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Explain the ET system to me and what I need to be looking for my E-420.
- Thread starter Ascension
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Re: Explane the ET system to me and what i need to be looking for for my E-420.
ET is the offset of the mounting surface from the centerline of the wheel. So, for example, if you have an 8" wide wheel with zero offset (ET 0), the mounting surface would be exactly in the center of both the inside and outside rim planes. As ET numbers get larger the mounting surface moves towards the outside rim plane. As ET numbers get smaller, the mounting surface moves closer to the centerline. Negative ET numbers mean the mounting surface is closer to the inside rim plane.
See this link: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelOffsets.do
ET is the offset of the mounting surface from the centerline of the wheel. So, for example, if you have an 8" wide wheel with zero offset (ET 0), the mounting surface would be exactly in the center of both the inside and outside rim planes. As ET numbers get larger the mounting surface moves towards the outside rim plane. As ET numbers get smaller, the mounting surface moves closer to the centerline. Negative ET numbers mean the mounting surface is closer to the inside rim plane.
See this link: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelOffsets.do
Re: Explane the ET system to me and what i need to be looking for for my E-420.
As mentioned in the other thread, unless you drive like a granny, you will need mods for any 8.0" wide wheel on an E420... fender lip rolling, etc. If you want zero mods, you need to step back to a 7.5" wheel.
Re: Explane the ET system to me and what i need to be looking for for my E-420.
If you settled for a 205/55-16, you'd probably be fine with 16x8, ET34 wheels (stock E500E figment)
225's will more than likely rub on large dips/bumps with 8" wide wheels.
If you settled for a 205/55-16, you'd probably be fine with 16x8, ET34 wheels (stock E500E figment)
225's will more than likely rub on large dips/bumps with 8" wide wheels.
Re: Explane the ET system to me and what i need to be looking for for my E-420.
I personally consider a 205/55 tire undersized for an 8.0 wheel. If you're only going to have 205 rubber, get the factory-correct 7.0 wheel in the first place... just my $0.02...
I personally consider a 205/55 tire undersized for an 8.0 wheel. If you're only going to have 205 rubber, get the factory-correct 7.0 wheel in the first place... just my $0.02...
Re: Explane the ET system to me and what i need to be looking for for my E-420.
Most 205/55-16 tires are "rated" to use up to a 7.5" wide wheel so going to 8" is a very minor stretch, so minor that the tire will not appear to be stretched at all. If the tire has a rim protector lip, it will still protrude past the rim. There's a benefit to minor stretching, as in the case of a 205 on an 8" wheel, and that is better steering response, just don't get carried away like some folks who stretch a 205 all the way to 10", which is very noticeable and leaves the rim very exposed...probably not the safest approach.
Most 205/55-16 tires are "rated" to use up to a 7.5" wide wheel so going to 8" is a very minor stretch, so minor that the tire will not appear to be stretched at all. If the tire has a rim protector lip, it will still protrude past the rim. There's a benefit to minor stretching, as in the case of a 205 on an 8" wheel, and that is better steering response, just don't get carried away like some folks who stretch a 205 all the way to 10", which is very noticeable and leaves the rim very exposed...probably not the safest approach.
And if you're concerned about the safety of stretching a tire .5" over the recommended wheel width, here's what Tirerack has to say about it:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=198
[snippet]
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=198
[snippet]
Additionally, some vehicle manufacturers have developed Original Equipment applications in which the rim widths are not within the tire's original approved rim width range. For example:
[/snippet]1995 BMW M3 combined 235/40R17 sized tires on 17x7.5" rims (which are 0.5" less than the narrowest 8.0" wide rim listed for the size).
Corvette C3 models combined P225/70R15 sized tires on 15x8" rims (which are 0.5" wider than the 7.5" wide rim now listed for the size).
Corvette C4 models combined P255/50R16 sized tires on optional 16x9.5" rims (which are 0.5" wider than the 9.0" wide rim now listed for the size).
The rear tire application for Porsche 911 GT3 cars during 2010 - 2012 model years combined 305/30R19 sized rear tires on 19x12" rims (which are 0.5" wider than the 11.5" wide rim listed for the size).
While outside the normal recommended rim width ranges, these applications meet the specifications of the vehicle manufacturer.Corvette C3 models combined P225/70R15 sized tires on 15x8" rims (which are 0.5" wider than the 7.5" wide rim now listed for the size).
Corvette C4 models combined P255/50R16 sized tires on optional 16x9.5" rims (which are 0.5" wider than the 9.0" wide rim now listed for the size).
The rear tire application for Porsche 911 GT3 cars during 2010 - 2012 model years combined 305/30R19 sized rear tires on 19x12" rims (which are 0.5" wider than the 11.5" wide rim listed for the size).
I agree with GSXR that a 205 is slightly undersized for a 16x8, but do-able if needed for a specific reason.
I run 225/55-16s on my 16x8 Lorinsers (560SEC, ET11 deep-dish) in the rear, and 225/50-16s on the front to avoid a slight rubbing issue over bumps. A 225 is just about the perfect width for a 16x8'er.
Cheers,
Gerry
I run 225/55-16s on my 16x8 Lorinsers (560SEC, ET11 deep-dish) in the rear, and 225/50-16s on the front to avoid a slight rubbing issue over bumps. A 225 is just about the perfect width for a 16x8'er.
Cheers,
Gerry
Thanks, Glen. Interesting that all the OEM's were maximum 0.5" away from the "recommended" widths. This is quite different from the crowd who try to fit the narrowest tires to the widest wheels and think it somehow looks "cool".
I spent quite a bit of time trying to deal with 8.0 wide wheels on a standard 124. Even with a near-ideal offset of ET38, it wasn't worth the hassle, IMO. I currently run 16x7.0, 16x7.5, or 17x7.5 on my standard 124's. Sure, 8.0+ can work but you gotta do the modifications, or drive like a granny (besides the one from Pasadena).
The MB 8 hole 16 X 7.0 ET 46 is a good alternative.
Used on Euro 400E with 215-55-16 tire
It's on the EPC under Euro market
On tire size, back in the mid to late 80's, GM used 16 X 8" wheels
with 245/50/16 tires on IROC Z28 and Trans Am WS6 cars
Used on Euro 400E with 215-55-16 tire
It's on the EPC under Euro market
On tire size, back in the mid to late 80's, GM used 16 X 8" wheels
with 245/50/16 tires on IROC Z28 and Trans Am WS6 cars
Absolutely, Vader!!
I have experimented with just about every non-silly tire and wheel combination possible using factory wheels on 124's and this set up is absolutely the ultimate for a non E5E, IMO.
For those that didn't know, just as on early 500E's, the first version 400E brakes just weren't big enough to avoid complaints in Europe. In a manner and time frame virtually identical to the 500, the remedy was to convert them to the then current production SL600 front brakes as of early '93 production. That change required this particular 16" wheel. At around the same time the WIS listed this wheel as an approved accessory for most 124's. This brake and wheel modification was not done on USA version cars in the interest of CAFE.
I realize this next part won't be considered a benefit by everybody, but it is an enormous plus according to my personal taste. That aesthetic benefit for me is that with this set up the car looks absolutely dead stock, except somehow exceptionally good.
The functional benefit which is vastly more important is that this setup actually works! It is straight "bolt on" as there are no clearance or modification issues of any kind. It rides correctly, steers correctly, has a linear response and breakaway. It doesn't stimulate annoying resonances and vibrations. It looks and works like it was designed for the car for the best of all possible reasons, the reason being that it actually was designed for the car!
Over the years, I have done two versions of this set up on 3 of my own six-cylinder 124 cars, and on my '93 400E. On my 103 motor cars, including my current almost 300K mile backup daily driver 260E, I used 205/55/16 because I didn't want to gear those cars up. On the 3.2L and 4.2L cars I used the 215/55/16.
The reason I haven't spoken up about this possibility yet is that unless the situation has changed these wheels have not been available new for many years, and since they were not fitted as standard to any USA version car I would bet that the chances of finding a used set here are about zero, not withstanding me personally ordering and buying four sets of them between '94 and '01. And it was a 5 wheel set that I used on the 400 because I put the late version euro 400 brakes on it too, and I was not going to put myself in the position of having to change two wheels on the side of the road if I had a flat on the front...
I won't likely be in a position to check on availability or prices of these for a few work days yet, but if anyone else can, here's the numbers as they were at that time. Some of these numbers, most likely the bolts will have changed.
Wheel, silver painted version: B6 6 47 0069
Wheel, clear coated "diamond / machined" finish: B6 6 47 0087
Valve stems: 000 400 03 13
Bolts: 210 400 01 70
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Only thing I can find is this one. It's a 16x7.5 with a 38mm backspace and they only recommend a 205x55x16.
Is this the wheel you are talking as the specs don't seem right.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...lse&filterNew=All&filterWeight=All&sort=Brand
You can run a 215/55/16 tire on that wheel, I'm running a 205/60/15 on the stock 15 X 6.5" wheel
Mercedes recommends that size on their 7.0" wheel
The ET difference is because the wheel is a 1/2" wider. (That# is ET, not back space)
And yes, that is the wheel I'll be getting for my 400E in the future.
Mercedes recommends that size on their 7.0" wheel
The ET difference is because the wheel is a 1/2" wider. (That# is ET, not back space)
And yes, that is the wheel I'll be getting for my 400E in the future.
YES on this wheel for a W124, much better choice looks wise, I wish they made these in 18" !!!
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Here is another to consider, a bit sportier and a bit less weight.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...rue&filterNew=All&filterWeight=All&sort=Brand
Either size will work on either wheel, per the tire mfr's allowed range of wheel widths... and yup, MB did spec different sizes on the 124. But they spec'd the 7.0/205 and 7.5/215 setup on a whole pile of later chassis in the mid/late 90's and early 2000's. Any of those combos should work fine.
Just to summarize... for most factory MB fitments in the late 90's, a 16x7.0 wheel will use a 205/55 tire,while a 16x7.5 will use a 215/55 tire. I currently have the 16x7.5 (W210) wheel with 215/55 tire on my early 124. No issues.
I have also used the 210 eight hole wheel on non .036 124's no issues whatsoever. I preferred the 7 inch version on these cars because they love the extra sidewall compliance, and my experience is that the 215's tend to wear a tiny bit better on the 7 inch wheel than they do on the 7.5 inch wheel but the 7.5 was definitely not a dealbreaker. I did this on 2 friend's cars when the "correct" 124 wheel was no longer available in diamond finish. I would absolutely not use 205 / 55 tires on the 7.5 inch wheel on any Benz. And I would definitely not use 205/55/16 or 225/50/16 on any size wheel on the 124.034. Those tire sizes on the 400 massively amplify impact harshness and offer no benefits. I hated it when I tried it with takeoffs from one of my 103 engine cars. I couldn't get them off of my 400 fast enough...
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Hey I could always finds me some GOLD center caps and lugs then order the CHROME version. Truly would PIMP MY RIDE 
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_gar...A&wheelModel=Type+8&wheelFinish=Chrome+Plated
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_gar...A&wheelModel=Type+8&wheelFinish=Chrome+Plated
Hey I could always finds me some GOLD center caps and lugs then order the CHROME version. Truly would PIMP MY RIDE
You wouldn't be the first...
I know see them all the time round here like that and they mostly are 190's and 300's. Kinda thought about it though in just chrome as it would add to the total shock and awe ambush off a red-light ability with this car
.Now if the E-420 only had the 4:10 gear and a real posie like my Volvo ( it's a winter pac car)
.
I Kinda thought about it though in just chrome as it would add to the total shock and awe ambush off a red-light ability with this car
On a serious note, the chrome can be done correctly, but it almost never is. Usually the aluminum starts to corrode and the chrome flakes off in short order. And the tires will often slip on the beads until the chrome in the bead starts to corrode. Then they no longer spin, they just leak air past the bead. And it's double your pleasure as both front and rears slip! The rears slip on hard acceleration, and the fronts on braking...
Similarly afflicted vehicles are all over here too. Usually with the air conditioning not working, so the windows are down even on the worst summer days. That's the "490" climate control: 4 windows down, drive 90mph everywhere if the car can reach it.
Once you move into the "higher" MB classes, think of say an S-class or SL with any kind of failed hydraulic or air suspension system, along with the failed air conditioner and you have what's known around here as a "Shake and Bake" The wheels will ALWAYS chrome. I think it's a law...
You can change your 2.24 gears to 2.65, 2.82, or 3.06 and also pop a Quaife or WaveTrac in with it. But that will probably cost almost as much as you paid for the car.
Yep on that and this one will stay very close to stock as I like the long distance highway pounder concept just fine.You can change your 2.24 gears to 2.65, 2.82, or 3.06 and also pop a Quaife or WaveTrac in with it. But that will probably cost almost as much as you paid for the car.
Would be interesting however to just see who one of these would do with a really free flowing exhaust and short gear the way they like to rev
. Just got the feeling I won't want to FEED it if I did it though .I thought the ideal/aggressive off-set on a 8" width rim on a standard w124 was ET28, per earlier post on offset options for 17" amg aero I rims.
Thanks, Glen. Interesting that all the OEM's were maximum 0.5" away from the "recommended" widths. This is quite different from the crowd who try to fit the narrowest tires to the widest wheels and think it somehow looks "cool".
I spent quite a bit of time trying to deal with 8.0 wide wheels on a standard 124. Even with a near-ideal offset of ET38, it wasn't worth the hassle, IMO. I currently run 16x7.0, 16x7.5, or 17x7.5 on my standard 124's. Sure, 8.0+ can work but you gotta do the modifications, or drive like a granny (besides the one from Pasadena).
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