OWNER JC220

[JC220]

Now listen, JC220, don't get too greedy!

Be happy with one, and give us other guys a chance!

Yes I know – I’ll not get fuel can tunnel vision


[Quietly bidding on everything that remotely resembles a Mercedes Fuel can this side of the Mississippi]

 

[JC220]

As was discussed in this thread the MB crank seal seating tool did turn up today! Online vendors list it at £170 but a UK MB dealer quoted £21.50 including VAT & delivered from Germany..... I thought it was too good to be true. So stock up folks when it's this cheap!!

Some pics attached of the MB tool - looks like it was made very recently (09/16)

 

[JC220]

I forgot about this that arrived today also- (2nd Fuel can)





I won’t buy any more I promise!

 

[nocfn]

those bad boys are $64 usd, 110 589 07 61 00 for the M117 not so lucky, $198

GSXR can you check my M117 part number? (adjust accordingly)
http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=11589076100

 

[JC220]

those bad boys are $64 usd, 110 589 07 61 00 for the M117 not so lucky, $198

GSXR can you check my M117 part number? (adjust accordingly)
http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=11589076100

Check out this thread-


http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8842

 

[nocfn]

same price but thanks for the confirm . I'll have me a sad.

 

[JC220]

To be sure of the tool prices do also phone a MB dealer so they can check paragon 'live' for accurate prices. Online vendors still show high prices for the m119 tool

 

[JC220]

Old crank seal out-




Dave is it OK to use a little Holymar or similar to the outer edges of the new crank seal prior to pressing it into the timing cover? Or do you recommend no sealer - dry fit only?

 

[gsxr]

Dave is it OK to use a little Holymar or similar to the outer edges of the new crank seal prior to pressing it into the timing cover? Or do you recommend no sealer - dry fit only?

I've always installed them dry, but a tiny bit of Hylomar may not hurt anything for the outer edge. Don't put anything except engine oil on the inner lip that contacts the hub.

Also, I'd clean up the timing cover before installing the new seal, and put the seal in last, just prior to re-assembling everything else.

 

[nocfn]

She really was ready for replacement!

 

[JC220]

Just in from a full day working on the 500E. Got to cleaning up the front of the engine more with brake cleaner. Now that the crank damper etc was out of the way full access is available to areas which were still coated on Oil from when the cam magnets used to leak. After all was cleaned up I used the MB tool to press the new Crank Oil Seal into place. I chose the outer seal seat position of the tool. (Seal now flush with the timing cover instead of inset 1.5mm like factory)




Getting the hub back on caused me quite a headache it was VERY tight. I tried heating it several times & eventually figured out that only 125c made any difference to the tight fit. The hub would still never slide on by hand I had to rubber mallet it back on quickly before the heat was gone. (And cover the hub etc in Oil / grease) The main difficulty is actually lining up the woodruff key- what a PITA. I ended up using an engineers square to mark the exact location of the woodruff key on the crank nose.



Then with the hub malleted on I used 2 bolts to attach a lever to the hub & twisted it to align with the crank nose woodruff key marks perfectly. Then used the bolt to wind the hub on fully. The new MB bolt was a perfect match for the old one so I oiled it & the washers before tightening to 400nm. This was surprisingly easy using the big torque wrench.




So now I'm ready to fit the waterpump back on as soon as the bolts come back from Zinc Plating

 

[JC220]

It's been a while since I updated but I have got the later type Waterpump fitted in place along with the new compatible MB parts. I did take a few more parts off the engine for detailing when I'm in that far but she'll be buttoned up & running again next week

 

[JC220]

Look what Santa brought- he must be a w124 enthusiast also!




(Rear carrier bushing removal / install tool) 2x new Lemforder rear hub carrier bushes on their way so I’ll get these swapped out on my 500E.


I did get the 500E running again post Waterpump replacement. The annoying cold noise is still there though.... however the waterpump area is now silent when listening with a stethoscope so at least she needed the Waterpump regardless! I had the car running for about 45 minutes & noticed something strange. The Temp stayed pegged at 85 / 87c even without the Viscous Fan or Electric fans installed........ not sure if the later type pump could be THAT good but hey – I’m not complaining if it wants to behave itself. It must be that the new late style T Stat / Pump pushes more coolant trhough the Rad at idle than the 1992 early style pump did before.


Happy Christmas to you all! Thanks for answering my many questions this year

 

[JC220]

Here is another book one of my brothers got me. I must say it's the best w124 book I've got yet. (And I have them all)

Lots of development details that I've never seen before. I took a few quick snaps of the 034/036 pages for you guys to see. (If the moderators feel this is a copyright issue I can take the photos down)









The info is stuff we already know about the 500E I guess but I do like the 400E info also. Makes me want to take a 400E home from the USA -I am thinking of doing Route 66 later this year (From Cali heading East) so who knows- I might look for a 400E in Texas since shipping could be arranged from there.

I find the comment about them not wanting to complicate things by offering a RHD V8 w124 interesting. Previously I have read this was because of the exhaust catalysts?

 

[gerryvz]

I believe this book was already discussed on the forum. I got an electronic copy but will eventually get a hard copy too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JC220]

Well the Waterpump install is complete The car was running off & on all day today & the coolant level stayed the same & I can see no leaks so fingers crossed. Bizarrely the strange squeal noise which was there a couple of days ago appears to have vanished today...... time will tell I guess. Having all of the bolts etc re-plated really helps the appearance of the Engine!



The new Wiechers strut brace also got here today so I test fitted it. I did not cut any sheet metal at the bulkhead. All I did was bend the metal a little so as I can return it to normal should I ever wish to remove the strut brace in the future. I never do mods that cannot be easily undone- otherwise they could de-value the car!







Anyway fitment appears good I'm happy with it. But definitely not liking the Red colour so ill take it off & leave it with my bodyshop dude so he can spray it pearl black to match the car. The quality of the red paint finish is also well.... crap. So i'll have some filler primer to apply before sending it off for final paint. I think it will look the great under there when in Pearl Black. Next test will be if the adjustable silver arrow strut mounts will fit under the strut brace brackets- fingers crossed!

I did also buy a Gunson camber gauge just to check what the camber is now on my car on both front wheels. Check out the readings- this was on level ground with all tyre pressures even. It seems adjustment is required- the E60 suspension is likely to have caused the extra negative camber since this car sits lower than stock 500E's. (The Camber should be at -1 degrees) I am reluctant to get an alignment done just yet since I intend to renew pretty much all of the suspension soon so it would be a waste. For now I might use this gauge to set the camber. Then it will be taken to a MB dealer for full alignment after all new parts are fitted down the line.

 

[gerryvz]

Interesting....my Wiechers bar, which I got about 12-13 years ago, was/is aluminum color, and not painted or anodized.

Yes, best to just bend the inner firewall metal to accommodate the brace, not cut it. Bending it back is easy, and all is hidden under the rubber gasket anyway.

 

[JC220]

Interesting....my Wiechers bar, which I got about 12-13 years ago, was/is aluminum color, and not painted or anodized.

Yes, best to just bend the inner firewall metal to accommodate the brace, not cut it. Bending it back is easy, and all is hidden under the rubber gasket anyway.

Yes there is an option for an Alloy Version (Different Part Number) – I happened by this one new at a very good price so I went for it. I did intend on Painting it Pearl black anyway so in a way this one will be easier to paint since it’s already primed etc.

I do wonder if I 'should' fit a rear strut brace next year as Wiecher list one also...... the ladies will go nuts!!

 

[JC220]

My daily driver w211 has been suffering a knock from the front suspension for a while now – check out the condition of the lower ball joint – holy crap!!

2x new Lemforder Ball Joints ordered with the special w211 special press removal / installer tool. Needless to say I won’t be driving it very far until I get the new ones fitted

On the 500E front I did also get the new strut mounts installed-

 

[lowman]

My daily driver w211 has been suffering a knock from the front suspension for a while now – check out the condition of the lower ball joint – holy crap!!

2x new Lemforder Ball Joints ordered with the special w211 special press removal / installer tool. Needless to say I won’t be driving it very far until I get the new ones fitted

On the 500E front I did also get the new strut mounts installed-

View attachment 58356

lovely ball joint... to be hones..ive seen worse i actually have a video of that i think..somewhere..it was on a w220 chassis...and it was literally just before falling out of the socket.


is it your youtube channel by the way?
what car is that white "car" with m104 engine in it?

 

[JC220]

lovely ball joint... to be hones..ive seen worse i actually have a video of that i think..somewhere..it was on a w220 chassis...and it was literally just before falling out of the socket.


is it your youtube channel by the way?
what car is that white "car" with m104 engine in it?

Yeah I’m kind of afraid the ball joint might part ways. I guess after 190,000 hard miles on B roads at 90mph most of the time it did well!

Yes that’s my Channel – I don’t really put much on it I suppose just some bits about the w124’s occasionally.

The White car is a family 200 saloon we had from new in 1987. I was given it when I was 18 & promptly took it apart. I am in the middle of converting it to E36 specification – it’s got all C36 AMG running gear installed. I rewired the car for this conversion & changed the transmission to C36 Auto at the same time. All brand new MB / Lemforder suspension underneath with 500E spec brakes / stainless lines etc. And 500E leather seats door cards now which match the original blue carpets etc – I got the seats from a wrecked 500E in Belgium. I also have an AMG bodykit for it new – taken from HWA 124 moulds. It now needs prepped for paint & leave it to my painter for the final coats of arctic white paint. So this year will hopefully be it’s maiden voyage on the Road for ten years! It went into the garage as a manual trans 200. Now emerging as E36. I have posted pics here & there about it before – some attached as it sits now.

 

[gsxr]

2x new Lemforder Ball Joints ordered with the special w211 special press removal / installer tool. Needless to say I won’t be driving it very far until I get the new ones fitted

Yikes. That's about as bad as my W210 balljoint!

 

[JC220]

Yikes. That's about as bad as my W210 balljoint!

That looks pretty shot too! It is a good thing the balljoints on 210 / 211's are replaceable without having to change a whole arm. On the w211 the upper balljoint is also replaceable on its own- 3x bolts only. I was told at the last inspection that they could detect small wear / movement in the upper inner control arm bushes on my 211. But to me they feel normal. Inspection coming again soon- I'll run it with the new lower ball joints & see. I also have new rear brake discs & pads for it as they are worn badly.

 

[JC220]

Today I had a look at my 300E-24 which is locked away in a garage of its own. I've forgotten how long it's been since it was driven - actually early 2013! I have been starting it up & it's kept very clean and dry. ATF was changed early this year along with the Engine Oil.

But I suspect she is suffering el fuso corrido syndrome as it's been acting a little odd with the central locking etc. Anyway- I am going to drag it out of hibernation to catch up on maintenance (Time- not miles related! It's only done circa 400mile in ten years) 103k miles.

Coolant flush & change
Brake Fluid change
New fuses
Valet & Leather cream
Re apply fresh heat sink paste to the EZL (These are the prone to failure models)
etc

Is a plug gap of 1.0mm recommended on the 104.980 motors also? The engine was stripped & rebuild 400 miles ago but if worthwhile I might also fit new plugs again only gapped wider this time around.

 

[JC220]

Tonight I got some fresh fuel and a fully charged battery & fired up the 300E-24. Lots of stuff wasn’t working so I put another new set of flosser fuses in cleaning all of the terminals also. That got all electrical systems working again but the central locking pump is dead as a doornail. It could be the cat 1 alarm system needs re-programmed I will check further this weekend.


I have ordered some parts for this car now to revive it from it’s slumber. In the pic below you can see the black mould inside the screenwash tank for example.... oh dear But it always fires right up & runs really nicely indeed smooth & quiet.




A day’s detailing & servicing and she’ll be as good as new again. So that’s what I’m doing next. I also found that Sahara appear to have a different ref# for a 500E cover – so I have ordered that as I need another cover now for this car anyway. (I'll take the current 500's cover & swap it to this car) I have not covered this car before as I had fully repainted it - fitting a cover over fresh paint is a very bad idea but that was 3 – 4 years ago now so I’m well clear for using an internal dust cover now. This car is going in next to the 500E this weekend which will allow bodywork to begin in earnest on the E36 once it’s in it’s own garage where sanding dust and overspray won’t destroy everything around it.

 

[JC220]

I got started on a job that has been on the to-do list for a while. The Sunroof on the 500E was a little slow & clunky in operation and needed attention. It appears the sunroof was never maintained properly (Like most w124’s!) in that the sliding rails were dirty / grimy and someone had used the wrong grease before which only served to stick things further. I bet this sunroof has never been lubed correctly since 1992!

So with the Sunroof panel carefully removed & the sliding arm mechanisms out the good news is none of them are broken. It was clunky because it was running over it's own felt pads in the rails .There are also a couple of felt pads MIA & one plastic clip thing at the end broken but otherwise there is no reason why a new set of felts, 2x new plastic clips (when I’m in there) & a tub of the uber expensive but GVZ approved Gleitpaste will get things working like new again.



My 300E-24 has bigger sunroof problems I’m sure it has at least one broken arm. But I do have a whole complete 124 donor roof to scavenge parts from. Sunroof repair on a w124 is a bloody expensive task. I mean, a few tiny felt pads & a tub of paste will be in the order of £200+ from my dealer! Aw well at least I can repair it myself easily enough.

 

[JC220]

Some garage shuffling happened this weekend. It’s cool to see these 2x cars next to each other. Although they share the same genes they are quite different cars

 

[JC220]

Got a pretty massive job done tonight on the E500..... almost as big an undertaking as the Intake Tube R&R





The Power teering lid polished & waxed + a new rubber gasket since the old one was herdened. I think I have officially ran out of stuff to Zinc Plate / polish / replace now under the hood

 

[lowman]

veeeery nice job right there.

 

[JC220]

Thanks Lowman – kind of makes me want to polish the valve covers too but not quite yet! These little things make a big difference to the appearance of the car

 

[lowman]

Thanks Lowman – kind of makes me want to polish the valve covers too but not quite yet! These little things make a big difference to the appearance of the car

definetly mate do you really consider polishing the valve covers als0?you prefer that over a clean painted one in the original "silverish " color?

 

[JC220]

definetly mate do you really consider polishing the valve covers als0?you prefer that over a clean painted one in the original "silverish " color?

Im thinking about it- but still not quite ready to pull the cover again. I'll get a spare set off a member at some stage & have them acid dipped & powder coated internally to seal the magnesium or whatever these are made of. (GSXR / Klink?) Then have the outside of the covers professionally polished. The car is garaged anyway & never goes out in the rain so they should keep shiny with a semi regular Autosol buff.

 

[gsxr]

Valve covers are one item I would never polish or chrome (along with the oil pan). The reason is thermal transfer. Polished or chromed surfaces retain heat instead of radiating it. It may sound silly, but chromed or polished valve covers (or oil pan) can measurably raise oil temps. Conversely, unfinished (better yet, painted black) surfaces will radiate more heat and help cool the oil. There was an interesting article years ago in a Hot Rod or Car Craft magazine (?) which went into detail; IIRC flat black surfaces radiate the most and are best for cooling.

I think the valve covers are magnesium but I'm not certain... Klink? Jono?

 

[JC220]

The sunroof service / rebuild was completed today. In short I cleaned the mechanism thoroughly to remove all of the old & wrong grease. Oiled the moving parts on the original arms with a little bike chain lube (To get right into the joints- non evaporating) followed by gleitpaste & used a dab of superglue to fit all new MB felt pads. I used a little glue on them because the problems I am seeing is not the felt pads wearing out but rather falling off the lift arms. This way they will stay put.

Cleaned & re-installed the cable with gleitpaste and applied it to all contact points & felt pads on the sliding arms / plastic guide plates on the car. This included areas of the lift arms where the paint was wore through – indicating contact points. The 4x felt pads on the sunroof lid were also renewed. From studying the mechanism there is no way to lube the sunroof correctly without removing the arms totally. There are also other areas which benefit from Gleitpaste like under the stainless sliding rails. This is because the front 4x felt pads slide within this track all the way back.

An expensive & time consuming job for sure but I'm glad I did it. I was afraid to use the sunroof before because of its slow clunky movements & incase it got stuck open. The sunroof is now faster, silent & precise in its movements. Result!

 

[JC220]

Mmmmm.... the SRS lamp came on when I started the 500E up this evening. Then went out when I moved the steering wheel. Tried again & the lamp went out on moving the wheel.

So I bought a used steering wheel contact ring part #1404600049 off fleabay to swap it out & see if that puts it out for good.

 

[Klink]

I think the valve covers are magnesium but I'm not certain... Klink? Jono?

Don't think so. Some kind of AL alloy...

 

[gsxr]

Mmmmm.... the SRS lamp came on when I started the 500E up this evening. Then went out when I moved the steering wheel. Tried again & the lamp went out on moving the wheel.

So I bought a used steering wheel contact ring part #1404600049 off fleabay to swap it out & see if that puts it out for good.

I chased an intermittent SRS light for a while before tracing it down to the contact ring. I was able to fix mine, see pics attached. Check out your old one when you remove it.

EDIT - the error codes consistently showed the contact ring was the issue (blink code #3), but I could not see anything wrong with it until I replaced it and took apart the old one.

 

[JC220]

I chased an intermittent SRS light for a while before tracing it down to the contact ring. I was able to fix mine, see pics attached. Check out your old one when you remove it.

Thanks for the pics Dave- I'll go ahead & take the original one out for a look see

 

[Trae]

Did you check the DTCs for any codes related to the SRS?

Did they indicate that it was the contact ring?

My SRS light illuminates intermittently because of the driver's seat belt switch. The DTC said it was the seat belt switch.

I can get it to go out when I adjust the seat position/and/or mess with the seat belt.

On a different note, I have really enjoyed reading your thread. Thanks for posting!

 

[JC220]

Did you check the DTCs for any codes related to the SRS?

Did they indicate that it was the contact ring?

My SRS light illuminates intermittently because of the driver's seat belt switch. The DTC said it was the seat belt switch.

I can get it to go out when I adjust the seat position/and/or mess with the seat belt.

On a different note, I have really enjoyed reading your thread. Thanks for posting!

The SRS lamp has been flickering before so something is up. It’s only now is comes back on after startup quite consistently. But it did seem like moving the steering wheel instantly puts it out. But you are correct I should pull codes. I will put the 500E on Star tonight & screenshot any codes re-appearing after they are wiped.



Glad you like the thread so far!

 

[gsxr]

FYI - I don't believe the SDS will communicate with the SRS module, at least not on early 500E's (or any USA-spec car). A hand-held blink code reader is needed for pin #30 on the 38-pin diagnostic port.

 

[JC220]

Thanks Dave- I have a blink reader also so I'll see later & report back

 

[JC220]

Well I got the SRS Codes read. Initially it was 3 & 5 but when I cleared it only code 3 re-appeared instantly. So I think that indeed confirms the steering wheel contact ring.


I also noticed yesterday the 500E turned over on the starter slower than usual.... thought it was because I had been working on the sunroof all day & not starting it. But tonight it turned over really slow again & just about fired up. FML.


I feared the worst & began testing for the dreaded power drain re-occurrence. Thankfully after 1.5 hours of testing all is clear when the battery is hooked on it drops to 0.021 amps then after 3 seconds to 0.04 amps & stays there steady. I did the test 12 times over so it’s not the problem from before.


I think the Battery has died in the cold weather. I have swapped the heavy duty batteries over between the 500E & 300E-24. Fingers crossed the slow cranking follows with the battery. I’ll know tomorrow night.

 

[JC220]

Well, something's up with the 500E. The swapped out battery was also slow to crank this evening. Not quite flat but heading that way. The power drain readings seemed fine. But then as per usual the multimeter has stopped working again. It's the same brand from my local auto store usualy because it fails at 9pm at night & I need another. This time I have ordered a totally different brand online.

So when it turns up I'll start hunting a power drain again. Sigh......

 

[JC220]

Well following on from above I don't think there is actually a power drain now. All I did 2 nights ago after I swapped out the battery was operate all switches (sunroof, dome light, windows etc) a few times to make sure nothing was stuck on or anything after I was servicing the sunroof.

I got a new battery drop tester tonight & everything passes. It's been cranking fine since also so don't know what it was a couple days ago but it seems like it was a once off. Phew!

 

[JC220]

OK I was reading the Battery Drop Tester Instructions again & it says ‘2: Hold test button for 10 seconds – 3: with load on read meter’


In that case I think the battery actually failed! I’ve never used one of these before


When first hooked on – standing battery Voltage-




Near end of 10 second drop test with the test still running-




Standing Battery voltage just after drop test completed – turned off. (800amp battery bracket so = weak)




Car started up-




What do you guys think? Is my battery fooked?

EDIT:

Ok I ran a test on a new Bosch 680a Battery in my E36. It passed with flying colours – indeed the needle hardly dropped from 13v at the end of the test! Well within the green.

The blue battery in the 500E now is a substitute. The ‘actual’ battery out of the 500E faired much better but still just inside the yellow at the end of the test. So I popped the cell caps, verified the electrolyte levels & put it on a 'Recon' cycle on my CTEK charger.

I’ll re-test after 48 hrs. If it fails again I’ll buy a new AGM battery this time around – 900CCA or something like that.

 

[lowman]

seems your battery is not in a very good condition .
I think you are on to something....with the verification of the Electrolyte levels and recharge...and retest it..looking forward seeing the result.you could very much be lucky.
How old is the battery?=have you checked the date markings on top of the connection terminal?

 

[JC220]

seems your battery is not in a very good condition .
I think you are on to something....with the verification of the Electrolyte levels and recharge...and retest it..looking forward seeing the result.you could very much be lucky.
How old is the battery?=have you checked the date markings on top of the connection terminal?

The battery I tested above was one of my other batteries that I had swapped into the 500E just to test. (It's from my 300E-24)


This is the 500E’s actual battery it came with-



The seller of the car told me this Yuasa Battery was bought in 2016 – just before I bought the 500E from him. Yuasa don’t make it easy to read their date code / serial numbers – I can’t figure it out for sure. But going by the re-charge sticker dates it looks like a 2015 made battery. It does have a 5 Year warranty – but I don’t have the receipt so could be up sh*t creak on that issue.


However, after running a ‘Recondition’ cycle on my CTEK charger (CTEK’s are awesome chargers- I have 3!) this Yuasa battery now passes. I did the drop test 3x times in a row and each time the results were the same & within spec. (This is a 900 amp battery) So it’s going back into the 500E now tonight. I’ll test it again in one week to see if it’s still within spec – if so then this battery is fine. But I think my 300E-24’s blue battery IS bad.

Before test-


10 seconds into drop test- test still running-


Battery voltage just after drop test turned off-

 

[lowman]

no date marking on top of the battery terminals?

cooool that it passed this final test though

 

[JC220]

no date marking on top of the battery terminals?

cooool that it passed this final test though

I checked the terminals incase they had a date stamped on top but they don’t either. Yuasa don't like to make it easy!


So with spring drawing nearer I have the 500E is booked into a bodyshop for the end of February. The paint on my car is pretty darn great – that is except for the roof & bonnet. It seems these were part of a previous re-spray & It’s not as good as I’d like. Plus there is a small ding in the bonnet top so that can be repaired too. I’ll maybe get the lower claddings re- done also since they appear to be part of the same not so great respray in the past.

In the meantime I’m moving onto re-covering the B Pillar claddings with Black Alcantara since the original glue has let go. And when my Torx allen keys get here I’ll get the Airbag off & repair / replace the contact ring.

I’m also considering changing the BBS wheels;



For OZ 3 part or Futura…… but bodyshop work first! They look good but just think Futura’s look great on 500E’s. Sort like Evo’s but better IMO.