Front and Rear suspension bushing replacements

[JCM1]

Hi All:
It's time to get rid of the squeaks and other suspension/body noises that have been getting louder and more noticeable. As the car is now 25 years old I'm sure that it Is time to do a complete replacement. Is there a list of all the front and rear bushings - perhaps a kit for front and rear ? I recently replaced the front LCAs to allow my 1992 500E to wear Silver Arrows so these parts are OK.

Many thanks and an early Happy 4th of July to all south of the border (Canadian that is!)


Joe

 

[TimL]

Hi All:
It's time to get rid of the squeaks and other suspension/body noises that have been getting louder and more noticeable. As the car is now 25 years old I'm sure that it Is time to do a complete replacement. Is there a list of all the front and rear bushings - perhaps a kit for front and rear ? I recently replaced the front LCAs to allow my 1992 500E to wear Silver Arrows so these parts are OK.

Many thanks and an early Happy 4th of July to all south of the border (Canadian that is!)


Joe

Would be super interested in the answer to Joe’s question. I just bought new OEM shocks, springs, LCAs and sway bar bushings and was wondering if there is any “while you’re at it” items to revive handling and to rid the car of suspension squeaks

 

[MB V8]

I think member, Ricardo, had a list of parts in a post of his. Look at his posts or maybe in the How To's.

 

[MB V8]

Members name is actually RicardoD Do a search under his name using the word suspension.

 

[gsxr]

There's a number of threads on this, but the other main items I'd consider are the 4 subframe-to-chassis mounts, and the lower rear wheel carrier support joints. These all have relatively short lifespans. The 5 links on the subframe tend to last a long time and may not need replacement; ditto for the V8 diff mounts.

 

[gerryvz]

As said, the relevant information is very definitely posted in various threads here on the forum. I've even seen threads where all of the suspension components required to do a rebuild are listed by part numbers.

Let me see if I can pull together a good list of "consumable" items for the 500E/E500, by suspension. I'll mark the rubber and bushing items in blue, for emphasis on stuff that does go bad over time.

For most of these parts, two will be required. For ones listed as "repair kit," generall the repair kit will cover both sides.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front struts: 124 320 43 30
Front lower control arms:

• Left: 124 330 34 07
• Right: 124 330 35 07

Upper strut mounts: 124 320 14 44
Front strut buffers: 124 323 06 44
Front strut rubber boots: 129 323 01 92
Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
Drag link: 124 460 14 05
Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 321 09 84 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 321 10 84 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)

Sway bar bushings:

• inner: 124 323 47 85
• outer: 124 323 51 85

REAR SUSPENSION:
Rear hydropneumatic struts: 124 320 42 13 (2 required)
Rear hydropneumatic strut hardware/bushing kit: 124 320 03 56 (2 required)

Subframe-related mounts:

• Subframe front bushing repair kit: 124 350 04 41 (includes 2 bushings + hardware)
• Subframe rear bushings: 129 351 14 42 (2 required)
• Subframe rear bushing hardware kit: 124 350 67 08 (1 required)
• Differential mount kit (forward): 124 350 97 08 (NLA)
• Differential mount bushings (rear): 129 351 18 42 (2 required)

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

Rear swaybar mount repair kit: 201 320 04 47
Rear swaybar end mounting bar: 124 320 02 89
Rear lower wheel carrier support joint bushing: 230 352 00 27

Five-link rear suspension control arms:

1. Standard bushing tie rod: 210 350 21 53
2. Strut rod: 210 350 33 06
3. Control strut: 210 350 34 06
4. Thrust arm: 210 350 38 06
5. Lower control arm (has bushings installed): 202 350 02 06

In any case, this should get you started. You MUST look at the EPC to confirm things. Again, for many of these items, there are HOW-TO articles that generally list the part numbers involved (unless superseded since, as is the case with the rear lower wheel carrier joint bushings, and I believe some rear subframe mounts).

Note: GSXR may or may not have edited this for clarity and whatnot.

 

[JCM1]

Thanks Gerry, GSXR and all for your useful posts!

I really appreciate the compilation! I looked at RicardoD posts and he had the engine removed for the front suspension items. That won't be the case for me!

Looks like there is a lot to replace but it will be wroth it to get the smooth, quiet ride back.

All the best,

Joe

 

[TimL]

As said, the relevant information is very definitely posted in various threads here on the forum. I've even seen threads where all of the suspension components required to do a rebuild are listed by part numbers.

Let me see if I can pull together a good list of "consumable" items for the 500E/E500, by suspension. I'll mark the rubber and bushing items in blue, for emphasis on stuff that does go bad over time.

For most of these parts, two will be required. For ones listed as "repair kit," generall the repair kit will cover both sides.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front struts: 124 320 43 30
Front lower control arms:

• Left: 124 330 34 07
• Right: 124 330 35 07

Upper strut mounts: 124 320 14 44
Front strut buffers: 124 323 06 44
Front strut rubber boots: 129 323 01 92
Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
Drag link: 124 460 14 05
Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 321 09 84 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 321 10 84 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)

Sway bar bushings:

• inner: 124 323 47 85
• outer: 124 323 51 85

REAR SUSPENSION:
Rear hydropneumatic struts: 124 320 42 13 (2 required)
Rear hydropneumatic strut hardware/bushing kit: 124 320 03 56 (2 required)

Subframe-related mounts:

• Subframe front bushing repair kit: 124 350 04 41 (includes 2 bushings + hardware)
• Subframe rear bushings: 124 351 02 42 (2 required)
• Subframe rear bushing hardware kit: 124 350 67 08 (1 required)
• Differential mount kit (forward): 124 350 97 08 (NLA)
• Differential mount bushings (rear): 129 351 18 42 (2 required)

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

Rear swaybar mount repair kit: 201 320 04 47
Rear swaybar end mounting bar: 124 320 02 89
Rear lower wheel carrier support joint bushing: 230 352 00 27

Five-link rear suspension control arms:

1. Standard bushing tie rod: 210 350 21 53
2. Strut rod: 210 350 33 06
3. Control strut: 210 350 34 06
4. Thrust arm: 210 350 38 06
5. Lower control arm (has bushings installed): 202 350 02 06

In any case, this should get you started. You MUST look at the EPC to confirm things. Again, for many of these items, there are HOW-TO articles that generally list the part numbers involved (unless superseded since, as is the case with the rear lower wheel carrier joint bushings, and I believe some rear subframe mounts).

Thanks GvZ, this is super helpful!

 

[Kyiv]

As said, the relevant information is very definitely posted in various threads here on the forum. I've even seen threads where all of the suspension components required to do a rebuild are listed by part numbers.

Let me see if I can pull together a good list of "consumable" items for the 500E/E500, by suspension. I'll mark the rubber and bushing items in blue, for emphasis on stuff that does go bad over time.

For most of these parts, two will be required. For ones listed as "repair kit," generall the repair kit will cover both sides.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front struts: 124 320 43 30
Front lower control arms:

• Left: 124 330 34 07
• Right: 124 330 35 07

Upper strut mounts: 124 320 14 44
Front strut buffers: 124 323 06 44
Front strut rubber boots: 129 323 01 92
Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
Drag link: 124 460 14 05
Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 321 09 84 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 321 10 84 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)

Sway bar bushings:

• inner: 124 323 47 85
• outer: 124 323 51 85

REAR SUSPENSION:
Rear hydropneumatic struts: 124 320 42 13 (2 required)
Rear hydropneumatic strut hardware/bushing kit: 124 320 03 56 (2 required)

Subframe-related mounts:

• Subframe front bushing repair kit: 124 350 04 41 (includes 2 bushings + hardware)
• Subframe rear bushings: 124 351 02 42 (2 required)
• Subframe rear bushing hardware kit: 124 350 67 08 (1 required)
• Differential mount kit (forward): 124 350 97 08 (NLA)
• Differential mount bushings (rear): 129 351 18 42 (2 required)

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

Rear swaybar mount repair kit: 201 320 04 47
Rear swaybar end mounting bar: 124 320 02 89
Rear lower wheel carrier support joint bushing: 230 352 00 27

Five-link rear suspension control arms:

1. Standard bushing tie rod: 210 350 21 53
2. Strut rod: 210 350 33 06
3. Control strut: 210 350 34 06
4. Thrust arm: 210 350 38 06
5. Lower control arm (has bushings installed): 202 350 02 06

In any case, this should get you started. You MUST look at the EPC to confirm things. Again, for many of these items, there are HOW-TO articles that generally list the part numbers involved (unless superseded since, as is the case with the rear lower wheel carrier joint bushings, and I believe some rear subframe mounts).

Gerry, you are a kind soul. Bless you. Information to die for (if one is not well versed) yet good luck finding it compiled so clearly or even at all, even if you offer people money for it...

 

[emerydc8]

With regard to the rear subframe mounts, are there any substitutes for the front and rear mount pulling tools listed in this job. http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/35-040.pdf

Front: 201 589 10 43 00 ($264). Rear: 201 589 11 43 00 ($530). Even if these tools are really available through Naperville, that's some heavy coin. Has anyone attempted this job or are these just bushings that don't usually wear out?

 

[gerryvz]

Jon,

The factory tools make the job much easier. There are Chrysler Crossfire tools that can be obtained on eBay that work exactly, made by Miller (they are actually Klann tools, with the Miller name on them for a few Chrysler applications). I believe the tools for doing this are detailed here on the forum in various threads.

Here's one example: https://www.500eboard.co/forums/index.php?threads/rear-subframe-bushings.4071/post-57956

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/index.php?threads/subframe-and-rear-suspension-refresh.9897/


Couple of relevant eBay auctions, after a quick search:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-TOO...227658&hash=item215734136f:g:MRMAAOSwAZxcoh~M

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-TOO...978370&hash=item19f04d6bcf:g:oPQAAOSwq9tZlYzW

 

[gsxr]

About the Miller tools: The 9110 is an exact fit for the new-style Sportline rear/large bushings, which are NLA... so, that tool isn't much help anymore. The 9111 is close in size, but not designed specifically for the 124 forward bushings. From memory, the plates may work if the subframe is dropped out of the car. However the center shaft is ~0.5mm too large to fit through the bolt hole in the mount, so you'll have to enlarge the hole a smidge. There was never a Miller tool for the old/original style, rear/large 124 bushings.

A number of the aftermarket tools from Baum or Klann may not be available anymore. The job can be done without the tools, but as Gerry said, it's easier with them. The rear/large bushing is easier to R&R. The forward/small tends to have the outer shell seized and often requires destructive methods to remove.

Here's a link to a DIY procedure using home-made stuff (I didn't author this):
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/subframe_bushing_install.pdf

 

[emerydc8]

Thanks guys. I think I would definitely want the right tools before trying this job. According to the EPC, only one repair kit is required for the front but two kits for the rear. Is that right? That seems to be the case in GVZ’s post above too.

[UPDATE] I bought the pullers from the ebay links GVZ posted. I also ordered the parts from Naperville.

 

[gerryvz]

I wonder if the Crossfire bushing would work as a “Sportline” equivalent?

 

[emerydc8]

I'm curious, what are the symptoms of a cracked or worn subframe bushing? Has anyone replaced theirs and noticed any difference?

 

[gerryvz]

I believe that Ken (Maui) recently did a total subframe rebuild. He should be able to tell us about any differences.

 

[gsxr]

I've replaced subframe bushings on *almost* every 124 that I've owned, and done a full subframe rebuild a few times. The rear mounts are often collapsed. There is not usually a "WOW!" factor with new parts, but it has eliminated some weird noises.

 

[emerydc8]

I've replaced subframe bushings on *almost* every 124 that I've owned, and done a full subframe rebuild a few times. The rear mounts are often collapsed. There is not usually a "WOW!" factor with new parts, but it has eliminated some weird noises.

Like creaking noises that may sound like the exhaust system hitting the heat shield when it's not?

 

[gsxr]

Like creaking noises that may sound like the exhaust system hitting the heat shield when it's not?

I had some creaking noises on acceleration/deceleration that I never could pinpoint, and after all the new parts went it, the noise was gone. But I don't know which exact item fixed it. On that particular car, due to the noise location, I think it may have been the forward/smaller subframe bushings. But the noise didn't sound like exhaust hitting heat shield. It's hard to describe noises via keyboard though.

 

[emerydc8]

I guess I brought up the exhaust issue because that was my first thought and the most logical thing that would make the noise. I got under the car and shook the exhaust and it wasn't making the noise that I was hearing.

 

[emerydc8]

The bushings came today. Dave is right -- the Miller 9111 tool for the front subframe bushings is slightly too large for the bushing hole. I had to use a 1/2" drill bit and run it through for a second or two to enlarge the hole so the bolt on the tool would fit through the bushing.

 

[gerryvz]

Jon,

You should do a HOW-TO on rear subframe bushing replacement !

 

[IslandMon]

@emerydc8 you willing to loan/rent out the tool when I tackle this job this winter? Im in RI USA

 

[emerydc8]

I haven't gotten to the job yet, but when I do, I'll definitely take a lot of pics. I don't know if either tool is going to work for me as neither one is a factory tool. GSXR said in his post above, "From memory, the plates may work if the subframe is dropped out of the car. However the center shaft is ~0.5mm too large to fit through the bolt hole in the mount, so you'll have to enlarge the hole a smidge."

I already resolved the center shaft issue by drilling the bushing out a smidge with a 1/2" drill, but if I have to drop the whole subframe, I won't be doing this job at all. As for the rear tool, there is still some question as to whether the Miller 9110 will even work to install the original, non Sportline bushings. In any case, I'll definitely post more information as I have it.

 

[emerydc8]

I received an email from Naperville regarding the Naphtolen H lubricant prescribed for installation of the subframe bushings. Anyone have a suggestion for a suitable substitute?

just an update:
PT# 000-989-14-60 & 129-351-18-42 OUT OF STOCK/NOT AVAILABLE
these items have been removed from this order.
thank you.

 

[gerryvz]

You can I think use any synthetic grease to do this, as long as it is compatible with rubber. Uncle Kent's "Synthetic grease" is quite good. If I had to use the stuff I had on hand, I'd consider using the Napa "Syl-Glide" that I have in my lubricant/fluids cabinet.

 

[gsxr]

I don't know a specific lube to recommend, but use something that will evaporate or dry out. You don't want the lube to remain slippery, as the mounts can and will slip out of place. In some cases, I've had to leave the bushing tool clamping the new bushing in place for hours, or overnight, before it would "stick" in place. IIRC, this is mostly an issue for the forward/smaller bushings.

As mentioned previously, this job can be done with the subframe in the car, I've done it at least a half-dozen times. But you do need to lower the subframe several inches to make room for the tools. Watch the brake hose and ASR/sensor wires when lowering to make sure nothing is stretched.

 

[emerydc8]

Thanks guys. Ill stop by NAPA and see if they have any Syl-Glide. I'm glad the subframe doesn't need to be dropped to do this job. That would have been a show-stopper for me.

 

[emerydc8]

I just went to the dealer and got some more information about this lube. The old lube in the picture is NLA. The parts guy talked to a tech who showed him what they use now. It's an 8-ounce spray bottle of liquid (000 989 37 60). The dealer wants $107. Naperville has it for $79.18, although I think I might look for a better (cheaper) alternative. Is there koala claw in this stuff too?

 

[atg]

Anyone have a photo of sportline subframe bushings vs others? Curious as to the difference, if any.

Also, has anyone figured out how to test the subframe bushings once the subframe is out of the car? I am swapping a 500e subframe into my 300tdt and it already has some pretty nice looking bushings in it.

Finally, has anyone done a full urethane bushing swap? Seems like buying all the new links together and then pressing the rubber bushings out, then putting urethane in is the way to go.

 

[gsxr]

Anyone have a photo of sportline subframe bushings vs others? Curious as to the difference, if any.

They are visually identical. The Sportline bushings (old, and new/different style) are both NLA so it's a moot point right now.

Also, has anyone figured out how to test the subframe bushings once the subframe is out of the car? I am swapping a 500e subframe into my 300tdt and it already has some pretty nice looking bushings in it.

I don't know any way to test out of the car. The fronts usually get cracked, the rears collapse.

Finally, has anyone done a full urethane bushing swap? Seems like buying all the new links together and then pressing the rubber bushings out, then putting urethane in is the way to go.

Urethane might be a fun experiment on the track, but you don't want it on the street. Also, the MB bushings are bonded to the metal shells, so the suspension naturally returns to the center/static position. Anything else - urethane, Heim joints, K-Mac, etc will not do this.

http://124performance.com/movies/Mercedes/rear_suspension_rebound.mpg

 

[atg]

It isnt moot b/c you could take the old shells and pour them full of whatever durometer stuff you want.

I doubt the bushings are setting the ride height.

Have you tried urethane, or driven a car like that?

 

[gsxr]

It isnt moot b/c you could take the old shells and pour them full of whatever durometer stuff you want.

That may be possible, although I can't recall anyone trying this. I'm also not sure if you want the subframe to be a solid connection to the chassis.

I doubt the bushings are setting the ride height.

It doesn't set the ride height. It affects the return-to-center function. The spring and damper specs assume this is built into the 5 links, if you remove it, weird stuff can happen. Shoot, with only Heim-joint rear camber arms, one of my cars developed nasty wheel hop during a burnout. Swapped back in the stock camber arm and the problem disappeared. YMMV.

Have you tried urethane, or driven a car like that?

I've not used urethane on a 124 specifically, other than trying K-Mac camber correction. The squeaking drove me crazy, grease didn't stop it for any substantial length of time, and I ended removing & selling my K-Mac kits. In general, urethane isn't silent. I don't know anyone who uses urethane on a 124 street car. Jono might on his track rat.

 

[atg]

Winmutt on std did it to a 300d. Said it was the single best thing he did to the handling of the car. He also said it didnt squeak at all.

I fear the squeak but I have a full set of urethane bushings for the car. Going north of 400Hp and more torque so I just want some added stiffness back there to keep it from jumping around.

 

[gsxr]

Wimutt! Haven't heard that name in a while. Assuming he was working on a 124, is there a thread with more info?

Remember that AMG/Brabus/etc pushed 400-450hp and ~450tq through all stock rear suspension parts. If you are moving into that level of power in a 6-cyl 124, you might consider the V8 subframe, the diff mounts are substantially larger/stronger than the non-V8.

 

[atg]

Yeah I have a subframe out of a 500e and a wavetrac swapped diff and v8 halfshafts to swap in. I will use the poly subframe items and probably stock links. My lower carrier bushings already squeak and they are shot, but if the lower arms come with bushings installed I will probably just go that route. Got some swaybars from jono. Got a v8 driveshaft but might pair it up with the old front section until that guibo gives up. Custom shaft is probably a lot safer.

I think the winmutt comment was in the suspension upgrade forum on std. But now that I think about it, it might have been ray sorenson.

Btw wrapping the poly bushings in a layer of teflon threadseal tape will help a lot more than grease.

 

[gsxr]

My lower carrier bushings already squeak and they are shot, but if the lower arms come with bushings installed I will probably just go that route.

The lower control arms come with new rubber bushings installed on the inboard side. The support joints are on the outboard end, these are pressed into the rear wheel carrier. They do not come with the control arms. And these are what cause the squeaking.

Got a v8 driveshaft but might pair it up with the old front section until that guibo gives up. Custom shaft is probably a lot safer.

The V8 driveshaft won't fit in a 6-cyl chassis without modifications. The lengths are different. I think both lengths are different but I'm not positive.

 

[atg]

Thanks. SurfRodder did a mix and match. Front sections vary in length apparently. Might be time for a 722.6 while I am dealing with it all.

 

[linjam]

As said, the relevant information is very definitely posted in various threads here on the forum. I've even seen threads where all of the suspension components required to do a rebuild are listed by part numbers.

Let me see if I can pull together a good list of "consumable" items for the 500E/E500, by suspension. I'll mark the rubber and bushing items in blue, for emphasis on stuff that does go bad over time.

For most of these parts, two will be required. For ones listed as "repair kit," generall the repair kit will cover both sides.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front struts: 124 320 43 30
Front lower control arms:

• Left: 124 330 34 07
• Right: 124 330 35 07

Upper strut mounts: 124 320 14 44
Front strut buffers: 124 323 06 44
Front strut rubber boots: 129 323 01 92
Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
Drag link: 124 460 14 05
Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 321 09 84 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 321 10 84 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)

Sway bar bushings:

• inner: 124 323 47 85
• outer: 124 323 51 85

REAR SUSPENSION:
Rear hydropneumatic struts: 124 320 42 13 (2 required)
Rear hydropneumatic strut hardware/bushing kit: 124 320 03 56 (2 required)

Subframe-related mounts:

• Subframe front bushing repair kit: 124 350 04 41 (includes 2 bushings + hardware)
• Subframe rear bushings: 124 351 02 42 (2 required)
• Subframe rear bushing hardware kit: 124 350 67 08 (1 required)
• Differential mount kit (forward): 124 350 97 08 (NLA)
• Differential mount bushings (rear): 129 351 18 42 (2 required)

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

Rear swaybar mount repair kit: 201 320 04 47
Rear swaybar end mounting bar: 124 320 02 89
Rear lower wheel carrier support joint bushing: 230 352 00 27

Five-link rear suspension control arms:

1. Standard bushing tie rod: 210 350 21 53
2. Strut rod: 210 350 33 06
3. Control strut: 210 350 34 06
4. Thrust arm: 210 350 38 06
5. Lower control arm (has bushings installed): 202 350 02 06

In any case, this should get you started. You MUST look at the EPC to confirm things. Again, for many of these items, there are HOW-TO articles that generally list the part numbers involved (unless superseded since, as is the case with the rear lower wheel carrier joint bushings, and I believe some rear subframe mounts).

Note: GSXR may or may not have edited this for clarity and whatnot.

Anyone know which spring shims (part numbers) are appropriate for the E500 "Limited" rear springs (124-324-38-04)

 

[Kyiv]

Anyone know which spring shims (part numbers) are appropriate for the E500 "Limited" rear springs (124-324-38-04)

Gerry wrote:

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

 

[gerryvz]

Actually those were @gsxr’s corrections/clarifications as far as the spring colors, so I can’t take credit for that post.

 

[linjam]

As said, the relevant information is very definitely posted in various threads here on the forum. I've even seen threads where all of the suspension components required to do a rebuild are listed by part numbers.

Let me see if I can pull together a good list of "consumable" items for the 500E/E500, by suspension. I'll mark the rubber and bushing items in blue, for emphasis on stuff that does go bad over time.

For most of these parts, two will be required. For ones listed as "repair kit," generall the repair kit will cover both sides.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front struts: 124 320 43 30
Front lower control arms:

• Left: 124 330 34 07
• Right: 124 330 35 07

Upper strut mounts: 124 320 14 44
Front strut buffers: 124 323 06 44
Front strut rubber boots: 129 323 01 92
Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
Drag link: 124 460 14 05
Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 321 09 84 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 321 10 84 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)

Sway bar bushings:

• inner: 124 323 47 85
• outer: 124 323 51 85

REAR SUSPENSION:
Rear hydropneumatic struts: 124 320 42 13 (2 required)
Rear hydropneumatic strut hardware/bushing kit: 124 320 03 56 (2 required)

Subframe-related mounts:

• Subframe front bushing repair kit: 124 350 04 41 (includes 2 bushings + hardware)
• Subframe rear bushings: 124 351 02 42 (2 required)
• Subframe rear bushing hardware kit: 124 350 67 08 (1 required)
• Differential mount kit (forward): 124 350 97 08 (NLA)
• Differential mount bushings (rear): 129 351 18 42 (2 required)

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

Rear swaybar mount repair kit: 201 320 04 47
Rear swaybar end mounting bar: 124 320 02 89
Rear lower wheel carrier support joint bushing: 230 352 00 27

Five-link rear suspension control arms:

1. Standard bushing tie rod: 210 350 21 53
2. Strut rod: 210 350 33 06
3. Control strut: 210 350 34 06
4. Thrust arm: 210 350 38 06
5. Lower control arm (has bushings installed): 202 350 02 06

In any case, this should get you started. You MUST look at the EPC to confirm things. Again, for many of these items, there are HOW-TO articles that generally list the part numbers involved (unless superseded since, as is the case with the rear lower wheel carrier joint bushings, and I believe some rear subframe mounts).

Note: GSXR may or may not have edited this for clarity and whatnot.

Gerry, I gave Tom Hanson at the Classic Center your above part number for the front struts, and he told me that part number is incorrect, at least for my '92 500E. He said the correct part number is 124-320-50-30-64.

Jamie

 

[linjam]

As said, the relevant information is very definitely posted in various threads here on the forum. I've even seen threads where all of the suspension components required to do a rebuild are listed by part numbers.

Let me see if I can pull together a good list of "consumable" items for the 500E/E500, by suspension. I'll mark the rubber and bushing items in blue, for emphasis on stuff that does go bad over time.

For most of these parts, two will be required. For ones listed as "repair kit," generall the repair kit will cover both sides.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Front struts: 124 320 43 30
Front lower control arms:

• Left: 124 330 34 07
• Right: 124 330 35 07

Upper strut mounts: 124 320 14 44
Front strut buffers: 124 323 06 44
Front strut rubber boots: 129 323 01 92
Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
Drag link: 124 460 14 05
Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 321 09 84 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 321 10 84 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)

Sway bar bushings:

• inner: 124 323 47 85
• outer: 124 323 51 85

REAR SUSPENSION:
Rear hydropneumatic struts: 124 320 42 13 (2 required)
Rear hydropneumatic strut hardware/bushing kit: 124 320 03 56 (2 required)

Subframe-related mounts:

• Subframe front bushing repair kit: 124 350 04 41 (includes 2 bushings + hardware)
• Subframe rear bushings: 124 351 02 42 (2 required)
• Subframe rear bushing hardware kit: 124 350 67 08 (1 required)
• Differential mount kit (forward): 124 350 97 08 (NLA)
• Differential mount bushings (rear): 129 351 18 42 (2 required)

Spring shims (only one size needed, depending on ride height desired):

• 8mm: 201 325 09 44 (for use with blue-stripe stock springs)
• 13mm: 201 325 10 44 (for use with red-stripe stock springs)
• 18mm: 201 325 11 44 (not used)

Rear swaybar mount repair kit: 201 320 04 47
Rear swaybar end mounting bar: 124 320 02 89
Rear lower wheel carrier support joint bushing: 230 352 00 27

Five-link rear suspension control arms:

1. Standard bushing tie rod: 210 350 21 53
2. Strut rod: 210 350 33 06
3. Control strut: 210 350 34 06
4. Thrust arm: 210 350 38 06
5. Lower control arm (has bushings installed): 202 350 02 06

In any case, this should get you started. You MUST look at the EPC to confirm things. Again, for many of these items, there are HOW-TO articles that generally list the part numbers involved (unless superseded since, as is the case with the rear lower wheel carrier joint bushings, and I believe some rear subframe mounts).

Note: GSXR may or may not have edited this for clarity and whatnot.

Also, I asked Tom Hanson at the Mercedes Classic Center the following:

"Oh, and also, are those the correct shims for the springs I ordered from you a few weeks ago? The springs I am referencing are the stock standard fronts and the “Limited” rears — Not the stock standard rears."

He replied:

"The EPC is very difficult to figure out which spring shims to use for any given spring."

Not sure how to interpret that.

J

 

[gerryvz]

Gerry, I gave Tom Hanson at the Classic Center your above part number for the front struts, and he told me that part number is incorrect, at least for my '92 500E. He said the correct part number is 124-320-50-30-64.

Jamie

As far as I can see, the 124 320 50 30 64 is the correct CURRENT front strut part number for 500E models.

The number I provided above is correct, but it is a slightly old part number that supersedes to the part number that Tom gave you. So while my number is NOT incorrect, it is also not current. I just looked it up in the Pee-Pee, and there are several part numbers (mine included) that supersede to the number that Tom gave you.

 

[linjam]

As far as I can see, the 124 320 50 30 64 is the correct CURRENT front strut part number for 500E models.

The number I provided above is correct, but it is a slightly old part number that supersedes to the part number that Tom gave you. So while my number is NOT incorrect, it is also not current. I just looked it up in the Pee-Pee, and there are several part numbers (mine included) that supersede to the number that Tom gave you.

Ah. Ok. Thanks

 

[gsxr]

There is a VIN break for the front struts.

Up to B712318 use 124-320-43-30 which have an M12 hole for the pinch bolt.

As of B712319 use 124-320-50-30 which have an M14 hole for the pinch bolt.

The hardware kits are different as well due to the pinch bolt size. More details here: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/124_suspension.txt

If a -64 suffix is added to the p/n, that may indicate a change in supplier, but is otherwise irrelevant... order the part # without the suffix and the dealer will get you the correct part either way.

AFAICT, both early & late are still available.

 

[Kyiv]

Could anyone with a EPC tell me correct part numbers for sway bar bushings for the 1993 400E (VIN WDBEA34E9PB970081)

mboem parts shows:

• inner (to frame): 124-323-56-85
• outer: (to control arm): 124-323-49-85

Of course outer with the above part # is too small

 

[northNH]

Outer is -50 85, same for virtually all size 124 front bars;
Inner is correct...

AFAIK best non-official EPC:

parts catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA, original catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA, online catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA, Car catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA

parts catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA, original catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA, online catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA, Car catalog Car mercedes CHASSIS USA

mercedes.7zap.com

Only lacks good individual part # lookup.

 

[Kyiv]

@northNH, thanks!

 

[gsxr]

Note there are two different choices for outer (22mm) bushings, hard (#51) or soft (#50). The .034 uses the soft version from the factory.

More details are on this nifty website:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_sway_bars/124_swaybars.pdf