH module i just installed needs some time.
So from your previous post on the other thread rhe 70 lh module I just installed is not the increased HP one like in the 400e?

Yep, if the caps are bad, it would be a good idea to replace the caps, rotors, AND insulators all at the same time. Then you should not have to touch them for a very long time.

The 021- module does not have WOT enrichment. If you want the power gain at WOT, you need a 1992 module. Living in SoCal, you should have no need for the wider adaptation range of the 021- module.

 

[samm]

Yep, if the caps are bad, it would be a good idea to replace the caps, rotors, AND insulators all at the same time. Then you should not have to touch them for a very long time.

The 021- module does not have WOT enrichment. If you want the power gain at WOT, you need a 1992 module. Living in SoCal, you should have no need for the wider adaptation range of the 021- module.

Hey Dave,
Thanks for the great info as always.

Well the brand new caps and rotors that the previous owner had installed 5 years ago (and then parked it) are all corroded. There was all this green mould stuff on the Insulators as well.
Tried cleaning it. But ive ordered all new Bosch parts totalling 340. Lifetime replacement warranty from fcp euro. I always buy from Autohaus AZ but this warranty deal looks genuine! I dont want to hve to spend 340 again in a year or two...

So my car had these FR + Bosch spark plugs. I changed them and installed the regular F8DC4. Dont know what happened but now the car starts for a few seconds and then shuts down.

I can also smell gas inside the car after filling the tank to maximum. I wonder if i have to change that fuel evap thing andrhe charcoal cannister.. just did this in my other car [emoji58]

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[gsxr]

Well the brand new caps and rotors that the previous owner had installed 5 years ago (and then parked it) are all corroded. There was all this green mould stuff on the Insulators as well. Tried cleaning it. But ive ordered all new Bosch parts totalling 340. Lifetime replacement warranty from fcp euro. I always buy from Autohaus AZ but this warranty deal looks genuine! I dont want to hve to spend 340 again in a year or two...

That's quite a bit of green gunk - seems odd. The FCP warranty is legit, and could come in handy for items which you suspect could die again in a few years. I've been buying very little from AHAZ since they started carrying more junk brands and less quality brands.

So my car had these FR + Bosch spark plugs. I changed them and installed the regular F8DC4. Dont know what happened but now the car starts for a few seconds and then shuts down.

The car will be happier with F8DC4 in there. The running problem is odd... I'd check for any wires or hoses accidentally knocked loose?

I can also smell gas inside the car after filling the tank to maximum. I wonder if i have to change that fuel evap thing andrhe charcoal cannister.. just did this in my other car

UH-oh. That isn't good. You should never, ever smell gas inside the car. The couple times I've experienced this, it ended up being a hairline crack in the tank, and the tank had to be replaced. Hope you don't have to go through that hassle. There is a vent valve at the bottom of the tank next to the return line, these are usually dead or dying after 20+ years and should be replaced on principle, but it isn't likely to be the cause of your issue. The canister is up front inside the driver fender. I'd start by checking the tank cap gasket, you might just have a cap leak?

 

[samm]

UH-oh. That isn't good. You should never, ever smell gas inside the car. The couple times I've experienced this, it ended up being a hairline crack in the tank, and the tank had to be replaced. Hope you don't have to go through that hassle. There is a vent valve at the bottom of the tank next to the return line, these are usually dead or dying after 20+ years and should be replaced on principle, but it isn't likely to be the cause of your issue. The canister is up front inside the driver fender. I'd start by checking the tank cap gasket, you might just have a cap leak?

Wow you experienced more than one crack in the tank? Did u remove the rear seat and the carpet in the trunk..

it is a real challenge fixing a car that has not been used for 5 years! One thing after the other...

I think that maybe a vacuum hose came loose or something when i put the airbox back on...that may have caused the shutoff

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[samm]

So i just got this today. Im hoping its the correct higher hp module. From 92 400e

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[samm]

Guy sold me his LH and his EZL which he claims was rebuilt in the past...also took his Base module that has a sticker on it as if it was rebuilt as well...

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[samm]

Gsxr Dave,

I readone of your posts from 2013 in which you had confirmed that this is the WOT module.

Thanks for your 2013 answer [emoji4]

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[samm]

Hi guys
So now i have a continuous high idle from initial cold start. Car warms up but idle stays high for several minutes then the car stalls.

I immediately restart but then after a very short time the car stalls as if spark or fuel was just switched off. Please see attached video!

Earlier today I installed a new Engine Temp sensor 4 prong one. Also installed the blue 2 pin one. Beru.

I highly doubt the dosributor caps would cause a high idle and a stall situation like this.

My ETA was replaced with a 2002 build unit. Wiring harness brand new.

My fuse box is quite corroded. I have replaced all fuses. But the terminals are all corroded. I don't think that is the cause though.

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[samm]

Video is not attaching for some reason..

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[samm]

Ok so Im suspecting the E Gas module got burnt out by the previous ETA that had all wiring insulation crumbled...will try anothr one

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[gsxr]

Since your .034 is non-ASR, make sure you are using T/LLR modules... not E-GAS. The two are not interchangeable.

 

[samm]

Since your .034 is non-ASR, make sure you are using T/LLR modules... not E-GAS. The two are not interchangeable.

Hi Dave

Sorry what is TLLR?

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[samm]

Man my modules are in awful exterior condition. Ive replaced all if them so far except this TLLR one that you mention.
Thei car was parked for 5 years and the drainage areas were blocked up. So water corroded the computer box area including the 38 pin diagnostic. Also fuse box holder as well. Will be replacing them

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[gsxr]

You can see in the photo above... T/LLR is sandwiched between LH and ABS modules. T/LLR is for the non-ASR ETA (idle speed and cruise control).

 

[samm]

Ok so I opened my T LLR throttle / cruise control module and found one interior solder joint damaged and one exterior pin (number 29 or 30) with corrosion on it.

So my first task is to repair that solder joint and clean off the corrosion on this and in the car connector (if any).

Next will be to replace the 38 pin diagnostic port as it is quite heavily corroded.

Because this car only has 45k miles on it I am very motivated to get it working properly as a daily driver. Done so much work already. May as well continue...

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