M104 ETA throttle body bad wiring

[adriani]

Hi Everyone,
I have idle issue with a W463 from 1994 with 104 engine, the idle speed is 1100 rpm.
The first check was at throttle cable it was ''melted''
After repair, fully replaced the inside cables, same problem remain.
No current at throttle on ignition or at engine idle(on ignition the throttle it should receive closing command)
I can't find any wiring diagram to measure the cables to throttle module under the dashboard.
The module inside look good, no burn signs.
See picture.

Any help I will appreciated .

 

[gerryvz]

Hello and welcome,

I think your best option is to have the ETA rebuilt, or purchase a used one with a newer date code with better wiring (1997 or newer). These can be purchased used and are a standard M104 part that was used on sedans, wagons and such from that time with the M104 engine.

The rebuilder that is best known here in the US is Victor at restoreyourmercedes.com, so you can contact him.

I am sure there are rebuilders in Europe/Germany, but I do not know who they are. Perhaps one of our European members can provide this information.

Buying a used unit with good wiring is probably the cheaper way to go; rebuilding would be more expensive. But, a rebuilt unit will probably come with a warranty, and will probably last longer as long as the wiring and non-functioning internal components are replaced.

I am not aware of any wiring diagrams for this ETA. Again, perhaps another forum member can help with this, but I've not seen any wiring for the ETA I don't in the past 25 years....

 

[adriani]

For the wiring I mean the engine wiring diagram, I have found a partial diagram but not sure if it's for this engine.
Also I have read the fault codes-16-pole diagnosis plug- with an LED lamp, on engine module pin 8 I have 8 flash:
(Idle speed control (ISC) system at upper or lower control stop or CC or EA indicates "limp
home" mode)-not shore if the table I use it's correct,
and on pin 14 for throttle module the reading is 11 flash:
Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module (HFM-SFI or Left LH-SFI)
Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI or left or right LH-SFI)
and
42 flash:
not find in table I use: Rick's OBD1 Diagnostic Code Reader Mercedes Benz 1988 - 1995/Models 124, 129

 

[jhodg5ck]

A whole lot more then just wiring fails on these now, which is likely the problem.

Those that have sorted the magic like Victor and Don are few and far between... The added hurdle of the utter lack of parts availability...it's typically a mix and match till you get a working unit.
We have BTDT and don't plan on burning that kind of time ever again!

 

[Coolhandluke]

Hello and welcome,

I think your best option is to have the ETA rebuilt, or purchase a used one with a newer date code with better wiring (1997 or newer). These can be purchased used and are a standard M104 part that was used on sedans, wagons and such from that time with the M104 engine.

The rebuilder that is best known here in the US is Victor at restoreyourmercedes.com, so you can contact him.

I am sure there are rebuilders in Europe/Germany, but I do not know who they are. Perhaps one of our European members can provide this information.

Buying a used unit with good wiring is probably the cheaper way to go; rebuilding would be more expensive. But, a rebuilt unit will probably come with a warranty, and will probably last longer as long as the wiring and non-functioning internal components are replaced.

I am not aware of any wiring diagrams for this ETA. Again, perhaps another forum member can help with this, but I've not seen any wiring for the ETA I don't in the past 25 years....

View attachment 185132

There is a Company in Germany called MKB-TEC who claim they can rebuild the throttle body and the wiring harness. You have to send your items to them. Please take a look on YouTube and their home page. I hope it helps.

 

[Coolhandluke]

Hello and welcome,

I think your best option is to have the ETA rebuilt, or purchase a used one with a newer date code with better wiring (1997 or newer). These can be purchased used and are a standard M104 part that was used on sedans, wagons and such from that time with the M104 engine.

The rebuilder that is best known here in the US is Victor at restoreyourmercedes.com, so you can contact him.

I am sure there are rebuilders in Europe/Germany, but I do not know who they are. Perhaps one of our European members can provide this information.

Buying a used unit with good wiring is probably the cheaper way to go; rebuilding would be more expensive. But, a rebuilt unit will probably come with a warranty, and will probably last longer as long as the wiring and non-functioning internal components are replaced.

I am not aware of any wiring diagrams for this ETA. Again, perhaps another forum member can help with this, but I've not seen any wiring for the ETA I don't in the past 25 years....

View attachment 185132

 

[Coolhandluke]

Another Company I have purchased parts from is Kurth Classics Autoparts in Germany. They also repair the Throttle bodies and new wiring harnesses.

 

[kubasz]

These TLL/R throttle bodies suffer the most from the clutch coil failure. To confirm thats your issue its best to measure coil resistance at pins 12 and 13. You should look out for 4.5Ohm. If you get none, thats pretty problematic as the coil is hidden deep inside the housing under the welded up sprocket which is a bitch to remove. Next its necessary to realign everything and weld up after replacement or repair of the coil. Coil is made of 0.035mm wire winded up 420 times over the coil housing. Its pretty hard to wind up so its easier to repair the original one.

I used to work for MKB-TEC since its establishment up to 2022 when i decided to quit as the guy who was a basketball player and could not see a difference betweek m119 and m120 wiring harness and was making more money off of my work than me.

 

[mutleybird]

These TLL/R throttle bodies suffer the most from the clutch coil failure.

I used to work for MKB-TEC

the guy who was a basketball player and could not see a difference betweek m119 and m120 wiring harness and was making more money off of my work than me.

Hi kubasz,

I read some of your posts, and I have a W140 1993 300SE, USA version. I'm waiting to get a smoke test for vacuum leaks before I do anything more expensive, as after replacing the wiring harness with a much newer Delphi unit this year just after buying the car, it idles when first started at about 1800rpm, then reduces to 1500, then after about 5 minutes it drops to about 900-1000rpm. After driving it and putting it into Park, it will fluctuate idle between 900 & 1500. (With a tiny bit of gas and cat sulfur smell)

It goes back to smooth, but high, after a restart.

Resistance between pins 10 & 11 on the NON-ASR throttle body pancake plug reads either 1.34 or .134, depending whether I have the meter on 2k or 20k Ohm setting. So its not 4.5 Ohms. With the key on, while checking blink codes for the various modules, and clearing them - I heard the distinctive low-volume whine, with occasional clicking, probably of the throttle plate. That plug was tough to get off, with not a single post anywhere illustrating in photos the best way to do it. But it was even tougher to turn the top half of the pancake clockwise to pull the plug in and lock it in place. As if some lubricant somewhere in the locking mechanism would have been a good idea. Hopefully no pins got loosened from the stress. I haven't re-started the car since plugging it back in.

Being a 1993, and throttle body dated in 1992, the wires are not crackly, and are not the biodegradable wiring.

The original MAF was really making it fluctuate idle a lot more, and unplugging the maf smoothed it out to the current situation - so it ran better after the cleaned original MAF was disconnected, and plugging in the new non-Bosch MAF doesn't make the current idle situation worse.

MAF codes on pin 4, and also on the diagnostic module have been cleared, but I still haven't restarted the car to build up new or returning codes.

Any ideas? Or the throttle body sounds guaranteed to be dead?

Thanks!

- Larry

 

[Stevester 500E]

Not sure which lubrication paste is used inside the ETA's, but if itt'spart number 001-989-46-51, the paste some members feel is the holy grail...you might change your mind.
If you have ever cracked open an ETA, you might have seen some dried up goop.

I suggest, drive your MB's. Perhaps letting them sit too long without driving them might contribute a little to the paste drying out. I imagine the hot sun might contribute as well.

Ever crack open a windshield wiper assembly? Did you find dried up goop on the plastic gear?

 

[Falkon]

Hi Everyone,
I have idle issue with a W463 from 1994 with 104 engine, the idle speed is 1100 rpm.
The first check was at throttle cable it was ''melted''
After repair, fully replaced the inside cables, same problem remain.
No current at throttle on ignition or at engine idle(on ignition the throttle it should receive closing command)
I can't find any wiring diagram to measure the cables to throttle module under the dashboard.
The module inside look good, no burn signs.
See picture.

Any help I will appreciated .

Hi Adriani,

Just a quick question please. Could you provide any information on the ECU version/ Part Number that your 1994 G320 has, please?

Reason I ask is that my 1996 G320 came with the ECU VDO #019 545 06 32 [08] and does not have this extra T/LLR Module for the ETA. It is my understanding (and as has been explained by Gerryvz and GSXR in a different post) that the functions of this Module are integrated into the 019.... ECU.

My ETA look a bit different from the one you showed though, mine does not have the long Pigtail harness Connector, its connector is directly located on the ETA itself.

 

[Falkon]

Hello and welcome,

I think your best option is to have the ETA rebuilt, or purchase a used one with a newer date code with better wiring (1997 or newer). These can be purchased used and are a standard M104 part that was used on sedans, wagons and such from that time with the M104 engine.

The rebuilder that is best known here in the US is Victor at restoreyourmercedes.com, so you can contact him.

I am sure there are rebuilders in Europe/Germany, but I do not know who they are. Perhaps one of our European members can provide this information.

Buying a used unit with good wiring is probably the cheaper way to go; rebuilding would be more expensive. But, a rebuilt unit will probably come with a warranty, and will probably last longer as long as the wiring and non-functioning internal components are replaced.

I am not aware of any wiring diagrams for this ETA. Again, perhaps another forum member can help with this, but I've not seen any wiring for the ETA I don't in the past 25 years....

View attachment 185132

Hello Gerry,

I recall we had a discussion in a different post where it was explained that the G320 didn't come with a separate T/LLR for its ETA, however, this 1994 model by Adriani appears to have it. I am curious to see what ECU version it came with and to understand if its Engine wiring Harness would be different as well.

I remember that your 1995 Model possibly has a similar ETA as shown here, with the long Pigtail Connector, but yet does not have a separate Module for it.

I am just trying to learn, so please do not be angered by my persistent curiosity.