Yup! You can do the same modification on the wagon LCA's. A good welder could duplicate the RDM TEK modification.
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Group Buy --- RDM Tek shortened LCA's for lowered 500E's
- Thread starter Silver Arrow
- Start date
I have had them on three of my cars for several years now. What conclusion were you looking for that hasn't been discussed earlier in this thread...?
A reminder, shortened LCAs are not the only path to fixing extreme negative camber for a lowered car.
Having assembled my own adjustable camber links to replace the fixed-length factory OEM camber links I am happy to report my solution is working out very well. I have no squeaks, a firm, controlled, but compliant ride (I changed out all of the links in the rear suspension, including the LCAs with Lemforder or Genuine MBZ) and adjusted out the extreme negative camber. I've got my rear camber adjusted to -1.2 to -1.5 at ride height (the ride height varies with fuel load). Though broad in application, the bushings used in the rod ends and links are intended to be used on 3 and 4 link suspensions, so I suspect they'll wear properly and are quite robust.
The adjustable camber links cost me about $100 to build with off-the-shelf parts from hot rod supply shop Speedway.
They may be a very good alternative to the RDMtek shortened LCAs. With RDMtek LCAs, it is required to still solve the issue of adjusting toe (the factory adjusters don't offer the necessary range).
I will post a link to the thread where I documented the camber link install.
Doug
Having assembled my own adjustable camber links to replace the fixed-length factory OEM camber links I am happy to report my solution is working out very well. I have no squeaks, a firm, controlled, but compliant ride (I changed out all of the links in the rear suspension, including the LCAs with Lemforder or Genuine MBZ) and adjusted out the extreme negative camber. I've got my rear camber adjusted to -1.2 to -1.5 at ride height (the ride height varies with fuel load). Though broad in application, the bushings used in the rod ends and links are intended to be used on 3 and 4 link suspensions, so I suspect they'll wear properly and are quite robust.
The adjustable camber links cost me about $100 to build with off-the-shelf parts from hot rod supply shop Speedway.
They may be a very good alternative to the RDMtek shortened LCAs. With RDMtek LCAs, it is required to still solve the issue of adjusting toe (the factory adjusters don't offer the necessary range).
I will post a link to the thread where I documented the camber link install.
Doug
Hi Borring-
This may solve your problem simpler and cheaper: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/show...links+speedway
Doug
I had the same set up as temporary measure before I got my shortened LCA. It works well. So, the shortened LCA is still in the box. I am thinking of installing it to my SL instead of disturbing the 500E's set up.
I have now requested speedwaymortors of a shipping estimate to Denmark.
Check your local speed shop or auto supplies. Speedway Motor's camber arms are made of universal parts. You may be able to find similar components in your area to build your own adjustable camber arms.
I would advise NOT putting the RDMTEK LCAs on your car unless you are modifying the tie rods at the same time. My factory tie rods were at their max inward adjustment when I installed my RDMTEKs and my car shredded a brand new pair of tires faster than I could get to an alignment shop. It was worse than before I installed them.
After modifying my tie rods ala Glen, all is well and my alignment can be brought into spec.
After modifying my tie rods ala Glen, all is well and my alignment can be brought into spec.
I have a question on this, and I am asking with an honest, straight face. My understanding is that tie rods are part of the steering mechanism, on the front of the car. THe RDMtek LCAs (at least the ones that I had commissioned through Austin's dad, last year) are part of the rear suspension, to help with camber adjustment to avoid wear on the inside of the rear tires.
How does a tie rod adjustment on the front suspension, directly affect the overall geometry and camber (and associated wear) at the rear tires? Is there a correlation on this? Are there adjustable tie rods on the rear suspension?
Cheers,
Gerry
Do anyone know this company MB arts?
Adjustable rear camber arms (W124)
http://mbartsperformance.com/MBA-124-ARCA.html
Adjustable rear camber arms (W124)
http://mbartsperformance.com/MBA-124-ARCA.html
FYI
The PN is 210-350-21-35, but on my SuperMerc it is 210-350-17-53, a PN upgrade/merge maybe?
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Hi Dan.
I guess my life with welding & materials in the oil & gas and jet engine business have made me oversensitive about quality on car parts. However, I want to post a warning about suspension parts from various "expert vendors". They all have good looking parts, but the quality may vary. Most of them have no documentation on the material properties in the Heim joints or the bars/tube material. And they give no garanties except from providing a new part if it breaks.
I was for some time participating in a indoor Go Kart rental business, and the most replaced parts were the Heim joints on the steering links. The quality and promissed strength was really various! So I would ask specifically about the material quality in the Heim joints, regardless whether they are provided with a ball/swivel bushing or rigid bushing.
The camber arms Doug has made do at least say "forged steel" on the Heim joints, see post #3;
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...ear-adjustable-camber-links&p=40374#post40374
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Still waiting for a reply from speedway..... The problem is Denmark is so small (like Norway) so we are depending on parts from the outside. I normally buy from Germany (then there is no extra taxes and shipping is cheap), but I'm not good at German, so I need to relay on specific parts numbers which is not easy in a custom setup. Right now I feel custom camber arms is the way to go (more easy than cutting 5mm of the LCA) I have also considered the K-MAC setup, but I'm not sure it will give me enough play, and the ship/tax from AU is soo expensive.
the camber links I assembled look just like those in the lower right quadrant of the picture provided by Arnt.The camber arms Doug has made do at least say "forged steel" on the Heim joints, see post #3;
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...ear-adjustable-camber-links&p=40374#post40374
There isn't much to break. If the bushing fails, I do not think the steel end will fail. So a noise will be obvious. I believe the rod itself is made of forged AL. it certainly has a large wall thickness (3/16" or so) and the steel rod end threads very deep into the ends of the rod (1 1/2" on each end at the shortest overall length).
Makes me wonder what condition my heims are in since I am getting some noise back there....
Glen had the right answer. Some call them tie-rods on the rear of the car as well, although toe-link is more appropriate.
As a further explanation, imagine the links of our setup in question; LCA and Toe-Link. Hold out your hand vertically to represent the wheel. Now use your index finger from the other hand to represent the toe-link and hold it 90 degrees against your palm (aka tire). Now imagine your middle finger is your LCA, and hold it below and to the center of your hand relative to the index. You install a shorter LCA and to represent this, angle the bottom of your hand inward at the point of your middle finger. Of course, the center rotation axis of the tire cannot move inward due to the driveshaft, and neither can the forward portion due to the toe-link. So what must happen? The rear and lower portions of the tire will. Great for camber correction, bad for toe.
