Ebay "Pulse Battery Chargers" CTEK replacement?

[LWB250]

@LWB250 — per my earlier statement about Texas' climate and battery life, have you found that the Florida climate is any harsher on batteries than other parts of the country you've lived in, in terms of length of typical battery service?

Not really. Having lived in the Great White North as well, I think the climate has a minimal effect on modern batteries as long as they're properly maintained. Batteries don't seem to last any longer or shorter than they did north of the Mason-Dixon Line, so I think environment doesn't play into it that much. That being said, if there was a place where their life seemed to be slightly shorter, it would be up north, but that's because low temperatures combined with battery condition probably makes people more prone to replace them. If you're not trying to cold start your W123 diesel in -20F on a four year old battery you're probably OK.

Of course, if the battery is in some sort of different service than a daily driver automobile that might not be the case, but otherwise, I think climate is a minor player in battery life. That's just my $0.02.

Dan

 

[JC220]

All of this desulfating crap, special battery chargers, etc. is great and all. But maybe you'll get an extra year or two out of the battery. So you go from a 7 year battery to 9 years.

For all of the money you spent on special de-sulfating and does-everything maintainers, is squeezing an extra year or two really worth it?

I think the Batteryminder unit has other advantages than just the "Desulfating crap". Instead of having 6x separate chargers all taking up power outlets I can condense up to 6x batteries to the one battery tender for long winter stints.

So for the price and for it being capable of doing the task of up to 6x trickle chargers I'd say its a sound purchase "Desulfating crap" aside.

Having done my own research on this subject and the unit Dave recommended I am keen to try it.

I've gotten 12-15 years of life from multiple batteries, both flooded/wet and AGM. These all had a PowerPulse desulfation box attached. If it was only squeezing another 10-20% of lifespan out, yeah, why bother. But it's probably closer to 100% (double), assuming you have a quality battery to begin with, and it's maintained properly. With Group 49's in the $150-$200 range now, I'm all for twice the life! Especially with over a dozen batteries that I need to keep healthy. I'd have to do some load tests again, but I think my record lifespans are 15 and 17 years, respectively, for two OE MB dealer AGM's still in service. (!)

FWIW, almost all the battery failures I've had in the past ~2 decades have been Interstates, usually shorted cell with no warning. Interstate is the one brand I refuse to buy now.

That's good insight on long term usage and correct care of your fleet batteries!

I will say that at one time the factory batteries appeared to be quite robust. I replaced a Mercedes AGM battery with a 2003 date code in my S210 a year ago. I was stunned, to say the least. That being said, it was as dead as a doornail, nothing I did to it would bring it back.

As a rule I figure most batteries will last 4-5 years. If I get a four year old battery that starts to act up, I replace it. The cost is minor compared to the inconvenience of having a no-start condition somewhere away from home.

Oddly enough I have found that OEM MB Varta batteries do not last as long as other brands such as Bosch & Yuasa etc. I generally buy aftermarket but the largest CCA and AH I can find and used to go calcium, now leaning towards AGM.

Calcium batteries last me about 8 years on average.
AGM I haven't had long enough to tell yet.

You see? It’s like oil.

“I got 15,000 miles out of my RedLine synthetic oil!!” (Double the typical life of motor oil)

“I got 17 years out of my desulfated MB AGM battery!” (Double the typical battery lifespan)



OK, I’ll let it go. It’s just something I choose not to pursue to the ends of the earth. It is possible to over-think these things.

Fair enough Gerry - to be fair some of us operate on a larger scale so it get's costly FAST if we don't maintain things as best we can Not being rude just sayin.

Operating a fleet requires being savy and a small investment in equipment here could prolong the battery life of 12x cars at once. Your returns would be less yes and if it's no interest to you fair enough.

No need to get butt-hurt. Nobody is squelching anyone's right to express their opinion and be a battery or oil geek. After all, hearty dialogue and (always respectfully) expressing ideas and opinions is what this forum is all about.

To me, it's more about amusement than anything else. I'm sure many forum members are learning a lot through this thread, and making up their own opinions [when the time comes] as to whether to buy new batteries, or to find the means to keep their existing batteries on indefinite life support ... kind of like what they do with Ozzy Ozbourne and Mick Jagger.

Maybe we have a new title for the @gsxr ... "Master Desulfator" — ?

Well I'll share outcomes good, bad or indifferent in a month or two. It's not butthurt - I can take criticism as well as the next guy but when members weigh in with the old:

"If I get a four year old battery that starts to act up, I replace it. The cost is minor compared to the inconvenience of having a no-start condition somewhere away from home" - ​

​

"My theory is when a battery quits. BUY a NEW ONE! (The best one I can find and be done with it)" ​

It doesn't exactly inspire spending any time taking a horse to water. Respectfully, do you guys think I am going to get stranded or run a dead battery in any of my cars?? Come off it.

This is a thread intended to share thoughts / experiences and learn more about how to maintain your batteries in rude health long term and prevent issues cropping up

 

[gsxr]

I will say that at one time the factory batteries appeared to be quite robust. I replaced a Mercedes AGM battery with a 2003 date code in my S210 a year ago. I was stunned, to say the least. That being said, it was as dead as a doornail, nothing I did to it would bring it back.

Interesting. My two record-holders are dated 2003 and 2005, both are MB # 005-541-10-01, black-case AGM's. Not sure who made them though. I don't think MB is still using the same mfr today.

As a rule I figure most batteries will last 4-5 years. If I get a four year old battery that starts to act up, I replace it.

I put my efforts into preventive maintenance... avoid deep discharge, continual desulfation if possible, keep terminals clean, connect maintainer if vehicle will be parked for weeks or longer. When a battery starts to act up, I load test it (500A carbon-pile style, link) and monitor closely. Any sign of flaky function, it's outta here. Like Joe, I have no interest in getting stuck somewhere with a dead battery, if I can avoid it.

 

[gerryvz]

Like Joe, I have no interest in getting stuck somewhere with a dead battery, if I can avoid it.

You guys could avoid this by using cars with early-722.3 transmissions with the auxiliary pump. That way you could push-start them in a pinch.

 

[LWB250]

I put my efforts into preventive maintenance... avoid deep discharge, continual desulfation if possible, keep terminals clean, connect maintainer if vehicle will be parked for weeks or longer. When a battery starts to act up, I load test it (500A carbon-pile style, link) and monitor closely. Any sign of flaky function, it's outta here. Like Joe, I have no interest in getting stuck somewhere with a dead battery, if I can avoid it.

I do these things as well. My point being that if a battery starts to appear to be funky, I'll bear the expense of replacing it rather than risk myself, or more importantly, a family member, being stranded from a no start condition.

I don't have a fleet to deal with or a large number of batteries, so there's minimal benefit for me to invest in a bunch of equipment to maintain batteries. I will say that I find things in this thread of interest, however, and I don't dispute any of them. My situation is different from others and I'm most comfortable dealing with it in the way I currently do.

Dan

 

[ace10]

New battery for one of my Toyotas yesterday.
It came from the PO with an 84 month NAPA battery. Was crap from day one. No clue when it was put into service.
Would charge up and hold reasonably OK, but never had enough juice to get the starter going reliably. I actually bought the parts to rebuild it because I thought it was stuck. And it's a common problem.
Bought a 36 month Duracell with decent specs, made by East Penn. This truck is on the market, so didn't invest in an AGM.

Also had a weird situation with the backup battery on the house alarm. The panel alerted to voltage issue. But the battery tested OK with the multimeter. The panel just didn't like what it was seeing, so I replaced it with an on-hand spare.

 

[JC220]

I do these things as well. My point being that if a battery starts to appear to be funky, I'll bear the expense of replacing it rather than risk myself, or more importantly, a family member, being stranded from a no start condition.

I sure hope you carry a micro booster pack in the trunk for family members

I have one and it is for OTHER people to use primarily. Eg if they ask me for a jump I can help and not risk my own car ECUs etc.

Is THIS the future of automotive batteries?

H7/Group-94R Lithium Car Battery

Antigravity H7/ Group-94R Hi-Power lightweight Lithium Automotive Battery with RE-START Technology. Replace lead/acid battery in Hi-Performance Cars.

antigravitybatteries.com

 

[TerryA]

I sure hope you carry a micro booster pack in the trunk for family members

I have one and it is for OTHER people to use primarily. Eg if they ask me for a jump I can help and not risk my own car ECUs etc.

Is THIS the future of automotive batteries?

H7/Group-94R Lithium Car Battery

Antigravity H7/ Group-94R Hi-Power lightweight Lithium Automotive Battery with RE-START Technology. Replace lead/acid battery in Hi-Performance Cars.

antigravitybatteries.com

Yikes!! $829 to $949 for a car battery?

That's probably the battery that Elon Musk installed in his Tesla that he launched into space.
With the "antigravity" feature his car can last longer before it crashes back to earth.

Also he probably the only one who can afford these batteries. I don't think I will be buying one.

lol

 

[ace10]

...

Is THIS the future of automotive batteries?

H7/Group-94R Lithium Car Battery

Antigravity H7/ Group-94R Hi-Power lightweight Lithium Automotive Battery with RE-START Technology. Replace lead/acid battery in Hi-Performance Cars.

antigravitybatteries.com

Braille has been hawking ultralight batteries for years and years. They were (and might still be) big in the Lotus world.

Home - Braille Battery

[...]Read More

braillebattery.com

Easy to drop a couple $K one of those.


I've always used a lightweight battery from Odyssey in mine. Cost $150 and last about 2 years. 15lbs.

 

[gsxr]

Problem with these lightweight lithium-ion batteries is, we need MORE weight in the rear of the 034/036, not LESS. The cars are already nose-heavy. How about anti-gravity engine mounts and intake/exhaust manifolds?

 

[LWB250]

I sure hope you carry a micro booster pack in the trunk for family members

I have one and it is for OTHER people to use primarily. Eg if they ask me for a jump I can help and not risk my own car ECUs etc.

Nope. Waffled on whether or not to buy one, never needed it. Especially since I live in the near North now.

Dan living on the edge, apparently

 

[JC220]

Nope. Waffled on whether or not to buy one, never needed it. Especially since I live in the near North now.

Dan living on the edge, apparently

The one I have is pocket sized and will start a V8! I use it all the time at parts yards too for moving window motors and seats etc. And it can power up a whole car in order to test a certain system before pulling parts.

Also has USB power outlets to charge your phone etc. I wouldn't be without it now!

It was described here-

Anyone using mini glove box sized power booster packs? | Tools and Shop Equipment

As per title I do any board members have recommendations for modern/ small compact power booster packs for emergency jump starting your car? I have just received one today and intend to test it out before providing details. Just wondering what your guys are using

www.500eboard.co

 

[JC220]

The more I use it the more I like the fleabay pulse repair charger

It is definitely way more effective than my Ctek at bringing capacity and health back into a battery. The pulse cycle and voltage cycling really are good.



Left this one on repair mode overnight and this morning:



I look forward to long term testing using desulfators on a couple of different batteries and see what Improvement they can add over a month or so. I'll record results before and let you guys know what the change is in a month. The couple of batteries I will be putting on the Batteryminder are not in regular use anyway so ideal time to give them a go.

 

[JC220]

1st 1 month master desulfator test is chooching (Cheapie £8.50 amazon desulfator just for giggles)



I will provide the hopefully improved internal resistance/ battery health in a month from now. Or maybe fork all will happen with this unit

Then the USA one going on another 13 year old Mercedes battery

 

[JC220]

13 year old MB Varta 019 from my S280. Hasn't been charged in about 4 months but still somehow would barely crank the S280.

First reading



Top up cells - all low on fluid. Then full repair cycle on the Ebay charger



Pretty darn good for a 2007 battery. These ebay chargers are definitely good! They do a controlled nearly 16 volt charge to effectively boil the acid in a controlled manner - it works! Ctek cant touch this

 

[alabbasi]

Anyone have an idea about what's going on here?


I have a couple of cars that seem to really dislike my trickle chargers and it's not related to a particular brand but more obvious with the viking trickle charger from Harbor Freight as it has an LCD display that indicates the voltage.

The problem has occurred with a battery tender, schumacher and viking charger but I was really only able to spot the issue with the viking charger as it has an LCD display of the voltage.

The symptoms are that the charger would charge the battery up until fully charged and go into mtc mode (green light). It would not detect that the battery voltage has dropped to a point where the charger needs to turn itself back on and charge the battery, eventually killing the battery.

This happens on a couple of my cars, including my SL55, and even after i replaced a toasted AGM battery that was 2 years old.

It's one of the reasons why I like the Viking chargers, because they have a volt meter in place that allows me to see the voltage. I would have never known otherwise as the other chargers just indicate that the battery is fully charged.

 

[gsxr]

Flopster, what specific years/models/chassis do you have this problem with?

I had a different issue, where a maintainer would constantly be putting out full charge, and never get into the maintain/float mode. Turns out if you leave a KeylessGo key inside a car, it keeps something just awake enough to be a constant power draw. Removed the key, problem solved. Obviously not what you have going on, but it shows how weird stuff can happen with newer chassis...

 

[alabbasi]

Dave, the Mercedes Benz in question is a 2005 SL55 AMG (R230). I also have the same issue on 3 Crewe made cars.

The issue you describe is exactly what's happening to my 2005 CL65 where the charger is always charging. I also notice the lights flash on the mirror every so often. They keyless go key is all the way across the building, at least 50ft away. Definitely worth checking out.

 

[JC220]

Anyone have an idea about what's going on here?


I have a couple of cars that seem to really dislike my trickle chargers and it's not related to a particular brand but more obvious with the viking trickle charger from Harbor Freight as it has an LCD display that indicates the voltage.

The problem has occurred with a battery tender, schumacher and viking charger but I was really only able to spot the issue with the viking charger as it has an LCD display of the voltage.

The symptoms are that the charger would charge the battery up until fully charged and go into mtc mode (green light). It would not detect that the battery voltage has dropped to a point where the charger needs to turn itself back on and charge the battery, eventually killing the battery.

This happens on a couple of my cars, including my SL55, and even after i replaced a toasted AGM battery that was 2 years old.

It's one of the reasons why I like the Viking chargers, because they have a volt meter in place that allows me to see the voltage. I would have never known otherwise as the other chargers just indicate that the battery is fully charged.

Dave, the Mercedes Benz in question is a 2005 SL55 AMG (R230). I also have the same issue on 3 Crewe made cars.

The issue you describe is exactly what's happening to my 2005 CL65 where the charger is always charging. I also notice the lights flash on the mirror every so often. They keyless go key is all the way across the building, at least 50ft away. Definitely worth checking out.

I agree with Dave that it also sounds like the affected cars have CAN networks staying active when they should not be and causing a parasitic drain on the battery.

How long does it take to kill the battery? Days, weeks or months?

It is strange however that your battery tenders dont kick in they really should. What amperage are they do you know off hand?

You can get bluetooth car battery monitors. I am testing one at the moment. (#battery geek- keeping @gerryvz entertained so you dont have to) It records the data and when near the car with your phone again you can use the bluetooth to download the saved data of voltages over time. Lots of other useful info from it too but that was my main interest to help see when a car shuts its CAN network off.

 

[alabbasi]

It depends on the car. On the Crewe cars, about a week. The SL55, No idea. Probably more than two weeks. The battery charger is a 4 amp unit.

 

[JC220]

1st 1 month master desulfator test is chooching (Cheapie £8.50 amazon desulfator just for giggles)

View attachment 107200

I will provide the hopefully improved internal resistance/ battery health in a month from now. Or maybe fork all will happen with this unit

Then the USA one going on another 13 year old Mercedes battery

Just a couple days later and only connected to Amazon cheapie desulfator. (No charger)



That's a good sign! Internal resistance is falling and health % is rising after 48 hours. Be interesting to check again in another few days and monitor progress. The 1st 3x weeks is supposed to see the most improvement.

 

[JC220]

OK so I made a mistake on the S600s Varta date coding. It's at least 10 years old Its also too big size for the S600's tray whereby the clamp doesn't fit. The S600 has a correct fitting AGM 019 size in it now and is happy spinning over like only a V12 can.

BUT in the interest of science I received and connected up the Batteryminder today and I'll give it a couple of weeks to see if anything changes on that particular Varta but really: A- it isn't the correct size & B: Its likely too old to recover.

The battery minder unit appears nice quality and is really easy to use I like it! It will soon have 3 or 4 batteries on it for a long term test but for now I'll let it concentrate on this knackered Varta.

For the record this Varta has already been on the repair cycle of the Ebay charger and Ctek recond cycle twice and continues to fail. Its likely chooched but what to heck let this thing sit for a bit and see if anything changes at all.

 

[JC220]

Just a few days later and something appears to be happening to the Varta. Was 7% before now 18%



Not entirely sure if this battery is actually salvageable but I'll monitor progress anyway. I have 2x new batteries ordered today for my pedestrian w124 size of 096. A Bosch AGM and Exide premium. AGM is for the 3.6 AMG likely overkill but cant hurt any.

 

[JC220]

So the big Varta relapsed again - it's a goner! Something very much wrong with it and it's a waste if time at this point.

One of my new 096 batteries arrived today




100% health makes sense since it's a brand new battery. Charge was a little low so its on my CTEK now before I install into my 300E-24. Interesting that the CCA detected is higher than the stated battery rating!

 

[TerryA]

I agree w/ Gerry. You Guys are becoming “Battery Geeks”. I’m glad that I only have one battery to worry about er; for the 500E. I do have two other cars. My theory is when a battery quits. BUY a NEW ONE! (The best one I can find and be done with it).

lol

MY 500E BATTERY WAS DEAD YESTERDAY. It's been hooked up to a trickle charger. The Interstate acid battery is about 6 years old. I would have to check my receipt to tell for sure.

BUT, BUT, BUT after saying "BUY a NEW ONE! (The best one I can find and be done with it)."

I'M LOOKING FOR A NEW BATTERY, I guess it should be an AGM so far all I have found is;

Pep Boys >>>>>>>>Champion AGM $150.00 on sale 4 yr free replacement 900 cold crank amps
Autozone >>>>>>> Duralast AGM $200.00 3 yr free replacement 900 cold crank amps
NAPA >>>>>>>>>> Legend AGM $205.00 3 yr free replacement 850 cold crank amps
Batteriesplus >>>>> Duracell AGM $215.00 4 yr free replacement 850 cold crank amps

Looks to me like the best bet is the Champion

WHAT SAY THE PEANUT GALLERY?

 

[ace10]

No opinion on which one to select, but I can tell you that Johnson Controls manufactures the Champion and Duralast. And East Penn makes the Legend and Duracell.

My local Batteriesplus is an excellent outlet. Very helpful. Good communication, so I buy my batteries there. The Duracell AGM should be 10% off if you purchase online and pickup at the store. And then there's a $10 rebate.

 

[gsxr]

Champion does look like the winner, on sale 25% off! And it has "... up to two times the life of a standard flooed battery". Yeah, you don't want one of those flooed batteries, lol!

Champion AGM Battery, Group Size H8 | 2071679 | Pep Boys

www.pepboys.com

You can also check out WalMart, they have an H8 (Group 49) with 4 or 5 year warranty, made in Germany. $170 at most stores, sometimes $150, may need to check several stores in your area - their website is pretty bad, AFAICT you need to look up each store separately:

EverStart Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8 (12 Volt/900 CCA) - Walmart.com

Free 2-day shipping. Buy EverStart Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8 (12 Volt/900 CCA) at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

 

[gerryvz]

What about Bosch? I know that Pep Boys has carried Bosch, at least around here. I have bought a couple of them for a GREAT price.

 

[gsxr]

Appears the Bosch is $10 more right now, and only has a 3-yr warranty:

EDIT - nevermind, that one isn't AGM.

 

[Glen]

I think Pep Boys has switched from Bosch to Champion for AGM batteries, at least around here in SoCal.
Most of my cars now have Bosch AGM and they've been great. Although the longest lasting battery I've had was an Optima red top...lasted 15 years.

 

[gerryvz]

an Optima red top...lasted 15 years.

Sounds like you have the @gsxr beat by a few years !!

Did you have $1,500 worth of desulfation and maintainer equipment to keep it on life support for that long?

Because "trickle chargers" and "Battery Tenders" are pedestrian ("everyman") stuff -- sort of like hitting a nail with a sledge-hammer.....or an aluminum engine part with a non-Hazet claw hammer

 

[gsxr]

Close, but I have a 2003 and 2005 OE MB AGM still in service. That's 15+ and 17+ and...

 

[gerryvz]

As a non-cellphone, non-Faceplant and Windows NT user, I am a bit incredulous that you actually own and use AGM batteries, @gsxr. I'd think you'd be using the old wet-cell batteries that require bottles of battery acid and periodic fill-ups.

 

[JC220]

Sounds like you have the @gsxr sort of like hitting a nail with a sledge-hammer.....or an aluminum engine part with a non-Hazet claw hammer

Dont forget the pedestrian Saran wrap in place of a MB heat conducting film behind a EZL

 

[gerryvz]

Dont forget the pedestrian Saran wrap in place of a MB heat conducting film behind a EZL

That is just plain redneck engineering at its finest.

 

[Glen]

Sounds like you have the @gsxr beat by a few years !!

Did you have $1,500 worth of desulfation and maintainer equipment to keep it on life support for that long?

Because "trickle chargers" and "Battery Tenders" are pedestrian ("everyman") stuff -- sort of like hitting a nail with a sledge-hammer.....or an aluminum engine part with a non-Hazet claw hammer

LOL. I do and have used "battery tenders" for a long time but that Optima never needed one. It lived in our family S124 which saw daily use of a minimum 30 minute one way commute plus kids activities on weekends for all those years so it never needed a maintainer. It only died when I retired the wagon and the car ended up sitting for several months draining the battery. After that it would charge up at first but continued sitting finally killed it. I suspect it would have been fine if was in use the whole time or if I had put it on a tender.

 

[TerryA]

I think the Champion is my choice. It appears to me the best current deal w/ 4 yr free replacement, 900 CCA and a $50 discount off of the $199.00 price.

I just want to be sure it fits correctly 7” high x 6.5” wide x 13.94” long. I’ll measure the interstate to verify. Also I thought the AGM batteries were not vented. I believe I read it’s vented?

lol

 

[gsxr]

I think the Champion is my choice. It appears to me the best current deal w/ 4 yr free replacement, 900 CCA and a $50 discount off of the $199.00 price.

I just want to be sure it fits correctly 7” high x 6.5” wide x 13.94” long. I’ll measure the interstate to verify. Also I thought the AGM batteries were not vented. I believe I read it’s vented?

Terry, forget dimensions. All you care about is that it's H8 / Group 49, which dictates size limits.

If the battery comes with a vent tube, you can vent it externally if desired. JC220 recommends this and detailed it in a recent post. Sealed AGM batteries don't release gasses nearly as much as wet/flooded batteries so this is somewhat optional.

 

[TerryA]

Terry, forget dimensions. All you care about is that it's H8 / Group 49, which dictates size limits.

If the battery comes with a vent tube, you can vent it externally if desired. JC220 recommends this and detailed it in a recent post. Sealed AGM batteries don't release gasses nearly as much as wet/flooded batteries so this is somewhat optional.

Thanks Dave,

I wasn't sure about the size. I just want to make sure that it fills the hole properly.

As far as venting if it vents it needs to be vented out of the battery compartment or it will corrode the metal trau and whatever else it gets to. When I removed the battery that came with the car it was not vented properly and the battery tray had a fair amount of corrosion on it. So I had to clean it up and re-paint it.

The current Interstate battery is vented and so when I installed it I hooked up 1/8" vinyl tubing to the battery vent and directed it out thru the drain hole under the battery tray to under the car. If if didn't work I will know shortly. I don't expect any more damage to the battery tray.

 

[JC220]

Thanks Dave,

I wasn't sure about the size. I just want to make sure that it fills the hole properly.

As far as venting if it vents it needs to be vented out of the battery compartment or it will corrode the metal trau and whatever else it gets to. When I removed the battery that came with the car it was not vented properly and the battery tray had a fair amount of corrosion on it. So I had to clean it up and re-paint it.

The current Interstate battery is vented and so when I installed it I hooked up 1/8" vinyl tubing to the battery vent and directed it out thru the drain hole under the battery tray to under the car. If if didn't work I will know shortly. I don't expect any more damage to the battery tray.

See the post below Terry! Yes it needs venting. The battery will come with the same litre vent slots each end for the avoidance of doubt!

FYI - HOW-TO: Maintain your car battery & Terminals | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

This is a very overlooked service item IMO. This year alone I have helped people with 2no different cars that had sudden no start condition. In both cases the battery terminals had slight corrosion on them which made the car go dead momentarily. This is TOTALLY avoidable. Your car needs a nice...

www.500eboard.co

 

[TerryA]

Thanks Dave,

I wasn't sure about the size. I just want to make sure that it fills the hole properly.

As far as venting if it vents it needs to be vented out of the battery compartment or it will corrode the metal trau and whatever else it gets to. When I removed the battery that came with the car it was not vented properly and the battery tray had a fair amount of corrosion on it. So I had to clean it up and re-paint it.

The current Interstate battery is vented and so when I installed it I hooked up 1/8" vinyl tubing to the battery vent and directed it out thru the drain hole under the battery tray to under the car. If if didn't work I will know shortly. I don't expect any more damage to the battery tray.

Well, so much for my venting of the Interstate Battery. When I pulled it out the tray had a lot of corrosion AGAIN!! This is after 7 years installed.
It's not terrible but more than I expected. Most of it appears to be on the tray. I'll take more pics when I remove the old tray. FYI, The vent tube did stay in place until I removed it but it must be weeping thru the case or something.

All I can say is TANK GOD for CaptRuff I acquired an almost new battery tray from him awhile back.

I will be trading out the old tray and re-finishing it. Hopefully with the new AGM battery this will not occur again.

@ JC220 FYI, The new AGM does require venting. There is a 1/4" hole at the end of the battery. Just large enough to stuff in an 1/8" vinyl tubing in it. It will be vented properly.

Lots of work after the battery. The box pic is about $1,000.00 worth of parts to yet be installed. I want all of this stuff installed by September when I have to get is smogged and register my car again.

lol

 

[TerryA]

Well, so much for my venting of the Interstate Battery. When I pulled it out the tray had a lot of corrosion AGAIN!! This is after 7 years installed.
It's not terrible but more than I expected. Most of it appears to be on the tray. I'll take more pics when I remove the old tray. FYI, The vent tube did stay in place until I removed it but it must be weeping thru the case or something.

All I can say is TANK GOD for CaptRuff I acquired an almost new battery tray from him awhile back.

I will be trading out the old tray and re-finishing it. Hopefully with the new AGM battery this will not occur again.

@ JC220 FYI, The new AGM does require venting. There is a 1/4" hole at the end of the battery. Just large enough to stuff in an 1/8" vinyl tubing in it. It will be vented properly.

Lots of work after the battery. The box pic is about $1,000.00 worth of parts to yet be installed. I want all of this stuff installed by September when I have to get is smogged and register my car again.

lol

Something I failed to mention. My Interstate battery was still good. It was just rundown. Somehow the trickle charger became unplugged on the other end of a 50' extension cord. The extension has been plugged in that same buried location for about 25 years. I use it when I'm in the driveway at night working on my car or cars.

Anyway, after seeing the corrosion on the tray and the battery install date of 4/13 (7+ years old) I decided to get it out of the car before I would be replacing the NLA sheet metal under the tray.

 

[LWB250]

When I've refinished battery trays I have them media blasted, primed, painted, then sprayed with Plasti-Dip. Probably overkill, but the Plastic-Dip seems to help protect the paint from physical damage and any acid that might make it's way down there.

I had a W126 battery tray that I saw after six years of service that appeared to be nearly 100% intact.

Dan

 

[TerryA]

When I've refinished battery trays I have them media blasted, primed, painted, then sprayed with Plasti-Dip. Probably overkill, but the Plastic-Dip seems to help protect the paint from physical damage and any acid that might make it's way down there.

I had a W126 battery tray that I saw after six years of service that appeared to be nearly 100% intact.

Dan

I believe that the replacement one I have has whatever Mercedes applies for protection. It's definitely more than just paint. I'll take a good look at it before I install it. Once I take out the old tray I will see what's left to repair.

Also I don't think with the new AGM battery that corrosion will be as much of a problem.

 

[nocfn]

I think Pep Boys has switched from Bosch to Champion for AGM batteries, at least around here in SoCal.
Most of my cars now have Bosch AGM and they've been great. Although the longest lasting battery I've had was an Optima red top...lasted 15 years.

The PepBoys in my TX town offers Bosch AGM, and the replacement I got under warranty from the same place was also a Bosch AGM last fall.

 

[nocfn]

Terry instead of routing the hose out the drain hole, why not have it route out the fender vent? This way there is less chance of hidden issue under/edge of the tray. There should be a 90 degree vent pipe that comes with the battery to use on either side with your vinyl hose.

 

[JC220]

Try ebay etc thats where I get my battery vent tubes with proper elbow. (Over here at least - a new battery never comes with the vent tube or elbow)

 

[gerryvz]

In the US, proper battery vent tubes can be sourced at any McFLAPS store:

https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/battery-vent-tube

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-254-Battery-Vent-Tube/dp/B004AIJ34M

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6003573

 

[TerryA]

Terry instead of routing the hose out the drain hole, why not have it route out the fender vent? This way there is less chance of hidden issue under/edge of the tray. There should be a 90 degree vent pipe that comes with the battery to use on either side with your vinyl hose.

Louis,

No vent pipes came with the battery. Thanks for the hint. I will check out the fender vent route.
BTW, The AGM battery is only supposed to emit hydrogen gas because of the gel plates. No harmful acid fumes like the lead acid batteries.

Also, The vent tubing I used on the Interstate battery was not kinked in any way. I think the corrosion was from just the presence of the acid battery and possible the case leaking or weeping a little. Other than the tray I don't think there is any real damage to the battery compartment.

Gerry, Thanks, I will check out that Dorman Vent tubing.

My main concern is that whatever I use is vented completely out of the battery compartment to the outside.

lol

 

[gsxr]

Something I failed to mention. My Interstate battery was still good. It was just rundown. Somehow the trickle charger became unplugged on the other end of a 50' extension cord. The extension has been plugged in that same buried location for about 25 years. I use it when I'm in the driveway at night working on my car or cars.

This happened to me, ONCE. After that, I set a recurring reminder on my Outlook calendar to check all my maintainers once per month, to verify they are connected & charging, and the battery is topped off.