Help!! 94 E420 ... Idle, Shut off, No Power

[Green_E420]

If someone can point me to the right direction. I have purchased a 94" e-420 with ASR and 66k miles all original. The person before me gave up trying to get the car to run right, its been a month or so I'm tinkering with it.

Car starts up great cold, idles fine. The bad ... it's slow to go anywhere, it takes forever to go down a 1/4 mile. It does not sound like misfiring, just very poor throttle response. After 10min starts idling bad, backfires for no reason, gets progressively worse and shuts off and smoke comes out of the intake. Go to try to start it but just cranks until the engine is cold.

**Replaced***
Bosch Caps, Rotors, Insulators
Checked Cam Seals
Checked Cats
Rebuilt ETA and harness with Victor at Restore
Checked Upper Harness Delphi 2011
Spark Plug Wires look recently replaced
Checked FPR at Idle 50psi

Codes as follow

PIN 4 = No Codes

PIN 6 = Code 21 ABS/ASR hydraulic unit, pressure switch (A7/3s1), charge (ASR pump might just need to be cleaned)

PIN 7 = Code 14 (Closed throttle position switch (S29/3)). I messed with the throttle linkage cleared code and has not come back.

PIN 8 = No Codes

PIN 17 = Code 17 (CPS). Previous owner replaced with bogus brand, replaced with Bosch and cleared code and has not come back.

PIN 19 = Code 6 Idle speed control inoperative and Code 17 Data exchange malfunction between individual control modules. (Not sure where else to look for since I replaced the ETA and Harness.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Kyiv]

Have you tried swapping EZL? Are both coils original?

 

[gsxr]

That will be difficult to diagnose without live data. Are any dash lights on? Also, are the codes all gone now on pins 7, 17, and 19?

For grins, try disconnecting the MAF and test drive. If there's no change, the MAF may be ok.

How did you test the cats? Are the fuel pumps original? How old is the fuel filter? These can cause low power without misfiring.

Misfiring / backfiring likely indicates ignition problems. What brand spark plug wires, and have you measured the resistance of all 10 (don't forget the coil wires)? Spark pugs non-resistor F8DC4 gapped at 1.0mm (wider than stock)?

 

[Green_E420]

Have you tried swapping EZL? Are both coils original?

I have not tried this, this was actually my next step. I didn’t want to throw more money. I have not swapped coils.

If there is a way to test the ezl or coils that would be good start.

 

[gsxr]

The EZL generally either works or it doesn't, but also make sure there is vacuum present with the engine running. At idle, remove the vac hose and feel for vac with your finger. When you re-connect the hose to the EZL, the engine RPM should change briefly.

Coils are hard to test without either viewing live data from a digital scanner, or just installing new Bosch (~$160/pair or so). With low miles I'd be surprised if the coils are bad.

Check the other stuff I listed above... measure the wires, check the plug type & gap, and test with MAF disconnected.

 

[Green_E420]

That will be difficult to diagnose without live data. Are any dash lights on? Also, are the codes all gone now on pins 7, 17, and 19?

For grins, try disconnecting the MAF and test drive. If there's no change, the MAF may be ok.

How did you test the cats? Are the fuel pumps original? How old is the fuel filter? These can cause low power without misfiring.

Misfiring / backfiring likely indicates ignition problems. What brand spark plug wires, and have you measured the resistance of all 10 (don't forget the coil wires)? Spark pugs non-resistor F8DC4 gapped at 1.0mm (wider than stock)?

That will be difficult to diagnose without live data. Are any dash lights on? Also, are the codes all gone now on pins 7, 17, and 19?

For grins, try disconnecting the MAF and test drive. If there's no change, the MAF may be ok.

How did you test the cats? Are the fuel pumps original? How old is the fuel filter? These can cause low power without misfiring.

Misfiring / backfiring likely indicates ignition problems. What brand spark plug wires, and have you measured the resistance of all 10 (don't forget the coil wires)? Spark pugs non-resistor F8DC4 gapped at 1.0mm (wider than stock)?

Just pin 6 and 19 keeps coming back. I will try disconnecting the MAF and go for a ride. I disconnected the entire exhaust and all good, the previous owner did put aftermarket cats on the car but nothing wrong with them.

Did not touch the fuel pumps nor the fuel filter. I have a gauge hooked up at the rail and its consistent near 50psi. When it starts idling bad after 10min or so and sounds like its about to shut off, the gauge is still at 50. This is why I believe it's not the fuel pumps. The pumps are still throwing fuel.

It runs fine after 10min the idle starts getting hiccups and im getting pop sounds out of the exhaust (open exhaust). The ignition cables look brand new, not sure of the brand but they look OEM I will have to double check. The previous owner had a receipt in the glove box for OEM plug and wires recently. This is why I skipped them, however the cables going to the coils look different now that you mentioned this.

Would the ignition coil act up after getting warm?

Guys, thank you. It's a shame because it has 66k miles, I figured its something dumb and previous owner neglected. I really don't want to take it to a INDY shop and come back with a $3000 bill because they threw parts at it until they figured it out. In that case i'd do it myself.

 

[Green_E420]

The EZL generally either works or it doesn't, but also make sure there is vacuum present with the engine running. At idle, remove the vac hose and feel for vac with your finger. When you re-connect the hose to the EZL, the engine RPM should change briefly.

Coils are hard to test without either viewing live data from a digital scanner, or just installing new Bosch (~$160/pair or so). With low miles I'd be surprised if the coils are bad.

Check the other stuff I listed above... measure the wires, check the plug type & gap, and test with MAF disconnected.

Last night I checked the vacuum from the back of the intake manifold to the ezl, the two on top of the intake manifold, and the transmission vacuum all good. There was a leak somewhere inside the EVAP on the passenger side.

I hooked up a vacuum gauge last night at the intake manifold and noticed the vacuum was sitting at 15 indicating a late ign timing. The gauge says for a proper vacuum to be between 20 and 25. This is another reason I suspect now there is a ignition issue.

 

[gsxr]

Bad fuel pumps can provide full pressure when parked, but cannot supply fuel volume under load. You can't check this without having a gauge visible while driving. The symptom is low power under load (may be intermittent), but will NOT cause misfiring.

Coils could act up when warm (same with any electrical item).

Ignore the gauge claim that 20-25" vacuum is what you need to see. It may not be the same on the M119. Need a good-running M119 for comparison. The misfiring is an ignition issue, but don't start chasing timing issues, which are likely a red herring.

The wires need to be measured with an ohm meter... tedious work. Should be 1800-2400 ohms for the 8 plug wires and zero ohms for the 2 coil wires. You can also pull the new rotors and visually inspect for carbon tracking; there should be none with new parts (and if not misfiring).

 

[Kyiv]

If there is a way to test the ezl or coils that would be good start.

Try this:

To test, disconnect 1 coil wire at a time. If 4 cylinders are not firing, with one disconnected the engine won't start at all, with the other it will run the same as with both connected. If that is the case, you then get to figure out if it's control (EZL) or secondary ignition.

More in this thread: 95 E420 Quarantine Project Needs Help! | Member Roadtrips and Project Journals

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Would the ignition coil act up after getting warm?

In my case that's how it was

 

[Green_E420]

Guys,

Again thank you for all your input. I will try all your steps, I'm currently working on the car back and forth. Just went for a ride after vac. checks same symptoms. No misfire, runs fine at idle. Floor it and no power just very slow.

I noticed I can't clear Pin 19 at all. DM Module both codes 6 and 17 stay. Could it be the DM module that went bad? Is there a way to test this? The previous owner drove with a really bad ETA. When I pulled the wires sheeting the wires were exposed and all cracked. I'm thinking if this shorted the DM module. I should be able to clear the codes, why wouldn't I be able to clear those two codes.

Codes come back Code 6 = Idle Speed Control. Test EA (ETA was rebuilt and tested by Victor at RestoreMercedes)
Code 17 = Data Exchange Malfunction between individual control modules.

 

[gsxr]

Again thank you for all your input. I will try all your steps, I'm currently working on the car back and forth. Just went for a ride after vac. checks same symptoms. No misfire, runs fine at idle. Floor it and no power just very slow.

no power just very slow (no misfiring) can be fuel starvation under load, from failing pumps, clogged filter, or tank strainer. If it's intermittent (sometimes you can get normal power) it's not the filter or strainer. Could be other things too, but 30 year old fuel pumps are generally due for replacement...

I noticed I can't clear Pin 19 at all. DM Module both codes 6 and 17 stay. Could it be the DM module that went bad? Is there a way to test this? The previous owner drove with a really bad ETA. When I pulled the wires sheeting the wires were exposed and all cracked. I'm thinking if this shorted the DM module. I should be able to clear the codes, why wouldn't I be able to clear those two codes.

Codes come back Code 6 = Idle Speed Control. Test EA (ETA was rebuilt and tested by Victor at RestoreMercedes)
Code 17 = Data Exchange Malfunction between individual control modules.

Pin 19 (DM) needs to have the ignition cycled / engine started after clearing, for the codes to actually clear and CEL to turn off. Code 17 should be accompanied by a CAN data fault code on some other module. The DM can be disconnected, it's just a watchdog module and turns the CEL on to scare the driver when emissions-related faults occur. It isn't needed for engine operation, but also CAN NOT cause low power or misfiring.

Significant power loss with the engine smooth, is likely a different issue than your misfiring problems.

 

[Kyiv]

Do try to eliminate coils as the culprit, by unplugging each one and seeing what effect it'll have. At the very least, you'll cross out one of the possibilities

 

[Green_E420]

no power just very slow (no misfiring) can be fuel starvation under load, from failing pumps, clogged filter, or tank strainer. If it's intermittent (sometimes you can get normal power) it's not the filter or strainer. Could be other things too, but 30 year old fuel pumps are generally due for replacement...

The only reason I don't think its the pumps is because i'm getting 50psi at all times even when its about to turn off, the fpr is still at 50psi.

Pin 19 (DM) needs to have the ignition cycled / engine started after clearing, for the codes to actually clear and CEL to turn off. Code 17 should be accompanied by a CAN data fault code on some other module. The DM can be disconnected, it's just a watchdog module and turns the CEL on to scare the driver when emissions-related faults occur. It isn't needed for engine operation, but also CAN NOT cause low power or misfiring.

Significant power loss with the engine smooth, is likely a different issue than your misfiring problems.

Thank you for clearing that up, most likely I can ignore the DM module. I'm aware that its just a watch dog now.

I might start with the ignition plugs, cables, and coil replacements.

 

[Green_E420]

Do try to eliminate coils as the culprit, by unplugging each one and seeing what effect it'll have. At the very least, you'll cross out one of the possibilities

Just bought a pair of hose pliers and going to attempt to remove the wires and check resistence.... but since i'm removing wires, I might as well put new plugs even tho the previous owner had done them.

I'll go as far as replacing the ignition coils.... (hoping this is the culprit)

Once again guys thank you for all the input.... i've only owned a few w124 diesels and a deal came across for a e-420 with low mileage and couldn't pass it up.... My first gas w124 and v8 car too.

 

[gsxr]

The only reason I don't think its the pumps is because i'm getting 50psi at all times even when its about to turn off, the fpr is still at 50psi.

Remember that it's easy for the pumps to push 50psi with no load. But under load, the pumps can't provide 50psi with the increased volume. The only way to test is to view fuel pressure while driving, but most people can't do that.

Remind me again, do you ever get normal power, or is it always gutless under load, when smooth / not misfiring?

 

[Green_E420]

Gutless under load always.

You know what, I might try this tomorrow, I think the hose is long enough. I'd hate to remove the hood, just to have the hose sticking out while driving.... but anything to get it running great would be awesome at this time.

 

[gsxr]

I temporarily connect an external fuel pressure gauge with 4' of #4 AN braided hose, which works great. But it will cost almost as much as buying two new fuel pumps. Unfortunately, I never got video of what this setup displays under load with a bad pump...

 

[Green_E420]

That's nice! Even a used cheap gauge to have for these purposes is always good

I got the fuel pressure gauge test kit rental from autozone on. I think the line is prob long enough to reach the windshield... won't be able to test this today as I got more snow coming down in my area.

 

[frall]

The intake air sensor A0095426817 (located on the driver side behind the left driving lights) can cause these problems too. It's a cheap replacement.

 

[Kyiv]

The intake air sensor A0095426817 (located on the driver side behind the left driving lights) can cause these problems too. It's a cheap replacement.

I had it fail on my car before. It caused a CEL and retarded ignition as if the ambient temperature was 120F and coolant temp 115C, but the car drove and RPM gain was otherwise completely normal

 

[Green_E420]

I had it fail on my car before. It caused a CEL and retarded ignition as if the ambient temperature was 120F and coolant temp 115C, but the car drove and RPM gain was otherwise completely normal

This is what I feel, a severe ignition retart. But I have no CEL besides a cheap cps that was put in. I really don't want to spend money on ignition coils but not sure where else to check.

 

[Kyiv]

This is what I feel, a severe ignition retart. But I have no CEL besides a cheap cps that was put in. I really don't want to spend money on ignition coils but not sure where else to check.

My car drove fine, just with what felt like it had 75 less horsepower. There was also a code present in DM module indicating an issue with air temperature sensor. Does your CEL illuminates song with other lights, when ignition is switched on?

Is there an unburned fuel smell?

 

[frall]

This is what I feel, a severe ignition retart. But I have no CEL besides a cheap cps that was put in. I really don't want to spend money on ignition coils but not sure where else to check.

You can disconnect the IAS and try without the sensor.
Or buy a new one for about 20 €. The exchange is easy.
On my car there is no CEL with a defective or disconnected IAS. Only the error code after runnig the motor with disconnected sensor.

 

[Green_E420]

***Update***

I was not able to drive the car because of the snow. However I was able to work on it in the Garage. I removed the Drivers Side Headlight and broke the top clip and another clip for the wiper headlight hose. (Hopefully I can replace them if available)

I was able to remove the ignition coils and noticed two coils are different brands. I suspect the one with Label R is the original that was not replaced in almost 30 years with a date of 1993 , and the other one labelled L was a Bosch that looks like it was replaced not to long ago. I'm hoping that this is the issue!

We'll report back!

 

[Green_E420]

Update

Swapped Coils with New Bosch
Same Symptoms or Worse

Run and sounds horrible shut it off after 5 min turn it back on and it wont even start up.

Unplugged, Coolant Temps nothing changes while running
Unplug Mass Air Flow and Idle goes up and down.

Going to have to check fuel pumps, plugs and wires.... run a compression test.

Last maybe timing is off.

 

[gsxr]

Timing can't really be "off", it's all fixed timing maps.

For grins, when it's running poorly, what happens if you disconnect one ignition coil? If it runs the same with 1 disconnected, and won't run at all with the other disconnected, that narrows it down to one distributor or the other. If it sometimes runs smoothly on all 8 cylinders, the EZL should be ok (or at least, not cause the drastic issue you describe).

Fuel pumps won't cause rough idle or no-start, assuming you are measuring 50psi at the rail with the car parked/idling.

Definitely time to pull all 8 plugs, see what they look like, and what type/number was last installed.

Compression test wouldn't hurt, but make sure to either disconnect the EZL if using the key to crank, or use a remote start trigger as the FSM recommends.

 

[Green_E420]

Timing can't really be "off", it's all fixed timing maps.

For grins, when it's running poorly, what happens if you disconnect one ignition coil? If it runs the same with 1 disconnected, and won't run at all with the other disconnected, that narrows it down to one distributor or the other. If it sometimes runs smoothly on all 8 cylinders, the EZL should be ok (or at least, not cause the drastic issue you describe).

Fuel pumps won't cause rough idle or no-start, assuming you are measuring 50psi at the rail with the car parked/idling.

Definitely time to pull all 8 plugs, see what they look like, and what type/number was last installed.

Compression test wouldn't hurt, but make sure to either disconnect the EZL if using the key to crank, or use a remote start trigger as the FSM recommends.

1. When I meant timing (engine timing, maybe skipped a tooth).

2. Haven't got there yet, but will try it tomorrow and see what happens

3. I skipped the Fuel Pumps because yes, i measure 50psi at the rail when the car is parked/idling. Now here is something weird when I rev the engine, the fuel pressure jumps to 55psi and then as soon as I left off the accelerator it goes to 40 and then back to 50.

4. Looks like i'm pulling all 8 plugs tomorrow (receipt in the car shows they were recently bought from the dealer, maybe gapped wrong? I'll def let you know the number. Will also check resistance on every wire. Also run a compression test.

5. Will do that on the compression test.

Also Just to let you know, it cooled down, restarted the car for 5min idle's fine just loud because I have no exhaust before the cat's, if I shut it off and try to start it will sit there and crank and try to catch it self after a couple cranks then it will start running really rough and loud back fires...... just got a huge flame from under the car ... I shut it off completely now...

Thank you so much for all the help, you're all over this forums even on the diesels. Tomorrow I'll try those steps.

 

[Kyiv]

I wonder how new coils could make the situation worse...

 

[gsxr]

Camshaft timing shouldn't cause what you describe, and if it's only 1 tooth off, the engine can still run quite well (don't ask how I know). If it idles smoothly for any amount of time, it's even less likely the cam timing is off (or that there's a compression issue).

If after cooling down it re-starts and idles ok for a short time , that eliminates a few possibilities. Fuel pressure sounds normal.

Something else to check: Measure the crank sensor resistance at the connector at the EZL, the smaller round one, coaxial. Should be around 900 ohms. Next time the car heats up and refuses to start, measure it again. I still think you may have some other ignition issues here (wires or plugs, since everything else is new) but the crank sensor can cause some weird stuff. What brand wires, and are the plug boots orange plastic or metal 90° style?

I hate to bring this up, but it's also possible you have some defective brand-new ignition components. More than one person has encountered this and it's a RPITA to diagnose. Where did you buy those Bosch caps/rotors?

 

[Green_E420]

Camshaft timing shouldn't cause what you describe, and if it's only 1 tooth off, the engine can still run quite well (don't ask how I know). If it idles smoothly for any amount of time, it's even less likely the cam timing is off (or that there's a compression issue).

If after cooling down it re-starts and idles ok for a short time , that eliminates a few possibilities. Fuel pressure sounds normal.

Something else to check: Measure the crank sensor resistance at the connector at the EZL, the smaller round one, coaxial. Should be around 900 ohms. Next time the car heats up and refuses to start, measure it again. I still think you may have some other ignition issues here (wires or plugs, since everything else is new) but the crank sensor can cause some weird stuff. What brand wires, and are the plug boots orange plastic or metal 90° style?

I hate to bring this up, but it's also possible you have some defective brand-new ignition components. More than one person has encountered this and it's a RPITA to diagnose. Where did you buy those Bosch caps/rotors?

Went through two CPS. One was a bogus CPS that looked new, I’m assuming the previous owner tried to get it to run and threw a aftermarket on it.

I ordered a Bosch CPS and the light went away after cleared.

just ordered 8 plugs F8DC4, picking those up today.... what’s a preferable gap?

will check resistance on every wire one by one.

I ordered the ignition parts from FCP Euro, mostly all my stuff is from them... I’m in NJ... they’re in CT so most of the stuff comes next day if not the day after.

 

[gsxr]

F8DC4 are correct, preferred gap is 1.0mm (larger than 0.8mm spec).

FCP should be selling Genuine Bosch parts, so that is good news. However you *may* still be dealing with a new defective component. This is going to be difficult to diagnose unless you can find a smoking gun.

If you had a digital scanner (i.e., SDS) you could view ignition voltages on each cylinder, and figure out which cylinders are causing problems. But that's a $500+ investment... worth it if you plan to keep this car long term, and/or own other MB's from the early 90's or newer with electronic injection. It can pay for itself in the long run.

 

[Green_E420]

I might have friends who have tools.... I was gonna smoke it after plugs and wires funny you mentioned that! Lol

yes the equipment can get expensive!!

 

[Kyiv]

@gsxr actually had a defective distributor (correct if I'm wrong, Dave). I'll suggest an unethical thing - but hey, I'm from a 2nd/3rd world country, so that's my excuse - order another pair of distributors and rotors from FCP, for troubleshooting purposes, and then just return them when done. Just a suggestion . FCP is not a mom and pop place, they won't feel it or lay off someone

 

[gsxr]

Yep, I had a new Bosch cap that was defective out of the box. But the symptoms were milder... would misfire on 1-2 cylinders at idle only when hot. Above idle it was fine, and warming up it was fine. Drove me crazy trying to figure that one out. I mean, the brand new Bosch cap couldn't possibly be defective...



If you can pinpoint the issue to one distributor or the other, you can swap parts left to right and see if the problem follows a particular part (i.e., cap or rotor; assuming the plugs + wires check out ok). Again, when the problem occurs (runs terrible or won't start), disconnect one cap at a time and see what happens. When the "bad" one is disconnected, it should start & run on 4 cylinders.

 

[gerryvz]

just ordered 8 plugs F8DC4, picking those up today.... what’s a preferable gap?

 

[Green_E420]

Update

Alright so here goes, first let me state I sort of feel I have to apologize to everyone as I noticed replacing the plugs and wires, the wiring were not in the correct firing order. Don't ask me how the car still turned on and ran. Previous Owner had receipt for plugs and wires. I assumed they placed them in the correct order. This should of been checked first, I assumed they were correct and copied when I replaced the caps and rotors .

I corrected the firing order. If someone can verify, I went by the injector labels

Right Side = Passenger Side
4
3
2
1 (Closest to Radiator)

Left Side = Driver Side
8
7
6
5 (Closest to Radiator)

I corrected the wiring, started it up, right away I saw the Vacuum gauge sit at Normal Operating instead of Late Ign Timing it was showing.

Anyway car is still misfiring .

Removed all the wires (Wires are Bosch) checked resistance and its all over the place sits at 2.0 then 0.03.... Also one seems to be a little melted but not all the way through.

Removed all the plugs (Mercedes Symbol F8DC3 (Germany) 4 out of 8 are black and had 2 out of 8 had some gas on it (Running Rich?)

Did a compression test 1 by 1.

Cylinder 1 = 180
Cylinder 2 = 190
Cylinder 3 = 185
Cylinder 4 = 190
Cylinder 5 = 170
Cylinder 6 = 180
Cylinder 7 = 195
Cylinder 8 = 185

Replaced with new spark plugs Bosch FD8C4 (Made In Russia), gapped at 1.0. They were the ones the auto parts store had in stock. Also tried to obtain wiring but they only had one brand (Pecan? Pecon?) can't quite remember, trying to avoid aftermarket. I just did a search and see Bosch is not available anymore. My wires will be replaced next.

 

[Kyiv]

Well, that's good news that you found the issue.

Right Side = Passenger Side
4
3
2
1 (Closest to Radiator)

Left Side = Driver Side
8
7
6
5 (Closest to Radiator)

This is correct. Distributor caps are numbered too.

 

[gsxr]

Compression looks good. Cylinder 5 is a hair low but not enough to cause problems, and if you re-tested you might find it's a bit higher. Russian F8DC4 gapped to 1.0mm is perfect.

The bare wires should measure zero ohms if unscrewed from the the orange plastic boots/suppressors. The orange suppressor should measure around 1800-2400 ohms but it's a little tricky getting the meter leads on each end. Can you tell what brand the wires are, and/or the brand of the boots/suppressors on each end?

If you can wait a few days, you might want to get the Beru set shown here, $206 plus tax, free shipping:

FYI - Beru spark plug wire set ZEF-635 | M119 Engine

Hi guys, I had been chasing a misfire on my 93' 500E for a month. I had replaced spark plugs, caps, rotors, and insulators behind the rotors thinking it might have been moisture build up behind the cap. Car ran fine cold, BUT would misfire as soon as it reached operating temperature. Then, I...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Green_E420]

Compression looks good. Cylinder 5 is a hair low but not enough to cause problems, and if you re-tested you might find it's a bit higher. Russian F8DC4 gapped to 1.0mm is perfect.

The bare wires should measure zero ohms if unscrewed from the the orange plastic boots/suppressors. The orange suppressor should measure around 1800-2400 ohms but it's houa little tricky getting the meter leads on each end. Can you tell what brand the wires are, and/or the brand of the boots/suppressors on each end?

If you can wait a few days, you might want to get the Beru set shown here, $206 plus tax, free shipping:

FYI - Beru spark plug wire set ZEF-635 | M119 Engine

Hi guys, I had been chasing a misfire on my 93' 500E for a month. I had replaced spark plugs, caps, rotors, and insulators behind the rotors thinking it might have been moisture build up behind the cap. Car ran fine cold, BUT would misfire as soon as it reached operating temperature. Then, I...

www.500eboard.co

I only checked the ohms by un-screwwing the plastic boosts/supressors. Even tho some of the wiring had a little bit of rubber melted, I figured i'd order new ones

Thanks! Ordered a set of BERU from parts geek for $206 last Saturday.

Really hoping this will finally resolve the problem!!!

 

[Green_E420]

Update,

Replaced with BERU Spark Plug Wires. Parts geek had it listed for a e-420 but says 400sel on the package. All the wires plugged in fine, it seemed like two of them were just a little longer then usual. Turned the car on and what a difference right away. Now it really sounds like a V8. Let it warm up for a few took it for a spin, even spun a little bit of the tires (was not expecting the throttle sensitive). Now I finally got power and the car feels alive!!!!!!

Vacuum Gauge hooked up at idle reads about 20hg (Gauge Now States Normal)
Fuel Pressure 50psi, taped it on the windshield and is holding steady while driving (50-55psi)

I want to thank all of you guys for helping me!!!!

Now some hiccups..... After a good 2min the ASR light comes on, I have to see what this is about. The codes comes up for Code 21. I searched and someone said to take out the pump clean it and place it back.

When I took off once, I felt it bog out and come back on right way, but it only happened once. I don't have the intake box nor the exhaust before the cat's... maybe its a good idea to put them back in lol

The exhaust has seen better days. Maybe its time to throw a custom exhaust with a Magnaflow or Borla custom piping. I measured the tips and they were about 2 inches. Should I go with 2.25 on each side of the engine? TIA

Also will be replacing the thermostat and coolant over the weekend, since the car sat for a while. Does anyone know if the thermostat is on the top of the housing or on the side? TIA

 

[gsxr]

Good to hear you are making progress.

Search the forum for details on the t-stat and coolant change. There are 2 different t-stat part numbers, your 1994 will probably use the early one (116- part number). You may want to order a new 90° hose if it looks original, plus it can get damaged during removal. If you don't drain the block , you'll get a coolant bath when the t-stat is removed, so drain both side of the block.... pre-mix 50/50 and refill the block via the upper radiator hose before filling the rest from the plastic reservoir. System capacity is 12-13 quarts, not 16+ as shown in the manual. Use Zerex G-05 antifreeze.

 

[Unavita]

That will be difficult to diagnose without live data. Are any dash lights on? Also, are the codes all gone now on pins 7, 17, and 19?

For grins, try disconnecting the MAF and test drive. If there's no change, the MAF may be ok.

How did you test the cats? Are the fuel pumps original? How old is the fuel filter? These can cause low power without misfiring.

Misfiring / backfiring likely indicates ignition problems. What brand spark plug wires, and have you measured the resistance of all 10 (don't forget the coil wires)? Spark pugs non-resistor F8DC4 gapped at 1.0mm (wider than stock)?

So you gap wider than stock? Interesting! GTK! I do that on M116/7 engines. What should the resistance be on the wires themselves? What wires do you recommend? I replaced my with Bosch within 18 months and they seem to be broken somewhere already (I fiddled with them to investigate that idle/ high rpm cut out we've been talking about and it had an effect- seemed to make it not as bad).

 

[gsxr]

Yup, Klink and Jono both day to gap wider than stock. Wires by themselves (separate from the boot/suppressor) should have zero resistance. I'd recommend the Beru wires described at this link, they are the proper lengths and the wire insulation isn't fragile like the aftermarket gray Bosch wires.

However, a wire set should not fail within 18 months... makes me think something else is amiss.