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Fuel pump/relay and multiple other problems after 4 years in storage and 7 without use

Is anyone having trouble access that thread?

Dave, I was writing my response with a part number, as you posted that thread. Afterwards, just in case Pablo wouldn't click on it, I wanted to "clean up" after myself, in case I provided wrong part #, I wanted to show how I got it and reiterate to Pablo to do a check on his side, to make sure part # was correct. I always read your responces to my queries and don't take for granted your willingness to share your expertise!
 
The thread linked above has all this info, and yes the p/n is correct. Is anyone having trouble access that thread?

· 1x Plug Socket – Part number 140-545-00-26
· 9x Round Pin- 003-545-48-26 (Number of pins may vary per car)

I didn´t any trouble accessing the thread... It is very complete and very well written. thanks for sharing it
 
So a little update on my car's progress...


Because of the coronavirus I haven't been able to work in the car frequently... I made a big order with parts I needed back in April but it got canceled. Here in Costa Rica it is extremely hard to find parts for the M119 engine, include air filters which its crazy. They only thing I can find is the oil filter and the oil 😅 So the fact that my order was canceled and that I had to stay at home meant no working on the car for a couple of weeks.


As recommended by some of you, I removed the LH module and took to a computer repair shop. I read in other threads that due to the cost of labor involved in replacing them it was probably best to just buy a used one in good conditions. However, since labor here is cheaper than in the USA I decided that it was better to just take it to the computer shop and give it a try. After a couple of days, the shop guy called me and told me opened it and found that 3 of the 6 capacitors needed replacement (black ones in the pic). He replaced them and I got the module 3 weeks ago and since then I haven't had a clicking relay which is awesome!

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 11.01.50 PM.jpeg

After it, I decided to continue working on the car and I replaced the caps and rotors using replacement parts I had ordered back in February. The old caps and rotors looked sooooo bad I have no idea how the engine keep running... I forgot to take pics but they were bad. After putting the new ones in I could tell the difference. The engine runs smoother and it cranks faster when starting the engine. I know the caps were replaced at some point because the ones I removed were Beru but I think those were in the engine at least since 2003 which is when my grandpa bought the car and he says he never replaced them.

After replacing the caps I decided to tackle the issue with the power steering system. (I talked about it in this another thread). Basically the issue I had was that the pump was making a loud noise whenever I moved the steering wheel. I turned the wheels side to side many many many times to remove the air in the system but I had zero sucess... I really did not know what was the problem because it looked like there was no more air in the system and since the pump was covered in old oil and debri I thought it was a good time to clean it and remove all the fluid to see if that would fix the issue. I removed the cap and rotor and cleaned everything that was visible (I was able to see the pump badge that was impossible to see before). I removed the fluid reservoir to replace the hose going from the reservoir to the pump because it was leaking badly... what I found just reinforce my idea that only careless mechanics had worked on this car before... I literally found 2 screws inside that hose and they were blocking all the fluid that was going to the pump and that's why the pump was hissing... After removing them, replacing the hose, and putting everything back together the pump is as quiet(and clean) as it could be. I still need to replace some hoses that are leaking but I will tackle that in a couple of weeks.

So far everything is going well and like I mentioned, a highly-recommended mechanic came and checked the car. He used to work at the dealership were my grandpa bought the car back in 2003 and they both still remember each other... what a small world. So the socket is bad and it explains why the mechanic could not use his SDS. I checked the socket better and all the cables and pins are fine. They need to be cleaned but all the wires are fine. As for the socket, it needs replacement because some of the parts that hold the pins are broken so the pins just slide downward when plugging the SDS and that is why the scanner doesn't work. I ordered the parts yesterday and I'm hoping they don't cancel my order again.

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 10.59.52 PM (4).jpeg

As soon as I replace the socket and the mechanic tells me the codes, I will know the actual state of my car... As for now, I have to replace the trans fluid pan gasket since it has a small leak. I also need to install the single pump system and replace the other leaking hoses from the PS pump.

Here are some pics of my car :) I'll have it detailed this upcoming week to make it somewhat presentable and the plan is to take it to the paint shop in a couple of months to have it fully resprayed. :mbstar:

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 11.37.23 PM.jpegWhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 11.37.04 PM.jpegWhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 10.59.52 PM (2).jpegWhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 10.59.52 PM (1).jpeg

Ps: thanks to all the admins and everyone for the help. This forum is an amazing source of information and without it, I wouldn't be able to keep fixing my car. I have been part of many forums but none like this one. Everyone is so helpful and knowledgeable :beerchug:
 
Today I prepared the car for tomorrow's inspection. If it passes, then I will be able to drive it legally on the roads so Im crossing my fingers... The mechanic came today to help me prepare the car and he also scanned it. He got the following codes:

LH1 009 Tml 50 starter signal not recognized
LH1 017 CAN: No reception from EFP, TPM. LLR N4/1, N4/3, N4/4
LH1 018 CAN: No reception from EZ1 N1/3
LH1 021 Oxygen sensor G3/2 signal -//-
LH1 027 Fuel injection valves Y62 -//-,Γ ¬

EFP 054 Actuator EFP M16/1
EFP 096 Starter lock-out and reversing lamp switch S16/3
EFP 182 Safety fuel shut-off swtich signal for LH N3/1
EFP 224 Idle speed contact swtich S29/3

GM 006 Max. temperature in module box exceeded M2/2
GM 009 Voltage supplu N3/1 -//-
GM 010 Fuse F2 or control unit N16/1
GM 011 Fuse F3 or control unit N16/1
GM 012 Fuse F1 or control unit N16/1
GM 013 Fuse F4 or control unit N16/1

ASR 030 CAN: No reception from EFP N4/1

These are more codes than what I would like to see but I guess it could've been worse for a car that has been parked for many years in very humid conditions... Any leads/help regarding how to fix those codes will be more than welcomed!

:thankyou1:
 
Pablo, have you reset codes and drove your car before reading them again?
 
Pablo, have you reset codes and drove your car before reading them again?

We reset the codes and did not drive the car before reading them again. If the car passes inspection, I will be driving it this and next week and we will scan it the weekend afterwards as my mechanic believes some codes might clear themselves.
 
We reset the codes and did not drive the car before reading them again. If the car passes inspection, I will be driving it this and next week and we will scan it the weekend afterwards as my mechanic believes some codes might clear themselves.
Your mechanic is correct. Some of those codes are very old and do not clear themselves. After driving a few hundred km's, check again. Any codes which come back quickly need further investigation.

:pc1:
 
Your mechanic is correct. Some of those codes are very old and do not clear themselves. After driving a few hundred km's, check again. Any codes which come back quickly need further investigation.

:pc1:

I´m glad to hear this and sorry for the spam 😅 I´ll be updating you all after driving the car for +100kms and getting it scanned again.

Thanks!
 
Hi all! I went to a muffler shop to have my cats checked because I had a suspicion that they were bad. At low RPM my car would run just fine (not great) but at higher RPM it would feel very sluggish. Indeed, the muffler guy told me that the cats were bad. To test if the cats were causing all the problems he told me to put a straight pipe on both exhaust for a couple days and if the car ran fine, then we could put new cats.

So he put the straight pipes and now the car feels better but it is still sluggish at high RPMs. He tells me that the exhaust smells like gas and that the car is be running rich. What might be causing it to run rich? I have replaced caps and rotors, changed the fuel pump, filter and rebuilt all injectors... I haven't replace neither the spark plugs nor the wires. I know there are many reasons why an engine might run rich but based on your experience and on this info, were should I look first into?
 
Fuel control is most likely to cause a rich condition... need to check O2 feedback, MAF readings, and LH module. The mechanic's SDS will show this data, but it depends if he knows how to interpret it. It isn't likely to be caused by ignition, assuming there are no misfires and it runs smoothly.
 
Fuel control is most likely to cause a rich condition... need to check O2 feedback, MAF readings, and LH module. The mechanic's SDS will show this data, but it depends if he knows how to interpret it. It isn't likely to be caused by ignition, assuming there are no misfires and it runs smoothly.

I will check it next week whenever my mechanic comes with his scanner. However, I unplugged the MAF sensor and the car drives a little better, particularly when accelerating. Is this indicative that the MAF sensor needs replacement?
 
I will check it next week whenever my mechanic comes with his scanner. However, I unplugged the MAF sensor and the car drives a little better, particularly when accelerating. Is this indicative that the MAF sensor needs replacement?
Based on that... it is POSSIBLE that your MAF is faulty, or giving inaccurate readings. Asusming you don't have a spare known-good MAF available to test with... the only definite way to find out is viewing live data on SDS for your current MAF.

Since you disconnected the MAF, remember there may be a code on the LH module because of this, but it can be cleared/ignored. Shoot me a PM if you need help with the diagnostics...
 
Based on that... it is POSSIBLE that your MAF is faulty, or giving inaccurate readings. Asusming you don't have a spare known-good MAF available to test with... the only definite way to find out is viewing live data on SDS for your current MAF.

Since you disconnected the MAF, remember there may be a code on the LH module because of this, but it can be cleared/ignored. Shoot me a PM if you need help with the diagnostics...

Sounds good! I'll clean my MAF with MAF cleaner and test it. I also got a spare MAF that the seller claims its working "like new"... I'll let you know how it works. Thank you!
 
So today I was testing the ETA and I realized that the little spring that attaches to the throttle linkage at the ETA is missing. I can’t find it anywhere inside the intake so I was wondering in anyone knows the approximate size of it and where does it attach to the intake? Thanks!

9A23EED0-6EC3-419E-9CD3-C4FC43051AA0.jpeg
 
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So today I was testing the ETA and I realized that the little spring that attaches to the throttle linkage at the ETA is missing. I can’t find it anywhere inside the intake so I was wondering in anyone knows the approximate size of it and where does it attach to the intake? Thanks!

View attachment 104095

Photos of this spring are in the top end tickle thread


Your old spring might be laying in below there if your lucky. Check first then do get a replacement as it is a safety item!
 
Photos of this spring are in the top end tickle thread


Your old spring might be laying in below there if your lucky. Check first then do get a replacement as it is a safety item!
Thank you! Just finished putting the spring in its place. It has harder than expected.

Now I’m putting everything back together and I noticed that my ETA (came from a w140 with the good wire) has a metal plug which attached to nothing in my engine. The hole is full of silicone like to prevent air from coming in...

Do any of you know if it is supposed to be connected to something on my 500E or it only is for w140 m119 engines?




549D8522-1652-4A9C-9463-C56543A6162D.jpeg27291D66-E6CB-4A93-A4F5-D0FFE02A04BD.jpeg55B4A62E-803F-4D95-A23A-C4264D3D2B77.jpeg
 
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Holy CRAP! That's the wrong ETA! Someone installed an ETA from a 1992-93 300SE/SEL with M104 six-cylinder engine (which happens to use LH injection, and has the same connector as your 93 500E). I didn't realize the bolt pattern was the same - unless they drilled new holes in the manifold to make it work.

You should replace the ETA with the correct M119 unit. What you have on there now is smaller diameter and is restricting airflow. Any idea when this was installed?

:lightning: :run:
 
Not what I was expecting... I was so happy because the cable was in great condition and the ETA had passed the test to check if it was working... oh crap:relieved:

My grandpa says (he was the PO) that he has zero recollection of having the ETA replaced since he acquired the car back in 2003. We both know it was replaced at some point because of the long cable but we don’t know when... He also says that before parking the car for many years the ASR light was always off. Besides restricting air, what problems can this ETA be causing?

I guess I’ll start looking for a new ETA. This is just a little example of how incompetent most Mercedes mechanics are here in Costa Rica...
 
The M104 ETA should be electrically identical, but the center bore is smaller. I'm not surprised the engine runs ok with it, but I am surprised everything bolts up since the diameters don't match. Your MAF has a silver metal body, not black plastic, correct?

I'd contact Don Roden at RFC Electronic in Alabama, and see if he can sell you a rebuilt unit outright, without core.


Contact info at the bottom of this link, to bypass eBay:
 
The M104 ETA should be electrically identical, but the center bore is smaller. I'm not surprised the engine runs ok with it, but I am surprised everything bolts up since the diameters don't match. Your MAF has a silver metal body, not black plastic, correct?

I'd contact Don Roden at RFC Electronic in Alabama, and see if he can sell you a rebuilt unit outright, without core.


Contact info at the bottom of this link, to bypass eBay:
The ETA fits perfectly into the manifold and the MAF is the right one for my car. I’ll get into touch with Don to see if I can get a rebuilt unit.
 
The ETA fits perfectly into the manifold and the MAF is the right one for my car.
Interesting. The bolt pattern must be the same, and the MAF must be similar size at the bottom.

While you're in there, check the rubber boot which connects the ETA and MAF. It should be p/n 119-141-01-67. Part number may be visible on the rubber, on the side... as shown below. May be difficult to read the p/n, as I think it will be upside-down with the rubber part still attached to the ETA.

:detective:

1590355664509.png
 
Hi all.

I’m with the mechanic tonight and we found the following codes. Do any of you know what they are and what they mean ?

LH1: 021 oxygen sensor G3/2 signal -//-
LH1: 027 Fuel injection valves Y62 -//- ,
EFP: 096 started lockout and reversing lamp switch s16/3
EFP: 182 safety fuel shut-off switch signal for LH N3/1
EFP: 224 idle speed contact switch s29/3
ASR: 030 CAN: No reception from EFP N4/1

thanks in advance!
 
I’m with the mechanic tonight and we found the following codes. Do any of you know what they are and what they mean ? thanks in advance!
LH1: 021 oxygen sensor G3/2 signal - Oxygen sensor is faulty, OR wiring is bad (open/short), OR connector is not fully locked.
LH1: 027 Fuel injection valves Y62 - Wiring issue to one or more injectors. Has the engine harness been replaced?

EFP: 096 started lockout and reversing lamp switch s16/3 - This switch on the transmission is mis-adjusted or faulty. If not recent, replace it.
EFP: 182 safety fuel shut-off switch signal for LH N3/1 - I'm not certain, but I would fix the other issues first and see if this code returns or not.
EFP: 224 idle speed contact switch s29/3 - Switch is defective (click here) or throttle linkage mis-adjusted.

ASR: 030 - Ignore this, it's related to the EFP faults.
 
LH1: 021 oxygen sensor G3/2 signal - Oxygen sensor is faulty, OR wiring is bad (open/short), OR connector is not fully locked.
LH1: 027 Fuel injection valves Y62 - Wiring issue to one or more injectors. Has the engine harness been replaced?

EFP: 096 started lockout and reversing lamp switch s16/3 - This switch on the transmission is mis-adjusted or faulty. If not recent, replace it.
EFP: 182 safety fuel shut-off switch signal for LH N3/1 - I'm not certain, but I would fix the other issues first and see if this code returns or not.
EFP: 224 idle speed contact switch s29/3 - Switch is defective (click here) or throttle linkage mis-adjusted.

ASR: 030 - Ignore this, it's related to the EFP faults.


LH1: 021 oxygen sensor G3/2 signal - Do you know how to tell which sensor it is ? (if it happens to be more than one o2 sensor). I'm also running without cats, can that affect it?
LH1: 027 Fuel injection valves Y62 - I'm not certain that the upper harness has been replaced but I checked it and all the insulation looks like new. I do think it was replaced at some point in the past because there aren't any eco junk. However, I haven't put all the injectors connector clips because I don't know how to put them back. All connectors are connected but without the clips. Any tips on how to put the clips? And he we assume that the harness is working fine, what else can be causing this code?

As for the other codes, I'll check them and will replaced the suggested parts.

Thanks Dave!
 
There is only one O2 sensor on the E500E.

The O2 sensor is located BEFORE the cats. There is no code or other monitoring for the cats.

There is a thread where you can check the label for the date of the harness. That’s what you need to check — not only the ends of the wiring. You need to make sure the build date of the harness is 1998 or later. That also means that it would have been replaced.


The fuel injector clips where the upper harness attaches are simple electrical plugs that are pressed into place. To remove and reseat each one, there is a metal spring that you compress slightly with your fingers while you pull the plug upward. It’s easy.

Screen Shot 2020-06-07 at 6.25.49 AM.jpg Screen Shot 2020-06-07 at 6.25.58 AM.jpg
 
Everything Gerry stated above is correct. Those injector clips can be fiddly, if needed you can use needle-nose pliers to carefully pry them off, then once the connector is loose the clip will slip back into place. On installation you will feel the spring snap into place when fully locked.

Running without cats will have no effect, and will not cause any fault codes. Since the O2 sensor is upstream of the cats, the computer systems have no of knowing if cats are present or not, and the difference in backpressure (and power output) is near zero.

:pc1:
 
There is only one O2 sensor on the E500E.

The O2 sensor is located BEFORE the cats. There is no code or other monitoring for the cats.

This is great to hear! I was afraid that I would have to replace a lot of O2 sensors 😅

As for the harness, I just checked it and I can't find a readable label on it but the cables are in great shape (please see pics). Can they still be causing problems if they look fine? I know it is not the factory harness because I just checked the part number (0005454881) and it appears to be from a 93-95 w140 S500/500SEL... I just realized this and I didn't know they were compatible with the 124.036 but that explains the very long cable to the connector.

Upper harness tag.pngHarness MB part number.jpgcable insulation.jpg

The clips have been a nightmare... I can't put them back in place, I think that I might have bent them while removing them... I'll keep trying to put them back, if not I will order a new set of clips and hope they fit properly...

Thanks Gerry and Dave!!

Ps: Sorry for replying so long after both of your answers but I hadn't realized that y'all had replied to this thread...
 
The W140 harness looks like it has good insulation. It may be functionally equivalent (meaning, the electrical connections are the same) but it will be too long, AND it will not route through the firewall clamshell properly as the factory intended. A previous mechanic really got creative with this car... W140 M104 throttle body, W140 M119 engine harness...!

If you clear the LH codes, do the same codes return? Also, have you confirmed the module is definitely 100% seated? You can get all sorts of weirdness if the module is not fully seated. Some times it requires gentle tapping with a rubber mallet to fully seat.

:duck:
 
The W140 harness looks like it has good insulation. It may be functionally equivalent (meaning, the electrical connections are the same) but it will be too long, AND it will not route through the firewall clamshell properly as the factory intended. A previous mechanic really got creative with this car... W140 M104 throttle body, W140 M119 engine harness...!

It makes sense that the mechanic got creative given the fact that the w124.036 was (and still is) extremely rare here. There were only like 3-4 500E in Costa Rica (including mine) and right now mine is the only known to be on the road (according to the local MB group). There are no W124 E500 and the w140 500SEL/S500 is more common so I think that explains why the mechanic used w140 parts... On top of that, it was very difficult to order parts through another vendor other than the local stealership, and if you decided to buy part from there, they would put a special order from germany and parts would arrive in around 30 business days. It was a hassle and I'm sure it was very, very expensive. I'm so lucky that now its easy to order parts from anywhere in the world and I get them about a week later after having them shipped...


If you clear the LH codes, do the same codes return? Also, have you confirmed the module is definitely 100% seated? You can get all sorts of weirdness if the module is not fully seated. Some times it requires gentle tapping with a rubber mallet to fully seat.

When the mechanic came a couple of weeks ago the first thing he did was clear all the codes and re-read them to see which ones remained. The codes I shared were the ones that remained.

The module is seated as it should. Since I don't have a scanner yet, I will call the mechanic once I have repaired and replaced all the known failing parts causing the codes. That is all the leaks I have (I know this don't cause any code), I'll check and replace (if needed) the o2 sensor, I'll put the injector's clips back in place to make sure all connectors are fully attached, replace S16/3 trans switch, and adjust the throttle linkage to factory specs.

Once all of that is done, I'll have the mechanic scan back the car and I'll share with you the results.

Thank you!!
 
Hi All!

With y´alls help, I´ve managed to replace all the sensors that were throwing codes. The car now runs great, however, after erasing them all, I have one new code that I did not have before:

LH1 004 - Air mass sensor with hot wire B2/2 Volt. too large/small.

Any idea what that is? Do I have to replace the MAF? I have searched other threads to see if I can find some information about that code but I didn´t find anything.
 
That code does seem to imply the MAF is defective. Does the car run & drive normally? Is it any better or worse with the MAF disconnected?
 
Hi All!

With y´alls help, I´ve managed to replace all the sensors that were throwing codes. The car now runs great, however, after erasing them all, I have one new code that I did not have before:

LH1 004 - Air mass sensor with hot wire B2/2 Volt. too large/small.

Any idea what that is? Do I have to replace the MAF? I have searched other threads to see if I can find some information about that code but I didn´t find anything.
Any update on this? My recommendation would be to get the car on a Star C3 or equivalent system that shows the live data from the MAF, and see what it is reading. That will quickly tell you whether the MAF is bad or not.
 
Any update on this? My recommendation would be to get the car on a Star C3 or equivalent system that shows the live data from the MAF, and see what it is reading. That will quickly tell you whether the MAF is bad or not.
Hi @gerryvz!

I had an old MAF sensor in storage so I decided to replace it. Now the car drives better and there aren't any codes. Since I did not throw away the MAF that was giving me the code, I'll try what you suggest to see if the MAF is bad or not.

Right now I only have two problems regarding idling/acceleration. When the car is cold it idles fine (around 700 RPMs), however, as the engine warms up the RPMs increase all the way up to 1000-1100 RPM when in neutral/parking and there are no codes showing up. In drive the idle is always around 600 RPMs which I think is right about where it should be. The ASR light is also on. I got all new sensors around the engine + new spark plugs, distributor caps, rotors, etc.

Thanks everyone!!
 
The high idle RPM is a major problem. It could be as simple as a vacuum leak (try a smoke test of the intake manifold), or it could be related to the ARS light on. The E-GAS module controls idle speed, which should be 650rpm in P/N when hot.

What fault codes are appearing now? You should also try to fix the ASR light on. I'm assuming the car is not in limp mode, and throttle response is normal.
 
The high idle RPM is a major problem. It could be as simple as a vacuum leak (try a smoke test of the intake manifold), or it could be related to the ARS light on. The E-GAS module controls idle speed, which should be 650rpm in P/N when hot.

What fault codes are appearing now? You should also try to fix the ASR light on. I'm assuming the car is not in limp mode, and throttle response is normal.
There are no fault codes now. I replaced the ASR position sensor by the accelerator pedal and the throttle response is normal if you don´t floor it. If you floor the car it feels like its lacking power and it doesn´t accelerate as fast as it should. However, if you drive normally the car will have a very good throttle response. The car is not in limp mode.
 
It would be very unusual to have the ASR light on, with no fault codes. However, it would not hurt to pull the instrument cluster and verify the bulbs are all in the proper location (numbered 1 through 5). It's possible a bulb is in the wrong socket.

I would focus on correcting the idle speed first. When that is resolved, then chase down the lack of power under load.

:klink:
 
It would be very unusual to have the ASR light on, with no fault codes. However, it would not hurt to pull the instrument cluster and verify the bulbs are all in the proper location (numbered 1 through 5). It's possible a bulb is in the wrong socket.

I would focus on correcting the idle speed first. When that is resolved, then chase down the lack of power under load.

:klink:
I´ll check the bulbs and the scanner connector plug pins to see if they are all fine because the only code I had before was the one regarding the MAF and the ASR light was always on.
 
Hello all!

I haven´t posted in this thread for a while but little by little I have fixed a lot of issues with my car by reading other threads. I am currently solving the ASR light issue but I have another thread for that. T

This time the question I have is what is the purpose of this ceramic resistor? By reading other threads, I know its related to the cooling system but I can´t figure out what it does exactly. After changing almost all components of the cooling system, I get temperatures of more than +110 with AC on on stand-still traffic so I am trying to sort out everything I can. Can anyone please tell me what this resistor does?

WhatsApp Image 2022-06-17 at 1.57.33 PM.jpeg

At the same time, can I fix it or should I replace it?

Thank you!
 
That is the resistor for the twin auxiliary fan low speed. The resistor itself may be ok, if your fans are running on low speed, but it looks pretty scorched in your photo. You should remove or perforate the metal shield over the resistor to increase airflow to it, which will help prevent further heat damage. The one wire often breaks from heat and requires repair. Search the forum for more details on this.

If your engine temp is 110°C sitting in traffic with the AC on, first make sure the fans are running on low speed on warm days with AC running, and then verify the fans kick on high speed when you hit 107°C. If not, troubleshoot those and get both high & low speeds working correctly. Lots of info on the forum on this topic, it's a common problem.

If the fans are working correctly and you STILL have 110°C engine temps, you may have other problems with the cooling system. This is on the very high side of normal, even for tropical Costa Rrrrrica.

:watermelon:
 

@pablo2696, Have you checked the fan clutch? If it’s not working properly temps will rise in traffic. I had the same problem and a new ACM fan clutch SOLVED the problem.

With the engine SHUT OFF try turning the cooling fan. If it turns freely it probably needs replacement.

Note: The MB fan clutch is NLA so you would need an aftermarket brand like ACM (or another brand) and a shorter bolt. Also the ACM clutch may not be available. I think there are other brands available but someone else will have to recommend one.

Good Luck
 

@pablo2696, Have you checked the fan clutch? If it’s not working properly temps will rise in traffic. I had the same problem and a new ACM fan clutch SOLVED the problem.

With the engine SHUT OFF try turning the cooling fan. If it turns freely it probably needs replacement.

Note: The MB fan clutch is NLA so you would need an aftermarket brand like ACM (or another brand) and a shorter bolt. Also the ACM clutch may not be available. I think there are other brands available but someone else will have to recommend one.

Good Luck
I replaced the fan clutch because the old was wasn´t working and the new one is working. Before replacing it the engine temp would rise to +100C very quickly in fluid traffic if using the A/C.

Now, unless I am sitting in traffic with A/C on, the temp will stay around 90C. There are a few things that I still need to do before replacing parts and these are: bleeding the cooling system correctly, make sure fans are working on low speed with A/C on as @gsxr suggested, cleaning the resistor, and cleaning the condenser's fins with compressed air.

I´ll let you all know how it went after doing all of this.

Thank you!
 
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